M1842

Members
  • Content Count

    17
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

14 Good

About M1842

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 04/03/1957

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I got my spare pump with the vacuum pumps, should I be able to pull the pumps out by hand? They seem quite tight though I could turn one with a light strokes from a brass hammer. Should I put in some Kroil to make them turn easier? I got the vacuum side opem and it is full of white powdery corrosion while the fuel pump side looks like new. Mark
  2. Thanks, Old-Tank! I'll add the motor rebuild to the punch list. I bought an used fuel pump off eBay last night so I will have the vacuum lines I need. Mark
  3. I hooked up the wiper motor to the manifold port and the wipers move halfway up the windshield and stop, this happens every time I turn the wipers on. This is at idle. I haven't tried at speed. Not enough vacuum? Defective wiper motor? Mechanical issue with the wiper mechanism?
  4. I was going to try reconnecting my vacuum pump to the manifold and wiper motor to see if I could get the wipers functioning again (they have not functioned as long as I have owned the car. I anticipated either a quick triumph or disappointment. But feeling around the vacuum pump I discovered that the metal pipes that provide inlet/outlet access to the pump are missing entirely. Are these something that can be fabricated like brake lines, do I need any special fittings to fit the pipes to the pump? Would it be better to buy another pump with pipes and transfer them to my pump? It looks like rebuilt pumps do not come with these pipes though NOS units have them. I expect to have to rebuild the pump anyway once I get it off the car. Mark
  5. I think someone did a home restoration 25-30 years ago and then it sat somewhere in a garage or barn for many years. I removed about 10 pounds of mouse poop and mummified mouse remains from between the headliner and the jute pad on the roof as well as inside the defroster housing. Much of the pot metal is pitted and the glass is delaminating and cloudy. Was also originally a blue and white car that someone repainted red and white. It looks really good from 10-15 feet away
  6. I haven't posted much since I bought my car but want to say that there is so much knowledge on this board that it is mind boggling. When I have a question I can usually do a search and find one or more threads dealing with the exact problem and how to fix it. I bought my 55 two years ago and started on bringing it back to life. The seller had said the car had a hard time going up hills and leaked some transmission fluid and he thought the Dynaflow needed a rebuild. Well one fuel filter and 3 quarts of ATF later the car was running much better. Replaced the distributor vacuum advance and the engine improved even more. The tranny, well it leaks like crazy from the torque ball after not being driven for awhile, but I am feeling confident about replacing that soon. I do have a problem with Low not working at all. And Park stopped working suddenly so I think the thrust pad is bad. I started on the electrical system as none of the lights or accessories worked. It has been a combination of worn out switches, broken wires, bad bulbs, bad fuses, and bad grounds. I have the common problem with the horns not working, that will be a big job. I am sure the radio needs to be re-capped but for now it sits in the dash board connected to nothing, I think a previous owner installed a more modern radio at some point. Working on replacing the miles of heater hose, vacuum hose, and ventilation hose. And discovered the heater core leaks. Defrost motor works after replacing the ballast. Heater motor still dead, I have not started to check voltages and grounds on that yet. Tires were dry rotted and different treads and sizes, so replaced all 5 with the same bias ply and it rides better and steers easier than with the undersize radials. Steering seems precise and the car does not wander on the road. Rubber is pretty much petrified everywhere. So I have a lot of projects both small and large. But having a community like this helps a lot!
  7. Thanks for the feedback, guys, I'll let you know how it goes. Mark
  8. I would like to have some of SFE glass fuses in the 2A size should I need to replace the one for the clock but I can't find them anywhere. Are they available anywhere, the smallest I can find are 3A, would they be OK? Or could I take the fuse out and bridge the contacts and add a 2A AGC fuse in line for the clock? Mark
  9. I figured out the best technique to close my hood. I close the hood to engage the first latch then I open the second latch and press down on the hood so that the pin goes into it's opening. Then I release the latch for the pin and slowly let the hood back up. Then the pin will click into place and the hood stays down. If I press down with the latch closed, it won't engage the pin. Glad I got that figured out
  10. Thanks for all the information. I also found information both on this forum and other places using the term "choke tube."
  11. I would like to re-activate the automatic choke in my Special, someone decided to install a manual choke a number of years ago. The Buick Shop Manual mentions a heat pipe that connects to the automatic choke housing and the exhaust manifold in order to funnel warm exhaust gas into the housing. I can find no trace of a heat pipe and can't find any pictures of one on the carb. Can anyone show what this heat pipe looks like? I assume it attaches to the threaded port on the choke. Thanks! Mark
  12. I see that Cadillac used a coil with an integrated ballast resistor in 1955, could this be used on my 55 Buick? They are being reproduced now and run $49. Mark
  13. I will get some pictures and post so you can see. Mark
  14. So I what does the ignition ballast resistor look like? Is it a ceramic unit like the blower or is it a resistor wire? Thanks, Mark
  15. Hello to all the Forum members! I have recently gotten back into the car hobby with a 1955 Buick Special 2 door hardtop. My previous car was a 1951 Chevy Fleetline sedan. I bought the Buick last year and didn't get much done on it till recently. Problems when I got it: no lights, no fans, bad smell, hesitation under load, and massive transmission fluid leak. I've addressed the lights with a new headlight switch, rebuilt the license plate lights, ID'ed broken wires at the brake light switch, sprayed contact cleaner on the dome light switch (but still does not work off of new door switchesI installed). I put in a new ballast resistor this weekend which made a huge improvement in starting the engine. Yesterday, I tested the vacuum advance on the distributor and found it would not hold pressure so I ordered a rebuilt unit. The bad smell was about 10 pounds of mouse nesting material, mouse crap, and mummified mice between the headliner and roof. This week while waiting for parts, I am going to install a new fuel filter and 4" hose on the defroster heater. Interestingly, after I replaced the ballast resistor the fans for the defroster and heater came back alive. I can't seem to get the hood to fully shut, there doesn't seem to be edge for the latch to lock into, is it possible that the pin could be completely worn out? I have been lurking reading posts that are related to my problems and there is a lot of knowledge and helpful people here. Thanks, Mark