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About M1842

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  • Birthday 04/03/1957

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  1. I was using a standard 12 pt socket. I was thinking a 6 pt might work better. I do have an adjustable wrench or two around.
  2. Grumble grumble. I installed the new wheel cylinder and went to top off the master cylinder and the filler plug won't move. I had it off last year to check the fluid level and reinstalled. My socket just wants to round off the square plug. Is it worth while to get some pipe plug sockets to improve my purchase on the head of the cap?? Thanks, Mark
  3. Thanks, Old Tank! I will post my experience. I wonder if it is due to the master cylinder being essentially at the same level as the wheel cylinders?
  4. I had a thought, which is sometimes dangerous. If I am using a vacuum pump to bleed my wheel cylinders do I have to have the shoes and drums mounted? Seems like it would be more convenient to bleed before everything else is in place. Since the brake pedal won't be used in the bleeding process, there shouldn't be any pressure against the wheel cylinder pistons to force them out of the cylinder. Am I missing anything in my thinking here? Mark
  5. Should be spring loaded pin on the flat metal side of the switch, push the pin in and hold while pulling on the knob and pull it completely off. Then there is a large nut holding the switch to the dash (now revealed by the knob being out of the way. Use a really wide screw driver or other tool to turn it out. Once removed, the only thing holding the switch in are the wires. I would check the wires where they are screwed into the junction strip for corrosion on the connectors as well as the connectors on the switch while I was in there. Mark
  6. I finally pulled a brake drum off the right rear to get an idea what was going on with the brakes. The brakes really weren't doing much even if I stood on the brake pedal. Pulled the wheel and felt a drag when I spun the drum by hand. Went to the adjustment hole and the adjuster was fully expanded. So moved that in so I could pull the drum. The inside of the drum was shiny but also deeply, deeply scored. The brake shoes were almost new except for massive deep scoring in the linings. Seems like someone was trying to improve braking by adjust the brakes to drag on the drum. I haven't pulled the wheel cylinder yet but suspect it is seized. So I ordered new rear drums and shoes, new hardware, and new wheel cylinder. After the rears are working right, I'll move on to the fronts. One question, the spring on the parking brake strut is in crappy condition but I can't seem to find a new one on the usual sites and it isn't shown as being part of the kit from Bob's. Chevy strut springs seem to be everywhere are they the same? Mark
  7. You need to insert the posts into the slots in the base of the dome light and then bend them, as I recall they get a 90 degree twist.
  8. I got my spare pump with the vacuum pumps, should I be able to pull the pumps out by hand? They seem quite tight though I could turn one with a light strokes from a brass hammer. Should I put in some Kroil to make them turn easier? I got the vacuum side opem and it is full of white powdery corrosion while the fuel pump side looks like new. Mark
  9. Thanks, Old-Tank! I'll add the motor rebuild to the punch list. I bought an used fuel pump off eBay last night so I will have the vacuum lines I need. Mark
  10. I hooked up the wiper motor to the manifold port and the wipers move halfway up the windshield and stop, this happens every time I turn the wipers on. This is at idle. I haven't tried at speed. Not enough vacuum? Defective wiper motor? Mechanical issue with the wiper mechanism?
  11. I was going to try reconnecting my vacuum pump to the manifold and wiper motor to see if I could get the wipers functioning again (they have not functioned as long as I have owned the car. I anticipated either a quick triumph or disappointment. But feeling around the vacuum pump I discovered that the metal pipes that provide inlet/outlet access to the pump are missing entirely. Are these something that can be fabricated like brake lines, do I need any special fittings to fit the pipes to the pump? Would it be better to buy another pump with pipes and transfer them to my pump? It looks like rebuilt pumps do not come with these pipes though NOS units have them. I expect to have to rebuild the pump anyway once I get it off the car. Mark
  12. I think someone did a home restoration 25-30 years ago and then it sat somewhere in a garage or barn for many years. I removed about 10 pounds of mouse poop and mummified mouse remains from between the headliner and the jute pad on the roof as well as inside the defroster housing. Much of the pot metal is pitted and the glass is delaminating and cloudy. Was also originally a blue and white car that someone repainted red and white. It looks really good from 10-15 feet away
  13. I haven't posted much since I bought my car but want to say that there is so much knowledge on this board that it is mind boggling. When I have a question I can usually do a search and find one or more threads dealing with the exact problem and how to fix it. I bought my 55 two years ago and started on bringing it back to life. The seller had said the car had a hard time going up hills and leaked some transmission fluid and he thought the Dynaflow needed a rebuild. Well one fuel filter and 3 quarts of ATF later the car was running much better. Replaced the distributor vacuum advance and the engine improved even more. The tranny, well it leaks like crazy from the torque ball after not being driven for awhile, but I am feeling confident about replacing that soon. I do have a problem with Low not working at all. And Park stopped working suddenly so I think the thrust pad is bad. I started on the electrical system as none of the lights or accessories worked. It has been a combination of worn out switches, broken wires, bad bulbs, bad fuses, and bad grounds. I have the common problem with the horns not working, that will be a big job. I am sure the radio needs to be re-capped but for now it sits in the dash board connected to nothing, I think a previous owner installed a more modern radio at some point. Working on replacing the miles of heater hose, vacuum hose, and ventilation hose. And discovered the heater core leaks. Defrost motor works after replacing the ballast. Heater motor still dead, I have not started to check voltages and grounds on that yet. Tires were dry rotted and different treads and sizes, so replaced all 5 with the same bias ply and it rides better and steers easier than with the undersize radials. Steering seems precise and the car does not wander on the road. Rubber is pretty much petrified everywhere. So I have a lot of projects both small and large. But having a community like this helps a lot!
  14. Thanks for the feedback, guys, I'll let you know how it goes. Mark