M1842

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Everything posted by M1842

  1. I did the lines on my 51 Chevy using the straight lines at the auto store, I bought a bending tool and flaring tool. I practiced making the double flares and then went to town bending and cutting one tube at a time. Was super easy and I did it with the car on jack stands. Just remember to put the fittings on BEFORE you flare don't ask me how I know this. Mark PS I bought lines longer than I needed and cut them to size once the bending was done. I think with the shorter lines that I got two out of the longest length. So a tubing cutter was also used.
  2. I found this picture that my grandfather took in around 1935-6-7 at what might have been a CCC camp in western Nebraska, Grampa was a camp physician for the CCC. I am basing the date on the general styles of the cars but if someone(s) would like to have a go at the cars in the foreground, I'd be delighted to hear what they are to get a "no earlier than" date. Unfortunately, Grampa passed in 1973 and I didn't find the negative until 2016 when my father passed. Mark
  3. Thanks for all your comments and suggestions, I will start implementing them as soon as I can. Mark
  4. I decided to open up the diff to have a look at the gears and replace the seal as the diff is leaking oil. So I loosened the bolts around the perimeter of the cover and then took out the bottom bolt and oil started flowing out of the hole. Luckily I already had my catch basin ready and caught it. The oil coming out was black with some red floating on the top, I almost filled my 7 qt basin. I am assuming this means the seal between the torque tube and the differential is leaking. I already knew the torque ball seal is bad. Anything else I should look for in the drive train behind the transmission? thanks, Mark
  5. I don't have an interchange book and want to make sure these will work before I plunk down good money. Thanks. Mark
  6. I have been redirected to doing inside tasks by SWMBO so have not been able to follow through on all the helpful suggestions on the bleed process. I did buy a new master cylinder that is still sitting in its box. It's tempting to go ahead and replace the brake lines as they appear to be original or if replaced it was done several decades ago. Merry Christmas! Mark
  7. These images can be digitized quite easily with a flat bed scanner and the right film holder. It would be like scanning a strip of negatives except these are positives and you wouldn't have to reverse the colors like you would for a negative. Mark
  8. This is a photo my grandfather took at a CCC camp in Western Nebraska in the mid to late 30's. There was some kind of tree planting ceremony that he also photographed. The camp planted thousands of trees in what is now a state forest. Grampa was the camp doctor.
  9. Its a Wonderful Life with Jimmy Stewart has a lot of 20s, 30s, and 40s vintage cars/trucks throughout.
  10. Had to look around, found this one of the family packing up the old 1960 Olds 98 for the trip home from San Antonio. Think I am in the car :). Mark
  11. Looked at Bullitt and besides Steve McQueen's Mustang there are lots of 40s - 60s cars shown on the streets of San Francisco.
  12. yes, just checked the valve, no problem there.
  13. OK, I taped the threads on the bleeder valve and it certainly tightened up the vacuum. I can build up 8 PSI but nothing comes out the hose, the hose "pops" when I disconnect it. I think I will go ahead and disconnect the pipe and pressure test that. Is it possible the bleeder valve is made incorrectly? I try and test that too. Mark
  14. Going to look for my PTFE tape, it's on the work bench..... somewhere.
  15. I ended up tapping the strut in with a rubber hammer. Seems like there are a dozen ways (that look the same) to put the brakes together but only one where everything works!
  16. Tank, I have not yet rebuilt/replaced the master cylinder. It seemed to be working without any leaking. though I am rethinking my decision to not mess with it. On my 51 Chevy, I replaced everything except the brake pedal and the MightyVac started pulling fluid through the system to the wheel cylinders right away. I was somewhat concerned when I disconnected the brake line there was no trace of fluid at the connection or in the cylinder. Mark
  17. I thought I was finally in the clear till I hooked up my vacuum pump to the bleeder valve and started pumping. First I tried building up vacuum and then opening the bleeder valve. Then I tried opening the valve and pumping for quite awhile. Neither method produced any brake fluid in the collection jar. I am starting to think I have a internal blockage in the right rear brake line. I have done this before on a 51 Chevy and not had this problem. I bought a set of 4 wheel cylinders off eBay a year ago and I am starting to think that was a mistake. The RR cylinder has a 10mm bleeder valve and the LR has a 3/8' bleeder. I am also having problems reinstalling the parking brake strut, it is like there is not enough space between the bottom of the wheel cylinder and the axle. The cylinders are made in China.
  18. I got my set of 8pt sockets today and with an 18" breaker bar, the filler plug started unscrewing. I couldn't get a good angle on the square head to use adjustable wrenches. The 8 pt 3/4" socket did the job! Thanks for the tip. Mark
  19. Didn't know about the 4/8 point sockets, Good to know!
  20. I was using a standard 12 pt socket. I was thinking a 6 pt might work better. I do have an adjustable wrench or two around.
  21. Grumble grumble. I installed the new wheel cylinder and went to top off the master cylinder and the filler plug won't move. I had it off last year to check the fluid level and reinstalled. My socket just wants to round off the square plug. Is it worth while to get some pipe plug sockets to improve my purchase on the head of the cap?? Thanks, Mark
  22. Thanks, Old Tank! I will post my experience. I wonder if it is due to the master cylinder being essentially at the same level as the wheel cylinders?
  23. I had a thought, which is sometimes dangerous. If I am using a vacuum pump to bleed my wheel cylinders do I have to have the shoes and drums mounted? Seems like it would be more convenient to bleed before everything else is in place. Since the brake pedal won't be used in the bleeding process, there shouldn't be any pressure against the wheel cylinder pistons to force them out of the cylinder. Am I missing anything in my thinking here? Mark
  24. Should be spring loaded pin on the flat metal side of the switch, push the pin in and hold while pulling on the knob and pull it completely off. Then there is a large nut holding the switch to the dash (now revealed by the knob being out of the way. Use a really wide screw driver or other tool to turn it out. Once removed, the only thing holding the switch in are the wires. I would check the wires where they are screwed into the junction strip for corrosion on the connectors as well as the connectors on the switch while I was in there. Mark