Jump to content

F&J

Members
  • Content Count

    2,537
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

660 Excellent

1 Follower

About F&J

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 12/31/1951

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Even though it looks like a blind man made those bizarre cuts.... they left a very important piece to make your job easier. They left the top part that allows the dashboard to be recessed forward. Being it is not a stock resto, and if you cannot find the correct dash to weld in completely; many early dashboards share that recess design. You could marry a trimmed non-Plymouth dash to what is still there. Most dashes will have a slight width difference as well a slight difference in the curve of the lowest edge of the dash, but I've done this type of swap before and it's not diff
  2. Nothing... it's a tag team spammer, same person in the first two posts using the odd term of sticking a panel, and both not using a space between first/last name.
  3. Well, I was thinking I'd better go look closer at the urethane PPG reducers I have been using.... as I get things wrong lately. I was totally wrong in my last post, as these PPG AU reducers are listed as High Temperature, I think 685 is the number. So yes, you are correct about temp differences in reducers of both AU and AE paints.
  4. Me neither until I ordered the quart of single stage urethane gloss black from them on ebay, shown at the far right in the last pic. As soon as I took it out of the box I heard that watery slosh sound. Then I looked at their ebay description: It says something like 2 to one, or 4 to whatever....If I was a daily painter, I would have known with only two numbers as "a mix", they mean that's for the hardener/activator. . In other words if it said a "three number mix" like 4-2-1 or similar, then that's proof that you have pure paint, as you are adding reducer and activator into what
  5. All these pics are taken today: Almost a month since last post...because it's been just sandblasting(I hate blasting) the hood parts, rad shell, hood doors, and lots of work on the main body not worth posting about. Then straightening, and welding a few cracks on these parts including heat shrinking on the right hood top where it must have been folded over lengthwise; I think when it was a junked car, stripped/shot up with BBs, etc, somebody may have forced the entire right half of the hood all the way over towards the left fender and then jumped on it? You can see lengthwise
  6. I've been in the hobby 50+ years, I just had to say that those are the best wooden wheel/caps/stripes/tire combination that I have ever seen on any brand of car.
  7. be aware that if it has a very poor connection on either main battery cable, it can sometimes show 12v at meter because there is no load at all. Then with that type of iffy bad connection, as soon as you put any kind of load on it, then the connection fails completely again . If you suspect that, then keep the meter on the main starter solenoid terminal while then putting a heavy load on it, like headlights or starter.
  8. I agree, you technically have already saved it, in a way. Me neither, I always do my own resto work. My 32 Nash 2dr Conv had none of the original wood left. The last owner bought the car to resell quickly, so he found modern oak furniture for boards to try to get the body assembled to look like a car. Nothing fit, no room in the door for the windows, doors overlapped and body panels all bent out of shape. There was no way to get patterns for this unique body style. I went with some new and mostly reused metal square and rectangular tubing instead, as I've done th
  9. Explain how you ran the starter; if you used a jumper wire from the main battery connection on the starter solenoid to the small S terminal on the solenoid and it did spin the engine, then your battery cables and connections to those cables are OK. So if that's what you did, then it has to be a problem with the main power feed going to the actual harness that feeds the entire underdash systems. That feed path could be traced if you find a wire diagram, but most likely it is a heavy wire around 10 gauge coming from the main battery terminal on the starter solenoid, o
  10. T chassis and agree it is for a speedster or hotrod build. The front split bones are set up as the 35-48 Ford "spring ahead" suspension, and the forward pieces of the bones look like late 30s to late 40s. I can't see enough of the front axle to tell what year Ford it came from, but it's not T. The rear split bones won't survive, as it will crack the brackets on the rear axle tubes or crack where the bone is welded to the rear axle tube brackets. Split bones can and do survive on a I-beam front axle because the beam will twist easily as one wheel goes up.
  11. It reminds me of a mid 70s Ford Granada, Mercury made their version too, bit can't recall the name.
  12. Hi, I found this older thread by reading your Pontiac restoration. Lots of things to read in both project threads. When I was a teen in the 60s, I bought a 35 Buick black sedan from a farm field for $5 and the farmer hauled it to my parents home 2 towns away for $10 more. It was too far gone, but we did get it to run and took a joyride in it one day with no brakes and no muffler. I do recall it had a lot of hill pulling power. So, I've always looked at similar year Buick restoring threads. Yours is an amazing find, being it's the 90, and sidemounts and the town car body. 33 w
  13. Yes, ... 7" measured in center, 34 LaS: Wiper travel in degrees of sweep is very limited with a conventional wiper arm and blade. 34-only LaS conv used an articulated arm/blade that changes the angle of the blade in relation to the arm, as it goes from side to side. Poor pic of mine, but maybe it makes sense if I try to explain. The round wire rod rides in a tube shaped thing on one end of the wiper blade, like a trombone slide. That is what changes the angle of the blade as it sweeps the glass. This setup keeps the heel of the wiper blade from hitting the W
  14. That should be a very helpful sales feature for finding a new owner who wants an early car that can keep up with traffic without revving the engine.
  15. AJ just posted the AACA link on the car. The first post gives the known history of how it went through several owners since being sold at that Carlisle Swap in the 80s. Most of those decades saw the car deteriorating instead of being ''saved'. Here is the only pic I can find from when I found it in 2008, and when I showed this pic to the guy who brought it back from Carlisle, he was shocked at how badly the car had rusted up since he sold it to a guy who put it in a wet garage for 20 more years. That is the fate of countless cars of this era, and the St Regis in this
×
×
  • Create New...