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About F&J

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  • Birthday 12/31/1951

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  1. I disagree with it being way overpriced. Just because a person won't go look at it in person, (and then may be allowed to check out the motor condition), is a lame excuse to think it can be bought for fire sale prices or 4dr common make sedan money. It is a very rare, upscale open car from the good years of 32-33, and well cared for, for many decades...and basically original untampered with. Snooze, you lose, is the old saying. Very few people who respond to early cars ever really are ready to buy. I used to flip for decades, and that was my experience. (or it was
  2. Is the diameter 16"? I think it says 8.50 x 16. If 16, that wheel must be for drag racing. The dark coloring, it might be a true magnesium wheel, and would be worth getting a better appraisal on Hamb. The 2 rim edge chips affect value, but I'd still want to know if they are 16" magnesium before selling them.
  3. I'm not the only one who wants to see more of this radial boat motor and the early motorhome. I don't know anything about very early radials in the thought that the distributor might be from an early aircraft. I have no clue if WW1 era planes had a 5 cyl. and then the builder used one? If you were just trying to start it for now, could you use a tiny Dremel pointed bit to carve out the carbon cracks and fill them with JB weld? (if the cap is stable and not falling apart). I suppose a new cap could be made on a lathe if you could find a big enough piece of B
  4. F&J

    Mounting tires

    The bag is used to make the tire beads slip over restored rim edges very easily without ruining the paint. The wheel is placed in the bag. This is on non-lockring wheels, and really also helps immensely when doing the ancient clincher tires/rims that seem like trying to put a square peg in a round hole. Anyways, after the tire is on, you then pull the bag out in pieces before inflating. I hope to never own a clincher type car ever again, even after learning about the bag technique years after I did mine. A member here did a youtube video on it for a Metz car with clinchers. I th
  5. yes, I do, but they are not assembled yet. I bought as many loose bumper parts that I could find, and now have 4 decent blades, extra bent ones, and spare bullets, etc. I also bought some bumper parts by mistake for 34 Cad because I did not know they were different then. If I ever get back to that last project car here, I will be able to see what I need to save, and then sell the rest. It's all piled in random boxes and nothing is inventoried. One last thing I found on ebay 3 years ago was a pair of the optional folding rear luggage rack brackets that clamp to the bumper tubes. T
  6. My ID book does not say where the ID tag is for some odd reason, but there is a Graham expert on here daily that must know a lot about your car. Do you know the year? post that too, or a picture or two and the other members will tell you what year.
  7. That would be a splash oiling system for the rod bearings, and the pistons and wrist pins. So when you ran the oil pump, the rods, etc, would not be pre-oiled. After only sitting dormant for one year, the rod babbit should not have gone bad during the start-up, unless the motor was revved way too high at first when the rods were somewhat dry. I suppose that if the old babbit was worn beyond specs when parked a year ago, and then you ran it too fast at start up, then it could be a rod knock now. I'd have an experienced old car guy listen to it first, or you could drop
  8. yes, that is an issue Here in CT, what the DMV states that they don't have, and what they actually DO have, are 2 different things: I had a cheap Jon Boat registered in my name here in CT in the 70s. My Dad used it last in the 70s and I never renewed the registration since, nor did I still have an old registration. My Son wanted to register it a few years ago. We filled out forms for a "Father-Son transfer of ownership" and all we could provide to DMV, was the old CT hull numbers on the bow. Low and behold, DMV pulled up my last 70s-80s old registration somehow, a
  9. That is the best way IMO. Less confusing. I have a basket case 34 LaS and no idea if I have the stock armored cable switch. I had a 35 parts car with one but sold that 35 and never kept the switch, maybe I saw it was different than 34, as the 35 dash is way different. I also have a 32 Nash, so I know what you mean about the ign switch is way different than the 34 Cad/LaS
  10. I've read this thread several times in the last months. The thread is all over the place as some have said. Just some thoughts I had: Talk of this conversion starting with "a touring that had rear damage".... It seems odd that nobody has suggested that the touring was first turned into a very common farm cutdown when it was just an unwanted obsolete car. Then like other such cars here in the USA, when the prewar antique car hobby frenzy finally evolved, some person then made it into what it is today. If you have been scrounging the farm fence rows and wo
  11. I live on both sides of the fence. I like original, as well as one that is modified enough within reason to be able to survive in modern day secondary traffic speeds. These early prewar cars have fallen as far as desirability for the reasons like your problem of engine work costs, lack of parts in general, rotted wood, as well as not being able to feel safe in todays world of texting idiot drivers. Therefore you might get lucky to find a previously rebuilt or good used engine left over from a street rod build. This would be my first choice, spending some time to find o
  12. Finally forced myself yesterday afternoon, to go to the shop to try to either finish the clutch rivets, or maybe machine the flywheel instead. I'm just tired and can't snap out of it. The grey skies and cold temps keep me sitting at the woodstove instead, wasting my life it seems. BUT, I somehow got on a roll and finished the riveting in a very short time, even with trying to remember where I put the correct rivets 😕 . Then went in for a coffee, as the brake drum lathe is in the cluttered unheated storage area. Went right back out to dig my way to the machine, brin
  13. Yes, Texas trucks often have beefed up rear bumpers. When you look at newer trucks in Texas from the 60s through late 80s, when rear bumpers were still a factory option, New truck dealers often put on what is called "Texas Bumpers" which often had the dealers name boldly stamped in as adverting. The 60s ones wrapped around forward and were bolted to the rear fenders or rear quarters on Fleetsides. The 70s/80s ones are not straight across on the lower edge, they taper upwards to each side of the bumper, and these are somewhat in demand as used bumpers for resale. "regional histo
  14. It can't be a cut sedan because the sedan cowl flares out a lot at the A pillar and extends outwards over the side splash apron. The sad thing is that even if it has the missing folding top in the garage somewhere, there are so few people left that would be shopping for a smaller series mid 20s touring. I could be wrong, but maybe 6k max is what it might bring on a very good day, and it may take some time to find a real buyer. Nobody wants to hear it, including myself, but when the flippers don't dare buy cars of this type for a quick resale, the retail prices drop
  15. It's the porosity of the die cast material, something is leaching up through the clear paint. That porosity sometimes causes similar issues if it was chrome plated and not prepared correctly. I've never had luck in clear over buffed trim, so I stopped doing it years ago. I don't think I cleared mine after buffing, I should look at it to see how it looks after 4 years. I'd bet mine just got dull, and did not notice. 50 years ago the H.S. shop metal shop teacher said aluminum hazes over and that thin haze prevents more damage. Die cast/ aka potmetal is zinc based but h
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