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About F&J

  • Birthday 12/31/1951

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  1. I'd put new clear ones back on, to closely look if there are any bubbles as soon as it starts up (to know for sure if it has any combustion leaks). I would first remove thermostat and restrictors so you can have time to watch in those clear pipes as soon as it starts from room temps. (I know you used some chemical that is supposed to show exhaust, but why assume anything at this point of severe frustration). I went back 2 pages. Your first test start; the motor sounds very labored, perhaps timing way,way too retarded. When fighting a nightmare like this, I'd set timing by ear alone, forget timing marks and vacuum gauge timing for now. It's fairly obvious on a typical engine to know when the timing is close enough, as far as idle quality and being able to increase rpm's easily and very smoothly. I recall something earlier about this engine not spinning fast enough with the starter (and also now talking about failing oil pressure).. one more "free thing" to test: Get motor to 180 temp, then shut it off; remove all plugs and turn motor by hand to prove to yourself that it is not too tight. (such as if the bearings are seizing up, which would cause laboring and heating) One more thing biting at your tail at one point is that the engine needs half choke even when warmed up. That might, or might not be a severely leaned-out carb issue, so I'd not assume anything right now in this cluster-f. Needing half choke could be many things and you need to get it to run perfect at all rpm's without choke, and be able to idle perfect, before condemning the entire engine. Besides a major carb issue, It could be timing, or major vacuum leak, ignition system issues, or...? ( I would think that if it had a severe enough vacuum leak to cause massive overheating, then the motor would be very difficult/impossible to keep running at lower rpm's) Back to carb potential issues; if the main jetting was partly plugged, it still should be able to idle perfectly unless the idle circuits are also plugged. If the main jetting was OK, but idle circuits are plugged, you'd be forced to fight it to keep running at lowest rpm, but it should run fine at road rpm's if the main jets are Ok. Edit before submit, Matt has just replied on idle quality, so some of my words above are not applicable. At this point, everyone's ideas should be thought about. One thing to ask Matt (on this possibility of setting the cam incorrectly if that could be the heating issue); is if he feels that the engine is far, far worse on heating than before it was taken apart. That water should not back up for very long if you gently rev the engine with cap off. (unless it is very overfilled) Think about it as to what would happen of the cap was on; that large amount of backed up flow would have coolant constantly flowing out of the overflow pipe on a non-pressurized system while driving (which I assume it is non-pressurized?) Coolant that is continuously backing up that much in top tank during a normal shop diagnosis on any engine is normally a plugged core, or a lower hose collapsing under suction. If it only backs up for a few seconds but then stabilizes, that sounds more like just overfilled at hot level.
  2. Lining material from different manufacturers often differ in gripping ability. Soft linings wear faster but stop easier; hard linings wear slower but need more pedal pressure to stop the same as soft linings. So any shop will be correct in saying that all linings should be replaced on any "axle"; meaning do all 4 on the front axle to get balanced braking from both sides of that axle. An experienced brake shop that knows vintage cars should be able to suggest the correct brake lining material for your vintage car with manual brakes. They also should want to know if the drums are cast iron, or if they are pressed steel, as both types used different material on their linings. Brake lining shim stock was once commonly in use for older cars with drums that were worn very oversize from many miles or from being re-machined too many times. The curve of any brake shoe must match the curve inside it's brake drum. Back in the day, shim stock was added under the new linings to have the linings match the drum curve. I have no idea why they did not shim both linings on each front brake. To get your car brakes redone properly, you should also bring your drums to the brake shop when you bring your brake linings, so they can fit the linings to them. The laws changed since the old shim days; shops normally won't use an old drum if it is worn more than .060" from new specs. But, if new drums are not available, maybe shimming is your only choice "if" the shop is willing to do that.
  3. I assume the car is one of your prewars with a hand choke; if it is, then pulling out the hand choke slightly would make a very noticeable improvement if it was jetted too lean. I went through that with a local guy's 40s mopar. He had another shop chase the issues in vain. It obviously felt lean to me so I used the choke to verify that it was too lean. He did say he found a NOS carburetor and I saw online that Mopar offered an optional economy carb for flat terrain that had lean jets. I reamed the jet size and it cured the issue.
  4. I should have answered when I first saw the pics. I knew it rang a bell, meaning it looked like it's the same as a 1962 R200 International wrecker where I worked 40 years ago. I just looked at one online, and it is.
  5. I agree, it's really the only thing that would be wrong, but still allowing the car to be driven without other noticeable issues. If it was a heavy short somewhere, then the symptoms would be very different. Only one wire to disconnect on the generator cutout, to find out for sure.
  6. You are correct, the cover needs to be on the clutch side to prevent grease from getting on the disc which will cause chatter, and the cover also prevents the normal clutch dust from getting into the bearing. On the topic of grease migrating to a clutch disc, often inexperienced people use too much grease on cars that use a bronze oil-impregnated pilot bushing, thinking that it needs grease, (which is not needed). They then end up with needing to take it all apart again due to eventual chatter.
  7. You have to remove parts at the bottom of steering box to be able to pull up on the horn button and lever shafts: The horn wire that comes out of the bottom of steering box needs disconnecting. The light switch has a nut at the bottom that clamps the switch to the long inner light control shaft/tube. The throttle linkage is clamped to it's control tube/shaft at bottom of steering box with a crosswise screw/nut. Then these inner shafts/tubes are pulled upwards away from the steering wheel. On a roadster/convertible there is no roof to get in the way when these long tubes come upwards. If you have a coupe or sedan, you may not have enough room. If so, then the steering box-to-frame bolts need removing, and also disconnect the steering column-to-dashboard bracket to lower the column to get more room.
  8. This is what I was taught by oldtimers over 50 years ago: First turn the engine until the rotor points exactly to the front or exactly to the rear, so that you will remember. (there is a chance that any of us might not get the distributor back in the same day and we forget where the rotor was pointing, so draw a sketch of that when in doubt) next you need a permanent mark on the distributor base right where it enters the engine, and a perfectly placed matching mark on the engine right at your mark on the distributor. I use a center punch or tiny flat chisel. If you used an ink marker or paint, the mark may be gone when you clean the parts later. Most important, do not turn the engine over while the distributor is out, as all the above steps won't correct that mistake. The above steps will allow your distributor, rotor, and initial base timing to end up exactly where it was before you removed the distributor. After the car is back to running, then you need to do the final timing adjustment by the book specs. But at least it will start if you are where it once was. One other thing that you must check on the distributor, either right now, or when it is removed; is to check for excessive slop in the distributor shaft bushing by grabbing the rotor and pushing it side to side. If the bushing wear is excessive, the points won't be stable at all RPMs and the dwell will be affected, (which can cause ignition misfiring issues).
  9. 1962 Chevy; as grille is one year only.
  10. You have described exactly what I am seeing here in Eastern Connecticut. In the last 2 years I have only seen one local stock prewar being occasionally driven on my local roads, a Model A pickup owned by a 75 year old guy. 3 years ago I saw a local stock 32 Plymouth roadster on the road, now it never goes out, and I never see it in his driveway on a nice day; it stays in the garage. I do see "slightly more" hotrod prewars in the last few years on my roads here, but nearly all are driven by guys in their very late 60s or older, so that segment of prewar car hobby will also dwindle/die off sooner than later. I personally only know of one guy left, (30 miles away) who does still enjoy the "building/rebuilding" of prewars as his hobby. He is around 50 and likes stock prewars but mostly builds rods now. I think because he can find a buyer easier than selling a stock one when he finds another project he wants to rebuild. If a person shuts off the internet and car related TV shows, then the hobby seems to be non-existent because they simply are not out on the roads anymore being used as pleasure drives. To me, it also seems like people have no interest in working with their hands like past generations did. Project cars are such a tough sell now. .
  11. Yes, slightly more turning, and usually most steering gears have a bit more available travel than was used in original form;... so hopefully your gears will allow the slight extra needed travel. Also it will be slightly easier to steer while stopped or low speed parking. BTW, heating won't cause any safety issues on drop-forged steel parts, (in case other viewers get panic stricken)
  12. My vote is 57 Chevy passenger car with optional Overdrive trans. Based on front and rear mount locations, and what appears to be a date code of Jan 30, of 1957.
  13. Yes, as most early cars have threaded grease /bearing caps, especially if they have 6 or 8 sided shapes. The car came with a tool for that, but anything will work. They should be right hand threads from what I've seen in 50 years.
  14. 2nd picture, in the backround shows a "one piece fiberglass custom front nose" (hood and fenders combined) to fit the older Falcon you have. A drag racer might buy it on Craigslist, also another race part is the Mallory high performance distributor. The rusted gear on that Mallory will hurt the value, but might bring $25-$50 on a good day. Often, some "hard to find parts or new parts" would be worth listing on C/L. They allow 24 pictures per ad, and that will help selling. .
  15. F&J


    The HAMB will instantly delete ANY mention of doing a frame swap using modern frames. That is fact. The Hamb is about traditional rodding modifications that were done prior to their strict cut off date of 1965. Most frame swaps that are attempted by very inexperienced fabricators end up as unfinished projects that cannot be resold, and then get junked or parted out. However, I do understand why a late model frame swap is considered by inexperienced vintage car owners; and that these people fall in 2 basic categories: -one is that they want the car to behave like a modern car in all respects like handling, braking, dependability of newer components. -two is that others simply feel that it would be cheaper that having their vintage engine and components to be correctly rebuilt for dependability. I totally agree with what Jubilee had the courage (or sensibility) to write. Meaning that most inexperienced people of any age get completely overwhelmed the minute that they lower the old body onto the newer chassis and then see that absolutely NOTHING fits. Being past age 70 you then realize you simply will run out of sunsets before ever finishing it.
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