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Everything posted by F&J

  1. Then you must get the car up high enough to do an underside rust/rot/ or "patched rot" inspection. Early Mustang buyers always look at the front and rear "torque boxes" which are in front of rear tires and behind front tires. It can be see in some YouTube videos. Basically a metal pan that reinforces the undersides of the unibody structire, and could be rotted if the car came from the rust belt. Also look for very noticeably "rust swollen" seams under the car where panels are lap welded together when new. I would not ask the seller to peel up the old dried factory tar, as most cars, even solid ones, will show surface rust from metal staying damp there for decades due to cracked tar. The underside of car is most important. Get a local vintage car guy to help look under there? One more rust area often overlooked on early Mustangs: Water going down through the ventilation vent louvers behind the hood at windshield can cause rot on a tray down in there, and then water from rain or washing the car will get the underdash floor and adjacent carpet wet. It's not easy to fix. But this is also from rust belt cars. Ask him if it gets wet there from washing the car. You never know, you could have a super rock solid car there, rather than worrying about minor surface rust under old seam sealers. Most older car gurus will know in just minutes of looking under the car, to know if it's patched up junk or a very uncommon rock solid survivor that came from a dry area. If it really is a no rot, not patched up early Mustang, don't hesitate too long on purchase if price is ok to you.
  2. I'd put new clear ones back on, to closely look if there are any bubbles as soon as it starts up (to know for sure if it has any combustion leaks). I would first remove thermostat and restrictors so you can have time to watch in those clear pipes as soon as it starts from room temps. (I know you used some chemical that is supposed to show exhaust, but why assume anything at this point of severe frustration). I went back 2 pages. Your first test start; the motor sounds very labored, perhaps timing way,way too retarded. When fighting a nightmare like this, I'd set timing by ear alone, forget timing marks and vacuum gauge timing for now. It's fairly obvious on a typical engine to know when the timing is close enough, as far as idle quality and being able to increase rpm's easily and very smoothly. I recall something earlier about this engine not spinning fast enough with the starter (and also now talking about failing oil pressure).. one more "free thing" to test: Get motor to 180 temp, then shut it off; remove all plugs and turn motor by hand to prove to yourself that it is not too tight. (such as if the bearings are seizing up, which would cause laboring and heating) One more thing biting at your tail at one point is that the engine needs half choke even when warmed up. That might, or might not be a severely leaned-out carb issue, so I'd not assume anything right now in this cluster-f. Needing half choke could be many things and you need to get it to run perfect at all rpm's without choke, and be able to idle perfect, before condemning the entire engine. Besides a major carb issue, It could be timing, or major vacuum leak, ignition system issues, or...? ( I would think that if it had a severe enough vacuum leak to cause massive overheating, then the motor would be very difficult/impossible to keep running at lower rpm's) Back to carb potential issues; if the main jetting was partly plugged, it still should be able to idle perfectly unless the idle circuits are also plugged. If the main jetting was OK, but idle circuits are plugged, you'd be forced to fight it to keep running at lowest rpm, but it should run fine at road rpm's if the main jets are Ok. Edit before submit, Matt has just replied on idle quality, so some of my words above are not applicable. At this point, everyone's ideas should be thought about. One thing to ask Matt (on this possibility of setting the cam incorrectly if that could be the heating issue); is if he feels that the engine is far, far worse on heating than before it was taken apart. That water should not back up for very long if you gently rev the engine with cap off. (unless it is very overfilled) Think about it as to what would happen of the cap was on; that large amount of backed up flow would have coolant constantly flowing out of the overflow pipe on a non-pressurized system while driving (which I assume it is non-pressurized?) Coolant that is continuously backing up that much in top tank during a normal shop diagnosis on any engine is normally a plugged core, or a lower hose collapsing under suction. If it only backs up for a few seconds but then stabilizes, that sounds more like just overfilled at hot level.
  3. Lining material from different manufacturers often differ in gripping ability. Soft linings wear faster but stop easier; hard linings wear slower but need more pedal pressure to stop the same as soft linings. So any shop will be correct in saying that all linings should be replaced on any "axle"; meaning do all 4 on the front axle to get balanced braking from both sides of that axle. An experienced brake shop that knows vintage cars should be able to suggest the correct brake lining material for your vintage car with manual brakes. They also should want to know if the drums are cast iron, or if they are pressed steel, as both types used different material on their linings. Brake lining shim stock was once commonly in use for older cars with drums that were worn very oversize from many miles or from being re-machined too many times. The curve of any brake shoe must match the curve inside it's brake drum. Back in the day, shim stock was added under the new linings to have the linings match the drum curve. I have no idea why they did not shim both linings on each front brake. To get your car brakes redone properly, you should also bring your drums to the brake shop when you bring your brake linings, so they can fit the linings to them. The laws changed since the old shim days; shops normally won't use an old drum if it is worn more than .060" from new specs. But, if new drums are not available, maybe shimming is your only choice "if" the shop is willing to do that.
  4. I assume the car is one of your prewars with a hand choke; if it is, then pulling out the hand choke slightly would make a very noticeable improvement if it was jetted too lean. I went through that with a local guy's 40s mopar. He had another shop chase the issues in vain. It obviously felt lean to me so I used the choke to verify that it was too lean. He did say he found a NOS carburetor and I saw online that Mopar offered an optional economy carb for flat terrain that had lean jets. I reamed the jet size and it cured the issue.
  5. I should have answered when I first saw the pics. I knew it rang a bell, meaning it looked like it's the same as a 1962 R200 International wrecker where I worked 40 years ago. I just looked at one online, and it is.
  6. I agree, it's really the only thing that would be wrong, but still allowing the car to be driven without other noticeable issues. If it was a heavy short somewhere, then the symptoms would be very different. Only one wire to disconnect on the generator cutout, to find out for sure.
  7. You are correct, the cover needs to be on the clutch side to prevent grease from getting on the disc which will cause chatter, and the cover also prevents the normal clutch dust from getting into the bearing. On the topic of grease migrating to a clutch disc, often inexperienced people use too much grease on cars that use a bronze oil-impregnated pilot bushing, thinking that it needs grease, (which is not needed). They then end up with needing to take it all apart again due to eventual chatter.
  8. You have to remove parts at the bottom of steering box to be able to pull up on the horn button and lever shafts: The horn wire that comes out of the bottom of steering box needs disconnecting. The light switch has a nut at the bottom that clamps the switch to the long inner light control shaft/tube. The throttle linkage is clamped to it's control tube/shaft at bottom of steering box with a crosswise screw/nut. Then these inner shafts/tubes are pulled upwards away from the steering wheel. On a roadster/convertible there is no roof to get in the way when these long tubes come upwards. If you have a coupe or sedan, you may not have enough room. If so, then the steering box-to-frame bolts need removing, and also disconnect the steering column-to-dashboard bracket to lower the column to get more room.
  9. This is what I was taught by oldtimers over 50 years ago: First turn the engine until the rotor points exactly to the front or exactly to the rear, so that you will remember. (there is a chance that any of us might not get the distributor back in the same day and we forget where the rotor was pointing, so draw a sketch of that when in doubt) next you need a permanent mark on the distributor base right where it enters the engine, and a perfectly placed matching mark on the engine right at your mark on the distributor. I use a center punch or tiny flat chisel. If you used an ink marker or paint, the mark may be gone when you clean the parts later. Most important, do not turn the engine over while the distributor is out, as all the above steps won't correct that mistake. The above steps will allow your distributor, rotor, and initial base timing to end up exactly where it was before you removed the distributor. After the car is back to running, then you need to do the final timing adjustment by the book specs. But at least it will start if you are where it once was. One other thing that you must check on the distributor, either right now, or when it is removed; is to check for excessive slop in the distributor shaft bushing by grabbing the rotor and pushing it side to side. If the bushing wear is excessive, the points won't be stable at all RPMs and the dwell will be affected, (which can cause ignition misfiring issues).
  10. 1962 Chevy; as grille is one year only.
  11. You have described exactly what I am seeing here in Eastern Connecticut. In the last 2 years I have only seen one local stock prewar being occasionally driven on my local roads, a Model A pickup owned by a 75 year old guy. 3 years ago I saw a local stock 32 Plymouth roadster on the road, now it never goes out, and I never see it in his driveway on a nice day; it stays in the garage. I do see "slightly more" hotrod prewars in the last few years on my roads here, but nearly all are driven by guys in their very late 60s or older, so that segment of prewar car hobby will also dwindle/die off sooner than later. I personally only know of one guy left, (30 miles away) who does still enjoy the "building/rebuilding" of prewars as his hobby. He is around 50 and likes stock prewars but mostly builds rods now. I think because he can find a buyer easier than selling a stock one when he finds another project he wants to rebuild. If a person shuts off the internet and car related TV shows, then the hobby seems to be non-existent because they simply are not out on the roads anymore being used as pleasure drives. To me, it also seems like people have no interest in working with their hands like past generations did. Project cars are such a tough sell now. .
  12. Yes, slightly more turning, and usually most steering gears have a bit more available travel than was used in original form;... so hopefully your gears will allow the slight extra needed travel. Also it will be slightly easier to steer while stopped or low speed parking. BTW, heating won't cause any safety issues on drop-forged steel parts, (in case other viewers get panic stricken)
  13. My vote is 57 Chevy passenger car with optional Overdrive trans. Based on front and rear mount locations, and what appears to be a date code of Jan 30, of 1957.
  14. Yes, as most early cars have threaded grease /bearing caps, especially if they have 6 or 8 sided shapes. The car came with a tool for that, but anything will work. They should be right hand threads from what I've seen in 50 years.
  15. 2nd picture, in the backround shows a "one piece fiberglass custom front nose" (hood and fenders combined) to fit the older Falcon you have. A drag racer might buy it on Craigslist, also another race part is the Mallory high performance distributor. The rusted gear on that Mallory will hurt the value, but might bring $25-$50 on a good day. Often, some "hard to find parts or new parts" would be worth listing on C/L. They allow 24 pictures per ad, and that will help selling. .
  16. F&J


    The HAMB will instantly delete ANY mention of doing a frame swap using modern frames. That is fact. The Hamb is about traditional rodding modifications that were done prior to their strict cut off date of 1965. Most frame swaps that are attempted by very inexperienced fabricators end up as unfinished projects that cannot be resold, and then get junked or parted out. However, I do understand why a late model frame swap is considered by inexperienced vintage car owners; and that these people fall in 2 basic categories: -one is that they want the car to behave like a modern car in all respects like handling, braking, dependability of newer components. -two is that others simply feel that it would be cheaper that having their vintage engine and components to be correctly rebuilt for dependability. I totally agree with what Jubilee had the courage (or sensibility) to write. Meaning that most inexperienced people of any age get completely overwhelmed the minute that they lower the old body onto the newer chassis and then see that absolutely NOTHING fits. Being past age 70 you then realize you simply will run out of sunsets before ever finishing it.
  17. That overall diameter would be a 17" rim, meaning the tire size was marked 17". Many USA cars went from 18" in 1932 to 17" for 1933 and 1934. Yours are narrow rims, so we can rule out big, or expensive cars. Also, many cars had 5 lugs in those years. Chevy did use 6 lugs on the bigger 1933/34 Master series but those Master wheels have a huge center hub compared to yours with smaller, more common style hub size. The smaller Chevy Standard in 1933 had a smaller hub but used 5 lugs. So, the best guess I can give is 1933 Pontiac. I don't recall if we have an AACA member here that owns a 33 Pontiac to have him look. Good luck with your search, I am sure that somebody would need those.
  18. Coincidence; I just bought that type of box marked Napa at a swap last weekend for $1 ..yes a dollar. I will try to take a picture today of the contents and the crimper bits that you use in a bench vise. Decades ago at car shops I worked at, we would get an AC branded inner cable kit that came in a large square blue/white envelope that included the proper metal end for the car you ordered it for, and a throw-away metal crimping bit to use in a vise. Some later? AC kits had a plastic end that you put on after heating the end of the cable. Back then, we just used sidecutters to snip the inner cable to length.
  19. If you can't find out about swapping to a newer backing plate, I do have another idea: If you look at what Ford did on their first hydraulic brakes, they simply welded a short piece of pipe into the backing plate for the cable to enter. Then they made a lever to swing on the rear shoe, which then pushes on a horizontal spreader bar that spreads the 2 shoes apart for the parking brake. It may sound like a big project, but there must be a simple way to add the lever and spreader bar. If you had friends with spare rear brakes from cars that have this very typical setup, you could likely find pieces to fit or to modify. You'd need to cut notches in both shoes for the new spreader bar, and drill one hole on the rear shoe for the swinging lever. I'm thinking you have the skills to figure it out. I totally get why you wanted to ''gear up" your car. Decades ago I sold my nice 32 Plymouth convertible because I just could not go fast enough on secondary roads without screaming the motor while trying to not hold up normal traffic. It was no fun to need to pull off into the gutter to let people pass me, so I sold the car.
  20. a couple of weeks ago when I first saw the auction video where they said it was from Cal, I too thought of the annual wildfires. but now looking at these new Ebay rear view pics, it looks like it was in a structure fire and the building rafters then fell on the rear roof? It was obviously roughly bashed back out with a hammer (but looks like not recently), and then the roof wood looks like it was redone a very long time ago. I work on rough stuff, but I can't see how the body metal could be saved on that car, it's just too badly warped, and it's warped everywhere. And the reserve price will be way too high for a rat rodder type build, so who would buy this car unless the chassis parts are worth that much? Maybe they are. Ed in Mass would know.
  21. AJ, I knew that car looked "very recently" seen by me on YouTube. Then I found it again just now: >Go to 29:00 to 31 minute mark on this very recent outdoor auction video. Yes, the final bid price is audible. Not sure what State it was held in, but this guy does videos from Kansas to Nebraska? areas: The guy does many videos of so many large "hoards" of cars/trucks, and it seems like the old hoarders are now finally dumping their ''collections" in noticeably increasing numbers out there where he travels to. .
  22. Decided to try doing the new king pins. Here is a box of NORS parts that N.B.Pease put together for me several yeas ago when I brought a spindle with me to have him measure everything. He did not have the correct kit, but he has every spec book ever made for all kinds of parts with dimensions of each piece of every type of kit. First, he found a set with the correct pin diameter and length, but that kit had the wrong bushings to fit into the Nash spindles. He then found bushings in another kit that had the correct length and correct O.D. to be able to get a proper press fit, but not too big which might get mangled when you try to press them in. However, he could not find correct thrust bearings, so he included these which were slightly shorter. I did make up a spacer for each spindle bearing to fix that. Well, the new bushings had a smaller I.D., and that certainly could get reamed out (as all king pin bushings do require reaming after install). But these were just a bit too small on I.D. to be able to get my $5 adjustable reamer adjuster sleeve nuts to be able to fit through them to start the cutting.. So I had to use the lathe again to turn down the 2 blade adjusters shown on the left side in the above pic, then also make the taper smaller on the reamer pilot on the left side. It went better than expected. Then you ream one bushing at a time, then put the reamer in through the other end, to do the other bushing. The pilot is very critical to get your reaming to be perfectly in line inside both bushings, or else the new pin will bind as the pin goes through both bushings. This step went really well. I was pretty concerned when adjusting the reamer, that if I went just a bit too much, I'd have no spare bushings if I made one test bore too loose. I just went slow, only adjusting the blades a whisker at a time. Then when the first bushing is done perfectly, you don't have to readjust it, so the second bushing went fast. Also in that pic is my Dads old bushing install set from when he ran a shop in the 50s....but he lost a few pieces .. . I had to use one upside down to ram the old ones out of the spindle and then install the new ones. last step was install the spindle to the axle. Then the cross-ways/pinch/wedge bolt that holds the pin tightly to the axle would not fit in. That's because the new pin was made to have a pinch bolt that has a long tapered flat spot including on the threads. My Nash used a round wedge bolt. I thought there was a better chance to screw it up if I tried to make my bolts have a precise long tapered flat spot, so I just ground a concave groove in the new pins and the Nash bolt tightened up solidly. Tomorrow I will do the other side, and it will go a lot quicker now that the reamer is already set, and I know what mods are needed. The old hardened king pins were really worn out way more than the old brass bushings were. That is some odd thing that occurs when brass rides on hardened steel parts...the brass holds up better for some reason. IDK why, I'm not a scientist.
  23. If you only zero in on that one sentence, I might see why you would do a dislike. However, going line by line in what his thoughts seem to be, my own impression is that he also sees that only a tiny percentage of early prewars are ever seen out on the road. So, rather than sitting dormant where the general public will never see them or appreciate them, he is then less upset about those who do choose to modify one so they can drive it often. BTW, his prior post above that post says that he hopes somebody will restore this Buick to stock. Me too. We will never agree with every precise sentence of what anybody says in a longer web post, and I do disagree that a stock but well sorted prewar is not reliable. Model A tour guys prove that all the time, meaning those owners that go in long distance group tours, have properly repaired their cars to specifically do all day tours. I too, just never see stock prewars out on my local roads, and I could be very wrong on why; my feelings are that mostly the owners can't go fast enough to not hold up traffic, or secondly, maybe worry that the car is not dependable? (even if it really is) At any rate, I see the hobby as far as prewars, surely is in it's demise. 14 years ago when I moved to my place on a busy State Route, I did see a handful pass by on weekends, but now it is only modified prewars, and most are driven by grey beards, not younger people. I suppose it's easy to think that the prewar stock hobby is doing fine if you only go by forums, TV shows, and prewar only car shows, but I have seen a massive decline in the last few decades "in the real world of who actually ever still drives one". I will confess that yesterday I took the day off as it was so warm and sunny which is not very common so far here. Man, I really wanted in the worst way to take the 32 Ford (traditional style hotrod) all the way from east central Ct to the Rhode Island beaches. I miss all the good times I have spent there since the 50s. I will admit that I talked myself out of it and only stayed local touring to scenic water areas all afternoon, because I foolishly think too much about no spare tire, no cell, no Triple A, nobody to have as a passenger in such short notice, etc, etc, etc. Then last evening I thought of just how many miles I put on the car reliably with almost zero proper maintenance as a primary car, and I felt like a jerk for not just going there to R.I. When we were unstressed adventurous teens, we would go there in some pretty sketchy old worn out cars, had a blast, and we always got home, right? .
  24. A few days ago I had a chat with a 78 year old lifelong early prewar guy; he called me about clutch issues with a 31 Chevy he is fiddling with. He said that early Chevys had a solid clutch disc without the shock absorbing spring hub, and that caused chatter and many broken axles back in the day. He also claims that "Chevy used the same clutch spline forever", and there should be a replacement spring hub type disc that will fit. Did this truck have a spring type disc? One more thing on your 3;55 gear swap, my experience with all cars of this era is that the first and reverse gears were geared way up to compensate for the stock rear end ratios in the 4;50-4;80 range, and then the car will be way too fast in 1st and reverse with too high of a rear ratio swap. I am very interested in your test drives for your opinion on the 3;55 swap, and most importantly, can the truck maintain enough traffic speed when you hit hills without running out of power. I went with 3;80 from stock 4;73 on my 32 Nash and I sure can feel first and reverse being a bit higher than I prefer in my yard tests, but I was more concerned about being able to maintain 55mph on secondary State Routes without the engine screaming, but hopefully not running out of enough motor as it is only 70HP in specs. I can't wait for my first road test.
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