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F&J

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Everything posted by F&J

  1. Don't believe all that you read; that is not the one year only 1914 Metz "Speedster". The 1914 Speedster had headlights molded into the front fenders exactly like Pierce Arrow.
  2. No, first reason is it must have been black. 2nd important reason is that it would? look like I was trying to pass it off as a higher end car? 3rd reason is most likely that many prewar guys will already think that the brake drums should be black instead of the lighter blue than the wheels were.....and also think that the fenders should be black. 4th reason, more work I don't need. Sunday the engine was due for pickup in California. Afternoon I went to check my laptop to see if the shipper or seller needed something answered. Well, my internet was Out!...(and they won't be here
  3. That is a "First Series" 1932 which used up the older leftover 1931 bodies. Mine is the Second Series 1932 with more streamlined front fenders, grille shell and body shell. The newer 32 body has a raked-back windshield and posts, and has swoopy beltlines. Almost no parts will fit mine, but I did modify it's steering box for mine, as it is not a Ross box and is superior. That cropped photo was taken outside of a Vogue brand tire store, and I agree. A few days ago, I wanted to get the chassis outside for powerwashing, and it seemed easier to clamp a seat o
  4. those plugs show unburned gas and no signs of oil fouling which is good news. I would not pull the head. Even if it did have a lot of carbon, there are products like GM made to pour down the carb hot, then run it hard. I doubt it has a lot of carbon. Unburned gas is typically ignition related, but on vintage cars it sure could be carb related. You will just have to keep at it, like changing condenser, checking the advance, etc. A very skilled person could probably tell what's wrong in person, or have a good idea of what's up.
  5. Update: more good news. Sorry for a too LONG post! I've been stressed out since I last posted due to lack of steady communication with the seller of the rebuilt motor on California. I had to keep in contact with him, also the transporter who needed more detailed info, and the sellers wife who is handling the payment. Geez, I never owned a cell, never mind a smartphone, and she preferred for me to sign up with my bank and do a Zelle transfer instead of my Paypal. I spent insane time over several days to get it to work, but assumed it was my outdated browser as that does not w
  6. You should definitely bleed the master first like mentioned by two of us. If the entire system is bone dry, often that makes it impossible to get any flow going. By bleeding the master, that will encourage flow into the lines in a huge way.
  7. Many times in the past, I did start with huge project prewar open cars, and I don't really regret it, as I too did enjoy the challenge. More importantly, that is what created my own skills and abilities beyond my dreams. However, It seems that I finally hit the limits of what I can handle mentally when I got to be past my mid 60s. It now turns into what seems like a never ending hill to climb. A minor project is better suited for my own mindset now, but I doubt I will ever buy another vehicle in the future....unless I see a very underpriced big series 32 Nash in survivor condition. LOL
  8. Yes that is correct. But first check to make sure that there is a slight amount of freeplay in the master cylinder push rod when the brake pedal is fully pulled back by the long coil return spring. That rod must not be holding the master cylinder piston inwards at bit, as the drilled port in the master reservoir will be blocked by the piston, and not allowing the piston to "grab" more fluid when bleeding. To explain what Tom said on how to check for internally swelled rubber hoses; disconnect one steel line from the input end of one front brake hose. Then see if you
  9. F&J

    Reo Royale

    Now it's no wonder it looks so chopped with all those modifications. That was a lot of labor back then just to stretch the nose. "whatever the customer wants" it seems. What a decade it was, eh?
  10. F&J

    Reo Royale

    you are slipping, .....or perhaps sipping... LOL AJ's has the custom bodied windshield frame with squared corners.
  11. You should find a shop that is very familiar/good reputation with air cooled VWs, not an "all makes of cars" restoration shop. It would save you a lot of money in the long run..... That's just my opinion as a former factory trained VW dealer mechanic back when you car was new. I've seen so many Bugs that were repaired wrong the first time by inexperienced people, and I had to redo what was poorly done. I suggest you to join; "the samba" , a huge website that is the best, most active vintage VW forum site for decades. The people there should be able to help you: Mai
  12. The leaf style spring is in the handle remote control, not the latch itself. It's confusing about exactly where he means the missing pin was, though.
  13. Send him a message here. If he has not checked here lately, he will still get an email sent to him and will not miss your offer.
  14. Perfect statement right there. No sales fluff, just basic common sense and terms.
  15. Some better news and some not, for today.. First the apparent good: I believe I have found the right person to get the rebuilt Nash engine from "coast to coast". I won't say who as he normally does not haul parts with showcars, and prefers he doesn't get more requests for parts hauling. He just happened to be going to make his last NorthWest coast run before his annual holidays shutdown vacation, and in 9 days will be within 100 miles of where the engine is sitting. Hot Dayum.. I told him up front that there is no rush on either end, and that's what helped the deal
  16. flipped I'm more into dark cars, but if your car was mine, I am positive that I'd leave it alone. It looks great as is. Sometimes good intentions go wrong..... That swoopy body style does not need anything to accentuate any details, it might distract from the super nice flow it has now.
  17. You are drying...I am crying.. Fastenal never even bothered to reply to the only way you can get a shipment started(by web). After waiting 2 days in vain; I called/emailed, and one phone rep gave me 3 more phone numbers of people to call. None were available to talk to. Then I sent an email to the woman I did talk with, begging her to forward my quote specs to the right person. Then late today, the final email: "Thank you for the opportunity to quote. We are not offering any shipments from the West coast into the Midwest or East coast" I could assume it's the
  18. Any time you get bummed out, #1 go back to the first pages to really stare at how the car looked as found in Connecticut....#2 then stare at the old college pic, and bring your mind back to those days. #3 Have a coffee and get back on it...spring is coming..
  19. Just ran his name on Bing, and it shows birth/death header as "1933- " then the dash, so it seems he's still here. Also it listed a RR book written in 2017. My Truck guide fell apart too, some years ago, ...bought it in the mid 80s
  20. I thought you had every ID book made.. just kidding It is the very last illustration in the entire book : Truck Spotters Guide .. in the last section, which is for very obscure orphan makes. I could be wrong from memory, but besides trucks, I think they made Taxi's too?
  21. Yellow Knight do I win anything? ...and no not that wheel either
  22. The most truthful thing so far in this thread. College has turned into a huge corporate scam for "most" of them. I live very close to a major university and a lesser known one, so I see what I speak. That debt will keep them truly enslaved, and with the S-show of 2020 and it's years of future damage to come, they will be upside down for decades in looking for a financial return. Then forced to move to a higher income, but totally congested overpriced area just to stay barely financially solvent.... and now true happiness is put on the back burner perhaps forever.. and their relat
  23. In case you did not know, early car insert bearings were also babbit fused to thick copper inserts, even on the rods. another thing about older replacement bearings not well known, is that some were resizable, meaning they could be machined to a different ID because those marked as such, had extra thick babbit in the bearing shell. I resized some used .010 main bearings on my 55 Olds engine back to STD, and that engine is in my primary year round car...no issues. As far as wondering if the old babbit is still good on a good sounding old engine? That's impo
  24. I very recently found the 3M auto tape at Advance Auto Parts locally. The wrapper explains what level of adhesion, what level of stretch to follow curves, both were rated high. They only carried one width, maybe it is 5/8"?, and I really fought the tighter curves on my beltlines. So if your supplier does have narrower 3M tape, I would buy it. I'm not a pro, but I did sand all overspray with fine paper as close as possible to the beltlines, but it's so easy to hit the new paint by mistake. Those light scuff marks came out by using toothpaste, but I should have taped the belts first t
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