1930 Kram66

Sorry do not have any measurements of the seat frames. You will have to make them suit your car. Luckily I had the metal pieces for the seat, the hinges are from the hardware shop. I did not have any wood to make patterns from for ANYTHING on my car. All the wood was rotted away [read eaten by termites] I did a lot of research and found other guys that had the same car as me. They graciously let me measure things and take lots of pictures and video of their cars. Also I made my own patterns/ templates from plywood or any rubbish wood I could find and mocked up each part of the wooden frame wh

These may help..... at least give you some ideas. from a 1930 Chrysler 66 roadster I restored 15 years ago.

G'day This request for help is directed to my fellow Aussie old car guys. No offence intended to the rest of the world😊 I have two of these for the rear split bumpers [rear mounted spare] I just need one for the front bar. Hoping someone might have a spare they are willing to part with. Any info appreciated Thanks in advance...... Cheers Mark

Thank you for your reply Well, that is very interesting, thanks for sharing this information here. This helps me out tremendously with moving forward on my project. Cheers

Good point. Must admit have not considered that possibility. Thank you

Thank you for your reply. That has been my observation on three of these engines I have seen without the water pump in place. [ I suppose its feasible to imagine the possibility of it just corroding away?????] So for my peace of mind could I ask this ...... Are you able to drive reasonably long distances [say at least 60km 35miles] in various traffic and road conditions [ie slow moving, steep hills etc] in the heat of summer without any overheating issues . As I mentioned in my first post, a part was [then at least 20years ago] being made for these engines . At that time t

Good news - nice work on your part ! Agreed - second shop sounds much better.

40amps!!! no wonder those brushes didn't look happy. 😊 Pleased that you have established that you can adjust the charge rate down. Suggest having the rebuilder replace the wear and tear items and check the windings [insulation] for any damage. BTW I have really enjoyed following along with your project through your posts - it must take a lot of your time - its appreciated. A very big Thank you.

Dont try polarizing the generator .... its working. By all means check to see if you can adjust your charge rate -might be to high. Try moving the third brush in the opposite direction to armature rotation to see if your ammeter reading decreases - with the lights on it should be no higher than 12-15 amps. With no load maybe 3-5amps. If you cant adjust the charge rate easily you have a problem in the field coils.

It is normal to see a SMALL amount of arcing at the brushes.... That said it looks like your brushes are not happy. In the olden days -1970s when generators were still common , while bench testing them we would use a çom-stick to help bed the brushes in to the newly machined and undercut commutator. It was a slightly abrasive material, it looked like a stick of chalk. I have not seen it around for at least 30 years. While the generator was spinning you would apply it to the commutator and you immediately noticed a huge reduction in arcing at the brushes. At a pinch chalk would probably wo

That is correct. The old tin can flasher units flashed much quicker if the load was not correct. ie blown/ wrong globe, wiring fault etc. Some modern units are variable load so they do not necessarily change their flash rate if a fault occurs.

Correct- Though the cylinder does not need to be completely full just enough to allow the function to operate , the gauge above the filter monitor should indicate the approximate level of gas in the cylinder. ie in the green section. From memory the carrier that the bottle sits on had a load cell arrangement . ie if not enough gas [weight] it would not allow the recycling function to be switched on. Here in Australia the Federal government banned the use of R12 around 1996 and we switched to R134a over a period of time after that. Up until about 1998 we were allowed to reclaim a

I used to own and use one of these in the 90s. You generally use them in conjunction with a regular charging station connected to the vehicles A/C system. When operating in recovery mode I would take the yellow hose from the charging station vacuum pump and connect it to the port on the recovery machine [near the red handled valve in your picture] then slowly open the centre hand wheel on the charging station to allow refrigerant to flow from the vehicle through the charging station and into the recovery unit. Then press the start switch and let it run. That would take some ti

That is correct.... for some flasher units. There are 3 terminal flasher units available at parts shops that have the terminals marked as follows... 49 , 49a and 31 - being ground. these were used in mainly European design vehicles in the 80s and 90s. These little buggers tripped up a lot of blokes trying to fix a flasher problem so check the terminal markings before connecting any wires.

Re reversing wires to flasher unit. In general electronic type flasher units are very much polarity conscious and are made for negative grounded systems unless otherwise stated on side of unit. They come in a few different terminal configurations eg some 3 terminal flasher units require a ground to one terminal operate correctly. So not knowing what type of flasher unit you have - 2 wire or 3 wire for the moment it might be prudent not to try reversing the wires . From my experience if you change to supply and load wires on say a 2 wire type some units will work fine, whil