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About ipeeforward

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  • Birthday 10/03/1969

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    Hertfordshire, England

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  1. Sorry just re read your post guess you know what they look like but can’t find repros to buy.
  2. Hi, 1929 Chrysler 75 starter and generator tags Hope that helps.
  3. Hi, Did my worst wheel by hand it was very tedious. The caps around the the rim which hide the balance weights are steel. On mine there we no weights present although the wheels were out of balance. (Only the fronts have them) I added lead washers over threads secured with another nut then put the caps back on. Was a bit trial and error but managed to get the wheel to come to rest at random points in the end.
  4. Hi, Similar setup to Gunsmoke on my 1929 Chrysler 75. Front seat back split with adjustment for the driver only with the t handle on the top. Seat base is one piece and sits in a tray on the floor pan. Seat backs are equal width. Rumble seat back is fixed directly to the lid, seat base one piece sitting directly on the floor pan. I removed the bases to photograph but forgot the upholsterer had closed the bases with material. Both seats have a wooden base. Hope that helps, let me know if I can photo anymore. John
  5. Hi, This article may help. https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/ig104.htm
  6. Hi, I would think that the gauge would be damaged by 12V as it it. You may be able to limit the current flowing through the gauge to the same values required at 6V by adding a resistor of a suitable value in the circuit. You can buy 12V DC to 6V DC (dc to dc converters) but you would need to check out how much current you intend to draw through it as they can only deliver to their rated output. Ta John
  7. Hi John, I checked my gauge by removing the wire from the sender and replacing it with a decade box (selectable resistor) to the chassis and recorded the following. Short to frame - Full (needle on stop) 10ohms - 1 division over 3/4 20ohms - 2.5 divisions over 1/2 30ohms - 1 division over 1/2 40ohms - 3 divisions over 1/4 50ohms - 1.5 divisions over 1/4 60ohms - 1/4 70ohms - 3 divisions over E 80ohms - 2.5 divisions over E 90ohms - 2 divisions over E 100ohms - 1.5 divisions over E 110ohms - 1 division over E 120ohms - Empty
  8. Hi John, If you give me a day or so I can test mine and let you know. ta John
  9. I have been asked to do 2 weddings using my 1929 Chrysler 75, the bride and father and then bride and groom rode in the rumble (dicky in G.B.) seat. It's always the most popular seat to have a go in at the car shows. 2 adult passengers means less room for picnic items though. 🙁
  10. Hi, 1929 75 Locke body dickie seat catch. let me know if you need anymore.
  11. Hi Pete, I had the same problem on a Lockheed master cylinder I overhauled. I switched to silicone brake fluid as it seemed a good idea however the new old stock seals I used swelled up in service and as has already been pointed out blocked the tiny compensation hole when the master cylinder was at rest causing the brakes to drag after a few applications. As I couldn't get any brand new seals I went back to dot4 fluid with some more old stock seals and haven't had any problems since. I also have a 1929 Chrysler 75 happy to chat if needed. John F
  12. Hi not sure if this helps or if my understanding of the position of the felts makes this info relevant.
  13. The coil will work either way round but as the link below explains will work better if correctly wired. My 1929 75 was round the wrong way, starting was much better when corrected. http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/ig104.htm
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