Sasha39

Hi Tom, Not clear about what you are asking, but here is what your Bleeder Valve should look like, you should have one screwed into each of your 4 wheel cylinders, as far as a tube is concerned any tube will do as long as it fit tight over the nipple at the end of the valve (screw) and is long enough to drain the Brake fluid into a container. Yes start at the furthest wheel cylinder and work your way to the nearest to the Master cylinder, hope this might help you.

Fermato is this the post?: https://forums.aaca.org/topic/364277-1928-chrysler-oil-canister-on-firewall-original-or-retro-fit-trying-to-find-suitable-filter-element/?tab=comments#comment-2230407

Hi Dave, They say that a picture says a thousand words so please have a look at the photos to give you an idea of how it works, from memory the povit bolts are Right hand threaded, hope this will help you.

I would add that once you have your pivot mounts off you might spray a lubricant in the holes just to ease the brackets out. GOOD LUCK!

Hi there, I think you'll find that the item that you refer to as the nut is actually a bolt head that is screwed into a 90 degree steel bracket that is inside of the frame at the top, this is how the pivot mounting is held in place, once you unscrew that bolt (if there's another one on the other side you'll have to undo that one too) and when both bolts are out the pivot mounts can come off and you can gently tap the top frame away the the rest of the frame , just make sure to do both sides evenly you don't want to twist or bend the frame

Good to see you got your shocks working again, good luck with finding a screen

Fermato, I can't see any holes in the screen, why not just pull apart and soak in diesel for a day and blow out with compressed air, that all I do while rebuilding the pump.

Thanks for the reply 28 Chrysler and Mark, Just what to know if you had one or needed one, as I have one and its got your name on it Mark so if you need or want it. just let me know. Cheers mate!

Nice work Mark! Mate looking at some of your photos did you realise that you have two small holes in the Headlight cross member? and if so what are they for?? Cheers Alex

Yes there are differences between the Rear and Front backing plates, the rear ones bolt straight onto the rear axle housing so would be flat, the front ones would need to be concave around where you bolt it onto the stub axle so that when you turn the steering the backing plate won't hit the axle.

Some have been successful in installing an overdrive in-between the gear box and diff giving them the benefit they were looking for. " I’ve used the original 3 speed box and fitted the overdrive just behind it. Pete that has helped me with my engine and the rest of the car has done this on a few of his dodge’s and it adds about 10 mph to the top speed" This has been done to a few Chrysler's as well

As always BEAUTIFUL work, hope my tourer comes up to at least approaching your standards.

Yes 1929 Chrysler 75 model manufactured Oct 28.

G'day there Lambroast, I'm sure that Mark will reply to your pm, but in short the answer is yes the main runners are one piece from Cowl to the back of the body no matter what style of body, the rear part of the floor does raise up a step at around the high point of the chassis, this step up is achieved by screwing another piece of timber on top of the main runner to bring it to a height just over the high point of the chassis, if you look at Mark's photo you can see the bracket on the side of the chassis just in front of the fuel tank cover that's where the main runner is bolted down your chassis should have the same bracket. Good luck with your project.

G'day Mark, Is your's a Holden built body? In some of the photos of your Cowl it appears that the left side is showing to two telltale small holes where the Holden would have been screwed on, are you looking for any parts for your car?