Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

14 Good

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. My credit union was odd...they don't offer auto loans on antique cars but they said because of what would be considered the collateral it be way better to do a personal loan (below 3 percent interest)🤷‍♂️
  2. So I've been looking into replacement parts and browsing through the usual place I look (eBay...) I've been seeing alot of NORS ( New Old Replacement Stock) lately, mainly valves and springs. Now, I found a few supplier that have new "modern" replacement parts and was curious if there's any advantage on those than using NORS. The only thing I could think of that modern valves would have an advantage would possibly be the metallurgy? I suppose if the seats are hardened then it wouldn't matter about the valves. Thoughts?
  3. Just a heads up! You might be waiting awhile to hear back! It took me over 2 months to finally get in touch with them on the regular, they should be pretty good at matching your trim but with mine they had the incorrect pattern so I had to cut out a few sections from my seats so they could match
  4. So I may have figured out at least who made the gaskets! The manufacturer was "Victor Mfg & Gasket company" I've seen some catalogs on ebay and looks like they been around from at least 1910? And was absorbed by Dana which is now Victor Reinz... I have no clue if they were the original supplier for GM though... Just a photo I pulled from eBay for reference...
  5. As promised! I return with some more photos! And boy, these do not disappoint! First up, intake manifold is off! Unfortunately the copper pipe that runs from the intake manifold to the water pump broke...my usual sources to get hard to find parts turned up nothing but fabricating a new one should be nice and easy. I opened up the blank off plates up top and what was hiding under kinda gives me a big indicator on how bad the water jackets are... mmmm....lovely! The intake manifold gaskets are very interesting to me, I've never seen this but perhaps someone can chime in
  6. This is what the advance technical manual says : So I guess they were trying to make the mechanics life a little easier rather than have them break their necks trying to see the block number on the front! The manual was printed December of 48 so since this is technically a "1950" engine though with a 49 engine number this paragraph is moot.
  7. Hey everyone!!! Definitely has been awhile, just a little update on what's been going on with the Oldsmobile! Not much but it's something. So long story short. It seem that the coolant flush I tried doing had little to no effect on getting the crud out the block...But that's fine since I'm pulling the motor and transmission out anyway. I did find a little nasty surprise hiding under the valve covers and what this motor has been through and I'm genuinely surprised that the valves has not been cooked! This is the passenger side and it's literally bone dry!!! What you see is ju
  8. Thanks for that, though since it is year correct by that. I wonder why the engine number is stamped on that pad and not what both of my manuals state where it should be... Also, from what I have read the "H" suffix only appears on 1950 engine. Could it be that their standard practices changed and wasn't noted in preparation for the 1950 models? ( My car seems to be possibly built at the end of 49 judging by the dates stamped on door insulations in my car) guess I won't know unless by some miracle a service bulletin is floating around and found!
  9. As the title suggests I'm very perplexed on this and maybe someone can shed some light onto this.... So in a nutshell, I have a feeling that my Olds 303 may not be "year correct" to my 1949 Olds 88... And here's why. Looking through my shop manual it clearly states that the engine number is stamped upside down on the front driver side below the cylinder head. Nothing there. I just got in an advance technical manual and it states there are two places where the engine number is stamp. First one as mentioned above and another stamped on the passenger side cyli
  10. I think it's because alcohol/water mix was still being widely used for engine coolant and thats probably what contributed to the heavy rust problems. I want to assume that ethylene glycol was just emerging on the market and from my service manual even says though it has superior properties it is prohibitly expensive Ouch!! I'm glad you were able to find one, I have to double check with my radiator shop to see if they can save it which I'm sure they can for a small fee! When I have time next I'm going to fill the cooling system with thermocure and distilled water. Should be some
  11. Thank you everyone for the welcome! So far the car has been rather interesting to work on! I have messed around with the timing somewhat and that whole thread can be found Here Today I've been wanting to tackle a problem that will definitely give grief down the road if I don't try to tackle it now...and that's overheating!!! I know something was amiss when you open the radiator cap and you see what appears to be chocolate milk colored coolant! (Uh oh!!) I remember reading around here that the early olds motors were prone to having a buttload of sediment in the lower block...well I
  12. Hey everyone! Figure I might as well start up a "restoration" thread and also introduce myself while I'm at it! So.... Long story short me and the Mrs. were going through a very dark time and were looking for an outlet so to speak. We both have been talking about wanting a classic car to restore and make a car that will "stay in the family" so to speak. I did run up into GA to look at a '38 buick roadmaster and was disappointed in the condition and on the way back into Fla I happened to stumble into what is now our 1949 Oldsmobile 88! A little back story on this vehicle is that we'
  13. It should be right?! Lol I feel like maybe this thread is getting a little long in the tooth but that might just be me...either way, everyones input on this is quite the eye opener and learning something new is always good! Long story short....I just decided "you know what, to hell with it I'm just going to play with the distributor for giggles and see what happens! So i advance the distributor say, 3 degrees? And now the light is firing just at TDC...well it definitely has, let's say. "Awoken the beast" and any time you remotely give the engine any throttle it wants t
  14. It may sound like that by how the manual is worded but it's adjustment is pretty much like any other distributor, Loosen the hold down bolt and clamp bolts. The advance plate inside is held in place by 3 screws and rotates by either the vacuum advance arm or by the mechanical weights underneath...there is a piece of felt in-between the two plates the move by 3 ball bearings inside and lubricated with the felt. when I tore down the distributor and removed the advance plate I was surprised how spotless it was underneath given the amount of grime everywhere! The " arrow" the manual refers to on t
  15. I guess it's because it's assuming that our vehicles require no further adjustments other than making sure that both the distributor is set to 0 and that cylinder #1 is firing between the two marks. As far as other people saying it's also to do with our modern fuels are vastly different to the day that our cars used to run on started to make me wonder exactly what octane rating our cars ran on! After digging on the internet I found a paper from the U.S Dept. Of commerce dated 1950 which talks about motor fuels and the various subjects, and in short...2 different octane
  • Create New...