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Classic Automobile Hobby "Don'ts"


capngrog

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I thought that a thread on things that a classic automobile enthusiast should never do, would be both useful and entertaining. I'm sure there are many "don'ts" our members have encountered over the years.

I'll start it off with a quote from cahartley stolen from his Post#4 in the "Re: 1925 Overland Title Wrong Year?":

Don't ever mess with a clear title....... :eek:

Of course another would be the ever-relevant: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

Cheers,

Grog

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Change it to 12v: it will start better!

Put a modern engine in it ! Those old engines are unreliable!

Get rid of those points and condenser! Put it a 'reliable' electronic ignition!

Why pay for Leather?? This new Vinyl looks JUST LIKE leather !

Chrome it! That nickel is always needing polishing!

GLong

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Don't do car restorations for all organizations!

If your into judging for your cars; "gear" your restoration for the club you will get it judged. eg.: If your redoing a Corvette for Bloomington Gold or NCRS you

will have to have a totally original car. If your doing it for AACA you do not have to be as no where as original as they permit all kind of "Dealer Installed"

items and the judges are not in the same league as the other organizations. This will save you a lot for the cost of the restoration but of course the value of your

car will reflect it. Larry

Edited by llskis (see edit history)
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Don't forget, any car advertised as an easy restoration, ain't..............

Don't put new knobs on the radio of an original car, before you know it you'll have the car apart to restore to make everything match..........

Don't put hours and dollars into the mechanics of a car, then at the end, when you're out of money, try to get by "cheap" on paint and upholstery.....

Don't forget, you can pick any two: fast, cheap, correct. You'll never get all three........

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Guest Skyking
I can buy this car, fix it up a little, sell it and make a quick profit.

Funny, that's what I 've been telling my wife on every car in my garage.

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Don't ever let a day go by without accomplishing at least one thing on your project car - otherwise, your wife, or children, will be selling the basket case after your gone.

Don't ever buy an inoperable car to save money when you could have purchased one that was in running condition for a few hundred more.

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When doing a restoration, do it right the first time. Don't EVER "do it just to get by for now" thinking you will do it better later. You will end up spending years of regrets afterwards "fixing" the things you did to "get by" ...wishing you had spent the time to do it right the first time.

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Don't be angry when somebody see's your (put your car here) and says. "I have a Model T Roadster just like yours, except it's a Chevy SS Hemi 4 door hardtop". Juat smile and say "That's rare!"

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Dandy Dave's Top ten reasons to walk away....

1. Don't start a restoration and then end up in divorce half way though unless you are Big Daddy Warbucks and can afford 10 wives and 100's of cars. Personally I think it will even leave him broke.

2. Don't think that car that has been sitting in the back 40 along the hedgerow and neglected for 50 years is going to start up and drive right out like the day you parked it. It just aint gonna happen cupcake.

3. Don't fall in love with the solid half, and the ignore the rusty half. Specially when half way down the doors is basically gone.

4. Don't forget to take a magnet when looking at a potential cream puff.

5. Unless you have a ware house full of spare parts, don't buy a car that spits antifreeze out of the exhaust.

6. Don't buy a car that has signs of sawdust around the rearend plug and floor.

7. Don't buy a car for Top Dollar. Even with pedigree papers, Just don't. No profit in paying top dollar anyway. Smart Business men don't, why should you?

8. Don't buy a car that blue smoke is pouring out of the automatic transmission unless you are a transmission rebuild specialist.

9. Don't buy a car that the motor oil looks and feels like honey. It has a Walmart motor job in a can rebuild.

10. Don't buy any Classic unless you have/ can afford inside storage for it. Keep in mind that it takes 3 to 4 times the space to restore one as it does to park one that is together. If you do not have the space, walk away and keep your money in the bank.

This message has been brought to you by, Dandy Dave!

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Count on every car you acquire to have things wrong with it. Sometimes the better the body/paint/trim the worse the mechanicals are. Six-figure CCCA "Full Classic" from an auction? plan on fixing six things, two of them expensive fixes--that is, if you want to use it as a functioning car.

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I will go along with a place to store your treasures.

BUY OR BUILD A STORAGE FACILITY BEFORE YOU INVEST IN YOUR CARS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Don't take your 100 point show car on tour and don't try to show your driver and expect to win. I know some clubs require a short driving tour before they allow it to be judged but just don't press your luck. The fact is that without a great deal of needless effort your show car will never be good enough for concourse and your driver will almost always disappoint if you expect to be competitive.

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don't start a restauration when you have a alcohol problem

you end up with a lot of parts and don't know where everything goes

jan

We had a local fellow here. A TV repair man everyone called Rollie. He did his best repair work three sheets to the wind. :P Only thing I can figure is he must have been drunk when he was learning. :o Dandy Dave!

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Don't believe a new customer when he says "I just want a nice driver and will NEVER show it".

Most people don't realize what a problem this is for restorers. Your name gets attached to the car. The owner will never admit to telling the restorer to just do a "quickie".

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If your doing it for AACA you do not have to be as no where as original as they permit all kind of "Dealer Installed"

items and the judges are not in the same league as the other organizations. This will save you a lot for the cost of the restoration but of course the value of your

car will reflect it. Larry

This quote provides us with another example of repeated misinformation.

First, "Dealer Installed" items are acceptable within AACA judging ONLY if the owner can provide FACTORY DOCUMENTATION that the item was available! Not just any dealer-installed item is acceptable, and most likely not the Fuzzy Dice or Propeller-Hood Ornament or Swan Wings which light up at night, even if the dealer did sell and install them. Just because J. C. Whitney items "Could" have been dealer-installed, that does not make them acceptable in AACA judging.

Second, the supposition that AACA judges "are not in the same league as the other organizations" is derogatory to the more than one thousand hard-working and well-experienced member-judges. These caring, generous men and women volunteer their time, and travel cross-country at their own expense to attend National Meets, Judging Schools and Continuing Judge Education which are also conducted by well-experienced volunteers. In addition to having areas of particular expertise, AACA Judges need to be able to serve as generalists since they will be assigned to a wide variety of classifications, depending upon the requirements of a particular Meet, ranging from Brass-Era to Tri-Five Chevrolet to Isetta and Messerschmitt to Model-A to Specifically-defined Classics, and well beyond these meager descriptions. These same judges may be assigned at one Meet to work in the area of Chassis (undercarriage) and at the next Meet be assigned to Engine Compartment or Exterior or Interior. Being a generalist is an asset and a very positive thing. Their performance is under on-going scrutiny, as is the performance of Judging Team Captains. Additionally, we have a well-educated and field-experienced team who diligently work behind the scenes in Judging Administration. These individuals diligently review each and every judging score sheet and Team Captain sheet for accuracy as well as methodology to ensure quality and fairness to every vehicle/owner. A special judging team evaluates "Unrestored Originality" for vehicles entered in the "Historic Preservation of Original Features", and yet another team evaluates vehicles entered for the "Driver Participation" class.

Third, the cost of restoration should not reflect the club for which you plan to show, but rather the individual pride you display in your personal effort. The value of your vehicle does not necessarily depend on your choice of club as many of us support (and pay dues to) several clubs.

I respect that each club has its own judging methodology. Would our Senior Grand National 1934 Buick achieve the same level of recognition at a National Meet of the Buick Club of America? Possibly so because of the quality and level of detail involved in the restoration. This does not make one "better" than another. I ask that you respect our judging as well as those of other clubs, and invite you to attend our Judging School. Attendance is free of charge, and you even get a free copy of our current Judging Manual.

Learning is always a good thing.

Respectfully submitted,

Marty

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Edited by Marty Roth (see edit history)
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Don't tinker needlessly, if you fool with anything long enough, you'll break it.

"Simple" repairs never are.

Don't worry, I'll just touch it up a bit, no one will ever know and it'll look better.

It'll be an easy restore, just needs a quick refresh, should be done at the end of (name the season.)

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Guest Skyking

Don't pile crap on it and use your restoration project as a shed. Years will go by and you'll forget what it looked like.

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Bulldog, you are exactly right, and we encourage participation - as well as more judges !!

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