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Mark Huston

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About Mark Huston

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  1. There has to be a story behind this, care to share? I vacationed in Kona on the <ST1:pBig <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com</st1:PlaceType>Island </ST1:pa couple years ago. Loved every minute of it and hated to return to my reality.<O:p</O:p
  2. As George Hull once said "There's a sucker born every minute."
  3. #1 is a 1927 – 1928 Studebaker Atalanta. This cap was only used by Studebaker for 2 years. In 1929 Studebaker went with a “winged” cap. Below left is the 1927-28 Studebaker Atalanta, right is the 1929-30 Studebaker winged cap.
  4. I just placed an order with them this week. They shipped immediately and their products are good quality.
  5. Starting with post WWII auto production after Jan 1946 the Zephyr name was dropped from the Lincoln line up. The 1946 Lincoln models included the Lincoln Club Coupe which used the pre-war Zephyr body. The car you have pictured looks like it could be a 1946 Lincoln Club Coupe.
  6. I love that picture, the look on his face reminds me of how I must have looked when I lost a front wheel on my 1971 Datsun pickup several years ago. The truck was high mileage and needed constant maintenance. I did some work on the front brakes and put the wheels back on neglecting to fully tighten the lug nuts. At the time I was working in an office that required me to wear a suit and tie to work. After getting the truck back together I took off for work, wearing my best suit, and drove about 20 miles when I was rounding a corner, approaching my office, I saw my left front wheel fly past
  7. Here is the before and after pictures of a 1929 Studebaker Dictator Cabriolet that I found in an almond orchard in Durham, CA. A friend of mine bought the car and restored it from the frame up. He did all of the work himself in his garage and drive way about a 5 year period. My friend is the fourth person to own the car since the “restoration” was started in the 1960s and completed about 2007. The preceding three owners tore the car apart and collected incorrect parts to add to the parts pile. It took 5 truck loads to haul everything home from the almond orchard.
  8. Frazer51, great save of a beautiful car. In about 1989, I was driving my 1929 Studebaker Commander along a country road. I was followed by a friend of mine with his 1930 Buick business coupe. My friend had a fully restored show car; mine was a well maintained original. At one point I noticed my friend flashing his lights and beeping his horn at me, so I pulled over onto the shoulder of the country road, which was nothing but dried out grass. My friend came running up to my car with his fire extinguisher and started to put out the fire under my car – both the car and the grass were now on
  9. I have an original 1928-29 paint chip for Studebaker Tapestry Blue produced by the Acme White Lead and Color Works, Detroit, Mich. The back of the paint chip includes the following formula for the color: To 1 quart Proxlin Coach Blue Medium Add 9 ozs Basic Tinting Prussian Blue Add 1 oz. Basic Tinting Maroon Add 1 oz. Basic Tinting Ultramarine Blue The paint chip (inside under artificial light) is so dark it almost looks black. The color chip I have is about the size of an index card. For my car, I have taken the paint chips to a paint shop to color match to the chip.
  10. The cowl tag identifies the model, body style, and body production number. I will use my 1929 FE President Brougham as an example. The cowl tag reads: FEB 21. This is decoded as FE for the 135 inch wheel base President; B for Brougham; and the number 21 identifies this as the 21st Brougham body in production. The Brougham was only produced with six wire wheels. On production cars with various optional body styles the cowl tag would include an additional identifier. Example is the sedan body; this would read FE W1 followed by the body number; or FE W2 followed by the body number. The W st
  11. The forum moderator’s combined the Pre and Post War Studebaker forums years ago. Now there is just this one forum for all Studebaker's.<O:p</O:p
  12. No, do not disassemble the wheels; just take them off the car so that you can work with them on a flat surface. The wood felloes remain in the metal hub and rim while you apply the Swell & Lock to the joints of the felloes at the hub and the end of the felloes in the rim. The wheels need to be lying flat to allow the Swell & Lock to soak into the joints of the felloes without running off.
  13. Many years ago my brother had the same problem with his 1929 Studebaker President which had loose wood wheels that made considerable noise when he drove the car. To solve the problem he was directed to use a product called “Wood Swell & Lock”. This is a product used by furniture builders to swell wood dowels. My brother took the wood wheels off of the car cleaned them prior to applying the Swell & Lock. Over a period of approximately a week he would periodically apply Swell & Lock to both ends of the wood felloes allowing it soak in before reapplying. After the treatment with
  14. Bryan, In the current issue of the Antique Studebaker Review there are two Big Six Studebaker touring cars listed for sale. A 1922 EK Big Six 7 passenger for $10,000; and a 1926 EP Big Six 7 passenger for $12,000 (located in Sweden ad states price includes shipping).
  15. Happy to help. Car ads in the 50s and 60s are far more classy then the stuff used today. I can’t picture a Hundai or Kia ad featuring a couple in evening clothes leaving the opera or a fancy restaurant.
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