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About StillOutThere

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    Under the X in Texas

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  1. You must be listening to the fan or your throttle linkage /carburetion or timing is very poorly adjusted. The car should do sixty EASILY. My '35 does.
  2. The first Essex-Terraplane was introduced in July of 1932. Name remained "E-T" through 1933. The '32s are narrow tread. What is the backing plate to backing plate measurement of this front axle?
  3. Got my bushings from ESPO Springs and Things. Very knowledgeable sales dept and very reasonable prices!
  4. Three comments: A chassis grease cup needs to be turned down "hard" to force the grease into the mechanical joint. The distributor and clutch cups need a very small turn; one revolution at the most. The old grease in any cut you have should be removed and washed out and a modern grease filled into the cup.
  5. What do you need to shim? Pinion play? Axle end play? Driveshaft angle? Clarify please.
  6. Not mine. A friend has this wheel among a few inherited parts and is needing help identifying it. It is not for sale at this time. I was guessing '36-38 and thinking '36 was the earliest banjo offered at Dodge and I do not know the last year. Little help from the experts here please? Thanks.
  7. Attaching some pics of details of my '35 Dodge wheels in hopes they are helpful to you. I expect they are the same wheel you are seeking. Sorry I have no spares. In the full wheel photo the single bolt center plate is the retainer to the sidemount bracket.
  8. I second the "secure with zip ties" idea for those of us that have the the covers. Have done so with my '35 Dodge. Very small ties, just used two at opposite corners.
  9. Not an engineer, just an experienced hobbyist who at one time partnered in a restoration shop and then later managed another shop. Have had conversations with radiator builders and known a couple of those Detroit engineers. Another thought would be that the impeller in your pump has come loose from its shaft. Some are swadged, some pressed, some welded. Some come loose! That could cause no visible flow. There are always MANY things to consider to fix an old car problem. There can only be ONE FIX for the actual problem.
  10. Used to be there were many sway bar link replacement kits available in the hobby and in the stores. But they are a high wear item both for the bushings deteriorating and wear on the shaft. You may have to go with something like this from auto parts stores. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/masterpro-chassis-4348/suspension---steering-16778/chassis-16549/sway-stabilizer-bar-link-12663/68abce94fb1f/masterpro-chassis-stabilizer-bar-link-kit/k80631/4500827?q=sway+bar+link Then rethread to match length of your original and adjust the length of the spacer tube as well. And a coat
  11. Automotive drive train engineers will tell you that approximately HALF of the cooling of an internal combustion engine is the oiling system and the other HALF is the cooling system.
  12. Provide the VIN and a picture of the car. You want one that fits YOUR car, not any Chrysler from '31-34 - there are significant changes.
  13. Very well paid engineers designed the pump and cooling system of your car for exactly the correct volume of water movement. You won't out-think them.
  14. I don't recall two being built by Martin Swig, the "afficionado" you seem to reference. I recall him having one coupe and it was a '52 Saratoga and the shop that did race prep are friends of mine. What documentation do you have? "Chrysler Historic Racing" is a run of decals Swig made up just for fun, no sanctioning by Chrysler was ever claimed to my knowledge.
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