dl456

Hello Joe, Those should be for 1-1/2'' hose. Unfortunately, I just bought four of those I am looking for two clamps for 1-1/8'' hose. - 1-1/2'' id. Thanks

Hello Joe, What is the id with the clamp relaxed as in the pictures? Do you have the screws and square nuts? Thanks, Dennis

Looking to buy or trade four brass hose clamps for 1-1/2'' ID radiator hose. I have several larger sizes to trade. Thanks, Dennis

Thanks Ethan, Clutch will be back Friday. I'll let you know. Dennis

Scott and George, Thanks a bunch! If you ever encounter an extra book, I'm interested. Dennis

Hello George, I have been unable to locate that book. I will keep looking. In the interim, could you possibly post the corresponding pages with the parts description for the numbers on the diagram. I would very much appreciate it if available. Thanks, Dennis

Thanks George, That will help. Is this from the parts manual? Dennis

Hello, I have the repair manual for Studebaker series 20. I do not have the parts manual ( if available.) Does anyone have a exploded view of the transmission? I have some issues that I need to address. Thanks, Dennis

Hello, The junk ring cannot leak water unless the head gasket is leaking. How much moisture? Residue? Oil milky? Do you have a oil rectifier? Functioning properly? Dennis

Bob, Great looking work. How do you get the leather to hold it's shape after you remove them from the die set? Thanks, Dennis

Hey Bob, Please keep the die set if you can. I have the same turn signals as DB 26. NOS still in the box. I may need a set as well. I haven't had time to play with them. DB. Let us know how they work. Thanks, Dennis

Thanks for the replies. I have used Semichrome polish before. Nickel is relatively soft compared to chrome and I always think about aggressive compounds when polishing. Steve< For personal erosion and to combat galvanic reactions, I recommend Woodford Reserve. May not prevent or delay but you don't care as much! Dennis

Hello, Wondering about the favorite polish/protectant for nickel plated trim in good condition. I have tried several with decent results but I'm always concerned about getting too aggressive with nickel. Got a favorite? Dennis

Nothing at all to be worried about in a well sorted and good running sleeve valve engine. They wear very little and actually do tighten up (compression wise) with use. In a well sorted engine the only noise you will hear is the carb sucking air. Plenty of power and they somewhat enjoy the higher rpm's. Valve timing (sleeves) can drive you a little nuts but it's not rocket science. Due to the processes and machining capabilities, each piston, inner sleeve, outer sleeve and cylinder was assigned a letter A-D based upon it's dimensions after manufacturing. During assembly, these letters were matched with the bores .An "A" bore will have "A" sleeves and piston. This was to achieve the tolerances sought in these engines when new. The sleeves are cast iron and a true work of art. You never hone a sleeve but bump it round to achieve best fit. (I didn't believe it either but it works) A total rebuild in today's world is near impossible. Surplus sleeves and junk rings are non-existent. Because of this, I would never attempt to rebuild another one, but I would have no problem buying a running machine. Dennis For those that are wondering, the junk rings seal the heads (true Hemi) to the inner sleeve during compression stroke. The heads have a small hole in the compression chamber that allows some of the compression charge to escape behind the junk ring to seal against the inner sleeve during combustion.

Thanks, Tony is my go to guy for linoleum. Excellent quality. Any idea what the original trim metal looks like? Dennis