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About Ohjai

  • Birthday 03/03/1939

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  1. Nope, did not work. Ronnie, this is a new part I just received from Kanter, I am hesitant to start taking it apart, it just does not want to work for me. My trust in the reliability of parts from the orient is not that great, so now, if I were to be able to kludge it together, I don't know if I want to trust my life on that part.
  2. Great idea Ronnie. I will disconnect the pedal and see what happens
  3. If the fluid does not flow from the reservoir to the out let, I'm not sure anything will work. I am ready to return to to Kanter. I just do not trust Chinese parts, especially assembled parts. Jim
  4. Thanks John. It has been filled since Saturday, with the lines open. I removed the lines this morning and nothing after 3 hours. I think I have a dud MC. Am heading out to a parts store to get a hone, I have a rebuild kit, and I am going to rebuild the old one. Will let everyone know how it turns out. Jim
  5. I just removed the line and brake switch on the master cylinder, tried to pump the pedal, no fluid comes out of either port. It may be possible the pump was actuated during shipping, because I read the tag and DID NOT push the plunger in more than a couple of inches, and was cautious when I attached it pump to the brake pedal.
  6. Okay, I did not bench bleed the master cylinder, I installed it, put fluid in it, then attempted to bleed the system. Nothing comes out when I stroke the piston, I am only moving the piston a short distance by hand, not going to the floor. Do I have to remove it to bench bleed it?
  7. I installed the Kanter Master Cylinder, filled it up with brake fluid and no fluid comes out of the master cylinder. I was careful not to push the piston in very far. Not only does it not work, but it concerns me as to the reliability of the part and subsequently on the supplier. Jim
  8. I purchased brake parts from Kanter, Carid, and Inline Tube. So far, the Kanter master cylinder does not work, the front drums from Carid have five hole mounting instead of 4 hole, and the Inline Tube is fantastic. I suppose this means I am batting .333% on brake parts. The Kanter master cylinder has a tag attached that instructs you to NOT press the brake pedal to the floor when bleeding the brakes. If you do, something moves too far and gives an indication the master cylinder has failed. Does this mean, if I loose brake pressure for any reason, with the pedal going to the floor board, in addition to repairing the failed item, I also have to repair the Master cylinder. This appears to me to be a very unsafe way to repair your brakes. What are your thoughts? Jim
  9. Looking to purchase copies of the "Compact Buick Gazette" and "The Little Buick's Siren"
  10. Don't be a cheapskate, buy an AC system that will really work from someone like Classic Aire.
  11. A good source for old radio information can be found at https://www.radiomuseum.org/ Jim
  12. lump, that is interesting, thank you. I used both P-S-T and Kanter to get all the parts I was looking for for my 62 Buick Special. Did not see all of the parts on one site, so I ordered from both. Jim
  13. Thank you all, I am learning. What I am considering is a complete set from Old Buick Parts http://www.oldbuickparts.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_491_492&products_id=10373 Has anyone used this company? Good or bad results? Is this the company I should use or do you have other suggestions? How do I tell if I have screw or pressed in ball joints? Thanks Jim
  14. In my quest to find parts for my new (to me) 1962 Buick Skylark I have found a site that is using polyurethane instead of rubber in the various suspension components. I know that polyurethane is more tolerant to exposure to oil and oil products, with an increase in service life. But! Does it compromise the comfort of the ride, how about noise? Is it worth it? Thanks Jim
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