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KDirk last won the day on November 19 2015

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About KDirk

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  1. I don't believe a specific paint 'code' has ever been found for the 1991 stock wheels. There was an old GM TSB I posted about here probably 10 years ago that outlined wheel repair, prep and painting Reatta wheels and my recollection is the suggested paint color was 'sparkle silver' but no manufacturer code was given. Three differenet paint suppliers were mentioned; Spies-Hecker, PPG and can't rememebr the third off hand. The needed aluminum prep products and primers were mentioned in the TSB, and that's about as specific as it got. Honestly, you are best off getting all four wheel
  2. Agreed with Padgett on this, igntion problems will generally not set codes, particularly ICM malfunctions which are often thermal in nature (only evident when the ICM is hot). Have had this issue myself with both the Magnavox and Delco ignition setups so can vouch for how frustrating it can be to troubleshoot. About the only way to prove it out is to swap on known good parts. Coils can be tested for resistance and such, but the OBD system on the Reatta doesn't catch most ignition faults.
  3. I can't add much new that hasn't already been said here, but this comes down to a judgement call. Do you want a nice Reatta, or do you want THIS Reatta to be nice. The former you can do for probably $7000-9000 as the market sits now, with the understanding it is still a ~30 year old car and no matter how nice will end up needing things repaired and replaced as you go unless the previous owner was obsessive in their maintenance and upkeep routine. If you are breaking on the side of sentimentality and want to restore the one you have, it will be much more costly whether you do it al
  4. May I point out that the LED headlights significantly reduce the total load on the switch. Stock Guide brand halogen low beams were 35w each, most modern halogen lowbeams are 50w each, with high beams being higher still obviously. That said, going to LED headlights takes a lot of the heavy load from the headlight switch to begin with, leaving only the taillamps, license plate, and front running lights as conventional lighting load. I've used LED 194's for the license lamps, and have fitted amber LED 194's for front running lights on one of mine so far, and reduced the load that muc
  5. The entire vanity mirror assembly can be removed from the visor. Both light lenses and bulbs get removed and there are screws underneath that once backed out will permit removal of the whole assembly. I've not encountered this particular problem on any of mine yet, so will need to dissect a spare visor here to see what may be causing the problem being asked about. I'm guessing there is a snap spring and possibly a plastic tang that holds one or both ends of the spring in place that get broken resulting in the cover getting lazy. Will do some looking and report back.
  6. I figured they were either discontinued already, or on the way out. Get 'em while they're hot, I guess.
  7. I've removed a few successfully by using a pair of dental picks. One to hold the carrier contact in place, a second to gently pry the IC pin and break the solder joint. I've found no good way to unsolder these so far. I have a hot air rework station and couldn't get the solder to melt temp without damaging the carrier assembly. Even with the smallest tip, using a soldering pencil to melt the joints is next to impossible. Good luck.
  8. A couple of notes to add. A failed SES bulb in the cluster WILL cause a QDM fault on all model years, which automatically sets an E026 code as current. Other failures can also set E026, but the first thing to check when that code sets is the SES indicator. If it doesn't light, that is your very first matter to address. It is possible that the ECM failure itself on your 91 Caddy caused the SES to light (basically the ECM self identifying the fact it has had an undefined internal malfunction) although failure of the RAM that holds the codes would also account for the light setting wi
  9. Barney, just FYI. Strattec (F/K/A Briggs and Stratton - lock division) has been the manufacturer/supplier for these parts for years after GM SPO generally stopped dealing with older design lock and key parts directly. As an aside, there are two versions of the shutter assembly. The correct one has the slot offset slightly to one side. There is another version that has the slot (and spring loaded slot cover) dead center. This latter design will fit the Reatta trunk lock, but will not allow proper insertion of the key as the slot on the shutter cap doesn't line up to the keyway in t
  10. Be forewarned with regard to reprogramming that the original EPROM may not always reliably take a new image due to age. We are now finding that some chips past the 25-30 year mark exhibit a tendency to have bytes that simply will not hold data for a new write cycle, even when properly erased (which is required before writing a new ROM image to the chip). Hopefully you will not find that to be the case, but putting it out there as it is becoming a more common problem with legacy hardware like this. Anyway, if you get it re-programmed, will be interesting to see if that corrects the
  11. Ronnie, your "rant' is spot on. The only reason for the apparent popularity of the Facebook group is collective laziness. "Everybody is doing it, I need to be there too", is the prevailing attitutde that permeates almost everything now. Id point and laugh if it weren't so pathetic. Now, I haven't been very active here for a while due to extenuating circumstances, but that fact notwithstanding, I still consider this place to be the defacto standard for Reatta related discourse. With what we now know about facebook pimping the personal data (willingly supplied by the careless masses
  12. OK. Gonna throw in on this. First, the memcal contains two components within the carrier. First is a 27C256 UVEpsom, soldered to the contacts in the carrier. Removal of this IC is difficult and it best, if reporgramming one, to remove the UV block sticker and use a UV eraser chamber and then reprogram. This IC contains all the operating code for the cars engine. The second component is a dual inline package circuit board with some surface mount components on it that serves as backup logic for limp home mode in the even of a EPROM failure. This part stores nothing, and there is no
  13. I have spare vent windows if you still need one. Can message me here.
  14. Daniel, i am in for two sets (or more if supply/demand permits) if you have another batch run. I've done two of my four cars with the bushings you had produced and will need to do the other two at some point, plus would like at least one extra set in reserve in case I break down and buy another car at some point. Really, I'd buy four sets provided you make another batch large enough that no one else gets shorted were I to buy that many. If you decide to do another run and need a deposit pre-production, let me know.
  15. A Reatta hatchback? That's a bit interesting, but I can't say I like the way it changes the flow of the body lines. The green one is pretty close to production appearance, save for the gauges. I do really like the modernized red and black one (oblique rear view).
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