DS_Porter 89 Burgandy

Go to ebay and search for example "1157 led red bulb" Lots of different styles and prices. Generally the more expensive ones are brighter and more dependable. You can fine tune your search with price range, location (USA not China)...

I replaced all the rear light bar bulbs with LED's. It took a lot of trial and error. What you want is a bulb that outputs red light and lots of lumens for the brake/turnsignal filament and of course less bright for the tail light filament. The outer bulbs on the corners also output red light. Unfortunatly they all came from China so I have no part numbers. Buy a few spares if you find some that look good.

For me it has always been either the ignition module or the crankshaft position sensor. In either case it does not post a code. I carry both spares and enough tools to make the swap. Crankshaft position sensor can be a challenge if you are out on the road....... Try the ignition module first.

A wealth of information and wisdom. He helped us all. I shall miss him..

to EmTee's question - Yes if oil pressure drops low enough the Fuel Pump will drop out. Power to the fuel pump when the engine is running is supplied through NO contacts in the oil pressure sending unit. Years ago when I bought my first Reatta it was hard to start but when it finally did start after several seconds of cranking it ran perfectly. Power to the fuel pump runs through NO contacts in the fuel pump relay and separately through NO contacts in the oil pressure sending unit. When starting the engine the ignition is turned on and the ECM turns on the fuel pump for two seconds through the FuelPumpRelay located on the firewall. The fuel rail is pressurized and the engine starts and develops oil pressure. After two seconds the FuelPumpRelay is turned off and power runs through NO contacts in the oil pressure sending unit.

The alignment pin ensures that the crank sensor is in the correct position so that the timing pulse ring does not rub or contact the crankshaft position sensor. Without the pin the adjustment can be tricky. A matchbook thickness on each side of the pulse ring is a good guage.

Most common ignition failures are the crankshaft timing pulse sensor and the ignition control module. Neither one sets a code. I have replaced both more than once over the years.

Dongles and key disks did not slow me down either. That's how I learned AB ladder logic in my spare time. Allen Bradley came out ahead because after we all got educated we standardized our plant to use all AB processors and software

One day back in 1997 I was shopping for a nice dependable Honda for my wife. My attention strayed to the Buick listings and I saw an '89 Reatta that was only a couple miles away. I didn't know much about them at the time. I took a short test drive and I have had one ever since.

Seems that some of you guys are making the headlight issue much more difficult than it needs to be. Search "Headlight shut off/retract repost" That explains my fix which allows the headlights to shutoff and retract normally. The headlight switch benefits from the reduced load of LED's. Any type of bulb that physically fits will work. No need for another harness with a relay.

See "Headlight shut off/retract repost" It explains my workaround for shutting off the headlights and having them retract as they should. New harness is not necessary.

Sounds like a good tip about UV protection. I use Armoral ultrashine on my engine compartment. People say it looks better than brand new. No UV damage under the hood. Too much time on my hands......

I recall when we were climbing up the grade out of Death Valley when the temperature outside was about 110 degrees. I watched nervously as the engine temp climbed to 244. Kept the air conditioning on and the speed at about 25 to 30. Good antifreeze good radiator cap. No boil no leaks no damage. Successful trial by fire. Whew... Yes I believe the pusher fan comes on at a fairly high setpoint. 240?

Just the fact that the an ICM failure is not unusual tells me that thermal paste is a good idea

Dave is correct. Most likely the ignition module. I have had several crank sensor failures but the crank sensor generally works right or fails completely. I suppose it could be intermittent but not likely. Swap parts one at a time starting with the ignition module. Use a little heat transfer paste between the module and the mounting plate. Keep us updated