DS_Porter 89 Burgandy

Members
  • Content Count

    92
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

46 Excellent

About DS_Porter 89 Burgandy

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Kent, Washington
  • Interests:
    Retired industrial maintenance technician. We enjoy road trips in one of the best road trip cars.

Recent Profile Visitors

842 profile views
  1. I always jump in and try to fix something before I read the directions. The car and the service manual have humbled me from time to time and this forum has been a great source of knowledge and a time saver. Thanx for all you do Ronnie
  2. Yes At the top of the firewall in the center you will find the fan speed resistor. If you remove it you will have access to the heat exchanger for the A/C. Over a long period of time it will begin to plug up. You can clean it through this access hole. You can also remove the fan motor for additional access but do the fan speed resistor first to see how bad it is. It is not an easy job but It made a big difference. I was surprised how dirty mine was.
  3. A bad oxygen sensor may cause excessive fuel consumption. possibly an injector sticking open but not a common issue. My '89 runs perfectly with fuel pressure of 46 psi Check it Disconnect the battery overnight to make it "relearn" its fuel programming and IAC settings. Not sure how smart the ECM is or how capable it is re-programming itself. Mass airflow sensor is also part of the fuel calculation. Try disconnecting it Good luck Let us know. Always curious about such problems
  4. Search this part# in this forum and find all my posts on how to adapt the pressure switch to the original plug. Or message me dport44@comcast.net
  5. I put in LED's and the brightness is fantastic but they need special grounding. Read my post on this page
  6. My first Reatta had a bad fuel pump relay. I had to crank it long enough for the oil pressure switch to close which then turned on the fuel pump without the fuel pump relay. Do the fuel pressure tests. Good luck. Let us know what you find.
  7. How about whole grain alcohol?? No, wait..... I better not start that again................
  8. About a year ago I needed to replace a brake pressure switch that was sticking and causing the pump to run continuously. Part # AC Delco 25530882. This switch is available but the original part # with the correct plug/receptacle is not. See my post from Oct 2017 for full explanation. Search the forum for "AC Delco 25530882 pressure switch for Teves ABS systems"
  9. I had leaks from the transmission cooling lines. The flexible rubber sections between the transmission and the long straight tubing sections will begin to leak at the crimped connections. Transmission fluid then runs along the narrow plastic pan on the cross member. New hose and double small worm screw clamps did the job.
  10. Barney's fix/explanation is the best. No substitute for good workmanship and soldering practices. Never need to worry again. The hot air solder butt spices do work if the wires are the right size and the copper is VERY clean.
  11. Yes be careful with all your brittle plastic............. Here's a tip that may help someone in the future. I was bleeding my brakes a couple years ago after flushing the system with fresh fluid (a very important preventative maintenance task I might add). While trying to open the bleed valve on the right front caliper I snapped it off the hex nipple that opens it. Drilling and using an "easy out" was not an option. I unbolted the caliper and held it in position such that the brake fluid hose connection was at the highest position. I then pushed the piston back into its bore which pushes first any air bubbles and then fluid back up to the reservoir. You can use large Channelocks or a C-clamp to retract the piston. I still have a broken bleed valve but no air in the system. Problem solved. Try not to overtighten a bleed valve.
  12. I agree. When I turn the key on with a pressure gauge installed the pressure jumps up to 45 psi and holds without dropping if the engine is not cranked. If the engine is started it drops to about 36 psi running.
  13. I believe fixed vs adjustable refers to the Crank Position Sensor being tightened with the mounting clamp and adjustable as opposed to a fixed style which I have not had the fortune to see. The adjustable type needs to be carefully adjusted so that the gapped rings on the back of the harmonic balancer have clearance inside the CPS coils.
  14. I have replaced a few CPS's without taking off the wheel. It depends on whether or not your harmonic balancer is a tight fit or a slip fit. You should be able to remove it with your hands after the bolt is removed. There is a good trick for loosening the balancer bolt. First remove the vibration dampener and bracket. Put a socket and bar on the balancer bolt and bump the starter. Be sure to unplug the ignition module or the spark plug wires. You may need to put an extension pipe in the socket handle so that it stops against the frame or the floor. Start with the wrench already against the frame or close to it. The engine will turn clockwise which will loosen the bolt.
  15. Looks more and more like a stuck or leaky injector. When the ignition is turned off it takes awhile for the pressure in the fuel manifold to bleed down and if an injector is leaking or stuck open a lot of fuel can enter the manifold and give you the symptoms you describe. You might try this: First put a pressure gauge on the fitting that sticks up out of the plastic engine cover. About 45 psi with key on and engine not running. Note that when the key is turned on the fuel pump runs for two seconds and then shuts off if the engine does not start - for safety reasons but the pressure in the manifold should hold. Pressure drops to about 36 psi running. Lacking a pressure gauge that fits the fuel rail you can try this: Run the car and warm it up. Then shut it off and immediately release the pressure in the fuel rail. Take the cap off the fuel pressure fitting and press the center post in the middle of it. CAUTION Wrap a rag around the fitting to catch the fuel. Take the necessary precautions or take it to a shop. After doing this let it sit awhile or over night. Does it start and run better or differently? Is there a Dr. Injector nearby? That might be the next step. Clean and balance the injectors. One troubleshooting tip I forgot to mention is in diagnostics. You have the ability to shut off each injector one at a time and observe the effect on engine idle. Get into diagnostics and with the engine running scroll to the Override section. I believe the keystrokes are explained in the Reatta Quick Reference Guide. This can reveal the problem as well as which injector is suspect. One more thing to check could be the fuel pressure regulator vacuum diaphragm on the fuel rail. Could be leaking internally. Good luck. Let us know what you find.