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DS_Porter 89 Burgandy

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  1. Dave is correct. Most likely the ignition module. I have had several crank sensor failures but the crank sensor generally works right or fails completely. I suppose it could be intermittent but not likely. Swap parts one at a time starting with the ignition module. Use a little heat transfer paste between the module and the mounting plate. Keep us updated
  2. I had my center armrest/console cover redone a couple years back. It is vinyl and I had to buy a whole yard. It matched perfectly and I got to keep the excess material. $100 was fair I thought. I believe the door panel sections are also vinyl
  3. Still looking to upgrade or improve your Reatta radio? I have owned two '89 Reattas and I still have one. When I finally move on to something newer I will miss the sound system. The radio / sound system puts out excellent sound quality even at high volumes. It does however have a couple weaknesses. The speakers will eventually buzz and blow out if you play it loud like I sometimes do. I have replaced my two door speakers and two rear speakers with quality replacements of the same size and they sound great with enough bass for me. The other issue is the capacitors in the radio. They break down after about ten or more years and you begin to hear some static or crackling. Rebuilt units are available and can be tracked down for a reasonable price. I have a unit on my bench waiting for a rebuild. The touch screen interface was and still is a marvelous piece of engineering with the graphic equalizer and the balance controls for the radio as well as everything else. In case you didn't know it has onboard diagnostics and can display and clear fault codes and engine parameters. The radio is located in the center console to the rear of the gear shift beneath the ashtray. The only thing I have added is a small MP3 player that broadcasts on an FM frequency and plays on the radio. Sounds great. You'll find the bass is pretty good with fresh speakers and medium volume but if you want more you could put a boost amp in the trunk to blast your eardrums and blur your vision. Its a great car. Yup. Smooth is a Buick. dport44@comcast.net
  4. Dielectric grease does not conduct electricity. It does not necessarily improve heat transfer. Thermal past improves the transfer and therefore the improved removal of heat between two metallic surfaces. ICM's fail often enough that we want to do all we can to improve the longevity
  5. Above lockup speed it could be what you feel when you release the throttle and the drivetrain torque switches from engine driving the wheels to wheels driving the engine. Torqueconverter is locked and it feels the same as any stick shift car in high gear. Or it could be what you feel when the converter first locks up. All normal stuff and it it should still be fairly smooth and non jarring.
  6. FYI The vacuum release switch is up under the dash and next to the brake light switch. It is operated by the brake pedal arm. Sounds like you have that ruled out but you might want to make sure the hose is connected. When I purchased my Reatta it was disconnected
  7. Before I swapped out my radio for a reconditioned unit with new capacitors I could "hear" all the static sources in the car and they were mostly from motors The brushes in DC motors arc slightly and this static is throughout the plus side of the 12v supply. Radios need good filter caps to smooth and remove it so that it doesn't pass through the radio amp and out through the speakers. So yes I believe it is the antenna motor. A capacitor can be placed across the motor connection to reduce the noise. Trial and error to determine the value of the capacitor. A sharper tech than I might know what value works best.....
  8. As a matter of preventative maintenance the only way to check is to remove the serpentine belt and spin it by hand. "Feel it" Listen carefully. I had one fail unexpectedly and it started to make noise and I hoped I could make it home but no such luck. The belt began to smoke. End of trip. Tow truck. Brings to mind an A J Foyt quote - " a six dollar ball bearing in the gearbox failed" He was on his way to winning the Indy 500 I continue to make educated guesses about the longevity of various car parts. Get out there and enjoy the drive. Life is a crapshoot.... I should have been killed by now.......blah blah
  9. Most common alternator failure is the drive end bearing. Occasional replacement before it fails is good policy. Easy to do and it can prevent a tow truck incident. I learned the hard way. Also check the brushes. Easy and cheap stuff. Kits are available. Check model number carefully
  10. I just had the same problem about a month ago. Turned out to be the fan control circuit board. Its mounted at top center of firewall with two screws and two connectors. Readily available from Rock Auto and others. Its a solid state device that you cannot test or repair. While you are in there look at the heat exchanger and remove any debris for better air flow.
  11. Looks like a CRT problem but the touch screen is an overlay grid and each touch pad is a programmed location. I suspect the touch functions still work right? The CRT electron beam is swept horizontally rapidly until it reaches the bottom and then jumps to the top to begin another vertical sweep. Looks like a DC component of the vertical sweep out put has failed. Most likely repairable if a schematic was available. A good TV tech could fix it....... oh just find a spare. DP
  12. Thanx for the successful report. Always happy to share what I know. Pay it forward
  13. Looking at my diagram in the manual it is: 5 wire connector C1 terminal C the yellow wire Cut the yellow wire two or three inches from the connector to give yourself enough wire to work with. Cap the wire that goes into the harness bundle. Connect a wire to the yellow wire C from the terminal plug (about 16 gauge) Run that wire to a good ground. That will ground the "retract" circuit allowing the headlight doors to close with full current just as the old incandescent filaments did. I believe they were wired that way as a means of notifying the driver that a filament was burned out. As it has been stated before if we can't tell if a headlight is out we should probably stop driving.... Let me know how it turns out Dean Porter
  14. Whack it a few times with a soft hammer. It should pop back out to its original position. I got bumped in a parking lot about 15 years ago. I decided I could live with the damage because it was not too noticeable. About a month later I glanced at it and I could not see the damage. After looking closely I realized it was spring loaded and it had popped back into position.
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