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DS_Porter 89 Burgandy

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About DS_Porter 89 Burgandy

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Kent, Washington
  • Interests:
    Retired industrial maintenance technician. We enjoy road trips in one of the best road trip cars.

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  1. I just had the same problem about a month ago. Turned out to be the fan control circuit board. Its mounted at top center of firewall with two screws and two connectors. Readily available from Rock Auto and others. Its a solid state device that you cannot test or repair. While you are in there look at the heat exchanger and remove any debris for better air flow.
  2. Looks like a CRT problem but the touch screen is an overlay grid and each touch pad is a programmed location. I suspect the touch functions still work right? The CRT electron beam is swept horizontally rapidly until it reaches the bottom and then jumps to the top to begin another vertical sweep. Looks like a DC component of the vertical sweep out put has failed. Most likely repairable if a schematic was available. A good TV tech could fix it....... oh just find a spare. DP
  3. Thanx for the successful report. Always happy to share what I know. Pay it forward
  4. Looking at my diagram in the manual it is: 5 wire connector C1 terminal C the yellow wire Cut the yellow wire two or three inches from the connector to give yourself enough wire to work with. Cap the wire that goes into the harness bundle. Connect a wire to the yellow wire C from the terminal plug (about 16 gauge) Run that wire to a good ground. That will ground the "retract" circuit allowing the headlight doors to close with full current just as the old incandescent filaments did. I believe they were wired that way as a means of noti
  5. Whack it a few times with a soft hammer. It should pop back out to its original position. I got bumped in a parking lot about 15 years ago. I decided I could live with the damage because it was not too noticeable. About a month later I glanced at it and I could not see the damage. After looking closely I realized it was spring loaded and it had popped back into position.
  6. New power module installed. All is well. Thanx guys. It is worth mentioning that removing the blower motor power module is the only way to inspect or gain access to the heat exchanger which can slowly clog up over the years. It makes a difference to clean it out if it is dirty
  7. A couple rears ago I was called upon to please help / diagnose / fix my first Reatta which I have passed on to my stepson. I replaced the Ignition Module twice and the CPS - crankshaft position sensor - also twice before finally getting a combination that has been working for a couple years. It is always a frustrating and time consuming process because the new parts usually work initially but later fail due to heat and time. No codes are set with these parts either
  8. Good tip Ronnie thanx. I was thinking that the blower module was a simple high wattage resistor but it is a solid state device which hopefully is my problem. New part is on order. I'll update this in a few days :)
  9. Anyone ever had this problem? I shut the car off and pull the key and the heater/AC fan continues to run. I have pulled all relays and/or fuses in the center console and the under hood relay center and it still runs. The manual shows a power module and the heat/AC solid state control units as the likely suspects. When I unplug the battery I hear a relay clicking from under the dash and it starts back up again. Hmmm.......
  10. Good idea to pull the fuse. Here is a simple latching relay circuit. Worst thing is a broken window and ignition switch damage. Add an audible alarm that explains that you are now locked inside and help is on the way.............. Just keep good insurance up to date.
  11. After reading Dave's comment about living on the edge I was thinking about anti theft measures. About fifteen years ago my wife's '95 Honda Accord was stolen. Twice in fact. We got a "club" steering wheel lock and solved the problem. For a long time I considered a hidden fuel pump switch but I tend to procrastinate and I never got around to it. Never seriously considered it for the Reatta because its so rare and low on the theft popularity list. Newer vehicles are getting harder to steal but here is an enhancement to the fuel pump switch idea that eliminates the hidden switch.
  12. On the edge yea that's me
  13. We also have a 2014 Honda CRV that is faily good except for a pesky evap system fault. The canister and valves are underneath under a cover Grrrr.....
  14. I have converted both front and rear bulbs to all LED's. It took a lot of trial and error and I wish I could report part numbers but they all came from Chinamart so they have poor standards with little documentation. If you choose LED's use bulbs of the color you want to see. For the rear I used dual element RED LED's because white ones appear too washed out with not enough color. Choose a fairly high wattage so that the stop bulbs are bright enough. I had to put a resistor on the tail light elements to dim them somewhat more in order to provide the desired lower level of brightness. The 194 b
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