DS_Porter 89 Burgandy

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About DS_Porter 89 Burgandy

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Kent, Washington
  • Interests:
    Retired industrial maintenance technician. We enjoy road trips in one of the best road trip cars.

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  1. Its all about CLEAN If the throttle body is clean, if the Idle Air Control (AIC) is clean and the injectors have been cleaned and balanced by a pro like Doctor Injector then it will run and idle so smooth that you might need to check the tach
  2. When I bought my '89 it only had 24K miles on it. Very nice except the cruise control did not work. The brake pedal has a vacuum switch which releases the vacuum and causes the cruise to quickly drop out when the brake is applied. Check that. Hardest part is getting your eyes and hands on it
  3. When I bought my '89 it only had 24K miles on it. Very nice except the cruise control did not work. The brake pedal has a vacuum switch which releases the vacuum and causes the cruise to quickly drop out when the brake is applied. Check that. Hardest part is getting your eyes and hands on it.
  4. When I converted to LED headlights I wanted to understand and solve the problem of the lights not retracting because I was looking to benefit from the reduced stress on the headlight switch. It seemed like adding a relay harness was redundant although it is still the best fix to reduce stress on the switch regardless of which headlight type is selected. When I selected the LED headlights to install it was more than two years ago and direct replacement rectangular lamps were not readily available. I settled for a pair that is not yet DOT certified. They have three rows of four large bright LED's. Six turned on for low beam and all twelve for high beam. Way brighter than the best stock halogen or regular incandescent. The problem however was the low beam pattern was the same as the high. I was getting a lot of drivers flashing me due to the low beam wide pattern. So I ended up partially blocking the six low beam LED's with a carefully cut piece of electrical tape. Most all the light above horizontal is blocked. No more drivers flashing me and the pattern is still plenty bright. I think my high beams are the brightest on the road. I leave my fog light switch on at all times for general safety and also because it looks sharp with the front and rear parking lights lit up. All are LED;s and it took a lot of trial and error to find the best brightness and color. I would like to share part numbers but they all came from chinamart which is all just a crapshoot. And now I am hoping I never have to buy anything from china regardless of any perceived benefit......I hope they .... oh I can't say that
  5. I re-posted this on March 20 but I will insert it here because it is directly relevant to this post... See page 8A-102-0 in the '89 FSM On the Headlight Control Module connector C1 terminal C I cut the wire and capped the wire leading away from the HCM connector. I connected a 16ga wire to the severed wire C coming out of the plug and I ran that wire to a good ground. The LED bulbs I chose are much brighter than any incandescent and well worth this modification. Any type bulb can be installed and they will retract just fine.
  6. When I converted to LED headlights I wanted to understand and solve the problem of the lights not retracting because I was looking to benefit from the reduced stress on the headlight switch. It seemed like adding a relay harness was redundant although it is still the best fix to reduce stress on the switch regardless of which headlight type is selected. When I selected the LED headlights to install it was more than two years ago and direct replacement rectangular lamps were not readily available. I settled for a pair that is not yet DOT certified. They have three rows of four large bright LED's. Six turned on for low beam and all twelve for high beam. Way brighter than the best stock halogen or regular incandescent. The problem however was the low beam pattern was the same as the high. I was getting a lot of drivers flashing me due to the low beam wide pattern. So I ended up partially blocking the six low beam LED's with a carefully cut piece of electrical tape. Most all the light above horizontal is blocked. No more drivers flashing me and the pattern is still plenty bright. I think my high beams are the brightest on the road. I leave my fog light switch on at all times for general safety and also because it looks sharp with the front and rear parking lights lit up. All are LED;s and it took a lot of trial and error to find the best brightness and color. I would like to share part numbers but they all came from chinamart which is all just a crapshoot. And now I am hoping I never have to buy anything from china regardless of any perceived benefit......I hope they .... oh I can't say that.
  7. I am re-posting my fix for the headlight shutoff issue posted Jan 3 2018. Originally the grounding was run through the low beam filament. If the headlights are changed to LED's the resistance is too high and they will not retract. Here is my previous post explaining the fix..... See page 8A-102-0 in the '89 FSM On the Headlight Control Module connector C1 terminal C I cut the wire and capped the wire leading away from the HCM connector. I connected a 16ga wire to the severed wire C coming out of the plug and I ran that wire to a good ground. The LED bulbs I chose are much brighter than any incandescent and well worth this modification. Any type bulb can be installed and they will retract just fine.
  8. I always jump in and try to fix something before I read the directions. The car and the service manual have humbled me from time to time and this forum has been a great source of knowledge and a time saver. Thanx for all you do Ronnie
  9. Yes At the top of the firewall in the center you will find the fan speed resistor. If you remove it you will have access to the heat exchanger for the A/C. Over a long period of time it will begin to plug up. You can clean it through this access hole. You can also remove the fan motor for additional access but do the fan speed resistor first to see how bad it is. It is not an easy job but It made a big difference. I was surprised how dirty mine was.
  10. A bad oxygen sensor may cause excessive fuel consumption. possibly an injector sticking open but not a common issue. My '89 runs perfectly with fuel pressure of 46 psi Check it Disconnect the battery overnight to make it "relearn" its fuel programming and IAC settings. Not sure how smart the ECM is or how capable it is re-programming itself. Mass airflow sensor is also part of the fuel calculation. Try disconnecting it Good luck Let us know. Always curious about such problems
  11. Search this part# in this forum and find all my posts on how to adapt the pressure switch to the original plug. Or message me dport44@comcast.net
  12. I put in LED's and the brightness is fantastic but they need special grounding. Read my post on this page
  13. My first Reatta had a bad fuel pump relay. I had to crank it long enough for the oil pressure switch to close which then turned on the fuel pump without the fuel pump relay. Do the fuel pressure tests. Good luck. Let us know what you find.
  14. How about whole grain alcohol?? No, wait..... I better not start that again................
  15. About a year ago I needed to replace a brake pressure switch that was sticking and causing the pump to run continuously. Part # AC Delco 25530882. This switch is available but the original part # with the correct plug/receptacle is not. See my post from Oct 2017 for full explanation. Search the forum for "AC Delco 25530882 pressure switch for Teves ABS systems"