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ChrisWhewell last won the day on September 22 2016

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About ChrisWhewell

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  • Birthday 10/16/1960

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    Georgetown, Texas

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  1. I didn't read the others' replies above, sorry if this is redundant, but wasn't there a service bulletin put out on this ? I think I posted on it once, probably within my last 20 posts, I've been relatively inactive on the boards lately.
  2. I'm lucky, I found a 99 with only 40k on it, basically in mint condition ! #0873. Previously I drove a '98 for 140k miles and a '97 for 120k miles, so I'm up to speed on maintenance aspects. Would enjoy reading about the Silver Arrow last 200, but as with the others, don't have or want a facebook account.
  3. Maybe it melts everything. I'm pondering maybe that halogen lamp, but not so close. Then, use a magnifying glass to hit on every solder connection individually. I wish I could find a reliable ATYH memcal and just pop it in, this is turning into a long project
  5. One answer is to obtain a male and female socket that matches the memcal, then, add wire between them so you effectively have an extension cord. plug the male into the ecm and mount in stock position. The female socket gets put into its own small enclosure, which can be remotely located at any desired place, like in the glovebox would be great. Then, changing memcal would be a one-minute operation. For removing eeprom from memcal, I'm thinking of a tiny flat copper bar that can contact all the pins on one side, simultaneously. Solder sucker is good, but I've also used solder blower, i.e., my compressed air nozzle. Heat the solder to melting, then pffft, blow it into oblivion. Mask off the SMT chip, and don't breathe the vapors. Otherwise, its the Padgett snip method.
  6. Thank you. Yes, the age is a factor, I should probably get a new chip. , the original one probably failed due to age. Once I think about it for a while, I'll come up with a neat way to get the old chip un-soldered, and put one of those aftermarket ZIF boards in. At least the car is driveable, and its going to start to get cooler outside, so not having AC won't be as much of a concern. Thanks again.
  7. Thanks, yes its 1990. I replaced the ECM two weeks ago. It sounds like I need to have the 27C256 reprogrammed
  8. Thanks. I retrieved the file. thanks thanks thanks !! I'm calling the chip that is removeable, the EEPROM, and the other one that's not removeable, the smaller chip. Moates has a board one can removed the EEPROM from the memcal and solder his board in, which makes swapping EEPROMS easy. Maybe I have my terminology confused. I'm thinking of the two "chips" that make up the memcal, one is more removable than the other, and the removable one is what gets programmed, and the other one doesnt.
  9. Thanks. That's the thing.... if the problem with the knock signal processing is on the small chip, then reprogramming the EEPROM won't fix that. I've already had the ECM in and out of this car 5 times, I am a professional ECM swapper at this stage, a position which I hope I can fire myself from soon. :)
  10. Thank you. I'm beginning to wonder two things: 1) where on memcal is the diagnostics info for Reatta stored, is it on the eeprom, or the other chip ? 2) Same for the knock retard circuit, is that in the eeprom or the other chip ? Question 3, what I call the "other chip" that's not the eeprom, are they the same for all memcals ? What I'm suggesting is, a fourth question of whether re-programming the eeprom will solve my retarded knock retard problem i was having with the stock memcal. Knock counts were 5000-9999. If I knew absolutely that an eeprom re-program job would solve that, I'd do it in a minute, regrettably, I lack knowledge about the "other chip" in the memcal...
  11. UPdate. I put the NOS memcal from a Lesabre with an LN3, into the Reatta. Started right up, idle is very smooth, smoother than with stock Reatta memcal. But... rpm gauge and eng. temp. gauge do not work. Also, if you remember my posts from 2 years back, when the rpm gauge isn't working, the AC won't kick on, so I have no AC. Also, in diagnostic mode, the engine data won't display. So, I took it for a spin. It definitely has noticeably much much more power. Therefore, it appears from seat of the pants that the knock retard of -17 degrees I was experiencing with the stock memcal, has been remedied by the new memcal. Wow, what a difference. Too bad no AC. Here is a riddle: "What's rarer than a 1990 Reatta ?" Answer: a good memcal for a 1990 Reatta. I found this interesting entry, concerning hard starts and memcals, unrelated to my issue but apparently there were a lot of memcals with problems.
  12. I blend, 20w-50 motorcycle oil with straight 20 weight. The motorcycle oil still has high zinc levels that my Reatta was designed for, I think api spec SG was the perf level in 1990
  13. Yes its happened on my Reatta but its only intermittent and no code stored or tripped. One thing in my years of fixing cars, I've never once heard of a "service engine soon" light bulb ever burning out. Those suckers are invincible, I wish my tail lights were of such superior quality.
  14. It would be nice if it makes the TC lock up later. All I want in the world right now is to feel the raw power of the LN3 unleashed, when the timing isn't retarded 17 degrees !! I promise to not hotrod around. lol
  15. It should be a good learning experience anyhow. I saw on some camaro and pontiac forums, similar topic discussed. It was alleged that the same memcal was used on vehicles having differing axle ratios, and was asserted that it makes no difference. Allegedly the chip I'm getting fits the following: 1989-1991 Electra / LeSabre; 1990 Olds 98; 1989, 1991 Olds 88; 1989-1991 Bonneville. All with the LN3. Supposedly it'll be here Friday next.