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ChrisWhewell last won the day on September 22 2016

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About ChrisWhewell

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  • Birthday 10/16/1960

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    Georgetown, Texas

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  1. If adding heet provided immediate positive results, that tells you something. Symptoms described are of water in the gas. Given the ethanol in the fuel these days, gasoline is permitted to have about 0.4% water in it, a great way for petrochem companies to make extra profit, by selling water, imagine 0.4% of the daily dollar amount of gasoline sold in the usa, being water, a major boon for oil companies. When it is at max water spec such as from condensation during transport or storage at the gas station, any further water such as from temperature changes and attendant condensation in your tank will cause beads of h2o to form at the lowest point in the tank, the water being denser than the remainder of the fuel. I had the same issue with my Deere tractor last week, stopped it on a hill and went to start it and... no dice. had to move it to level ground and it fired right up. heet comes in two versions , one is methanol, the other is isopropanol. The latter is better in fuel injected vehicles.
  2. There I was a couple weeks ago boasting about how my AC kept its charge a couple years, and then, whammo, no more AC. I went out under the hood at night with my uv flashlight, and the high pressure switch just above and to the left of the blower motor is oozing dye. Had the same thing happen on a corvette once, I guess the sensors lose their seal. Delco part number appears to be 15-2490. O'really auto parts claims they can't even get it. I guess I need to hunt a little
  3. JB welded the magnet a couple years ago. Its likely a loose elec. connection, I'll go jiggle the wires. Meantime, for fun, because everybody knows I'm big into fun, I calculate the centripetal force on the cam magnet at crank speed of 4,000 r.p.m. as being 175 Newtons, assuming a 4 gram magnet weight and a radius of rotation of 10 centimeters. Fun !! That's a lot of Newtons.
  4. About once a week I get an 041 for a few minutes, then it stops. hmmm. Maybe I'll try a new sensor.
  5. will do, its been long time no see ! Finally my knock retard isn't pegged at -17 degrees, I took a ride out to Cameron yesterday and it was a pleasure being able to maintain speed, going uphill with the AC on for the first time since I owned the car. MPG = 27 and that's about 75% highway driving, 25% city. But, I'm running Multec injectors from a 93 corvette. Other than that its bone stock but with a K&N air filter. I had that knock retard crap, changed the knock sensor, ran thru the troubleshooting flowchart and it said "replace memcal". So I got a memcal from an 89 Century and ran it for about six months but the kicker was that the AC would not work with the Century memcal. Last week I put back in the original memcal, and now everything is working perfectly. Go figure.... Best I can tell it must have been a loose connection between the memcal and the ECM socket. It is sooooo nice to finally have the car running well, and it has a little pep to it. On the glovebox latch, its not fixable, the plastic that actuates the mechanism cracked due to age. The plastic in my car is apparently brittle, I had other interior plastic just crack, like when you just touch it.
  6. ugh, my glovebox latch is quite broken. Am wondering if I can take one from the rear storage compartments, looks the same, except the mounting screws ??
  7. Thanks ! We've been having an typically wet spring, and atypically windy month of May. Too bad they have so much rain in the corn belt, that hurts. So you got some of that Al Gore warming in Mass. ? Our month of May has been atypically cooler also. I visited Mass. a couple times stayed out by Chatham Pier for about a week once.
  8. I had some memcal problems, where the knock retard was retarding -17 degrees. The KR is not on the chip in the memcal that you can program, its on one of the other chips. So, the last half-year I was driving using a memcal from a different LN3 car. But, using that memcal doesn't permit the air conditioning to work ! So, yesterday I put the original faulty memcal back in, just so I can have a car with AC. Well, I put in the orig memcal and voila ! The knock retard wasn't happening any longer. Yee haw ! On top of that, the AC is working great since not being used since last September. So, I washed the car by hand, put the glovebox and knee bolster back in, and went and got a state inspection. She's all ready for summer !!
  9. I didn't read the others' replies above, sorry if this is redundant, but wasn't there a service bulletin put out on this ? I think I posted on it once, probably within my last 20 posts, I've been relatively inactive on the boards lately.
  10. I'm lucky, I found a 99 with only 40k on it, basically in mint condition ! #0873. Previously I drove a '98 for 140k miles and a '97 for 120k miles, so I'm up to speed on maintenance aspects. Would enjoy reading about the Silver Arrow last 200, but as with the others, don't have or want a facebook account.
  11. Maybe it melts everything. I'm pondering maybe that halogen lamp, but not so close. Then, use a magnifying glass to hit on every solder connection individually. I wish I could find a reliable ATYH memcal and just pop it in, this is turning into a long project
  13. One answer is to obtain a male and female socket that matches the memcal, then, add wire between them so you effectively have an extension cord. plug the male into the ecm and mount in stock position. The female socket gets put into its own small enclosure, which can be remotely located at any desired place, like in the glovebox would be great. Then, changing memcal would be a one-minute operation. For removing eeprom from memcal, I'm thinking of a tiny flat copper bar that can contact all the pins on one side, simultaneously. Solder sucker is good, but I've also used solder blower, i.e., my compressed air nozzle. Heat the solder to melting, then pffft, blow it into oblivion. Mask off the SMT chip, and don't breathe the vapors. Otherwise, its the Padgett snip method.
  14. Thank you. Yes, the age is a factor, I should probably get a new chip. , the original one probably failed due to age. Once I think about it for a while, I'll come up with a neat way to get the old chip un-soldered, and put one of those aftermarket ZIF boards in. At least the car is driveable, and its going to start to get cooler outside, so not having AC won't be as much of a concern. Thanks again.
  15. Thanks, yes its 1990. I replaced the ECM two weeks ago. It sounds like I need to have the 27C256 reprogrammed