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ChrisWhewell last won the day on September 22 2016

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About ChrisWhewell

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  • Birthday 10/16/1960

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    Burnet, Texas

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  1. Hey, look at my first posted messages, one was an offer to buy a CD from you having all the files. One issue with selling CD's or DVD's whatever, might be copyrights of the contributors. Lucky, the contributors were never out for money, just to help others. But still, get them to sign off on copyright. I ponder someday something breaks on my Reatta, and the website is gone or my computer is broke, etc. What is the value to me of having DVD of all the ROJ contents ?? It means I don't have to re-learn tons of stuff. I'd go $100 to have ROJ on DVD. That's what I think of it.
  2. If there was a contest for the most electrical problems, I'd enter mine. With AC on, driving down the road, the car becomes haunted and the AC switches from bi-level, to floor-only, then to discharging the cold air somewhere up inside the dash. Minutes later, the original bi-level delivery returns, all on its own. I've already changed the ECM b/c of a fault in it that didn't permit the rpm gauge to work. I still have this intermittent 041. Yesterday while driving the dash went black and the infamous ERROR message appeared. Turning off the engine and re-starting it, cures it. My next try will be to change the climate control box, when I find the spare time.
  3. When I let a shop do an alignment on my front end, I brought along the pertinent pages from the FSM for the tech. These cars aren't difficult but the FSM needs to be followed, so take them a copy !
  4. SOLVED ! Those who suggested an undercharge were right. As I slowly charged the system, a point was reached where the compressor just kicked on, and didn't shut off. So it was down quite a bit on the cold juice. I was initially hesitant to add more, b/c its summer and if it was overcharged, the last thing I'd want is a repair job in this heat. Thanks for yalls answers.
  5. The gauge pressures are cycling normally, I wrote it wrong in my message.
  6. Thanks, I'll try to bleeding some off. yeah, one has to have gauges for this activity - one of the best pawn shop buys I scored a nice heavy brass set of analog gauges, for just 20 bucks. Everybody in the trade went digital, so the analog version are cheap and plentiful, for now. I had a buddy once who overcharged a system in a fox body mustang, it caused the compressor to permanently lock up.
  7. agree. But low side should never really go above 70 using 134a. Therefore, adding more refrigerant might cause low side to go even higher than 80, which would be even worse. I might have a restriction somewhere in the lines, I'm thinking.
  8. yep, I'm inclined to add more refrigerant, but the low side hitting 80psi might suggest orifice tube clog , maybe. I use gauges hooked to high and low side.
  9. On my 90, its cycling too often. Can't get constant gauge readings. When system cycles on, both high and low pressures rise, then both pressures simultaneously drop when system cycles off 10 seconds later. The lowest the low side gets to is 30, but it rises to like 80, which seems a tad bit too high. The highest the high side gets to is 190. I'm thinking to add more refrigerant. Or maybe I need to inspect the orifice tube ?
  10. Wow, those are the good ones. Thanks for the photo
  11. When you go by over the a accumulator with compressor running, one of the pipes should be cold. On a good system, get a feel by the hand of about how cold it is. Then, if your system is running, feel that tube and make a judgement. Bottom line, does it keep you cool when stopped at traffic lights ? It looks like Barney's message above is right on too.
  12. Two months back, I had an AC failure, the culprit was a sensor that had evident refrigeration lubricant oozing from it. Same happened on a vette I had. So, I came to internet forums, etc. to determine the correct replacement. In the diagram from the FSM the part is called "A/C high side temperature sensor". When I asked for that at FLAPS, we burned 15 minutes looking for it in the system, to no avail. Also, I saw a purported part number for it on some of these forums, which was the wrong part number. My car's a 90. When I read the part number from the old part to the FLAPS dude, he instantly crossed it with a current part, which I installed in 15 seconds, and the AC kicked right back on. It attaches to a Schrader that's welded on the line, perfect. The part number on the original GM part reads 1631399. Maybe this will save someone some frustration, knowing this. !! Woo hoo, nice and cool in these 100 degree days is sweet, I was sweatin bullets the past couple weeks.
  13. Oh, cool ! But I have to admit based on the title of the posting, I was expecting babes in bikini's posing with a Reatta.... hahaha
  14. If adding heet provided immediate positive results, that tells you something. Symptoms described are of water in the gas. Given the ethanol in the fuel these days, gasoline is permitted to have about 0.4% water in it, a great way for petrochem companies to make extra profit, by selling water, imagine 0.4% of the daily dollar amount of gasoline sold in the usa, being water, a major boon for oil companies. When it is at max water spec such as from condensation during transport or storage at the gas station, any further water such as from temperature changes and attendant condensation in your tank will cause beads of h2o to form at the lowest point in the tank, the water being denser than the remainder of the fuel. I had the same issue with my Deere tractor last week, stopped it on a hill and went to start it and... no dice. had to move it to level ground and it fired right up. heet comes in two versions , one is methanol, the other is isopropanol. The latter is better in fuel injected vehicles.