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Bushwack

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  1. The Reatta listed belongs to (almost) everyone's favorite multi-Reattas owner, Steve S. I spoke to him recently (he's doing well and as ornery as ever 😀). I know it's difficult for him to have listed the car as each are like his children. But as the market is as hot as ever,... At least we know the buyer will get a meticulously well-cared for car.
  2. A new ECM fixed the problem (after replacing the IAC a couple times and fixing a vacuum leak). Thinking back, a few years ago I had another '90 Reatta with the same problem. I lived with it for a while (after various failed troubleshooting efforts) and the car eventually fixed itself.
  3. Five weeks ago I purchased four Kumho Solus TA11 All-Season Tires from Amazon at $88.10/each (now priced at $95.20). They were shipped free from North Carolina to Los Angeles. Tirerack had them priced at $95.00/each (now $102.00). Not sure what possessed me to think of Amazon for tires. But I purchased them using my Discovercard, which gets me 5% cash back to use for a future Amazon purchase (I'm grandfathered at 5% - I think most others using their Discovercard get either 1 or 2% cash back).
  4. Excuse my ignorance, but would the higher setting make for a higher idle? If the setting was .33 - .38, would the idle be lower then the recommended .38 - .42?
  5. Both horn buttons on my '90 coupe work intermittently - maybe twice out of ten attempts. I'll get a short toot from either button. I know the horn works as I've accidentally set-off the factory alarm. After making sure the fuse is OK, any suggestions/advice where I should first start troubleshooting (before taking off the steering wheel)? Thanks.
  6. For what they are, the SIlverstars work fine. But when your daily driver has LEDs, there is a huge difference.
  7. I decided to install Silverstars for two reasons: I didn't find the answer (just not in this forum) that I was looking for regarding LEDs. And, as I consider the Reatta a second car, I'll rarely drive it in the evenings. The Silverstars were $20/each and installed in 30 minutes. LEDs probably a bit more costly and more time consuming to install.
  8. Thanks Dave - appreciate it.. Having read the thread (I hope everyone with cataracts has since taken advantage of medical science), my take-away is there is no plug-n-play option for LEDs for a 1990 Reatta. When it comes to electricity, my limits are turning on and off a wall switch. If a harness or relay is involved to get LEDs, I'm going with the tried-and-true SIlverStars
  9. Can the OEM headlights be replaced with LEDs (plug-n-play scenario)? I've been doing some research and have read that it's possible, but there's an issue with the headlight covers (either they will not open or close). I also read that an additional relay needs to be installed for LEDs. And lastly, I read with today's technology, it is a simple installation. Of course, nobody provided documentation or which LEDs are being referenced.
  10. UPDATE: Problem resolved. After lots of troubleshooting and at last resort, the ECM was replaced (thanks Jim Finn), moving the old PROM to the 'new' unit, and life is good. Car idles at normal temperature when in gear slightly higher then I'd like (800 RPM, I think normal is 650-750). Nevertheless the car now drives as well as any Reatta I've owned. In retrospect, maybe I didn't need to have the IAC or TPS replaced. But assuming they were original and not too expensive to replace,... Thanks everyone for your input
  11. So not to keep anyone hanging, I dropped the car off at a mechanic who works on cars pre-1996. If there is something electrical happening, it's beyond my expertise. I did send him some of the comments/suggestions everyone made. I hope to have more information by the end of next week. Thanks.
  12. Thanks folks for the suggestions. Curious...would any of these be the power relay - https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/buick,1990,reatta,3.8l+231cid+v6,1019911,electrical-switch+&+relay,accessory+power+relay,2944
  13. I drove the '90 Reatta over 40 miles yesterday. This morning, the car would not start. I was going to adjust the headlights this morning. When I opened the hood, I heard ticking noises (the car was cold). I went and tried to start the car,...dead. I recharged the battery and took the car to the mechanic. He said the problem is the IAC. He replaced the original IAC a few days earlier. The next day at his shop, he was going to replace an oil pan gasket (he had the car on a lift from the day before). He popped the hood and heard ticking. Went to turn on the ignition,...dead battery. He determined it was the IAC ticking and draining the battery. He replaced the new IAC with another new IAC. I took the car home last Friday afternoon, didn't drive it until Saturday night. Drove it again on Sunday. This morning as I popped the hood to adjust the headlights, I heard the ticking and...dead battery. Mechanic thinks I should replace the ECM (of which I have one en route) for this and other reasons surrounding idling issues (isn't that the job of the IAC?). He feels the ECM is not communicating with the IAC. Question is...could there be a short somewhere and if so, how do you determine where it is? Installing another ECM, if there is a short, solves nothing. There are no vacuum leaks and the TPS has been replaced. EGR is fine. There are no error codes. This has become frustrating in what I feel isn't a difficult problem to solve (I wish I was mechanically inclined). Any suggestions are appreciated.
  14. Appreciate it!! I saw those bulbs but I question why the tip of the dome is gray. I did find these (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BLNTGK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A5H1OAYE8AOI9&psc=1), which are the same as this (https://drivcat.com/overlays/part-detail.aspx?brand=WL&PartNumber=BP890&pt=Turn Signal Light Bulb&lu=1990 BUICK REATTA&vin=) and appear OEM (originally from Wagner). I purchase a few and will install them this week.
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