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Barney Eaton

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Barney Eaton last won the day on August 2 2018

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  1. There are several relays in the relay box near the air cleaner. Mark them is some way and I think there is a label on the lid that tells what each relay is for. Identify the three relays for the fans, you know the motor side fan is working so switch it to the other positions and see if anything changes....
  2. no need to post video, we believe you when you say it is not working. attached is the fan schematic, it may be a bad fan or a bad relay.
  3. I started a similar Buick Reatta database in 1996 because there was little to no info on the cars..... over the years we have several versions, my original and some "official" ones from data from Buick Anyone interested can view the Reatta databases at www.reatta.net
  4. I am the Buick Club technical advisor for Buick Reatta..... all 1988-1990 Reattas have the TevesABS system and it was a premium system when made, Several auto companies used the system, but only on top of the line cars or with special packages. Some things you can do to keep the Teves system in great shape. * Flush the brake fluid....... moisture in the fluid will rust and corrode components...that contamination can destroy "o" rings and piston seals. * Check the pressure switch connector for moisture.... it the pressure sw seals leak, brake fluid can change or fail the electronics and the pump will not turn on and off at the correct pressures. * You can test the condition of the accumulator by measuring the drop in fluid level in the reservoir. When the system is DISCHARGED all the fluid in the accumulator is returned to the reservoir, so the level will be high. Conversely, when charged the accumulator has fluid in it and the reservoir level will be lower. The difference in the levels tells you the accumulator condition. On a Reatta with an OEM accumulator, when the difference in fluid levels is around 7/16 you should be shopping for a new accumulator. We do not know what the difference would be with a NEW OEM accumulator because we have never figured out the date codes on the accumulators ....so even with a supposedly new accumulator it could have been sitting on a parts shelf for years and lost some of its pre-charge.
  5. My dad was a steam mechanic/machinist at the Nickle Plate shop in Frankfort Indiana. The engine shown is the NKP "700" series Berkshire. He switched to diesels around 1959 then worked at the shop in Indianapolis and retired while working at the Calumet Ill shop. I would love to visit the Bellevue museum. I have a few NKP items. One is a cloth bag with a draw string and says "return to Lima shop"
  6. I don't think you can made a flat statement about "when to replace tires" too many variables in quality of both material and workmanship. Heat also needs to be factored into the discussion. Higher ambient temps will heat the tires and factor into the failure rates. Above are testimonials on failures, but what was the brand, age, and road conditions? An extreme example was in Road and Track a few years back where they pulled a late '40's Indy race car out of the Speedway museum and ran it around the track at speeds around 100 on old original racing tires. ..... with no tire failure. Virtually all of the information being published is from tire makers...... they want you to replace tires...... especially before they fail and they might get sued. Common sense should be the major decision maker.
  7. Somewhat related to the heat problem.......... I run auxiliary transmission coolers on all my automatic transmission cars. If you live in any "Southern" state where you can fry an egg on the road, the extra cooler is cheap transmission insurance. Example, transmission fluid goes to the cooler in the radiator to cool. The radiator is at around 160-180...... so how hot is the transmission fluid if it is being cooled by the (160-180) radiator? I bypass the cooler in the radiator..(1) that takes some stress off the radiator, now it only cools the engine. (2) by adding an auxiliary transmission cooler, it is setting in ambient air, on a very hot day that is 100 or 60 degrees + cooler than the radiator. You can find lots of transmission coolers at the pick-n-pull.... look for trucks and SUV's that have a towing package, find a big cooler and your engine and transmission will be happy. One note.... you can add an auxiliary trans cooler to your vehicle regardless of where you live.... but on the recommendation of a Hydra-matic engineer, don't bypass the radiator if you live where it get below freezing on a daily basis.... the radiator warms the transmission fluid in those areas in cold weather.
  8. There was a place in Florida that sold generic remotes ..... "remotes are us" but they do not come up on a search, however here is one that sells originals........... https://www.keylessentryremotefob.com/shop-by-car-make/buick/
  9. oil pressure sending units are a know gremlin...... if you have the ability, attach a real gage to the port where the oil pressure sending unit screws in...... this will give you actual oil pressure and confirm you do not have an engine oil problem. Sending units are usually under $20 If you have not already flushed the brake fluid, do that, cheap insurance for future problems. Check the electrical connection at the brake master cylinder.... an intermittant connection can cause the light to come on.... also if the pressure switch connector is damp, that indicates an internal leak and the pressure switch is probably not operating properly. Buy a accumulator..... anyone with a 1988-1990 Reatta with the Teves ABS should have a spare.... sometimes they don't give you much warning, having one on the shelf is again insurance.
  10. I would think the 57 and later Chevy with fuel injection would be considered high performance...also cars with 2 4barrel engines. The Chevelle had a late 65 396 SS option that is not listed above. While the Corvair Spyder might not be considered high performance to some.... Yenko made around 100 Corvairs that did very well in sports car racing. I know, it is hard to draw the line and the cars might be listed in another class.
  11. Does anyone know what top colors were available? I suspect black and white..... maybe tan. But in the mid '50's there were probably not that many choices.
  12. nonfunctional cam sensor will hurt mileage and performance.
  13. Brooklin is doing a special 56 Century convertible in red and white, what top colors would be correct?
  14. There are some pretty stout return springs on each rear caliper.......so if it is not releasing, it is either in the cable or at the pedal. I have never worked on the pedal assembly but pretty sure there is a spring in there that might have failed or broken.
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