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About DavidMc

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  1. Howard, Thanks for that information, so its a rebadged Flanders, I have learnt something. My 1912 Maxwell AC has a Flanders body. David
  2. Howard, I cannot add anything regarding the subject car but your comment "Maxwell had no 6 cylinders" caught my eye. Maxwell offered a huge 6 cylinder car in 1913, the model 50-6. There is an excellent article on one in New Zealand in a local magazine. See also the last two lines of the attached table. David
  3. I just checked my copy of "Maxwell Racing History", I couldn't find any reference to that racing car.
  4. The preheating spark plug is unnecessary with modern fuels and in fact would be detrimental as it would increase the possibility of vapour lock.
  5. Packard offered an air cleaner for retro fitting to some of the models in 1928 see attached details. I think finding one of those would be harder than finding an oil rectifier. They were being reproduced here in Australia some years ago but the patterns have been lost. The difficulty with the fitting of an air cleaner to the Fueliser carburetor is that the air enters in two places, the main inlet and through the secondary air valve.
  6. What is the width of the bars? Do you have photo's?
  7. Sagefinds, yes I have one, this is my 1922 Sport, that rear section fits both 6 & eight cylinder Packard Sport cars up to around mid 1920. That small reverse sweep in the tub where it meets the chassis is the giveaway , you can see it in the drawing. Unfortunately I do not know of anyone searching for the rear tub
  8. Early 1920's Packard Sport. The 4 passenger Sport body is very different from the 5 & 7 passenger models and rare.
  9. MochetVelo: Those side curtains on the Metz look the same as the ones on my Maxwell except you have an extra piece to fill in the gap. This tends to confirm that mine are a copy of the originals (but without the extra pieces) , as I was told. I only used them once and never again, visibility is too restricted. A raincoat is better.
  10. This is a photo of my 1912 Maxwell taken about 10 years ago just after I bought it. The previous owner had fitted side curtains and a roll up front screen, all copied from originals. The side curtains only partially cover the sides. Visibility is awful particularly through that front roll up screen. I have never driven it with the front screen and used the sides only once, the lack of visibility was dangerous .
  11. There is an ad on the HCCA site under parts for reproduction magneto switches: https://www.hcca.org/classifieds.php?parts Magneto Switches available at Mark's Magnetos NOS Early Eisemann Magneto Switch, $200.00, Limited Quantities NOS Bosch Magneto Switch, $150.00, Limited Quantities
  12. That's good news and an easy fix. Thanks for the update. I have never seen an original coil, my coil box had been stripped and the Harley coil along with a new condenser, fitted by the previous owner.
  13. DavidMc

    valve springs

    Thanks Keith, I do have two earlier editions of Dykes and have read the information about valve timing and it was most interesting but I could not find anything that explained the effects of a weak exhaust valve spring. My question was more curiosity than problem solving because the heavier spring had fixed the problem. Its easy enough to understand how the valves and pistons work together but what is not so easy is thinking about the dynamics when engine RPM increase to where things are happening many times per second and other factors such as inertia come into play Anyway , at lease I have learned its not an unknown issue.
  14. Wow, "Cut your gasoline bill in half", why are they not still used, must be a conspiracy by the gas companies.
  15. The original coil condenser has been removed from my coil box so I have the Harley Davidson coil inside the original box and use the original switch wired as shown on my sketch. I have the condenser attached to the magneto alongside the connection to the points , it can also go in the box if preferred. Have you measured volts at the points terminal, mine can be hard to start if there is anything less than 6v at the points, more is better eg 6.5v. if its say 5.9v and it can be hard to start. I have had mine show spark with a plug removed and resting on the cylinder but it would not start so I believe it did not have enough voltage to jump the plug gap, under compression. I made a spark tester (see below) by welding an old plug to a small steel plate with an adjustable gap. Mine will jump about 3/8" maybe more but I did not want to risk shorting in the coil windings. If yours will jump say 1/4" -3/8" then I would say its not a spark issue. For a test with the new HD coil you can simply sit the coil on the floor and run temporary wires bypassing the everything. One side of the coil to the battery, battery to earth, the other to the points and a pair of high tension leads to the plugs. I would also connect a new condenser to the points terminal, the size does not seem to matter , they are not voltage specific. Stay with it, I have been there!