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DavidMc

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  1. I recently spoke to an anodizing firm about re-anodising a pair of aluminium sill plates, the person I spoke to was helpful and prepared to do them but said there was a high chance the sill plates would be destroyed by the process. He recommended polishing and clear coating so I have polished out most of the scratches and will be clear coating them with "Protectaclear", it is claimed to be suitable for aluminium and it is expensive. https://shop.everbritecoatings.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=7
  2. In answer to the original question, I had a 1930 Packard 740 Limo with the 4 speed gearbox and never used the low gear, it would take off in any gear on level ground with a little clutch slip if it was 4th gear. I normally started in second gear then as soon as it was rolling slipped it into 3rd. The low low 1st gear was unnecessary.
  3. Tackle the most difficult jobs first, probably bodywork issues.
  4. I have run a 12v battery through a 6v coil for a trial and it was OK but I forgot to turn the ignition off and 10 minutes later the coil exploded making a huge mess and some damage. I won't be trying that again.
  5. The car is a Jaguar XKSS, essentially the road car version of the racing D type Jaguar
  6. I have used these and they work well. The amber lights fit neatly between the two bars of the bumpers on 1920's cars. https://www.logolites.com/products/turn-signals/
  7. 1/2 cup of lacquer thinner in a leaky automatic transmission will sweII the seals and halt the leak. For how long?
  8. The car in the front on the left is a Morris Oxford about 1932
  9. "V out the cracks with a grinder, fill with Bondo sand smooth and paint the wheel. Cost you about $10 bucks." I did that about 30 years ago on a badly cracked wheel as a temporary repair until I could find a good wheel. I never found another wheel and the repaired one is still perfect. A very easy DIY job
  10. I had a similar crack stitched on a cast iron Packard cylinder head some years ago, it failed in a very short time. There was not enough thickness, due to internal corrosion, to hold the pins. As suggested above have the thickness checked before making a decision.
  11. I would suggest you find a local automotive paint supplier and have these discussions with them, if they can't help find a supplier who can. There are traps with what you are asking and you have to know what you are painting over.
  12. The fact the cost of restoration is likely to exceed the final value of the car has been known for a long time. I am currently restoring a long abandoned project car from piles of parts, its a giant jigsaw puzzle. I am doing all of the work except the final upholstery and with luck I could sell it when it's finished for about what I will have spent on it but even if I end up losing money, so what, I am retired and it is what I enjoy (mostly!) doing every day. it's a hobby where you can recover at least some of your expenses and the result is rewarding. I could buy the same car in nice running condition and take it for drives but what would I do the rest of the time? The project keeps me busy all of the time, even when I go to bed trying to figure out the solution to a problem. Sounds good to me.
  13. I can't help but you need to state the type of wheel, the hubcaps are different on each type of wheel.
  14. Some time ago I helped restore a small 1930's front-wheel drive BSA car originally fitted with a cork clutch. The first time the car was driven after it was finished it sheared all of the corks. The old corks had aged and simply crumbled under load. We consulted a local clutch expert who was open to the use of both corks, as original, or a modern friction material suitable for operation immersed in oil. We chose the modern material mainly because it is more robust and it worked fine. The cork would also have worked well. Your choice.
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