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DavidMc

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About DavidMc

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  1. I agree with the previous comments, I have had them in my 1920's cars and they work fine. What is wrong with yours? You refer to the cannister, does it leak? Have you had it working?
  2. DavidMc

    Maxwell Books

    Maxwell. Two new books produced in Australia. “Maxwell the 2 Cylinder Models”, 280 pages covering details of models, restoration & repair information, photos, drawings and more with input from Maxwell owners in Australian, USA and UK. AU$40.00 plus postage. Note. This book covers the 4” & 4.5”x 4” models not the larger 5” x5” models “Copies of Maxwell Period Literature from 1904 to 1913” for 2, 4 & 6 cylinder models, 464 pages comprising sales brochures, instruction books, parts lists. Ring bound for ease of copying. AU$40.00 Plus postage
  3. The strapping inside is separated by thin strips of brass to reduce friction. The brass is usually cracked. I replaced it with very thin polished stainless steel. I set mine up using the above instructions. I drove the car with them removed, then with them fitted after rebuilding. I could not feel any difference.
  4. No more big projects for me Mal, I am cured!! David
  5. 1924 Packard model 143....1st year 8 Cylinder....long hood....dual spares That Packard is actually the rare 136 (or 236) Sport model with the low profile body. The most obvious clue is the Sport had the rear doors hinged at the front, the rear doors on the 143 were rear hinged
  6. It's a known problem, I found the same on my 1922 Packard 126 engine and know of other who also found a cracked main bearing cap on early Packard 6 cylinder engines.
  7. I have a car with scoops on the big ends and I wonder if they really scoop oil from the sump or whether the just catch oil splash as the rotate. When the engine is running at say 1200 RPM the scoops will be dipping into the sump 20 times per second. As the scoop enters the sump it will displace the oil and it will not have time to recover before the scoop is back. So the oil will have a channel caused by the rotating big end. However scoop lubricated big end bearing work so my guess is that it has little to do with the scoop picking up oil as it passes through the sump at normal operatin
  8. I agree with Ed. Acronyms tend to be regional and this site is read worldwide so if you want to be understood, spell it out.
  9. I had a 1922 6 cylinder Packard 126 Sport with the following numbers: Body number U 14... AR Chassis number U 14... Engine number U 14... B Its just the way they were numbered, I don't think the "U" means anything. I also have a spare 1924 226 engine that does not have a letter prefix
  10. 1911 Model AB, twin cylinder.
  11. This is the radiator script on a 1922 Packard 126 delivered new RHD to Australia. Most Packards of that era here in Australia have some form of radiator script and they are not always identical suggesting they may have been fitted by the Australian dealer with different dealers using different scripts
  12. Maybe not the same as a 1937 but I made the golf door hinges on a 1929 Packard using shortened piano hinges and machining and fitting the small decorative knobs at at each end. The end result was identical to the originals.
  13. It is extremely important that the pit is arranged so that a car does not block an easy exit from the pit in the unlikely case of a fire.
  14. I would question the logic of repairing a pot metal item. The faults that occur over time such as pitting , expanding or cracking will surely continue ? Any Metallurgists out there who can comment? I have always replaced pot metal items by casting a new brass replacement using using an original repaired with bog.
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