DavidMc

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About DavidMc

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  1. The 1906 Maxwell Model L had the smallest engine of Maxwell's 2 cylinder cars, there were two models, the "L" and the "Gentleman's Speedster" the latter being $20 more expensive and a with slight body change and the same engine it transformed a 25 mph "L" into a 50 mph car. Twice the speed at the stroke of the salesman's pen!! Anyone seen one of these 1906 "road rockets" in action?
  2. The early Maxwell 2 cylinder cars have full elliptic springs back and front, my 1912 has them and the ride is a bit harsh but its only a light car as is your A model Ford. The heavier Franklin will ride better Try greasing between the leaves, that might help. Fitting full elliptical springs in place of the transverse springs would be a huge job with no guarantee of an improvement and the resulting car would be close to worthless.
  3. It is the same as the one on my 1912 Maxwell AC 2 cyl and fits earlier 2 cyl. models back to at least 1909 model LD . Commonly removed and and placed with a carburetor that is easier to adjust.
  4. If we are to resolve the problem raised in the original post by DavidN1930 we need to address the surging in the glass filter bowl under the vacuum tank, as clearly shown in his attached videos. Why is the fuel level going up and down and why are there large bubbles ? The fuel enters this bowl from the top and exists from the top so when ever the level drops the supply to the carburetor is interrupted and the the car will stall or at least loose power all as described in the initial question. Vapor lock is a possibility and I have had to fit heat shields to my 1920's Packards but unless it is at least warm weather that is unlikely to be the problem. A heat shield is essential for hot weather with these cars. Incidentally fuel does not have a single boiling point. It is made up of a number of liquids with varying boiling points and the lowest of which boils at around 40 Deg C .
  5. Interesting but not relevant to this issue. The OP says the lower vacuum tank is full . So why is the level in the filter bowl going up and down, it can't have anything to do with the fuel supply to the vacuum tank. The fuel tank could be empty and the car should run fine until the fuel in the vacuum tank runs out.
  6. When you have a fluctuating level in the glass filter bowl , if that is caused by junk in the tank or fuel line then it implies that the vacuum tank is completely empty and receiving only a trickle but you have stated that the lower tank is full so even if there is a problem at the tank once the vacuum tank is full then fuel feed is simply gravity to the carburetor and the problem is confined to the vacuum tank /carburetor area Vacuum leakage past the flapper valve might be creating partial suction in the outer tank especially if the lower tank vent is blocked or restricted. There are vents to both the inner and lower tanks. Make sure the lower tank vent is clear, and not blocked by the gasket between the top and outer tank
  7. Watching the fuel level in the filter bowl, I wonder if the flapper valve on the inner tank is leaking allowing some suction into the outer tank and therefore the filter bowl. If this is happening it would also be affected by the opening and closing of the carburetor float valve . The suction from the engine is very strong and could easily cause some leakage around the flapper valve but with the other influences its hard to be certain what is happening. It will be interesting to know what happens when you replace the flapper valve. Peening the brass valve seats might stop them falling out but may not prevent leakage. I would be more inclined to seal them with Loctite or better still fit a new top. I hope you post your findings.
  8. Whoops! Should be fixed now So what was the problem and the solution
  9. I replaced a packed gland seal with a modern lip seal many years ago. It was reasonably effective but I later replaced it with a modern mechanical seal which is 100% leak proof. I have since done this conversion on other cars. The mechanical seal has two faces that are lightly spring loaded together, one face is fixed to the rotating shaft and the other is stationary and fixed to the housing . Finding a suitable seal that will fit takes some searching and some machining will be needed.
  10. DavidMc

    Adhesive

    This is good stuff : http://www.soudal.com.au/pdf/TRex-FastGrabTDS.pdf
  11. I have found oven cleaner some times works where all else products fail. Paint stripper is also worth a try .
  12. Try K M Lifestyle http://www.mykmlifestyle.com/Ford_King_Seeley_Fuel.html
  13. Modern or moulded linings require far more pressure between the linings and drum than can be achieved with mechanical brakes. Must be the correct woven material. Green Gripper or an equivalent is one most people use
  14. Trimacar, In answer to your question the starter generator units used are rated for very high RPM in generator mode. I have a 2 cylinder Maxwell that was fitted with this belt drive starter set up by the previous owner . The Delco Remy S/G unit is rated for maximum of 12,500 RPM and in fact needs to operate at 8-9,00 RPM before it generates current. Mine was set up with 9:1 ratio so it slightly exceeded it max RPM when the engine was at its nominal maximum of 1500 RPM. It all worked well but I took it off .