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About wufibug

  • Birthday 10/14/1943

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  1. I've got a 94 Buick Roadmaster with the 5.7 LT1. I had a set of Bosch R6 [HR8KII33V] but could never determine if they could be used in this motor. Have decided to go with ACDelco but find there are two possible double platinum plugs, the 41906 [gapped at .050] and the 41902 [gapped at .060]. Any preference and if so, why?
  2. Noticed a crack in the windshield of my 90 coupe. I assume they were the same for all years. Assuming you are willing to go through the hassle of shipping, what would the final price be to 91913? Richard
  3. I simply have no idea what a cockpit cover for a convertible might be worth so I don't want to insult you with an offer. Give me some idea of what you would like for one. Mine is a 1990 black/grey. Richard
  4. Daniel, is the bottom end of the "94-95 supercharged engine from a park avenue ultra" the same as our motors or did they have mods [cam, roller rockers etc] that , together with the supercharger increased performance?
  5. Am I correct in assuming that is not the 91 setup? Which prompts me to ask, did the 91 have anti-lock brakes that were non-Teves?
  6. Padg, I agree that Caddy finally got the message about the Allante in 93, but way too late of course. If they had jettisoned the Bosch anti-lock system and the troublesome fancy dash in, say 89 rather than 93, the car might have had a chance. I don't, however, think the crucial change was the Northstar motor which itself was beset by problems. They never got around to making the convertible top a one hand-one button affair [the top pull down motor was a cottage industry in itself]. And all those absurd little filler trim pieces most of which probable blew away at 90mph. And the Bose sound system that makes upgrading to modern sound nearly impossible, and . . . . .
  7. Barney, what about the later coil pack makes for the improvement for use on our cars?
  8. Any suspension shop should be able to install the strut and mount with no trouble. There is nothing terribly unique about the Reatta setup. I've done the job and it is a PITA what with compressing the springs and all [which, as I recall is not necessary in the rear]. I know some folks don't like them, but I put in a camber kit when I do my struts. The whole business is, after all, almost 30 years old and without the kit, most shops will not adjust the camber as part of an alignment. I run 255/50/17s in the rear and I need to put some shims back there to keep the tires from wearing improperly. Only the more modern machines in the hands of a careful tech can provide the actual specs on the alignment, front and rear. That allows you to fine tune for yourself, particularly the rear. Wish there were a slightly larger front sway bar for our cars. If I could find a convertible in the wrecking yard [several coupes but no verts], I'd put the torsion strut across the shock towers from that model into my coupe. Richard
  9. Way back when we were all a lot younger, Padgett measured the opening in the 1990 and said the height was 95 mm. He also determined that double or 2 din radios are 100mm high. This tempts one to think it might be possible to shoehorn a 2 din unit into the Reatta dash. I'd like to stuff something like the unit below into mine. This one says its dimensions are 175mm X 163mm X 98mm but they sell some that are higher but not as deep. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Stereo-Radio-2DIN-6-2-Bluetooth-Mirror-For-GPS-Nav-MP3-DVD-CD-Player-Touch/312674481349?hash=item48ccd9f4c5%3Ag%3AEl0AAOSw3tBdE4zT&LH_BIN=1&LH_ItemCondition=3 Has anyone attempted this and succeeded? Failed?
  10. Ronnie, I think you're right. Now if I can just find a elf who can handle a ratchet . . . .
  11. BTW, Barney, so did the ill-fated Allante share most of the Reatta's underpinnings.
  12. The forward cable for the parking brake that attaches to the ratchet pedal lost its head. Looking back at the service records of the PO, I see the dealer replaced that cable within the car's first 5 years of life. Anyway, I noted that back in 2016 uwcharliet posted the following, but never got an answer: "Help! The top of the ratchet, (where the end of the cable is withheld) is sprung. What I mean is there is a two prong fork which is supposed to grab the end of the cable, but the cable pulls through. Not much more than a spot weld will fix the problem, but the difficulty is HOW IN THE HELL do you remove the ratchet? It appears to be completely disconnected (I have a factory diagram), but my mechanic cannot get it out... It is like the frame was built AROUND the ratcheting device. HELP! What are we doing wrong, Even removing part of the dash won't release it. The "book" at the local Buick Dealership calls for 2.7 hours labor, but I cannot find a copy of the procedure to get the damn ratchet out. " You have to be a less than 3' tall to even get a good look at the ratchet pedal and how the cable fits on it. It appears you have to remove the ratchet mechanism to replace the cable. Has anyone ever done this? Did you hire a contortionist to do the job for you. Is there some simple way of doing it that I am, as usual, missing? Why bother, you ask? Because I'm not big on using the parking pawl to keep my car from rolling on hills. So to second uwcharliet, "Help!"
  13. Barney, aren't they the same as the ones used in Corvettes? If so, are those any better?
  14. I'm sorry, Daniel, but where are your write ups on the Series I swap and the ABS replacement? Didn't the forum used to have a designated place for these writeups?
  15. Daniel, that is a beautiful installation. Did you happen to document it somewhere? What was involved in putting the F40 in the Reatta? That looks like it might be a 91 since I don't see the dreaded anti-lock master cylinder there.
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