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Jon37

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  1. Parting out 600 vehicles, all-Mopar. Open by appointment only. Open Tuesday - Friday 9am-5pm Satuday 10am-4pm Pacific Time Sunday - Monday Closed. 46827 SE Wildcat Mt. Dr., Sandy, OR., 97055 503-668-7786 Video: https://youtu.be/JgLCGnyepdc
  2. 3077 Memory Lane / I-35 North Denton Tx 76207-4919 Webpage: http://www.ctcautoranch.com Phone: (940) 482-3007 E-mail address: ctcautoranch@ctcautoranch.com Advertises 3,000 American cars, 1940's to 1980's. See website.
  3. Wayfarer, I'm not sure there IS a fuse block on cars as early as yours. Generally, fuse holders were wired into the individual circuits feeding radio, heater, etc. Some manufacturers put circuit breakers or glass fuses on the switch itself (Hudson did this on their headlight switch, for example, in the 30's, 40's and early 50's). As to turn signal flashers, try looking up under the dashboard. To avoid contortions, use a small mirror and flashlight so you can sit in the front seat and see the reflected underside of the dash.
  4. You ARE disconnecting the ground strap from the battery whenever you're not working on the car. Right?
  5. 1. Are you sure it's vapor lock? Could it be that the coil is overheating? (Next time you head out on a hot day, carry a big of ice along. If the truck again stalls, use the ice to cool down the coil and see if the truck starts again.) 2. Do you have sufficient fiber spacers between the carburetor and the manifold? In my car I now have 4 gaskets, a metal heat deflector, and 4 more gaskets, all insulating the carb from the manifold. The other day I drove 2 hours in low-90's temperatures, and had no vapor lock, even sitting with the engine idling, waiting for a light. Whenever
  6. Large junkyard with cars back to the 1930's. 1230 S 82nd Ave Eau Claire, WI Call (715) 832-7163 Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/pg/Cooleys-Statewide-Scrap-and-Salvage-166587450083137/about/?ref=page_internal Website: https://www.cooleysscrap.com/ Walk-through YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k3tQMckjrEA
  7. If you haven't done so already, you may also want to post this message at the Hudson Open Forum, where a lot of Hudson and Essex owners hang out. https://forum.hetclub.org/
  8. N3181 Bernitt Rd (776.49 mi), Tigerton, WI 54486 tel.: (715) 754-5885 Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/zebssalvage/?rf=955250867892943 Website: According to Vintage Truck Magazine (in 2016), the "yard houses 2,000 vehicles, of which at least 1,500 are from the 1920s to the 1970s. He told me that there are over 100 in the 1930s section alone. Most makes and models are represented and kept in rows, making shopping easier. Mike tries his best to keep the weeds under control during the summer months. It is best to always call ahead for a visit, because Mike is out
  9. N6848 N Island View Rd (730.25 mi), Watertown, WI 53094 Tel. (920) 699-2521 Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Jacks-Auto-Ranch-304985152074/ Website: www.jacksautoranch.com "We have a large selection of old cars from the late 1930's to the 1960's and we also carry a large inventory of late model cars and parts. We have hundreds of Cadillac's in our yard from the late 1940's up to the early 1990's along with a large selection of used parts. These include Engines, Transmissions, Rear Ends, Axels/Shafts, Brake Parts, Windshields, Door Glass, and anything and everything that b
  10. Car #182, the '27 Graham-Paige, is listed as belonging to Harry Furst, of Middletown, Pa. Harry died in 2013. He owned a number of antiques and classics over the years, many of them Packards, but his obituary reported that his most prized automobile was a 1929 Graham-Paige 827 Victoria Coupe -- which he owned until the time of his death, I believe. The Parade of Progress printed program may have been correct, and the '27 that they listed was one of Harry's earlier acquisitions. But the "1927" might have been a typo, in which case the '29 was quite likely in the show, and is
  11. Micmac, for your own benefit you should start a new topic, under the "Hudson Essex Terraplane" category, devoted to your need for parts. Instead, you have attached your message to a year-old discussion about parts for sale by someone else. I am afraid your message won't be seen by many. In addition to posting your needs here at the AACA forum, you might also want to post a message at the Hudson Open Forum, which attracts a large audience of Hudson folks. https://forum.hetclub.org/
  12. You might also ask this question on the Hudson Open Forum. A large number of Hudson enthusiasts hang out there, and perhaps some of them could answer your question (or might even be acquainted with the car in question). It's pretty easy to sign up for the Forum, just give your e-mail address and invent a password. https://forum.hetclub.org/
  13. Before you began working on the fuel sending unit, did you disconnect the battery cable or the ground cable? If so, that would be the one condition that changed from "before", so I'd concentrate on that. I'm with Bloo: check any cable clamps you disconnected, and make sure they (and the battery terminal to which they're attached) are clean and bright (use a battery terminal brush), then tighten the clamp firmly around them. If you didn't tighten the clamp (or you simply put the cable clamp over the terminal and gave it a twist until it seemed tight) that could be your problem.
  14. I bought a full set of LED lamps for my 6-volt, positive ground, 1937-vintage automobile from Classic Dynamo & Regulator Conversions in England: http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/online-shop-for-led-bulbs-and-light-boards-etc.php and have been generally happy with the results. My single taillight lamps are dual "filament" so the brighter "filament" shares both brake and turn signal duties. I did use the LED flasher unit sold by this company, and the flashing rate is very regular. I ordered dual "filament" taillight bulbs, license plate light, instrument lights, fende
  15. If you haven't done so already, I would suggest also posting this question at the Hudson Open Forum, https://forum.hetclub.org/
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