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About Jon37

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  1. The decade from 1930 to 1940 saw perhaps the greatest improvement in cars, before or since. The closer to 1940 that you're willing to get, the better. Just compare: In 1930 you have 45-50 cruising speeds, somewhat primitive handling and (solid front axle) suspension, mostly mechanical brakes, bodies framed in wood, minimal creature comfort. By 1940 you have 55-60 cruising speeds (with more powerful engines, higher-speed axle ratios, early automatic transmissions, syncromesh shifting and overdrive) modern, independent front suspension, juice brakes, all-steel bodie
  2. Please do not use this forum when searching for specific auto parts. The purpose of this forum is for listing junkyards which still contain vintage automobiles.
  3. Interesting discussion. I changed almost all the lamps in my car to LED's early in 2019 and have been happy ever since. (The headlight high beams don't seem to "project" out, as incandescents do, but that's another story.) I did use the electronic flashers, which are a great improvement over the old style flashers. I was told by the LED supplier (in England) that one must not mix incandescents and LEDs on the same circuit. However, my front turn signals are still incandescent while the rears are LED, and it all works! The LED tail / brake / turnsignal lights are brighter than ever, and
  4. If this is a 1912 Hudson engine, those could in fact be the spark plugs that triggered the acetylene explosions within the cylinders, which started the engine. The "Disco" self-starting system was used only in 1912, by Hudson. Several other marques used acetylene starting systems (which were made by several companies) during that period as well. Soon thereafter, the electric starter came along, relegating the ineffectual and dangerous acetylene starting system to the dustbin of history.
  5. Thank you for all your comments and suggestions!
  6. The frame of the rear window in my convertible is either aluminum or pot-metal. In preparation for the new canvas top, I sanded and polished to frame until the finish was highly chrome-like. I decided to clear-coat it to prevent corrosion. Being a thrifty kind of guy, I bought a can of Premium Decor Clear Gloss spray enamel (contains toluene and acetone). The next day it gleamed, and I took it (and the car) to the top shop. When I picked the car up a week or so later, my window frame looked awful. (See photo below) The finish had turned splotchy! I have no idea
  7. Here are some outtakes from Fox Movietone News, of the staged arrival of a Nite Coach in New York. The buses had Pullman style berths and passengers were served meals. Because these are outtakes, you will see scenes being shot twice or even three times. https://digital.tcl.sc.edu/digital/collection/MVTN/id/6027/rec/116
  8. Nope, Hudson-only, from 1936-39. (1935 was a different shape). If it were mine, I'd simply put it up on Ebay and get what I could for it. And again, I'd suggest placing a notice on the Hudson Open Forum (see link above), along with a URL that leads to the actual Ebay ad. So that you'll attract some bidders. Incidentally, here is the actual power unit, remote switches and shift tower that would have been bolted to the transmission:
  9. So few of them are sold, that it's hard to establish a standard value. Do you have the entire setup? That would consist of the stalk that attaches to the steering column (with the actual miniature shift lever), the steering column jacket with internal raceway for the wiring from the switch, numerous switches that fit on the clutch and transmission, and the entire electro-vacuum power unit (with 2 cylinders) that bolts to the transmission. (There's also the special transmission cover and the accessory emergency gearshift lever that plugs into the top of the transmission in case
  10. Has anyone had dealings with an antique car parts company in Lattimer, Iowa? A friend is interested in purchasing some antique parts advertised by them, and wants to know if the company is reliable. (No reason to think they're not; just checking before he sends money!) The owner's name is something like Paschell. I'd appreciate hearing from anyone who's purchased parts from these people. You can "message" me, or e-mail me at xxxdetailed@verizon.net (delete "xxx" before sending, please).
  11. Please do not use the junkyard forum to look for particular parts. It is meant only as a listing of junkyards around the U.S. which have large numbers of older vehicles for parts.
  12. Yours would be a model 40, which was the base level in 1940 and was available as the "T", the Traveler Six, "P", the Deluxe Six, or "C", Business Cars. (You may see one of these letters on the number plate, possibly located separate from the serial number.) Actually, only the T and P series were available as coupes; the C only came as a pickup, bare chassis, or panel truck.) All model 40's had the six-cylinder 3" X 4-1/8" engine, 175 CID. As opposed to the 3" x 5", 212 CID engine used in the other six cylinder cars. As to the engine number: a friend just
  13. You may also wish to open up a discussion over at the Hudson club's "Open Forum", at https://forum.hetclub.org/ . The AACA forum is fantastic, but it pays to reach out to several forums when you have a Hudson! The first place you should inspect, when you get under the car, is the perimeter frame in the rear wheel well area. With any luck you won't have serious rust on the car but if you do, this is where it will happen. The good news: if you DO find that the frame needs repair here, you need only unbolt and remove the rear quarters and you will have full and easy access to the f
  14. If you haven't done so already, you might also want to post this question over at the H-E-T Open Forum, at https://forum.hetclub.org/discussions
  15. If the bucket's dented, the value may lie in the innards (reflector, socket, clips and lens). I'm afraid the value lies in how badly someone needs this stuff! Sales of these things are so few and far between, that no pattern of value can be seen.
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