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timecapsule

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  1. I need to replace my rear wheel inner and outer seals and my pinion seal fairly soon on my 1948 Chrysler Windsor. I don't have a shop/garage to do the job in. The car parks in an outdoor reserved parking space where working on a car is frowned upon. My car won't fit in my shop and outside my shop where it's parked while I'm there, is grass. Also leaving the car parked there over night is frowned upon. So any work I do on the car needs to be accomplished in one day. So I'm hesitant to try and replace the seals myself. If I take it to a service shop, they, and myself, want the process to go as fast as possible, plus I don't want my car sitting outside their shop waiting for seals. That's an explanation as to why I want to track down the seals before everything gets pulled apart. Tracking down these seals is turning out to be not a simple task. There are a number of sites that do cross referencing with sizes included. With many open tabs on my computer with lots of cross reference numbers I'm learning that even though the original Chrysler number from the parts book are two different number, the axle inner seal 651678 and outer seal 859164, after checking many cross references, I'm finding most companies list them as being the same size OD. and ID. It seems that the only differences are in the thickness. The parts book only lists the measurements for the inner seal. As for the thickness, the parts book says the inner seal 651678 is .47 in. thick. I don't have my parts car inner seals to compare p/n. Victor 62160 is .375 in. thick. SKF 13797 is .25 in. thick. National/Timken 6241S is .25 in. thick. I have my parts car outer seals in hand, which is a Victor 62160 on one side of the car and Victor 46292 on the other side and they measure the same dimensions. But they both seems to be the same size as the online dimensions. Why the two different numbers is beyond me, that in itself seems strange, but my digital and dial calipers both verify that they are the same. Would it make any sense to try and install two of the SKF seals totaling .50 in. or there abouts? Here's something interesting. That National/Timken 6241S that cross references to the inner seal( 651678) is actually the outer seal on my car. Which I haven't removed yet. What's that all about?? Is it just a thickness difference between inner and outer? Or maybe my cars existing outer seal is wrong? As for the pinion seal 663602. On a different forum there is a thread from 2014 and a fella said the seal he got from a supplier was too thin. His was .586 thick when he removed it. The one he got from Federal Mogul 473240 was .312in. thick. Victor has 3 cross reference seals all different numbers, all the same dimensions and they are .765in. thick. I think maybe SKF 18880 would be my best bet at 1.88in. x 3.11in. x .500in. It was also recommended on that thread to use a Speedi-Sleeve. SKF 99189 apparently matches up to their 18880 seal. However in that 2014 thread another fella said that the Speedi-Sleeve that he installed was too short and so he got a leak. He said he went back in there and replaced it with a longer Speedi-Sleeve. So does anyone have any information about X-long Speedi-Sleeves that would replace the SKF 99189? I just want to be prepared on the safe side. I didn't see any reference to extra long Speedi-Sleeves on the SKF site when I was researching their Speedi-Sleeves. Another question would be is it possible, or advisable, or a no-no, to use Speedi-Sleeves on the axle as well? It would probably be a wise decision to at least order a couple axle bearings as well. My parts car axle bearing number is Timken 25877. The online bore measurement of that matches the ID measurement in the parts book bearing 698-400 within .0005, so I'm assuming I should be safe with ordering that Timken bearing. I hate farming out a job that is basically straight forward, once I have the correct seals, but as I mentioned I just don't have a shop to do it in. I would look forward to the challenge. However it seems that the entire gear assembly of the rear end has to come out to get that pinion seal out, so as to install a Speedi-Sleeve and new seal. Plus it seems both axles have to come out to make sure the axle end play is correct on both axles, basically at the same time. No way this old fart can accomplish that in one day from sunrise to sunset, even on a long summer day, crawling around on the grass under the car. There are ducks and chickens all over the place and they love camping out under my car when I'm at my shop, so you can imagine how much fun crawling around on the grass would be, with their "deposits" everywhere. So I want to try and pave the way as smooth as possible for the service garage to do the job without having to reorder all the seals in the event the ones I get won't fit, which seems like almost a guaranty if I got them from the regular mopar parts suppliers, from what I've read and learned in the past. So I'm trying to source them myself through seal/bearing companies.
  2. No No,,,,, No connection intended. I just mentioned about replacing my axle seals, that are leaking slightly, as being an opportune time to have a look at the condition of the axle key while I had things apart back there.
  3. That's good advise. I think I'll take it to a "old car mechanic" to replace the seals so I'll pass on that .003 freeplay stat. I've watched videos on measuring and setting that freeplay before. That process might be over my head since I don't even have a garage for my car to work in. Are those shims available at AB, or Roberts, or moparmall, etc? Or are the fairly generic in shape?
  4. That's crazy, one has to wonder why someone would even think about installing worn key stock
  5. Your memory serves you well. The front mount is exactly as you described and I can see how if it was broken or the rubber had deteriorated and separated that the two metals could easily clash, since that rubber section is very thin. However the problem is now solved as I am about to post. BINGO! No more noise thanks to c49er and Bloo's suggestion. I torgued the crown nuts to 142+ ( tightening them tighter to get to the next crown nut slot/axle hole lining up). So thank you both very much and once again I'm reminded to check my manual for specs. I got both wheels off the ground and there was no visual signs of anything wrong and the wheel wouldn't rock back and forth. I suspect I travelled 4 trips of about 15 minutes each, so I don't suspect that I did any damage to the keys or keyways. I have axle seals on order so when they arrive, I'll be sure to inspect everything when I take the wheel hubs off. Thanks again guys!
  6. That was on my mental list at first too. But I revved the car up while looking under the hood and the engine doesn't move.
  7. I haven't checked it in about a year or so, but it's a good thought. I wouldn't say it took a LOT to get it off. Definitely a LOT more than a really tight lug bolt. I got it off using a 2 ft. Johnson bar. I have a standard puller, not one of those HD ones that you hit with a sledge hammer though. At one point I thought it might brake under the pressure, but then I heard a semi-loud snap when the hub let go. Both rear wheels were about the same.
  8. I agree Bloo. I'm pretty sure I have the socket in my tool box in the trunk. 1 1/8" I think if I'm not mistaken. I can take my other car over to my shop to get my torque wrench and the longest Johnson bar I have is about 2 feet but I have a 4 foot pipe I can slide over it.
  9. When I said I backed it off, I didn't mean the way you'd set your front bearings. I mean it was still super tight when I slipped the cotter pin through. Plus my first instinct was loose lug nuts, so when I checked them all I lifted each wheel off the ground and tried to tilt them back and forth and there was no movement front or back wheels.
  10. I'll check that out Bloo. Rain tomorrow though So assuming you're right in this being my problem, what would actually be making the clunk noise?
  11. I don't follow " if the key won't line up" You put the key in the axle keyway, then line up the keyway in the hub/drum assembly and simply slide it on. Then tap the end of the key until it is flush with the end of the keyways, right? As far as tight goes, I'll go back and check what the torque is now. So are you saying once you get to 142 ft. lb. and your hole in the castle nut was not lined up with the hole in the axle for the cotter pin, then I should add more torque until the next hole lines up?
  12. Please explain in a little more detail.
  13. Yes all good there, I pulled the drum off when I checked it. I didn't check the torque to be at 142 though when I put it back on. I just went tight, and then backed off to the first opening in the castle nut for the cotter pin to slip through.
  14. So true, I left out the usual and obvious stuff that a guy would check, that I've already done like pull all the wheels off to check the brakes and of course the U-bolt and look for any obvious oil deposits on the ground for something leaking. Plus I greased all the nipples about a week ago. Everything looked fine and not out of place at that time and I haven't gone through a pot hole.
  15. My 48 Chrysler Windsor with fluid drive has recently started making a clunking noise. The clunk is fairly loud, short, and only happens when taking off. But not all the time. Come to a stop sign, stop look both ways, take off,,, usually no clunk. It will pretty much do it all the time if I'm fully stopped, I depress the clutch, put it in low or high and slowly take off. One clunk just as the car starts to move. Stop, depress the clutch and put it in reverse and the same clunk. So definitely it happens when I change direction using the clutch and transmission. Sort of the sound you'd expect from a loose drive shaft U-bolt. Or maybe a loose set of wheel lugs. It sounds like it is coming from all 4 corners,,,, maybe. At least front and back as opposed to the transmission area. It's a different sound than the usual transmission shifting noise with the fluid drive, but about as loud, maybe louder. So sometimes it sounds like it's coming from the back wheels. A couple times I get a double clunk, very close together. I think I've discovered that if when I start out, I keep the brake on, depress the clutch, put it in gear, then release the clutch, then ease off the brake, then there is no clunk. But I've only just tried that a couple times, so I'll have to do that a few times to see if I get a consistent result. If the car is on an incline, and I release the emergency brake and just let it role forward without putting it in gear, no clunk. Has anyone ever experienced this?
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