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  1. Bernbaum is selling them for $22. But here in Canada through experience on an item of that size and cost you basically double it and cross your fingers that Canada Border Services don't want a share of the pie added on top of that. But thanks for the link Graham
  2. I guess that's your way of telling me that Andy Bernbaum is a good deal. haha!
  3. Thanks. Yeah you're right, it sure looks the same. So what would I use for a reference or P/N at a Napa Auto parts store to get one of those?
  4. The manual specifies to coil the spring 1 1/4 turns. No more no less, but as long as the tab slid into the slot on the manifold thru arm and the other end hooked around the stud, and it fit inside that weighted shield, then a heat gun should determine how many turns is needed for whatever spring is used, to fully open and fully close the flapper, I would think. But I'm sure the average parts guy is not going to want to search through their stock to find a similar spring. I'm hoping someone has tried something that works so I'll have a make and year to narrow down the search.
  5. My heat riser spring on my '48 Chrysler (251 flathead) recently broke. My question is will I have to replace it with the specific spring for that engine or are there other more accessible and common springs that will do the same job, that might be on the shelf at my local parts store? My point being that yes Bernbaum has the spring but by the time I get it in my hands here in Canada it will cost me about $50. Who knows how long it will take to get here with the covid thing going on. The spring has 7 1/2 revolutions to it.
  6. Why did you not convert the turn signals ?
  7. Thanks for your input so far guys. It looks like it's going to be trial and error. In this thread, https://forums.aaca.org/topic/274052-1948-windsor-flasher/ Back in 2016, c49er added some pictures explaining the wiring at the flasher and also mentioned that the circuit breaker was providing full protection for the turn signals. But I'm still a little confused as to how it works? It looks basically like a set of exposed points. I'd like to hear an example of something going wrong and how the circuit breaker performs protection ?
  8. Hi everyone. So I'm contemplating converting to LED for my turn signal and brake light on my 48 Chrysler. It's still 6 volt positive ground. LEDLight.com says that I might need one of their load equalizer wired into my turn signals or my signals might hyper flash. They also suggest using their flasher. I'm not opposed to buying a flasher from them. I'm guessing my local napa auto parts store won't stock a 6 volt positive ground flasher anyways. If I use their flasher do I simply mount my original circuit breaker on to the new flasher? Looks like I would have to modify it s
  9. So I got curious about the function of the solenoid on the Carter EV1. As I was searching I came across a thread back in 2009 where DougD pointed out that the solenoids with 2 electrical contacts were for the 49-53 years with the M6 transmissions. But my question is how does that Anti-stall solenoid actually work. There is one wire going from that device, and T's off to the solenoid on the trans and to the coil. But I'm not sure which way the juice is flowing. Plus I don't see how it works. The wire connection goes inside the anti-stall solenoid and then continues with a coil of copper w
  10. So what grit paper would you have used? I would think if you lift the wheel off the ground and get a buddy to sit in the car and apply the brakes a few times while you spin the wheel. It wouldn't take too long to get a good wear pattern to appear on the lining. It might be a bit labour intense since you'd have to keep pulling the wheel off to check and then remove the sandpaper just as the entire lining is showing abrasion from the sandpaper. But it theory it would work I suppose. I'm just curious how many spins of the wheel it might take.
  11. I'm also working on a 47 Chrysler Royal. It has 11 inch drums just like my car. There was a doner car at some point for this car so there are lots of spare parts. In a box I came across a set of brand new brake linings. They are the rivot on type. They measure the same as what's on my car. 2" x 11 1/4" How would I determine what material they are? Is it possible to bond these linings to my shoes, if I should need them? The next time I pull my drum off I can lay them in to see how the shape compares to the drum.
  12. Are there any pictures or illustrations of this method on line anywhere?
  13. In rethinking my question I suppose you would take measurements of where the centre of the shoe was in respect to a point in the backing plate and then but the drum back on and then transfer that measurement to the outside of the drum. According to the manual that clip that's connected to the adjusting cam can adjust the tilt of the shoe ( I don't have the manual in front of me so I'm not remembering the correct terminology obviously) I'm assuming the closer you drilled that hole to the centre of the shoe lining the more accurate the measurements would be I suppose. Once again I'd hav
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