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Jon37

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  1. James, if you haven't already done so, I suggest you go to the H.A.M.B. message board https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/ , join it, and pose your question there. You are going to find a LOT more people there who are acquainted with modified cars there than you will find here (we're basically enthusiasts of original cars, although many of us do own modifieds). H.A.M.B. members will know all the details of what went into building the type of car you're looking at, so they will have some great suggestions for what to look for when you're inspecting it, and what questions to ask the owner. In fact, it's possible that one or two of them might actually KNOW this particular car and could reply to you (privately of course) with the real lowdown on it. Best of luck in your search for the right car!
  2. Have you spoken to all the specialty antique auto insurance companies about their requirements? Hagerty? J.C. Taylor? American Collectors Insurance? Grundy? Heacock? Before you make any decisions, be sure you have all the facts in front of you.
  3. A word on marque registries: I would think your best hope would be to contact the particular club or clubs representing your marque. Ask them if they maintain a registry, and ask how you might check it for your car. For example, my club (the Hudson club; H-E-T) has maintained a registry for many years. I think it now contains about 5,000 cars. Registry keepers are assigned to certain years or models, and make it their goal to add as many cars as possible to their particular registry. Enthusiasts of a particular year or model often act as "agents" for their registrar, seeking out "new" cars that might never have been listed, so they can send them to the registry. In addition, owners' car information obtained through Club membership rolls is also added to the registry. Listings contain serial numbers whenever possible. And when a car changes hands, its previous owners' names remain in the system, so a chain of ownership can be established. The registry list even includes cars that have been scrapped, since this information could at least inform someone that he's come to the end of the road in his search. Of course the whole system depends upon the willingness of each car's owner to send in the information on his car to the appropriate registrar. Seeking out a club registry for one's particular marque, is indeed a long shot. But it's a start.
  4. Has this guy ever actually DRIVEN a car from the thirties? Many of us who've owned them for years are absolutely comfortable behind the wheel. But someone who has only idealized them from afar, having taken the wheel for the first time, may suddenly discover that they are a different kind of animal from what he's used to. The car's handling, steering, braking, visibility and a cruising speed of barely 60 mph in 75 mph traffic, may open his eyes. Find a sympathetic and trusting owner of a thirties car and arrange for your candidate to borrow it and get out onto the road for some firsthand driving experience. I'd say he should focus on something from as late in the 1930's as he can put up with. A car with overdrive (4th gear, essentially), a reasonably powerful engine, and of a marque that is not too obscure (when it comes to finding parts). Good hydraulic brakes, I.F.S., and electric (not vacuum) wipers are a plus. And he'd better be ready to learn how to tinker and maintain. My first car (back in 1964) was a '39 DeSoto and I lucked out; it served me faithfully as an everyday driver and I learned a lot while owning it. There are many good cars out there, but they improved vastly through the 1930's. Night and day between 1930 and 1940. Recommend that he buy a good solid late-thirties family car firs. Let him deal with the Isotta Fraschini later.
  5. A friend has a 1956 Hudson with power steering. Was the steering set-up the same between Nash and Hudson? (Yes, I realize Nash had a much larger turning radius.) If so, my friend could use some advice. He had a great deal of play in the steering wheel (3 inches). He had a very good alignment place get under the car and check all the steering hardware, and they said it all looked like new (just like the underside of the car!). They tightened up a thing or two but that was all that was needed. He sent the power steering pump and steering box to Lares and they rebuilt it. That helped a bit, but still a lot of play. I learned that worn rear trunnion bushings (?) can be a cause of loose steering, so my friend bought new ones and had them installed. Helped a bit, but still about 1-1/2" of play. Are there any Nash specialists out there who could offer any advice on what else to try? Or, do these '56 power steering setups just naturally loose? I'd be grateful for any enlightenment!
  6. until

    We thank those who attended the tour. Fifty-three cars, containing 97 drivers and passengers, gathered at the Burkittsville (MD) Ruritan Club, and embarked onto a route that proved to be 67 miles long. Later, 73 people partook of a tasty buffet dinner at the Blue Ridge Vol. Fire & Rescue in Bluemont, VA. The weather was dry but hot, so a few people drove their modern iron. We had all manner of orphan makes represented: AMC (several models), Corvair, Crosley, DeSoto, Kaiser, Mercury, MG, Oldsmobile, Packard, Plymouth, Pontiac, Saab, Studebaker, Thunderbird, and Willys (Jeepster). The Tour is a cooperative effort of five Maryland / Virginia / Pennsylvania chapters of national "orphan" clubs. Photo by Toby Turpin
  7. until
    The Orphan Tour is a driving tour for "orphan" (discontinued-make) vehicles, at least 25 years old. Each succeeding tour moves to a different location in the greater Baltmore / Washington area. The Tour is sponsored by five local chapters of national "orphan" clubs. This year's tour takes place on Saturday, June 5, 2021. It starts in Burkittsville, MD (north of Brunswick). It runs about about 65 miles in length, passing several points of interest, at which drivers may stop. It ends in Bluemont, VA. with an (optional) buffet dinner. The registration cost is $10 per car, and cars can be registered either beforehand or on the day of the tour. The buffet dinner requires a pre-paid registration. Although the cut-off date was May 25, contact us after that date to see if any dinners are still available. The Tour will be held, rain or shine. A flyer is available at the Tour's website, http://www.orphancartour.org/ . Click the "HOT" button for the flyer and the latest updates. For further information contact Jon Battle at Tourdirector@orphancartour.org .
  8. Please use this section only to list junkyards with older cars in them.
  9. Just a reminder that Hudsonites will soon be congregating in Winchester, VA. for their annual 3-day Hudson bash that's been going annually since 1964. This year, an Orphan Car Show & Cruise-In will take place on Saturday, as part of "Doc's Meet". So, tell your friends in that area to come out in their Packards, DeSotos, Mercurys and Oldsmobiles!Here's a link to the on-line flyer: http://cbc.hetclub.org/Docs%20Flyer%202021.pdf Questions? Call Joe Wood at (703) 618-4772
  10. Please use the Junkyards forum only for listing junkyards which still contain antique cars and parts.
  11. The decade from 1930 to 1940 saw perhaps the greatest improvement in cars, before or since. The closer to 1940 that you're willing to get, the better. Just compare: In 1930 you have 45-50 cruising speeds, somewhat primitive handling and (solid front axle) suspension, mostly mechanical brakes, bodies framed in wood, minimal creature comfort. By 1940 you have 55-60 cruising speeds (with more powerful engines, higher-speed axle ratios, early automatic transmissions, syncromesh shifting and overdrive) modern, independent front suspension, juice brakes, all-steel bodies that don't disintegrate if the car rolls over, and more comfortable and roomy interiors -- not to mention improved lighting, turn signals, radios and many other options not yet available for most 1930's cars. Night and day. I found my own personal sweet spot in a 1937 model which still falls short of being 1940-modern, but which can at least be driven in Washington Beltway traffic and on trips of several hundred miles. Yes, you could choose a vintage-1930 car whose lines you like (preferably a higher-priced model that will feature the greatest mechanical improvements of the time) and you could do some subtle modifications (in lighting, braking, axle ratios, and perhaps springing), and you might have something you could put up with as a daily driver. Then again, when you began to drive it you might realize your error. My suggestion would be to poll owners of late-twenties / early thirties cars, to ask their experiences in actually driving their cars on a regular basis, and over long distances. Go to some car shows, ask around your local AACA or other car club. Maybe you'll discover that there IS a car from your desirable era, which can easily be adapted to modern driving. Do your due diligence! And, best of luck!
  12. Please do not use this forum when searching for specific auto parts. The purpose of this forum is for listing junkyards which still contain vintage automobiles.
  13. Interesting discussion. I changed almost all the lamps in my car to LED's early in 2019 and have been happy ever since. (The headlight high beams don't seem to "project" out, as incandescents do, but that's another story.) I did use the electronic flashers, which are a great improvement over the old style flashers. I was told by the LED supplier (in England) that one must not mix incandescents and LEDs on the same circuit. However, my front turn signals are still incandescent while the rears are LED, and it all works! The LED tail / brake / turnsignal lights are brighter than ever, and the dashboard instruments are finally visible at night. Incidentally, I'm using a 6-volt positive ground system on my 1937 car, for what it's worth.
  14. If this is a 1912 Hudson engine, those could in fact be the spark plugs that triggered the acetylene explosions within the cylinders, which started the engine. The "Disco" self-starting system was used only in 1912, by Hudson. Several other marques used acetylene starting systems (which were made by several companies) during that period as well. Soon thereafter, the electric starter came along, relegating the ineffectual and dangerous acetylene starting system to the dustbin of history.
  15. Thank you for all your comments and suggestions!
  16. The frame of the rear window in my convertible is either aluminum or pot-metal. In preparation for the new canvas top, I sanded and polished to frame until the finish was highly chrome-like. I decided to clear-coat it to prevent corrosion. Being a thrifty kind of guy, I bought a can of Premium Decor Clear Gloss spray enamel (contains toluene and acetone). The next day it gleamed, and I took it (and the car) to the top shop. When I picked the car up a week or so later, my window frame looked awful. (See photo below) The finish had turned splotchy! I have no idea what happened, but it happened between the time I left the car and when I picked it up. I don't blame the top guy, of course. Can anyone offer a suggestion as to what happened? Now I need to fix the problem. First I need to find the right spray. Then I have to strip the clear-coat from the frame (which will entail removing the frame and glass from the rear curtain of the top) and remove the bad clear coat (with lacquer thinner or stripper, I guess). When that's done, I have to either re-spray with a different product, or bite the bullet and take the window frame to a body shop to have it clear-coated (but with what?). Then, somehow, I have to fit the window back into the opening in the canvas curtain and re-attach it. Or, maybe I'll just leave it on the car, in all its glory, as mute testimony to the wages of thriftiness. Anyway, any suggestions on a good clear-coat and/or refinishing technique would be gratefully received!
  17. Here are some outtakes from Fox Movietone News, of the staged arrival of a Nite Coach in New York. The buses had Pullman style berths and passengers were served meals. Because these are outtakes, you will see scenes being shot twice or even three times. https://digital.tcl.sc.edu/digital/collection/MVTN/id/6027/rec/116
  18. Nope, Hudson-only, from 1936-39. (1935 was a different shape). If it were mine, I'd simply put it up on Ebay and get what I could for it. And again, I'd suggest placing a notice on the Hudson Open Forum (see link above), along with a URL that leads to the actual Ebay ad. So that you'll attract some bidders. Incidentally, here is the actual power unit, remote switches and shift tower that would have been bolted to the transmission:
  19. So few of them are sold, that it's hard to establish a standard value. Do you have the entire setup? That would consist of the stalk that attaches to the steering column (with the actual miniature shift lever), the steering column jacket with internal raceway for the wiring from the switch, numerous switches that fit on the clutch and transmission, and the entire electro-vacuum power unit (with 2 cylinders) that bolts to the transmission. (There's also the special transmission cover and the accessory emergency gearshift lever that plugs into the top of the transmission in case of failure.) If you have all of this, it would be infinitely more valuable than just the steering column stalk with the tiny shift lever. Since it's so hard to estimate value, maybe Ebay is the best way to sell this. Take photos of all the components you have, and list the Electric Hand on Ebay. Then, go to a Hudson forum like the Open Forum https://forum.hetclub.org/ and post a message there, saying the unit is for sale and giving the Ebay URL. This should attract Hudson bidders.
  20. Has anyone had dealings with an antique car parts company in Lattimer, Iowa? A friend is interested in purchasing some antique parts advertised by them, and wants to know if the company is reliable. (No reason to think they're not; just checking before he sends money!) The owner's name is something like Paschell. I'd appreciate hearing from anyone who's purchased parts from these people. You can "message" me, or e-mail me at xxxdetailed@verizon.net (delete "xxx" before sending, please).
  21. Please do not use the junkyard forum to look for particular parts. It is meant only as a listing of junkyards around the U.S. which have large numbers of older vehicles for parts.
  22. Yours would be a model 40, which was the base level in 1940 and was available as the "T", the Traveler Six, "P", the Deluxe Six, or "C", Business Cars. (You may see one of these letters on the number plate, possibly located separate from the serial number.) Actually, only the T and P series were available as coupes; the C only came as a pickup, bare chassis, or panel truck.) All model 40's had the six-cylinder 3" X 4-1/8" engine, 175 CID. As opposed to the 3" x 5", 212 CID engine used in the other six cylinder cars. As to the engine number: a friend just told me that it should match the body number (which would indicate yours is a replacement engine). But, let's see if anyone else can jump in here with more information. Frankly, a lot of people remove the 175 engine and replace with a 212. Should be an exact fit (because they have the same block) and gives you a peppy-er ride. If you want to switch back to "original", you can always slide the 175 back in. If you're new to Hudsons, I heartily suggest your joining the H-E-T Club! https://hetclub.org/
  23. You may also wish to open up a discussion over at the Hudson club's "Open Forum", at https://forum.hetclub.org/ . The AACA forum is fantastic, but it pays to reach out to several forums when you have a Hudson! The first place you should inspect, when you get under the car, is the perimeter frame in the rear wheel well area. With any luck you won't have serious rust on the car but if you do, this is where it will happen. The good news: if you DO find that the frame needs repair here, you need only unbolt and remove the rear quarters and you will have full and easy access to the frame. As to the gas tank: there is a company now reproducing authentic tanks for the 1948-53 models, though they are a bit more pricey than, for example, a Ford or Chevy. (I think it's about $500 but sometimes they sell cheaper on Ebay.) There are still new sheet metal parts to be found but they are nowhere near as plentiful as the "wearing" parts, many of which are being reproduced. If you are not yet a member of the Hudson-Essex-Terraplane Club you may wish to join; the magazine is worth the price of admission alone. The biggest advantage is the network of enthusiasts, not to mention about 40 chapters (membership optional) which bring Hudson activities down to a local level. https://hetclub.org/
  24. If you haven't done so already, you might also want to post this question over at the H-E-T Open Forum, at https://forum.hetclub.org/discussions
  25. If the bucket's dented, the value may lie in the innards (reflector, socket, clips and lens). I'm afraid the value lies in how badly someone needs this stuff! Sales of these things are so few and far between, that no pattern of value can be seen.
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