Jon37

Yeah -- let's just get some confirmation of this, from the lips of an AACA official, before we make assumptions.

Thanks, I'll assume it's just someone's misunderstanding unless informed otherwise!

A friend who's registered his car at the AACA car show on the 10th, said that he'd heard that only show car owners are allowed to attend. I cannot believe that's true. I assume it's an unfounded rumor. Everyone's welcome to attend the show....right?

A friend who's registered his car at the AACA car show on the 10th, said that he'd heard that only show car owners are allowed to attend. I cannot believe that's true. I assume it's an unfounded rumor. Everyone's welcome to attend the show....right?

Parting out 600 vehicles, all-Mopar. Open by appointment only. Open Tuesday - Friday 9am-5pm Satuday 10am-4pm Pacific Time Sunday - Monday Closed. 46827 SE Wildcat Mt. Dr., Sandy, OR., 97055 503-668-7786 Video: https://youtu.be/JgLCGnyepdc

3077 Memory Lane / I-35 North Denton Tx 76207-4919 Webpage: http://www.ctcautoranch.com Phone: (940) 482-3007 E-mail address: ctcautoranch@ctcautoranch.com Advertises 3,000 American cars, 1940's to 1980's. See website.

Wayfarer, I'm not sure there IS a fuse block on cars as early as yours. Generally, fuse holders were wired into the individual circuits feeding radio, heater, etc. Some manufacturers put circuit breakers or glass fuses on the switch itself (Hudson did this on their headlight switch, for example, in the 30's, 40's and early 50's). As to turn signal flashers, try looking up under the dashboard. To avoid contortions, use a small mirror and flashlight so you can sit in the front seat and see the reflected underside of the dash.

You ARE disconnecting the ground strap from the battery whenever you're not working on the car. Right?

1. Are you sure it's vapor lock? Could it be that the coil is overheating? (Next time you head out on a hot day, carry a big of ice along. If the truck again stalls, use the ice to cool down the coil and see if the truck starts again.) 2. Do you have sufficient fiber spacers between the carburetor and the manifold? In my car I now have 4 gaskets, a metal heat deflector, and 4 more gaskets, all insulating the carb from the manifold. The other day I drove 2 hours in low-90's temperatures, and had no vapor lock, even sitting with the engine idling, waiting for a light. Whenever I'd turn the car off, it would re-start with no problems. I'm running 10% ethanol gasoline, and have only a mechanical pump. 3. If your truck has an exhaust damper make sure it rotates and isn't stuck, and that the thermostatic spring is working. (I'm not acquainted with anything newer than 1937 so maybe none of this information pertains to a '79 Ford truck!) Best of luck. You may have solved the problem but if not, keep trying. I'm sure your truck will run perfectly, before long!

Large junkyard with cars back to the 1930's. 1230 S 82nd Ave Eau Claire, WI Call (715) 832-7163 Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/pg/Cooleys-Statewide-Scrap-and-Salvage-166587450083137/about/?ref=page_internal Website: https://www.cooleysscrap.com/ Walk-through YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k3tQMckjrEA

If you haven't done so already, you may also want to post this message at the Hudson Open Forum, where a lot of Hudson and Essex owners hang out. https://forum.hetclub.org/

N3181 Bernitt Rd (776.49 mi), Tigerton, WI 54486 tel.: (715) 754-5885 Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/zebssalvage/?rf=955250867892943 Website: According to Vintage Truck Magazine (in 2016), the "yard houses 2,000 vehicles, of which at least 1,500 are from the 1920s to the 1970s. He told me that there are over 100 in the 1930s section alone. Most makes and models are represented and kept in rows, making shopping easier. Mike tries his best to keep the weeds under control during the summer months. It is best to always call ahead for a visit, because Mike is out sometimes searching for other vehicles down south. Mike allows browsing but only he can remove a part. Some vehicles have titles and can be sold complete. Finally, the only strict rule of the yard is no children or pets may enter the yard."

N6848 N Island View Rd (730.25 mi), Watertown, WI 53094 Tel. (920) 699-2521 Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Jacks-Auto-Ranch-304985152074/ Website: www.jacksautoranch.com "We have a large selection of old cars from the late 1930's to the 1960's and we also carry a large inventory of late model cars and parts. We have hundreds of Cadillac's in our yard from the late 1940's up to the early 1990's along with a large selection of used parts. These include Engines, Transmissions, Rear Ends, Axels/Shafts, Brake Parts, Windshields, Door Glass, and anything and everything that belongs in or on a car. Large Inventory of New Old Stock-N.O.S."

Car #182, the '27 Graham-Paige, is listed as belonging to Harry Furst, of Middletown, Pa. Harry died in 2013. He owned a number of antiques and classics over the years, many of them Packards, but his obituary reported that his most prized automobile was a 1929 Graham-Paige 827 Victoria Coupe -- which he owned until the time of his death, I believe. The Parade of Progress printed program may have been correct, and the '27 that they listed was one of Harry's earlier acquisitions. But the "1927" might have been a typo, in which case the '29 was quite likely in the show, and is most certainly still "alive". Harry once told me that he purchased the car from the owner of a repair garage or service station, in amazingly original condition. The garage owner was threatening to turn the car into a tow truck (which was common practice in the '50's). But Harry pestered and pestered the guy, and he finally relented and sold Harry the car. One thing that impressed me about the '29 Graham was that it has "factory" automatic backup lights.

Micmac, for your own benefit you should start a new topic, under the "Hudson Essex Terraplane" category, devoted to your need for parts. Instead, you have attached your message to a year-old discussion about parts for sale by someone else. I am afraid your message won't be seen by many. In addition to posting your needs here at the AACA forum, you might also want to post a message at the Hudson Open Forum, which attracts a large audience of Hudson folks. https://forum.hetclub.org/

You might also ask this question on the Hudson Open Forum. A large number of Hudson enthusiasts hang out there, and perhaps some of them could answer your question (or might even be acquainted with the car in question). It's pretty easy to sign up for the Forum, just give your e-mail address and invent a password. https://forum.hetclub.org/

Before you began working on the fuel sending unit, did you disconnect the battery cable or the ground cable? If so, that would be the one condition that changed from "before", so I'd concentrate on that. I'm with Bloo: check any cable clamps you disconnected, and make sure they (and the battery terminal to which they're attached) are clean and bright (use a battery terminal brush), then tighten the clamp firmly around them. If you didn't tighten the clamp (or you simply put the cable clamp over the terminal and gave it a twist until it seemed tight) that could be your problem.

I bought a full set of LED lamps for my 6-volt, positive ground, 1937-vintage automobile from Classic Dynamo & Regulator Conversions in England: http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/online-shop-for-led-bulbs-and-light-boards-etc.php and have been generally happy with the results. My single taillight lamps are dual "filament" so the brighter "filament" shares both brake and turn signal duties. I did use the LED flasher unit sold by this company, and the flashing rate is very regular. I ordered dual "filament" taillight bulbs, license plate light, instrument lights, fender lamps (used for turnsignals) and headlights (which feature the "American Pre-Focus" 3-hole mounting flange as original). It's possible that some American suppliers may sell the same LED lamps (thus making shipping a bit less expensive) but since a friend had ordered from this company, I did the same. You can address questions to the owner, "Peter", at info@dynamoregulatorconversions.com

If you haven't done so already, I would suggest also posting this question at the Hudson Open Forum, https://forum.hetclub.org/

The junkyard is "All American Classics", 15209 NE Fourth Plain RD., Vancouver, WA 98682 USA. Website: https://www.allamericanclassics.com/

Unfortunately, the original poster did not name the junkyard. I assume it is E Z Pull & Save Auto Parts, 2401 Summer Valley Rd., New Ringgold, PA 17960, tel. 570-386-2171. Website at http://www.joesusedautoparts.com/ez-pull/

In the midst of the Pine Barrens is this auto graveyard with cars that date back to the 1950's. I used to roam this place back in the mid-1970's but unfortunately the cars that have been there from those years, are rusting into the ground. Still, there may be stainless trim, hardware and mechanical parts that are worth salvaging. And of course the cars from the 70's and newer, will have a lot of salvageable parts. As far as I know, this is still a free-range junkyard; you can roam at your leisure. Here is a video that gives some idea of what's to be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qLtoE1DCZhM . Address is 58 New Rd, Tabernacle, NJ 08088 (also listed as Vincentown), telephone number is (609) 268-0365. This is the quiet, southern, sparsely-populated New Jersey that people don't think about.

Have you tried Donald Axelrod in Massachusetts? For years he has bought and sold complete headlights for pre-sealed beam cars. Donald Axelrod 35 Timson St. Lynn, MA 01902 781-598-0523

The granddaddy of antique car junkyards. Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/pages/Easy-Jack-Sons/162303500455787

If you don't get some answers soon, you might want to pose that question at the Hudson Open Forum, at https://forum.hetclub.org/