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rhurst

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  1. Just found out that the 1936 Railton added a pump to give the engine extra oil. Would this solve the problem when running at higher RPM's? How would this work? Robert
  2. Rusty, You mentioned not designed for high speed use. I thought Hudson was the premier race car in it's day and I am sure they were going over 50 mph. Robert
  3. Thanks Rusty, I'll check for a leaky head gasket and the cylinder compression. Robert P.S. I've almost sobered up after drinking the case of wine to get my corks for my Hudson clutch. You were right everything seems better now......
  4. Looking to buy a 1936 Hudson 8 and was wondering if anyone has any experience with this car concerning the engine or other parts of the drive train. I really need to know what I need to be checking before I buy. Thanks Robert
  5. Looking to buy a Railton 1936 in the St. Louis area and need to find a car inspector that is familiar with the Hudson 1936 8 cylinder driver train. This car was made in England and has the 1936 Hudson 8 engine and drive train. Looking for a car inspector that is familiar with this era Hudson. Any help would be appreciated. Robert
  6. Hi Howard, I was really looking for one front hub and one rear hub. The front hub is 8 inches in diameter and has 12 bolts Is that what you have? Send me a photo here or at my e-mail. rhurst@nternet.com Thanks Robert P.S. What is the history of the axle and what do you have in it?
  7. I don't have a model 12. I found this strap on E-bay and while at Hershey identified it as a Packard passenger strap from a 1937 1507. Looking for a match to use on my 1923 Hudson. Robert
  8. I'm looking to buy a passenger strap from a 1937 1507 Packard. I have one and need another. It has a very unique metal attachment that I was told was found only on this model Packard. Photos attached. Robert
  9. Looking to buy a throw-out- bearing to replace mine in my 1922-23 Hudson Super 6. Not sure if I have the original installed but it is giving me issues so thought it best to replace it. Does anyone have a tip or suggestions as to how this is done? Robert
  10. Thanks Rusty, I looked in the Hudson repair manual about a "brake" on the clutch and that you have to press it all the way down to unlock but nothing is mentioned about it. You are the first person to mention that and that is the only way my clutch will work. Maybe someone before me put a different mechanism in my clutch. I really like your idea of getting more corks so I have started drinking my first case of wine and believe it or not I have forgotten all about my ??? oh clutch. Robert
  11. These are photos of my cap for a 1922 Hudson Super 6. Will yours fit? If so let me know how I can purchase one. Robert
  12. Thanks you for all the great information. I have drained the clutch and looked into the access hole and found that the clutch plates were separating. I would guess that the "sticking" issue is not mine. In order to get the clutch to work I have to really stomp down on the pedal. We have adjusted the pedal height to get the greatest movement of the throw-out bearing and then got no clutch at all. We went the other direction with less throw-out movement and got it working again. How would I know if the corks are falling apart? When I drained the fluid it came out clean. Using the special fluid from Wildrick. Talking with him he thinks I need more space in the clutch for the plates to move and I need to bore it out. The problem I am having started on the day I received the Hudson from Denmark. Have not been able to find out if they did any work on the clutch when it was there so it is a discovery problem. Robert
  13. Has anyone rebuild a Hudson 1920's clutch with modern materials instead of the corks? I live in Louisiana and the humidity may be affecting the corks in this clutch. My mechanic wants to rebuild it with more modern materials. Does anyone have an experience with this? Robert
  14. Thanks, It is my guess that they are the same up until they got 4 wheel brakes. Robert
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