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Everything posted by midman

  1. I’ve heard of only a couple of ways to get a title for bill of sale transactions in PA. A bill of sale alone in PA means nothing to the PA DOT. One is the most expensive but fully legitimate way. There is a legal process in PA where a judge will declare you the legal owner of the vehicle and you will receive a court document requiring the DOT to issue a title in your name. It requires a chain of custody, and depositions from all known owners as well as the earlier mentioned stolen vehicle search. I did this once and it cost me over a thousand dollars for a pretty straight forward situation. Of course I needed a lawyer to navigate through this. PM me if you want his name. He was a good lawyer (believe me I don’t say that often). The other I’ve been told about but never done myself is some routine where you acquire registration documents from Vermont and then take them to the PA DOT and receive a title. If you do an internet search you will find the steps people have taken. Good luck.
  2. Great project, I’ll keep watching the progress.
  3. Dave, Finally got to digging for the filter brackets. Is this what you’re looking for? Did you get the other print for the wiper?
  4. Dave, It looks like it is really coming along. Very nice. I do not have the right side linkage either but I have the print so I plan to fabricate a set one of these days. Let me know if you want a copy of it.
  5. Hi Dave, Don’t give up on me. I haven’t been very active the last few weeks. The flu hit me hard. I’ve been out to the garage a couple of times but didn’t find the right box for the brackets. I’ll find them. Chuck
  6. Trimacar, I know what you mean about the foam. One of the few things I THOUGHT didn’t need work on my 31 Buick was the upholstery. Well as soon as I took the bottom cushion out a cloud of black dust enveloped me. This is what 40 year old foam looks like. It’s that pile of black dust on the floor.
  7. Hi Dave, I went through the drawings but unfortunately I do not have the 2 you are looking for. I think I have a set of oil filter mounting brackets though. I'll be out in the garage tomorrow and I'll take a look. That is assuming the filter is the same for 60 and 90 series cars. I will look at my restoration pictures out in the garage too. I might have taken a picture of the wiper motor lever assembly before I put it back together. I'll Email you if I find anything. Chuck
  8. I came across this in an upcoming auction of old car pictures. It looks to me to be a modified Buick roadster or convertible. Kinda neat looking. Here is the auction if you are interested. https://www.auctionzip.com/auction-catalog/ORIGINAL-AUTOMOBILE-VEHICLE-PHOTOGRAPHS-MEMORABILIA-AUCTION_8HIJIU92ST/ Anyone out out there know anything about it?
  9. Tony, I recently finished my 31 90 series motor. These are the only pics I found that I took of the pickup. Chuck
  10. Vic, I would replace the filter. Bob’s Automobilia sells a spin on conversion housing that looks like the original filter. 30 weight oil should be fine. Chuck
  11. I am getting lots of interest in these filter housings. I will respond in the order I’ve received enquirers on them. I may have sold all the E1/2 housings, but that assumes everyone pays. I will update what I have left here as soon as I have contacted everyone that wants one and payment has been received. Thanks for your patience. Chuck
  12. I have 2 each of the E 1/2 and L4 oil filter housings made for spin in filters. These adapters look to be well engineered and manufactured. I believe the L-4 fits some Pierce Arrows, and the E-1/2 fits Studebaker and others.. These came from the estate of the late Burr Ridley in New York. He was selling these for hundreds each. The L4 uses a modified spin on filter and comes with 2 of them. The first filter is the E 1/2, the lower pictures are the L 4 I am selling them for $75 each plus shipping. PM me if interested.
  13. Winds wiped out any money I made this year and then some. The forecast was for 5 to 10 MPH overnight. I woke up to howling winds I’ll bet gusting over 25, and my heavily weighted canopy blew into my neighbors van putting a dent in his door and trashing the canopy frame. Sigh......
  14. We are bringing some brand new engineered oil filter adapters for the L-4 and E-1/2 filters. These adapters look to be well engineered and manufactured. We believe the L-4 fits some Pierce Arrows, and the E-1/2 fits Studebaker and others.. Also some new Packard hubcap reproductions, and some other Packard items.. All of these items from a New York estate. We will also have some NOS 1939 Buick parts and some 1931 and 1939 Buick OEM parts. Finally we will have a group of early automotive literature and some original and limited edition automotive art work. Green field GCA17
  15. I really liked their kit. Just one word - PRACTICE- Rolling the grain is definitely a learned art, but after a few tries I got the hang of it. Everything else is basic prep and paint. Good luck.
  16. That is a beautiful area. I got some hard to find Buick parts indirectly from the estate. I’m sorry I never met the man, I’m told he was quite the character.
  17. Well I’ve decided to do two things this weekend. Take the loop out of the copper fuel line and add a switched fuel pump. The pump is mostly for starting the car after it sits more than a couple of weeks but it might help with the vapor lock too if I notice it. I’ll only run the pump at initial start for the most part. I hate grinding away when first starting. i had already blocked off the exhaust heat exchanger. I’ll report back. Chuck
  18. Lozrocks the fuel line is copper and definitely has a loop in it. I’ll look into your suggestion, it makes sense. Chuck
  19. The engine is really starting to run well as she starts to break in. The timing and carb are good now though I hate that Marvel leak at shut down. I am getting vapor lock during my last two break in runs though. It’s hot out here but not crazy hot. I think the 1932’s had a shield to help with this so I might fabricate one. Any other ideas out there other than shielding or wrapping the fuel line. Other than that she’s coming along Chuck
  20. Rebuilt the Marvel........again. The venturi are good. Tweeked the timing a little more. It’s running better. Still have to choke it slightly under load, but better. I’m still chasing a vacuum leak I think but I can run it up and down the road. I’ll check the plugs in the next couple of days and see how they look. Thanks for all the suggestions. I’ll let you know when I figure it out.
  21. “I won't offer you candy from a windowless van but perhaps I can entice you to the dark side. “ Yea, I’ve been thinking about that.
  22. So the car is running but I am struggling to get a good idle and under load I need to choke the engine to keep from backfiring through the carb. I double checked my timing, valve adjustment, and tried setting the carb. I can make it worse but I can’t make it better. As soon as I think I have a good idle it starts stumbling and wandering again. I’m done today but I’m thinking of two areas to check. 1. A vacuum leak on the intake side. 2. My distributor shaft has some play in it so I’m going to try to get to the bottom of that though I don’t know that it could be causing my issue. I was having this problem with the car before I rebuilt it so it is frustrating, but at least I don’t have the rod knock any more. Any other thought or ideas out there?
  23. It’s alive!!!!!! The filter in Bob’s housing is a NAPA 1061, threads right on, the Baldwin replacement is a B6, same thread size, will not screw on. Couldn’t figure out why so I’ll just keep buying 1061 filters. Anyway, finished timing, cold adjusting the valves, 12 guards of oil, and coolant, preoiled the top end, filled the fuel bowl and carb with gas, cranked it a few times then switched on the ignition. Small shot of starting fluid and boom she started right up! I was suprised that there was zero smoke out of the exhaust at start up. Have a small oil leak at that darn filter housing and a couple small exhaust leaks but oil pressure is great, no fuel or coolant leaks. Thought I had my camera on video for the start up but I still had it on camera. Anyway, have to fix the few minor things, put the rest of the car back together and start driving it to break it in. Hallealuah! Chuck
  24. I’ve seen the complete gauge set for sale occasionally, usually around $250 for used unrestored for the the whole thing. I’ve never seen a restored gauge for sale. Chuck