midman

Here is an overdrive unit for the 80 and 90 series I bought from Roger Fields years ago but I never installed it. It is grafted into the torque tube. No rear gears. Eaton motor has a dent in it. VERY heavy so prefer pickup or I can bring to Hershey. I paid a lot more but will sell for $300

Picture of exhaust manifold

Mike, I'm sorry but I do not have either one. I had a crank hole cover but that sold. Let me know if I can try to help with anything else. Chuck

It’s not a car but it has car in its name. I’ve been on the hunt for one so if you have one and are looking to part with it please contact me. Project or restored. Thanks, Chuck

Sorry but I do not have that light asswmbly

Chuck, The repaired one is a 3046. The other is a 3041. Here are pics of the 3046

Brad, I am sorry, I do not have any seats. I have a steering assembly but not the steering wheel. I think I have some steering control parts too. I’ll get some pictures and post them in the next couple of days

Hi Rand, Sorry but the new owner of the Buick bought all the carb stuff I had. Chuck

I sold my 1931 90 series so I have lots of parts to sell. Every car or bike I get starts me on a parts collecting binge. Anyway I can send pics as requested and I can deliver the parts to Hershey if you want me to hold them. I am selling this stuff for what I paid or less so there is not a lot of negotiating room unless you want it all. Rebuilt starter never installed - $225 - SOLD Rebuild generator never installed - $225- SOLD Original honeycomb core radiator, 2 to choose from. One has repairs to the top tank the other looks untouched. - $200 each ONE WITH REPAIRS IS SOLD The other radiator is a 3041 apparently fits a 60 Series - $200 Exhaust manifold. No cracks, not warped, but the outlet ears were repaired. - $400 - SOLD Clutch assembly missing one disc - $75 - SOLD Brake backing plates - $25 each Brake assemblies with brake shoes, 3 front, 2 rear. $25 each Intake manifold - $100 Oil pan - $150 Front brake cable, 2 available - $50 each speedo drive cable - $25 SOLD Shifter with housing - $50 Front headlight post, nice chrome - $75 Radiator cap, rechromed but chrome is heavy cutting the detail somewhat - $200 SOLD Radiator cap, original - $125 Distributor with new drive gear? - $150 SOLD Oil cooler - $100 2 shutterstat thermostats need rebuilt, both for - $75 SOLD Brake light switch - $35 Crank hole cover, needs rechromed - $75 - SOLD Timing gear, new - $250 Light switch assembly with cover. - $75 Kingpin set, new - $250 SOLD PaIr of rear wheel bearings- $75 There’s more that I haven’t gotten to yet so let me know if there is something you need.

Larry, It’s going to the Somerset area, so not too far away. Chuck

SOLD. I'm feeling a little sad for some reason.

Requested pics of inside rumble seat area and close up of radiator shell.

Alsancle, As requested, this was a couple of years ago before I dropped in the side mount tires. Notice there is lots of room in the rumble seat.

Video of car running.

After lots of thought I decided to put my 1931 8-96S Country Club Coupe up for sale. I am selling since my interest in the Buick has faded as I finished everything needed on it (sort of a sickness I know). I bought this car about 10 years ago at Fall Carlisle. It was the typical story of sitting untouched for decades. This one was special for a couple of reasons. First, I could not find rust or body damage, and second it came with a treasure trove of blueprints and drawings collected by a Buick engineer, who was the owner that had sat on it for years. It ran and drove but it was tired and had a quicky repaint over the original paint. He had redone the interior upholstery and the top but that was about it. It showed about 56,000 miles at the time. Here is what I’ve done over the years with the objective of having a nice driver. Repaint in the original colors. This is a good paint job but not great. I had the fenders, running board aprons, and other parts I could disassemble hot dipped, and sanded everything else to bare metal. I had a local guy do the paint. There are some small blemishes but overall it is nice. The wheels should be body color but I had them powder coated before the car was done and the shade is wrong. The body wood is solid. I had some soft spots above the windshield which I injected with liquid epoxy and I patched one spot at the very rear of the car. I had some parts rechromed or renickeled, headlight shells, shifter, brake lever and some other small parts. The headlight bar is a repop. The radiator shell is not replated but not bad, same with the bumpers. I rebuilt all the brakes and mounted all new tires, including the sidemounts. I replaced all the wheel bearings. New wiring harness and added a turn signal assembly of the correct vintage. I also added an electric fuel pump for easier starts after sitting, and a master electric shutoff. I resealed the shocks, steering box and transmission (though the trans still leaks some). I had the rumble seat reupholstered in a black leatherette . I redid the wood graining on the interior. I replaced all the handles with stainless repops. The windshield raising crank assembly is starting to slip sometimes. The rest of the interior is what was done in the 1960’s and is still very nice I rebuilt the motor with new aluminum pistons. The machining, babbit work and cylinder head were done by Reeves in NY. I rebuilt the carb and fuel pump and retubed the heat riser. I blocked off the heat transfer at the carb and replaced the exhaust. Newly rebuilt generator and starter. I have an overdrive modified torque tube someone made years ago that will go along. I never installed it. I also have a fitted car cover that will go with the car. I eventually donated the drawings to the Buick Heritage Assoc, but I’ll send along digital copies. I have history on the car going back to about 1955. I will also send along all photos I took during restoration and use of the car. Sold as is. Asking $30,000 I'll add more pictures as requested and a video of the car running after first start this year. Located near Carlisle PA. PM me if interested or if you want to inspect. Please post any questions here.

6 volt low pressure pass through pump on a momentary toggle to prime before start, problem solved. I had the same issue before, now with 2 seconds on the switch she starts right up and no worries about over pressure or fuel pumping uncontrollably in an accident or failure

Whatya want to know?

Larry, If you haven’t settled on anything yet let me know and I’ll get you a price shipped commercial to my work in Carlisle where you can pick it up. We get good rates. I’ll need a weight estimate and where Mark will be shipping it from. Chuck

Yes Steve I did that first. I did not see a change until I replaced the tubes in the heat riser itself though. Chuck

Steve, I was struggling with getting my 31 to idle and run smoothly. It ended up that I had a couple of holes in a heat riser tube. I couldn’t see them until I ran a scope through the tubes. I replaced them and it solved the problem. It might be worth checking if you haven’t yet. Chuck

It is running well now. I was still having problems dialing it in and went back to square one, double checking everything. Found some small holes in the heat riser tubes. After I replaced them it all fell in place and it is running good. I can hardly tell it’s running while idling. It still doesn’t like it when the weather is really hot but it runs. Thanks for all your help.

I pressed in the tubes and flared the one end and loctite sealed them for good measure. It runs a lot better but I’ll have to spend some time resetting the carb since I had messed with it so much. Much smoother running. Hopefully I can start moving on to other things soon. i appreciate all the help. Chuck

I noticed a bulletin from the Hershey Elegance that they are cancelling the show next year. Hopefully it is not forever. That was a great show and I attended almost all of them. The bulletin said something about not making a difference. Did the overhead become too much, or did the organizers have some other reason to shut down I wonder.

Hugh, After removing the old tubes I can see that the heat riser is basically a cast shell, hollow on the inside, and with holes in the tubes it can pull air from the linkage holes drilled on either side of the casting. Also, in my case I had not plugged the carb side of the heat tube, only the exhaust side so I'm sure it was pulling from there too. Chuck

Terry, You are lucky your cars don’t have these, that’s for sure. If I didn’t want to keep the car looking original I’d toss out the whole mess and put a downdraft setup in it. Chuck