intimeold

Members
  • Content Count

    251
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by intimeold

  1. Absolutely beautiful lines. It doesn't get any better that this.
  2. Yes a very interesting automobile. A friend had an SM, everything was great about the car; except the camshafts. He was told, that some camshafts had soft lobes. And of course everything was very expensive.
  3. This towing post, brings something out of my memory: I was about 16 years old; and someone gave me a 1953 Chevrolet Bel Air Coupe. The owner and his buddies decided to do a in-frame overhaul , rings, bearings, valve job. Well, they put it together and it would not get the engine to turn over. Then they got disgusted and let it set. The owner said I could have the car, if I wanted to learn to be a mechanic. They had the rods all mixed up. No damage to new bearings. put it together correctly and it was fine. But anyhow: Flat towing it home with a chain and pipe between the tow vehicle and the 53, something happened. My dad was towing me with a Chevy pick-up. I am in the 53. and all of a sudden, the car began to shake at about 50 mph. The left front wheel fell off. Oh my, too much excitement for this 16 year old. We got everything slowed down; and the finally stopped. We were able to find the wheel; of course this all was done under the cover of darkness. Just try any of that, today. The fines would cost a fortune. intimeold
  4. After an automatic transmission has been properly rebuilt; it is ready to go. It won't get better in time; it is now the best it will ever be. Assuming, the transmission rebuilder has properly taken it for a test drive; and confirmed everything is OK.
  5. I can speak to this post; as we have had 2 Subaru's, with their CVT. Wife has had 8 new model Subaru's, from the WRX to the Forester. The first Subaru for us was a 1998, 2.5 RS, the one patterned from the Rally cars; and the first CVT for us was a 2014 Subaru Forester.. I was skeptical, at first; but within minuets of driving that car; I was amazed. Quicker pickup from a stop (Yes, I said quicker), and the smoothness is unbelievable. And actually better fuel mileage; than her previous 2010 Forester with conventional automatic transmission. No issues of any kind. We lave a long driveway, out in the country, and Snow country. I never have to plow to get the Subaru out in the winter. I do put dedicated Winter tires on; because of the amount of snow we do get. but really those tires look a lot like All-Season tires anyway. Jump ahead to 2018. She bought a Subaru Crosstrek, loaded up with a lot of goodies and Subaru's Eyesight; and it has the CVT. Smaller engine than the Forester; but lighter car. This car is equally amazing, coming from a 4 year old car, the 2014. It is quicker than the 2014; though not a high performance car. The CVT is awesome. We live in a mountainous area, Allegheny Mountains of PA; hardly any flat land driving and she gets 34 mpg in the Winter. The Crosstrek is a smaller car, but very capable for camping or hauling sports equipment, etc. My advice to you is go to any dealer and take a long test ride in whatever Subaru model, that fits your lifestyle. And again, never had any mechanical problems, with any of those cars. intimeold
  6. Mark, Ok, Thanks for the update "Only when the clutch depressed" I saw this only once in my experiences, It was on a Plymouth Roadrunner ; and the clutch was replaced The replacement pressure plate, was somehow, made thicker or higher, or whatever. But when the replacement pressure plate was removed and a Chrysler part number pressure plate installed, the noise at fully depressed pedal went away. I am NOT saying that is your problem. But if the starter Bendix is somehow over size, It might somehow touch the pressure plate,flywheel. I don't know. But I would be matching "metal contact" marks up. If you had your original starter rebuild: Extra shimming or alignment should not be the problem. Assuming the bolts are tight. Again, match the metal to metal contact marks up! If there is a noise, there are marks on something. And then go ahead from there. intimeold
  7. Mark, I like your posts, I, glad I was able to help on the Seville From your picture, you have the inspection plate removed , not the flex plate; 2 different things 1. Did they actually remove the transmission, then the flex plate or flywheel? This is important to know this 2, Started bendix must be matched to the ring gear on the flywheel or flexplate Just to be sure we are on the same page, Do you have a standard transmission or automatic?
  8. Right, Mark, Don't get me wrong I do see your point. On the Seville, look back at the posts I am the one poster that was adamant, about checking the camshaft, early in the repair. I am glad you got it running to your satisfaction. I am coming from being a used car dealer, so consider my point: We never, or I should say, we tried to never put more money into a vehicle; than the vehicle was worth; or nobody wanted to buy. I'm not looking at a sentimental or a just to have vehicle; we look at it from a possible sale down the road, and how much we have in it. Just giving you another way to look a things. And to answer your question: Is the Chrysler 318 a good engine, Yes it is a great engine .
  9. MarkV, I would also stay away from this one. We don't see any uptick in value in this car at all, over the next years. They just had too many problems from the start. Maybe it runs good now; so just pay a "drivers" price for it and don't sink any money in it.
  10. Being a corvette owner, I am well aware of how "numbers specific " Corvette owner's can be. Not only 'numbers matching"; but how many of a certain Corvette were built with an array of options. Or even a combination of options. The trade magazines and blogs, really push these ideas. Some Corvette owners use the lack of certain options to "dig" at some owners; which I think is reprehensible. Your 1964 Corvette is a beautiful car. I really liked the paint and interior combination. I would have loved to have that car in my collection, just too little funds and space at this time. You, really presented it nicely. intimeold
  11. ah, the R-16 I worked at a Renault dealership after school, cleaning cars and prepping new ones. Before the R-16, we had R-8's and R-10's; which were rear engine and rear drive. The R-16 was revolutionary; with the front engine and front drive. We lived in the mountains of PA; and got a fair amount of snow back then. All of those cars, rear drive and front drive, were amazing in the snow; with just stock summer tread Michelin tires. Seemed like they would go anywhere in the snow. I am not going to say anything about the dependability of any of them, let's just end this note, on a happy note.
  12. Well, Get rid of the alarm clock! No really, Congratulations
  13. The pic of the Pontiac seats, caption, and the kid on the rear deck; could and surely would get you arrested today.
  14. WOW, every time I see the photograph, my mind just starts to wander. Does anybody know how we can magnify the view as to see better details? intimeold
  15. I had a 1955 Pontiac Starchief, power booster; rebuilt by ED Strain. It was perfect after he worked on it. I don't remember what type it was. But here is his ad. There are several types : THE AD FROM ED STRAIN , There are four main types of power brake boosters that we rebuild. There’s the Midlandbooster, the Bendix Treadle Vac and the Bendix Hydro Vac boosters, and the Delco Moraine Booster. We rebuild other types of boosters as well, but these are the four primary types of brake units that we work with. Don't just get a rebuild kit and do it yourself; unless you have done some before. But maybe you are trained on them. I worked on many types of braking systems in my career; but needed help on this one. Of course the rest of the braking system must also be in excellent condition to maximize the result. intimeold
  16. Great call, "Brass is Best" I remember seeing that view, from my inside, rear view mirror. intimeold
  17. Never good to see a restored car; crashed because of a mechanical failure. Hope everyone is OK
  18. The starter in the intake valley was on the older 4.7 engines. Not sure of all the applications that engine was used in. The Tundra, starting in 2007 used the 5.7 engine; and the starter is in the normal position, on the side of the engine, and bolting into the bellhousing/transmission. There is a 4.6 engine; not usually seen, in a Tundra; but available. The 4.6 is not the same as the 4.7, it is a more modern engine like the 5.7. Don't know where the starter is. Granted the starter in the V , and under the intake is not a good idea. But never had any in my shop, on the 4.7 Tundra that needed replacement; but the Cadillac Northstar engine was another story. But as somebody has already posted the Northstar had many more problems than the starter.
  19. I have always struggled to keep my sanity; when talking to someone who is not an avid collector of automobiles or motorcycles. Mostly when the person uses terms like ," Rare, Special, Custom, and the famous term, Classic. They have no idea that the terms; especially Custom and Special, are usually not always though a baseline line offering from a motorcycle or automobile company. I live in a State that brought out a licence plate , with "Classic" on it. It has lower time and other requirements , that an Antique Tag. Classic has a 15 year requirement from production date; Antique has a 25 year time frame. There are some other requirements also. So depending on your luck at the DMV or any special help from a notary; you can have a Classic car after 15 years of build date. That term Classic just makes my blood boil. These people don't even know what a Classic car is. I motorcycles, I guess the term Custom , does about the same thing to me. I''m sorry I was just venting.
  20. The pic in post # 16 , shows a different truck from the first pic; and the left front wheel in pic# 16 appears to be smaller too. Appears to be, is the key here. I just believe it is an optical illusion.
  21. Congratulations on your new trailer. With your flooring choice; keep it dry! From the pics and also from the ALcom/Ex specifications; it looks to be engineered flooring. I see plywood was available, at a higher cost; but this has the look of the standard floor. Go to the flooring, maybe on the tailgate; and see if the saw cut line (edge), is plywood, or if the edge will flake off in small pieces. From what I can see and I went to the Alcom/Ez site then to the flooring manufacturer Advantech. That flooring is moisture resistant to a certain degree. The Advantech is probably a product like Dry-Max from Georgia Pacific. I am hesitant to call it OSB board, Oriented Strand Board; because it does have better resin and glues than OSB. The better resins make it more resistant to moisture than regular OSB. Don't try to kill me here; because I have a new trailer with this flooring; and I did my homework. I weighed the costs of 3/4 marine plywood against this type of floor; and by treating it inside and a few coats of oil based Rustoleum. The coated side of this flooring is usually put Down, to ward off the effects of road water splash and ground moisture. Mine sort of looks undercoated with a rust proofing spray. It looks like that. I have another trailer, an older one with marine grade plywood; and I never hesitated to hose the trailer out once in a while; if I came home from a race and brought home some of the dirt race track. This new one will not be hosed out. Again, I painted the interior with Rustoleum oil based paint ( took forever to dry); because the new Latex paint is water based. And water swells up the engineered flooring product. So I would recommend you make sure what you have; so you take proper precautions. Go to the Advantech site, and maybe the Dymax site and others and study up on these products. You can tell by looking at the board itself; and if you see chunks and pieces of wood, pressed and glued together; you have engineered flooring. You notice I didn't call it OSB board; that was the early engineered board; that blew up when water ever got near it. It is water resistant not water proof. I am OK with mine; because I weighed the advantages (cost) to the inherent disadvantages.
  22. I have seen this problem in different engines before; and a few previous posters have mentioned ed the coil. The coil, breaking down, is a very likely reason for your problem. one of the first things I would have checked. The vacuum advance may cause similar problems, but not really a skip or a miss. Along with the coil; I have found condensers to act your problem. Sometimes a condenser, will go bad quickly and prevent starting; but other times the condenser can act like a faulty coil also. May or not be heat related, such as some coil problems. Condensers are not expensive, slip a known Good one in for a try. While there, check those points again; for pitting and proper adjustment. It is worth a try, I have had bad condenser as well as bad coils. intimeold