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Everything posted by intimeold

  1. Right, Mark, Don't get me wrong I do see your point. On the Seville, look back at the posts I am the one poster that was adamant, about checking the camshaft, early in the repair. I am glad you got it running to your satisfaction. I am coming from being a used car dealer, so consider my point: We never, or I should say, we tried to never put more money into a vehicle; than the vehicle was worth; or nobody wanted to buy. I'm not looking at a sentimental or a just to have vehicle; we look at it from a possible sale down the road, and how much we have in it. Just giving you another way to look a things. And to answer your question: Is the Chrysler 318 a good engine, Yes it is a great engine .
  2. MarkV, I would also stay away from this one. We don't see any uptick in value in this car at all, over the next years. They just had too many problems from the start. Maybe it runs good now; so just pay a "drivers" price for it and don't sink any money in it.
  3. Being a corvette owner, I am well aware of how "numbers specific " Corvette owner's can be. Not only 'numbers matching"; but how many of a certain Corvette were built with an array of options. Or even a combination of options. The trade magazines and blogs, really push these ideas. Some Corvette owners use the lack of certain options to "dig" at some owners; which I think is reprehensible. Your 1964 Corvette is a beautiful car. I really liked the paint and interior combination. I would have loved to have that car in my collection, just too little funds and space at this time. You, really presented it nicely. intimeold
  4. ah, the R-16 I worked at a Renault dealership after school, cleaning cars and prepping new ones. Before the R-16, we had R-8's and R-10's; which were rear engine and rear drive. The R-16 was revolutionary; with the front engine and front drive. We lived in the mountains of PA; and got a fair amount of snow back then. All of those cars, rear drive and front drive, were amazing in the snow; with just stock summer tread Michelin tires. Seemed like they would go anywhere in the snow. I am not going to say anything about the dependability of any of them, let's just end this note, on a happy note.
  5. Well, Get rid of the alarm clock! No really, Congratulations
  6. The pic of the Pontiac seats, caption, and the kid on the rear deck; could and surely would get you arrested today.
  7. WOW, every time I see the photograph, my mind just starts to wander. Does anybody know how we can magnify the view as to see better details? intimeold
  8. I had a 1955 Pontiac Starchief, power booster; rebuilt by ED Strain. It was perfect after he worked on it. I don't remember what type it was. But here is his ad. There are several types : THE AD FROM ED STRAIN , There are four main types of power brake boosters that we rebuild. There’s the Midlandbooster, the Bendix Treadle Vac and the Bendix Hydro Vac boosters, and the Delco Moraine Booster. We rebuild other types of boosters as well, but these are the four primary types of brake units that we work with. Don't just get a rebuild kit and do it yourself; unless you have done some before. But maybe you are trained on them. I worked on many types of braking systems in my career; but needed help on this one. Of course the rest of the braking system must also be in excellent condition to maximize the result. intimeold
  9. I just watched the video, about Dennis Gage, and the Tims Special and Hudson Italia. Well I actually watched it 3 times. Great representation about the cars. I am thinking a different direction, than a car and motorcycle collector right now. Bear with me, I'm not trying to offend anyone. It makes me sick to see all of this destruction; which some of it could have been mitigated. All of the lives lost, families destroyed, and the classic autos we all enjoy, because current environmental policy's and pointing fingers. I am a farm owner with some forest too, and have done some logging in the distant and near past; just two years ago lastly. Also I do live in the East (PA) and up in the mountains. Watching the videos of the two fantastic automobiles; I took my eyes off the cars and looked at the surrounding roadsides, and forest (Just brush to us). While they drove those, they didn't pass one tree that worth anything. There wasn't a marketable "Saw Log "there. I understand the different climate and natural plant life; but around here we would Brush Hog all of that down; to make a healthy environment for some really nice, Good, Sustainable growth. We have done that in this area; and even taken old coal strip mines and planted sustainable and profitable, and healthy tress in place of junk shrub growth. All the while make a healthy place, for native wildlife to live. Believe me, if foresters in this area can get trees to grow in a barren coal strip mine; something better can be done; than what is currently done, where this video was shot. I'm finally getting a handle on what is really going on out in that CA area. By them. Whoever, land owners, government, ??, they are putting everyone at risk of these tragic brush fires. Someone has to take the reins and do some serious forest management. The naysayers will come back and say I do not mention the climate conditions. I will counter and say that is ALL they want to blame it on. There can't be a one sided approach. They are leaving so much fuel (burnable brush, worthless brush) on the forest floor, that these places are not safe to live near. I feel sorry for the people who live in those areas. intimeold saw·log /ˈsôˌlôɡ,-ˌläɡ/ noun plural noun: saw logs a felled tree trunk suitable for cutting up into timber.
  10. Great call, "Brass is Best" I remember seeing that view, from my inside, rear view mirror. intimeold
  11. Never good to see a restored car; crashed because of a mechanical failure. Hope everyone is OK
  12. The starter in the intake valley was on the older 4.7 engines. Not sure of all the applications that engine was used in. The Tundra, starting in 2007 used the 5.7 engine; and the starter is in the normal position, on the side of the engine, and bolting into the bellhousing/transmission. There is a 4.6 engine; not usually seen, in a Tundra; but available. The 4.6 is not the same as the 4.7, it is a more modern engine like the 5.7. Don't know where the starter is. Granted the starter in the V , and under the intake is not a good idea. But never had any in my shop, on the 4.7 Tundra that needed replacement; but the Cadillac Northstar engine was another story. But as somebody has already posted the Northstar had many more problems than the starter.
  13. I have always struggled to keep my sanity; when talking to someone who is not an avid collector of automobiles or motorcycles. Mostly when the person uses terms like ," Rare, Special, Custom, and the famous term, Classic. They have no idea that the terms; especially Custom and Special, are usually not always though a baseline line offering from a motorcycle or automobile company. I live in a State that brought out a licence plate , with "Classic" on it. It has lower time and other requirements , that an Antique Tag. Classic has a 15 year requirement from production date; Antique has a 25 year time frame. There are some other requirements also. So depending on your luck at the DMV or any special help from a notary; you can have a Classic car after 15 years of build date. That term Classic just makes my blood boil. These people don't even know what a Classic car is. I motorcycles, I guess the term Custom , does about the same thing to me. I''m sorry I was just venting.
  14. The pic in post # 16 , shows a different truck from the first pic; and the left front wheel in pic# 16 appears to be smaller too. Appears to be, is the key here. I just believe it is an optical illusion.
  15. Congratulations on your new trailer. With your flooring choice; keep it dry! From the pics and also from the ALcom/Ex specifications; it looks to be engineered flooring. I see plywood was available, at a higher cost; but this has the look of the standard floor. Go to the flooring, maybe on the tailgate; and see if the saw cut line (edge), is plywood, or if the edge will flake off in small pieces. From what I can see and I went to the Alcom/Ez site then to the flooring manufacturer Advantech. That flooring is moisture resistant to a certain degree. The Advantech is probably a product like Dry-Max from Georgia Pacific. I am hesitant to call it OSB board, Oriented Strand Board; because it does have better resin and glues than OSB. The better resins make it more resistant to moisture than regular OSB. Don't try to kill me here; because I have a new trailer with this flooring; and I did my homework. I weighed the costs of 3/4 marine plywood against this type of floor; and by treating it inside and a few coats of oil based Rustoleum. The coated side of this flooring is usually put Down, to ward off the effects of road water splash and ground moisture. Mine sort of looks undercoated with a rust proofing spray. It looks like that. I have another trailer, an older one with marine grade plywood; and I never hesitated to hose the trailer out once in a while; if I came home from a race and brought home some of the dirt race track. This new one will not be hosed out. Again, I painted the interior with Rustoleum oil based paint ( took forever to dry); because the new Latex paint is water based. And water swells up the engineered flooring product. So I would recommend you make sure what you have; so you take proper precautions. Go to the Advantech site, and maybe the Dymax site and others and study up on these products. You can tell by looking at the board itself; and if you see chunks and pieces of wood, pressed and glued together; you have engineered flooring. You notice I didn't call it OSB board; that was the early engineered board; that blew up when water ever got near it. It is water resistant not water proof. I am OK with mine; because I weighed the advantages (cost) to the inherent disadvantages.
  16. I have seen this problem in different engines before; and a few previous posters have mentioned ed the coil. The coil, breaking down, is a very likely reason for your problem. one of the first things I would have checked. The vacuum advance may cause similar problems, but not really a skip or a miss. Along with the coil; I have found condensers to act your problem. Sometimes a condenser, will go bad quickly and prevent starting; but other times the condenser can act like a faulty coil also. May or not be heat related, such as some coil problems. Condensers are not expensive, slip a known Good one in for a try. While there, check those points again; for pitting and proper adjustment. It is worth a try, I have had bad condenser as well as bad coils. intimeold
  17. Yes, of course We may see this car "vin" resurrected someday. intimeold
  18. Sad to see a car, that was at least presentable in 1978 ( the dash plaques, pop riveted to the cowl); to look like this today. Of course it is worth something; probably a 1937 Buick owner, out there needs a parts car. To restore this car today; the restoration $$$ costs would far exceed the finished value. intimeold
  19. I was a Ford service technician during the mid to late 1980's; saw every known problem a Ford could have. Your problem: When I stop, I need to keep my foot on the accelerator to keep the car from stalling. Pretty easy to diagnose, if it were in my shop. Not familiar with the after market ignition; the stock ford will work great, if the system is up to Ford specs. Yours may be good, but without checking it I am Not commenting on it. 1. I would make sure there is not a vacuum leak. Those cars sometimes had a vacuum "tree", on the intake manifold somewhere, to have a source of vacuum to operate something, like a vacuum brake booster. Check there first, a missing vacuum cap or hose off will cause the symptoms, you have. 2. Carb just put on ?? Check the base gasket to the manifold, or carb to manifold spacer. Saw this sooo many times; wrong gasket, or torn gasket. Same symptoms 3. The stumbling may be a faulty vacuum ignition advance unit. I don't have any idea what you after market ignition has . This won't affect idle and your stalling at idle; but it will affect drive ability when pulling out from a dead stop. 4. I also would go back and look at the PVC valve. Depending on the emission level and part of the USA where the car was sold new, determines the use of PVC valve on these early 289's. If it is a car that originally had a PVC make sure it is the correct one. This problem mimics your symptoms. Some 1966 289 Mustangs had PVC valves. A PVC valve is Not a one size fits all. 5. Of course maybe an intake manifold gasket problem. 6. Maybe something else, but from the owner's remarks, which I added to my post, I am looking first at a manifold/carburetor problem; gasket, hose, valve, a leak somewhere. intimeold
  20. I just love the look of these cars, and I too would have thought they would bring more money. But of course the blue one selling for, under $100,000, is still out of my price range. The closest I have gotten to the Lincolns was a 1940 Mercury; and I loved that car also.
  21. There were any aftermarket companies, offering a full array of speed parts in the late 1950's and 1960's. If your parts do not have a company logo, your only shot at identification is finding someone that has the same set in original packaging. intimeold
  22. Just reading the above posts; you may do better by passing on this car. To much time and $$$$ to rebuild something that has limited appeal. Don;'t get me wrong, I have owned 4 - door Chevy's and others , but never spent much for them. Great cars to drive, but hard to recoup and money spent on them. Buy them in running or near running condition, and have fun with them. Your car, is going to need lots of everything.