intimeold

Yes Mercury

You didn't mention, if the idle speed adjustment is controlled by a screw adjustment; or an electric solenoid. If the idle speed is controlled by some sort of mechanical screw or like item; when you turn the ignition off the idle falls back to the hard setting of the screw. Which may be holding the idle just a bit too fast. On the other hand; if there is an electric solenoid controlling the idle speed; when the ignition key is turned off, this allows the solenoid to collapse, thus allowing a much lower setting . So when you energize the key and solenoid; the solenoid is controlling the idle speed. Turn the key off and the adjusting screw, (that we talked about earlier) can be set much lower to actually stall the engine. Send a picture of your throttle linkage at the engine; and we can get a better idea of what you have. And the solenoid can be used on fuel injection or carbureted vehicles. I purposely, jumped past all the other things that should be checked too; and only focused on the base idle adjustment. intimeold

WOW, Thank You We have had that trunk for years and never had a definite account of what it fit. Your pictures really help. intimeold

Great topic. Of course there are different views on this subject but when it really comes down to it, the owner has the right to do what he/she wants to do with their parts or machines. The Purist is offended when vintage cars motorcycles or whatever are cannibalized. The street-rodder, resto-modder, is trying to make a machine that is more drivable that a 50 + year old machine. And of course, a safer machine at road speeds of today. A 50 + year old machine may be restored to exact original specs, at a high $$ cost, which is great. It may be driven a little, and showed as a historical piece. On the other hand the resto-modder is going to drive that machine. And maybe more people will see that machine, because it is able to be driven, like a new car. Not everybody will be pleased. If the resto-modder offers up some hard to find parts, that may allow the authentic restorer to finally get his/her machine finished. Just recently I was able to get a restorer a very rare, actually non-obtainable part for a limited production motorcycle early 1930's, he was looking for this part for decades. That part only became available because of restoration could not be completed. Some machines are destined to be donors, for others to survive. intimeold

Too early to be confused, only 4:50 am. Coupe, Sedan, Pillared Sedan!

I'm in the camp of, Ford 1957

We have a Potter trunk that the original owner's family said it was on his 1937 Chevrolet coupe. But , thanks to this forum; now we know it was a 1932 accessory. The Green Potter decal is still inside. 38 inches wide, 12 inches deep, sorry I don't have the height here tonight. Question is: What other applications would this trunk be compatible with? I believe it is too wide for a Model A Ford. Is there a book or listing for these trunks? intimeold

Frank DuVal I guess I should proof read my posts. Thank You for catching that

On a Ford in the late 60's and 70's always look at the serial number or engine tag. The 1969 Ford Mustang should have the 250 cu in . But I worked at Ford in the years this car was produced. And the 200 cu in was available in 1970 along with the 250 cu in. But, and there is always a But, in production Dates of some Ford engines. These engines are so similar that, depending what engine they had at the factory on the specific day, the car was made; that is what the car got. I remember seeing the 302 V8 with 289 cylinder heads, 289 was cast into the cylinder heads. You may have a late production 1969, that got a 200 cu in. Not a big deal at all, those engines all worked pretty much the same. The 170/200/250 engine is a great engine. It is so simple to work on. We did a fair amount of valve jobs on these back in the day; and always check the valve guide clearance, as the guides had a tendency to get enlarged or just worn out. We were starting to see the effects of less lead in gasoline back then. Later engines had harder valves and better valve guides. Head gasket surface and cylinder block deck surface should be checked also, any time the head is taken off. The cast iron heads and block are very durable but a machine shop can true them up, with a moderate cost. You can do the job at home in the driveway; but spend a few $$ and take the head to an automotive machine shop. Why skimp and not be sure if the guides are good or the deck surface won't hold a good head gasket properly. And don't even try this job without a torque wrench. You have a good engine there, treat the repair seriously and that engine will out live you. intimeold

Thank You, for all the members here; on identifying the dog dish hubcaps. And super fast replies. oh yea, everybody has a little detail difference or so; but I had no idea of what they are. Thanks again intimeold

Keiser, Thank you, you got it I just searched ebay, for the 57-58 Plymouth hubcaps, and saw one seller, listing them as 1957-58-and 59, Is there something to that? I am just asking, I don't know

I have had this set of dog-dish hubcaps for many years; but just stumbled upon them again today. I don't know what they fit. the first 2 pics are setting on a ruler, the left side starts at zero. in the last pic the rectangles look black, they are Not black, that is a camera shadow Thank You, in advance. For any ideas.

I have aligning studs for installing transmissions and intakes and such. But in the pic you submitted, notice the rounded/slightly pointed end compared to the original poster's pic. In the original poster pic, you can clearly see the squared off and knurled. An aligning stud would look like your pic. That knurling is a way to get a good finger/hand grip on the tool. The original poster's pic is not an aligning stud. Sorry

This is the handle for various seal drivers or light bushings. Usually seal driver Different sized drivers would be screwed onto this handle' then with a preferably soft hammer, you would drive the seal in. In a new tool kit, you would get maybe 2-3 different length handles like this and a whole array of different sized attachments to fit different tools. Each attachment was for a specific seal size or shape. intimeold

Yea, that # 5 question , could have been asked in a better way

Somebody, did a nice job on the coupe, very handsome car. The fender footstep is a mystery, it does show up on a Chrysler though intimeold

Yes a bead breaker. But that handle is not the proper size. It does not even fit the head. I still have a bead breaker, i little bit heavier that this one with a short handle; but the original owner was a very short person, too. And mine had a big rubber end on the back, for pounding the tire bead back onto the rim intimeold

That is a beautiful automobile; and looking at what we can see in the pics, a very capable chassis. Wish you all the luck in the world, find a new home for it. intimeold

Maybe we all should wear a tie, when we adjust the valves, or do anything under the rocker cover.

That Grover Traction Truck, seems to be hauling scrap cast-iron. That would be a very heavy load.

You have the shotgun now. Great Very nice gun and a good story

Well, Let's Not assume that this car is still using the Ford carburetor. See the Edelbrock air cleaner and aluminum valve covers. What is under that aftermarket carburetor? Edelbrock makes really good equipment and done so for decades. This is my professional opinion. 1. The dry and dirty condition under the hood of that car; could be a factor. The carburetor/ choke linkage may need cleaned and lubed. Doesn't matter, what carb is used there. 2. I am going to rule out a broken motor mount; even though these cars at that time had that problem. I had worked on this problem and actually experienced it in a customer's car. When you accelerate the car, the engine can twist, to the right violently, if you are going forward. The throttle on these cars would be forced Full-Throttle; until the engine went back down. This is violent; he doesn't seem to have that urgency. Maybe a little; but he would be really freaking out. If he was able to avoid hitting something. 3. If after checking the motor mounts; I would proceed to the choke and fast idle linkage; if the motor mounts were good. That car, with the original Autolite carburetor, has a multi step fast idle cam; which is controlled by the position of the choke plate. If the choke is not opening up ( not heating ) the linkage will stay on one of the fast idle cam steps. The choke and fast idle work together, to enrichen the mixture, when the engine temperature is not up to a specific temperature. I am saying all of this, not knowing if the Autolite carb is still there. But if it has been changed to a Holley or Edelbrock or something else; there is something similar that works about that same way. 4. It doesn't look like anybody has been under that air cleaner; by the amount of road grime on everything. I would like to see what is under the air cleaner. 5. This was a common problem, when these cars were actually driven everyday. Checking and cleaning, adjusting the choke linkage was part or regular tune-ups , that we did back then. intimeold

I worked as a technician at a Ford/Lincoln-Mercury dealership; when there were still 352's and 390's, 360 trucks, 428's still running around every day. Those engines are all FE style powerplants. Back then if and engine needed a water pump; it was for a coolant leak, usually. People would have thought we were "Padding" the repair bill, if we just did more than the water pump. So, where does it stop? Water pump leaking, would it seem rational to overhaul the engine too? The water pump; and it's function is far removed from the timing chain or timing gears, function. But in saying that; if You as the owner, would feel better by digging deeper in the engine if the miles are high, or some other reason; go ahead. You can't compare that style of engine to some modern engines that have water pumps, deep in the engine. The 352 engine, water pump is super simple to replace, unlike some newer models. intimeold

Somebody may need the actual inner working of the gauges. Sure the faces are rusty and probably not usable; but the internals may have been protected from the weather. intimeold

Recheck the valve lash clearance, period! Also check the clearance of the valve stem to valve guide clearance. If clearances are correct, the noise will not be excessive. intimeold