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Buffalowed Bill

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About Buffalowed Bill

  • Birthday 02/24/1944

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  1. I honestly can't say for sure, but the 34and 35 coupe bodies are different. So you take it from there. Where is your friend located and which door is he looking for? You should be able to find a serviceable door near you. We have two rear doors on a 35 sedan body that has sat out for years. They are both straight, but there is a bit of rust on the lower lip of both, but the R. side has the least amount of rust. I'm just mentioning these in case your friend gets desperate. We live in the Seattle area. I won't pull or transport. Good luck!
  2. At the risk of overdoing this thing, some might still find some of this interesting. Everything about these early Camaros can be broken down by percentage as per their particular features. One day I had some time to kill and just to satisfy my own curiosity I began to parse out the features to determine about how many cars exactly like mine had been produced. Some items can be a big trend setter especially if it was a rare feature. These numbers are just from memory and would have been approximate anyway. 220,000 1967 Camaros produced 10% Rally Sport=22,000 3% of 67's were painted the rare one year only Royal Plumb=660 The rest of the items like 210 horse 327, Powerglide, column shift, standard interior, ww tires etc. are all kind of a blur ten years after I did the calculation. What I came up with approximately 26 identical cars produced! Remember this was just to satisfy my own curiosity and certainly not because any combination of these features on a standard Camaro would make it any more valuable! With the proclivity of young owners to customize and tear them up when they were new, I figured that my chances of seeing another one like it was one step up from zero. About a year later I went to a big car show in Snohomish Washington. It was the last big car show of the year. Regardless of the odds there it was the spitting image of my car magnificently restored to original. Only in the Twilight Zone!
  3. In my collection I have a car with precisely this configuration. I've owned it since 1969 when I bought it from a cash starved friend for $400. The car had been in an accident early on and rebuilt. My friend bought it in the summer of 1967 for the price of the damage repair, $1200. He was the antithesis of a car guy and wanted me to look at it with him. He was willing to ignore the rough edges, so I told him to go ahead and buy it. Neglect and abuse was to be the it's plight for the next two years, until he blew the engine. At that time the car was tagged with it's name "The Purple Piggy" by a mutual friend. My friend needed wheels and I had some cash. I had planned to do a quick engine R&R and resell the car. I put a $75 used 283 in the car over the weekend and was driving it on Monday. My girl friend at that time told me she wanted to buy it. Long story she never paid me for it and he new boy friend, a used car dealer told her that the car was not worth the $900 I was asking for it. So I continued to drive it for the next ten years and putting another 125K miles on it before it got parked-so much for that guy's opinion. If a car has been good to me I try to give the same back. Today "Piggy" lives on, a much loved, Royal Plumb, Rely Sport-after my long duration, major refurbishment. It's not always how a car begins life that counts!
  4. Chris, When time allows please share any photos you might have for our enjoyment.
  5. Thanks Ed for being that authority figure that said what had to be said! It does mirror my own experience in three cars. There is no doubt the most frustrating episode was while I was doing a final detailing on my 1931 Studebaker Four Season Roadster for it's trip to PB (ironically 31 Studebaker like the poster). I wasn't satisfied with the level the K/S was reading the level in the tank, and thought it should be able to do better. Inside the garage in which it was parked the temperature was <65degrees. I added enough red fluid to bring the gauge reading up to the known amount of fuel in the tank. But when I moved it out in the sun the change in temp. began to bring the fluid level up really fast. When it got to a level very close to the top of the gauge it became obvious that I had a real problem! I quickly moved in back into the garage and removed about 1/2 of the fluid. The gauge seems to have a mind of it's own. The gauge and I now have an understanding-it can feature whatever it wants to on a given day. As for me as long as it reads something and doesn't go crazy, I'm just as happy as can be!
  6. Wouldn't it be a wonderful if this were really true! The fact is that during the the glory days of the 90's and 2000's good original and restored cars were being scooped up by street rodders and customizers in large numbers. They were solid and required less work. With the high cost of restoration and related services today few cars are being restored. That hasn't slowed down the guys who have big egos and little or no concern for the history that a survivor represents. I'm old, tend to be a purist, but I also consider myself a realist. Regardless of my own inclinations, I have to ask myself if any of our goals are really so out of step with the customizers and newer car fans. Survival of the hobby may depend on how we learn to coexist with those that we may not agree with. It seems to me that inclusiveness of all things car related has to become part of hobby. I don't believe that this means changing the goals of the AACA or other purist groups. However, it does seem we need to work on a more tolerant attitude.
  7. Studebaker still provided a optional oil bath air cleaner for it's 6cly cars up to until the end of production in 1966.
  8. I guess I need to respond. I've been around Studebakers all my life, 80yo this month, and I live in the foothills east of Seattle. When you say that you are interested in a 1950-51 Studebaker, the question leads to a huge number of questions. The two years may look similar but, there are a great many differences year to year and model to model. For brevity sake I'm going to assume that it makes little difference mechanically whether it's a Champion or a Commander as long as it is a serviceable driver. That leaves body style-4dr, 2dr sedan, 2dr Starlight Coupe, Business Coupe, Landcruiser and convertible. Before anyone can help you we have to know what body style(s) you will accept. We also need to know your price range and how far you might be willing to travel to get the right car. As for the Coupe Express, depending on condition and price you may have hit the jackpot. The rest of the car world is awakening to the same wiles to which you fell pray. They are simply great looking automotive masterpieces, that appeal to both stocker and customizers. While the 1937 gets most of the love the 1938 and 1939 are not that far behind. The supply is quite limited so proceed accordingly. I may even know the truck you just found, but haven't seen it in years. Values are all over the place, but IMO, depending on condition, and the quality of work that was done to it, <$20-25K would seem to be a bargain. You should scroll to Studebaker section of this form and pose the same questions. You should also think about joining the "Studebaker Drivers' Club" and the "Antique Studebaker Club." You should be able to get your questions answered through the forum, and you should be able to find the car you are looking for. Good luck! Bill
  9. Yes and no regarding rust. I live on the WC too and have 11 rust free Studebakers in my collection. But some I've owned since the early 60's. All cars in the 50's rusted. At least Studebaker was still body on frame and rust could be handled easily with a wrench rather then a torch. This forum is apt to be a bit tough on street rodded cars. Regardless $3500 is not that much money. Is it worth it? Who really knows? Are you ready to do some work on the car, because you know you will have to? If you put some sweat equity into the project and a little money you shouldn't loose much. As an old friend once told me "If you have an itch you have to scratch it." I can't really guess at how bad your itch is, but you keep coming back to this car so....
  10. I apologize for my snide response, it was uncalled for. You obviously didn't know, nor would you have known how rare these are. It may depend on how old you are and how much time, work and money you are willing part with. I looked up your age-you may just be able to preserver long enough to get what you want. Good luck!
  11. Thanks Tom for backing me up on this one. An alteration to most cars seem to be met with indifference today. However there are some cars that need to be given a fighting chance at survival. This car and similar 1936-37 President coupes just shout out to be saved. For guys like Tom and me, who have been around these things for a long time it's an easy choice to choose restoration, but sadly that is not going to be the case with many new owners today. Thank you sir for making the effort to do it right.
  12. Just my opinion based on fact based data. Do the car as original and do it right and it could be worth in excess of $100K, make your anticipated alterations and chances are that you would have to accept much less.
  13. I've mentioned this on other threads so maybe you will recall my experience. I bought some front end rebuild pars for my Lincoln Mark Vlll. Not a particularly old or rare car, but I thought it would be easier to order online and just push some computer keys. I've used RA in the past, quite a few times, with no difficulty. When I received my order I realized that while the ball joints were produced by the same manufacturer, the boxes were different-one looked older then the other. Upon inspection of the parts I realized that one was a sealed unit, as original, and the other had zerk fittings. If I had been dealing with a local FLAPS I would have just taken it back for an exchange or refund, but because I wanted to get on with the project and didn't want to have to wait, so I used them. Henceforward I made sure that I used local sources before shopping for anything on line.
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