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About RansomEli

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    Round Rock, TX

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  1. I'm sorry, but it is NOT a Scrambler clone. If it were, it would look like a Scrambler.
  2. I've owned a 1966 and a 1970 Rambler (actually, AMC). Daily drivers (before they became collectible). I've had something similar happen twice. Each time it was a bad head gasket. I hope that's not your problem, but check your water consumption.
  3. That should put the brakes on hot rods, restomods and custom cars being sold in Cali. Unless the car is equipped with a roll cage and airbags. No problems with restoring a car to its original condition, however. You should just be able to show the car is in the same condition as it left the factory when new. As I see it, this is a good thing for us originalists. Less cars will be restored-modified.
  4. JAK, Pre-1992 Suburbans are where the interest lies -they are climbing in value. The 1995s are still dormant as collectibles. If you go on AutoTrader you can find 1995 Yukons/Suburbans with a lot less mileage in nice shape for reasonable prices. If I bought a Yukon with 284K miles, I would plan on having to rebuild the transmission for $1,200-$1,800. Figure that amount into the purchase price. Now, if you converted it to steam, you'd have something.
  5. In the mid-sixties it was Car & Driver magazine. David E. Davis and Brock Yates. Each month I'd pedal my bike to the Chula Vista (CA) library and read the latest about sports cars and European cool stuff: Austin-Healey, Alfa Romeo, Triumph, Jensen. For a youngster growing up in a family with a 1954 Ford, 1966 Rambler and 1967 Ford Falcon, this was an entirely new universe. One issue they took a Pontiac GTO, compared it to a real Ferrari GTO, and declared the Pontiac the winner. I believed every word they wrote; later lived to regret it when I bought used Fiat. Interesting tidbits about David E. Davis: He is the co-author of the Chevy slogan Baseball, Hot Dogs, Apple Pie & Chevrolet. At the Chevrolet advertising agency Campbell-Ewald, he worked the Corvette and Corvair accounts. His partner was Elmore Leonard. Brock Yates was famous for (amongst other things) organizing the Cannonball Baker Sea-to-Shining-Sea Memorial Trophy Dash. Dan Gurney won the inaugural event in a Ferrari Daytona. When asked about safety concerns, Dan responded that, "At no time did we ever exceed 175 miles per hour."
  6. Not bad. From the side it looks BMW-ish. But the front gives it away as pure Z. No trunk space is a bummer.. Interior is a bit too much, also I give the seller kudos for chopping a Z and producing a nice car.
  7. It would be a fun forum. Don't know if I could afford to buy any of the houses posted but it would be fun to look. While we are at it, how about adding a "Tools for Sale" forum, too?
  8. KimD, Here's an option that is more expensive but a lot more practical. Lubing an antique car with a period-type grease gun is pure torture. Even using one of the air-powered grease guns is a pain. If your husband is going to use the grease gun to actually lube his car, then I strongly recommend buying a Milwaukee M12 cordless grease gun. I love mine - it makes greasing a car almost fun. The whole unit, complete with battery and charger is $199 from Home Depot (but look around for deals). If you already have a M12 Milwaukee tool and battery, then you can buy the plain unit for $99. I will never use anything else to grease my cars. Here are a few videos about the tool: And another: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LaM5lZm8c6c
  9. I have purchased two such manuals via eBay. Condition of each was used, not perfect. Paid $25-30 each. Franklin Club members have free access to pdf's of several Series 9B documents. They can also purchase reproduction of the following manuals: Parts Catalog for Series 9. 310 pages. $56 Instruction Book (early Series 9-A, dated 1917). 30 pages. $18 Manual for Trouble Shooters (Series 9A - 10B). 100 pages. $27 Instruction Book (Series 9-AB, dated 1924). 144 pages. $29 The value in your instruction book lies in its originality and condition. It's worth more than the reproductions, but not a whole lot more. Hope this helps.
  10. Great! Will get the lines and flare nuts from the Club. thanks for the advice. Will forget about the brake reservoir. And will keep everyone posted.
  11. Paul, Thanks for the advice. You've convinced me to install new brake lines, too. The Franklin Club website lists a source for the 1/4" and 5/16" lines: Federal Hill Trading Company. Will purchase a good quality single flare tool in order to do the job right. Eastwood seems to have a good one. Just found out that Federal Hill does not carry the long tapered flare nuts, described by the club as FCP-36: ten 1/4" and two 5/16" long tapered flare nuts. I'll contact the Franklin Club project manager to track these down. Will follow recommendation on HHFC website and get 25' roll of 1/4" and 3-5' of 5/16. One Q: can I put a brake fluid reservoir on my '29? If so, where does it connect to the master cylinder? The factory drawing #43995 doesn't offer much help. I appreciate everyone's advice.
  12. I'll double-check the brake lines per the advice given. Neal Kissel had worked on the car for the previous owner. I'll see if the lines have been replaced and everything looks OK.
  13. Update: I sent the master cylinder to Brake & Equipment Warehouse in Minneapolis. Tom Rasmussen and Jeff Hasslen have used them many times and I decided to follow in their footsteps. Received the unit back in about a week. Looks nice, although I won't know until I actually drive the car. Have all new brake parts from Jeff Hasslen. Need to flush the brake lines (they look good so I won't replace them) and install parts. Based upon your recommendations, I'll use DOT 4 brake fluid. Thanks for the advice. Will keep you posted on my progress.
  14. Something is very wrong. Did you use the correct proportion of activator to paint? If you used a reducer, was it 'slow'? In your 100+ degree heat you should not have needed any reducer at all. The checking of the paint indicates you may have put the paint on too thick and didn't give the previous coat time to flash off. In general, you meed to put coats on 15-20 minutes apart (although you are working in high-heat conditions) The fact that the paint is still soft in spots is very worrisome. Did you paint outside in the 106 degree heat and 80% humidity? That may be your problem right there -- the high humidity got into the paint. You may have to move inside where you can use de-humidifier and A/C just before painting to get conditions better. Ask a couple of local auto paint shops about your situation. They may have an answer for you. Keep us informed.