crazycars

Thank you. I will do a closer inspection. I'll bet you're right.

positive ground here

I purchased a partially restored 1930 Standard Roadster a while back and I noticed that the rear fenders don't have support braces. There are no holes anywhere on the fenders or the body for the braces to mount. Did Ford ever make Model A's without rear fender braces? All answers greatly appreciated!

Can a later model T Ford transmission be used in an earlier (1922) Model T ? I know there is a difference in the width of one drum but I don't know if this is an issue. All answers appreciated!

Rumor has it that 1936-1948 Chevy front wheel cylinders can be used in place for the unavailable 1950 ones. Any ideas about this? All replies appreciated!

Thank you, Frank. Let me lay out the assembly, take measurements and pictures, and disassemble. I will get back to you on the bows and will contact John.

I own a nice, solid 1915 Maxwell touring car but the top bows are a real mess. Wood bows have rotted and broken areas. The "sockets" or metal tubes the bows fit into are deteriorated, also. This work is beyond my normal mechanical/ body work skill. Does anyone know of a shop that restores top bow assemblies? How could they possibly be shipped? Any answers greatly appreciated.

trick is to get the engine running!

My newly acquired 1948 Lincoln V12 appears to have several stuck valves after long term storage. I am considering removing the heads to gain access to the valves but have heard that these particular heads are really difficult to remove. Why, i can't imagine. (rusty studs?) Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Detergent. Non-detergent oil is garbage.

THANK YOU! Finally, the information I needed.

I recently purchased a 1948 Lincoln Continental V12 out of long (not so great) storage and am finding this car a real mystery. Would someone kindly explain how the spark is distributed to the distributor caps as I cannot see a conventional rotor(s). Looking inside, with caps removed, I see a series of brass "tracks" surrounding a rotating shaft. Are these eccentric tracks touching the different posts of the caps as they turn? Help greatly appreciated. Thanks.

why not get it sleeved at a machine shop?

I successfully removed the distributor using the following technique: I backed off the four retaining distributor bolts most of the way then rocked the distributor body to move it away from the block. After applying a little WD-40 to the edges of the caps, I was able to partially remove the covers exposing the caps themselves. The extra space between the distributor and the block allowed me more movement to rock the caps and gently lift the edges with a pen knife. The distributor body was then unbolted and, after disconnecting the wires, lifted out. As I suspected, the points were frosted over. I'm hoping that a good cleaning and filing without disturbing the settings will allow the car to start. I will let you know. Thank you all for your comments and advice.

Would appreciate any help with procedure to access distributors to file frosted points on long stored 1948 Lincoln Continental. I have worked on dozens of antique cars but this thing is like something from outer space! Is there some special method used to get the distributor caps off? Pictures would be a super help! Thanks!