crazycars

trick is to get the engine running!

My newly acquired 1948 Lincoln V12 appears to have several stuck valves after long term storage. I am considering removing the heads to gain access to the valves but have heard that these particular heads are really difficult to remove. Why, i can't imagine. (rusty studs?) Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Detergent. Non-detergent oil is garbage.

THANK YOU! Finally, the information I needed.

I recently purchased a 1948 Lincoln Continental V12 out of long (not so great) storage and am finding this car a real mystery. Would someone kindly explain how the spark is distributed to the distributor caps as I cannot see a conventional rotor(s). Looking inside, with caps removed, I see a series of brass "tracks" surrounding a rotating shaft. Are these eccentric tracks touching the different posts of the caps as they turn? Help greatly appreciated. Thanks.

why not get it sleeved at a machine shop?

I successfully removed the distributor using the following technique: I backed off the four retaining distributor bolts most of the way then rocked the distributor body to move it away from the block. After applying a little WD-40 to the edges of the caps, I was able to partially remove the covers exposing the caps themselves. The extra space between the distributor and the block allowed me more movement to rock the caps and gently lift the edges with a pen knife. The distributor body was then unbolted and, after disconnecting the wires, lifted out. As I suspected, the points were frosted over. I'm hoping that a good cleaning and filing without disturbing the settings will allow the car to start. I will let you know. Thank you all for your comments and advice.

Would appreciate any help with procedure to access distributors to file frosted points on long stored 1948 Lincoln Continental. I have worked on dozens of antique cars but this thing is like something from outer space! Is there some special method used to get the distributor caps off? Pictures would be a super help! Thanks!

pictures and prices please

1921 Hupmobile touring car. I purchased this car several years ago from a closed restoration shop. The car owner had defaulted on payments and gave the car over to the shop. It has undergone partial restoration, to include; rotisserie chassis restoration including brakes, front end components, springs, stripping and painting, wood spokes and new tires/tubes. Body (off frame) was restored nicely with a good (not perfect) paint job. Note light damage to front left fender, pictured. Motor was completely rebuilt. I connected all lines, etc. and gave it the first start. Runs well, break in oil changed, keeps a steady 5-7 lbs correct oil pressure. Interior needs restoration. I have all the side panels (great for patterns), remainder of the top, side curtains. Missing are the following: spark and throttle steering wheel controls, spare tire assembly, tail light lenses, radiator badge, one radiator support rod, speedometer cable. Chrome work needs to be done. Car runs and drives, no leaks or smoking. Generator does not function so, for ease of starting, I am using a 12 v battery with lights disconnected. New exhaust system. Wooden top bows are solid. While not perfect, this is a "mostly done" rare and valuable car seldom seen among antique vehicles. Could be finished without spending a lot of money. No title, bill of sale only. $5000.00 located in RI.

I purchased a generator from a model 52 and it was too long to fit my 1926 model 50.

I've been reading about the post war Lincoln Continentals with the V12 motor and I've seen posts about ignition coil rebuilding at a cost well over $200. What is so special about these coils and why can't ordinary 6v (?) coil(s) be used? All answers appreciated! (prices on ignition rotors are crazy , too!)

Good condition. Measures 3 1/8 inches id. $35 includes shipping

I have a pretty nice 1915 Maxwell but the top bows and the "metal tubes" that hold the wooden bows are a real mess. I've seen recommendations for craftsmen who can fabricate new wood bows but are there any guys around who can fabricate the bows and the metal tubes that they are fitted to? All answers greatly appreciated.

Trini is absolutely correct. Turn it over one more time. #1 and #4 are companion cylinders.