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How do you wash your classics?


MyronGanes

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How do you wash your classics and are there any particular products to use or avoid with classics? It goes unsaid that two bucket soap and rinse handwashing is most appropriate but are there any other special considerations?

 

Thanks!

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Define classics - are your talking post WWII or pre WWII? can make a difference as to paint used and ability to withstand certain chemicals in assorted soaps. Lacquer vs, enamel or base coat clear coat or or or . I always hand wash, mostly wipe down with a wet cloth after using something to blow off or remove dust. dry with a soft towel and for hard to get places use compressed air (gently)  like on 80+ spoke wire wheels and to get the water out from behind trim rings on late 1930s 1940s cars etc.

Edited by Walt G (see edit history)
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7 minutes ago, Walt G said:

Define classics - are your talking post WWII or pre WWII? can make a difference as to paint used and ability to withstand certain chemicals in assorted soaps. Lacquer vs, enamel or base coat clear coat or or or . I always hand wash, mostly wipe down with a wet cloth after using something to blow off or remove dust. dry with a soft towel and for hard to get places use compressed air (gently)  like on 80+ spoke wire wheels and to get the water out from behind trim rings on late 1930s 1940s cars etc.

I have a few 50's cars and a '29 Nash. Would be great to know the ins and the whys of washing a certain way. Although I'd generally stay conservative with less potentially harmful chemicals anyway.

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34 minutes ago, MyronGanes said:

How do you wash your classics and are there any particular products to use or avoid with classics? It goes unsaid that two bucket soap and rinse handwashing is most appropriate but are there any other special considerations?

 

Thanks!

 

I use Meguiar's products, not that they're better (or worse) than anything else - mostly because they have a full line and are readily available.  I wash/rinse/dry one area, hood, fender, door, etc at a time.  I bucket wash with all-cotton (polyester can scratch) terry cloth towel.  I rinse with garden hose without spray nozzle, just kinda dribbling with minimum pressure.  I dry with damp chamois or all-cotton terry cloth towel.  If I'm going to wax, I wash with Dawn dish-washing liquid (I can hear the gasps now 🤣) - it removes grease, basically what old wax is.  All that said, my "classics" are drivers of Chevy-Ford-Plymouth class, not Cad-Lincoln-Chrysler and they've been repainted with more-or-less modern paint.  So I'm not too worried about paint damage.  The bigger concern is water leaking into the interior - the seals on old cars may not be the best.

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Most name-brand products from companies who cater to car people will work fine. I use a lot of Meguiar's products simply because as Chudwah says they're readily available. If you can find a parts store that caters to body and paint shops they often stock some amazing products.

 

Get a plastic shut-off valve for your garden hose. That way, after using a spray nozzle to knock the worst dirt off and get your soap foaming, you can take the nozzle off and run a low pressure stream of water to rinse soap off.

 

I've found that measuring both water and soap works well. As in 1 oz liquid car wash soap to 1 gallon of water, or whatever the soap manufacturer recommends.

 

Start from the top and work your way down. I usually wash half the top, rinse, then the other half of the top. Then move to either hood or decklid, then work my way around the vehicle sides. I often wait till last to do the front end because of bug juice.

 

Some folks do wheels and tires first, others last.

 

I've been using synthetic chamois to dry for many years. They have the advantage they can go in the washing machine after a few uses.

 

If you have an air compressor it will dry under moldings, crevices, door jambs etc. I've also used the leaf blower to do it.

 

Everyone has their favorite products and methods. As long as the product is designed for washing vehicles you should be ok.

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I thought we were supposed to let all the dust settle on it and park it in a barn to be “found” 😅

 

I just use a basic Maguires wash and chamois to dry it like the book says - though it had a terrible repaint in the 60’s so not too worried 

Edited by hidden_hunter (see edit history)
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Because of the recurring drought in Calif. I have stopped washing my cars at home, at least my newer daily drivers. I have been using a waterless wash and wax product called Aero Cosmetics Wash/ Wax All. I use a car duster every time I drive them and keep them covered. I was skeptical at first, but it seems to work well to maintain the shine. My only old car is my '89 XJS and I will wash that infrequently with a bucket and hose, if the Water Use Police are not watching. That car sits in the garage as the top needs to be replaced and Jaguars like most cats, don't like water very much anyway. I haven't washed it in over a year. The same thing with my '96 Mustang convertible as it leaks a bit at the car wash. It gets the waterless treatment every couple of months. My goal is not to water wash my old cars at all.

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55 minutes ago, alsancle said:

I have not washed one of my cars in 40 years.  California duster and detail spray.


 

If you don’t drive them, they don’t get dirty! 🥸

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Car wash was always a fun ride in the 1970 Pontiac La Mans convertible. The top to windshield leaked so I had to hold two towels up to the corners while sitting in the center. NEVER turned the lights on for the wax, figured it would wreck the top. 

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7 hours ago, edinmass said:


 

If you don’t drive them, they don’t get dirty! 🥸

I knew that was coming.

 

Unless you’re driving them on a tour, or the great race for that matter, you’re not gonna be out in crappy weather. You’re not gonna go down the dirt road, like we did on the great race

 

so if you don’t go down the dirt road, or drive them and crappy weather, they should never have to be washed, only gently  cleaned.

 

when I was a kid, I would wash my GTO three or four times a week, and the same from my Z 28.

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My cars aren't concourse quality and they are stored in a garage, so they don't get very dirty.  When they get too dusty I wipe them down with a damp rag and dry them with a bath towel.  :)

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8 minutes ago, cudaman said:

My cars aren't concourse quality and they are stored in a garage, so they don't get very dirty.  When they get too dusty I wipe them down with a damp rag and dry them with a bath towel.  :)

 

I always used a bath towel too but somebody was telling me recently that was a bad.  Of course, I can't remember who or why.

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I have a black car (but use the same method on all my cars). I use Griots car wash. I use a single bucket filled to the brim with suds and water. I dont measure. (in the shade) I hose the car down, I start from the top down washing one panel at a time. I use a soft brush on a long pole. I then rinse the soapy mess off the car. After the entire car is washed I do the wheels with a different brush. I then use my electric leaf blower to dry the car. If I want to be picky, I will wipe off any excess drops with a fine micro fiber cloth. I also use a california duster most of the time to clean the car off. I have a good wax base and use a quick detailer with a micro fiber after the duster. Typically I only need to wash the car a couple of times a year. 

51125369721_a54483a6cc_c.jpg2021-04-19_08-19-26 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr

51124808622_83d1b76d8b_c.jpg2021-04-19_08-19-04 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr

Not the best pic, but after a few years of this technique paint still shines with no swirl marks.

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With a private well rated at 11gpm flow and recovery, I don't see any benefit to the two-bucket method for myself.

 

I also don't see any benefit for a low-flow showerhead but that's all that's available. Maybe it does reduce load on my septic system.

 

I realize I'm fortunate to have that water capacity and that it's excellent water. Good taste and reasonably soft out of the well, which is good for washing clothes, cars and bodies.

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I too am on private well and septic. My rate is a bit higher that 11gpm though. I figure any water that hits my yard will eventually get back into the aquifer at some point (or the Ches bay, which ever comes first!). 

I have talked to different people at shows that use the waterless wash thingy, I am intrigued and may look into it. If its easier than bucket washing I'm all in. 

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There are a different brands available. Years ago I had bought one brand at a GoodGuys show. The Aero stuff I use I found on the web. I use it after dusting the car, it's good for droppings and insect splats. I'd never use it on gritty dirt. I'd wash that off first. I don't know if it's like the Meguiars Quick detailer which I've also used. The manufacturer claims that it lifts the dirt off the surface allowing it to be wiped away. I do use micro fiber towels to wipe it off as they are known to pick up dirt better than cotton. If I had an expensive car or paint job I might have a different opinion.

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@TAKerry +1 on leafblower or my compressor.  Mainly due to hard water where I am, water spots are worse than a dirty car.

 

AJ get out in the low evening sun and wash your pick up if nothing else, it's relaxing.  

 

Not for show cars but it is not rare for Model A and T clubs to do the occasional dort road tour.  One guy found a shallow stream to forge, I didn't make that tour but would likely do it with our car as it sits now.   From what I hear no one out of 4 or 5 cars got stuck.  Shiny car guys had an alternate route...

Edited by Steve_Mack_CT (see edit history)
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Model A, annual hosing dust off and  drive around the block to knock all the water off.  It's liberating to some degree. 😁

 

SL gets wash w macguire's or mothers, blow dried and any problem areas get towelled off.  Usually once or twice a year.  Rest of the time it is a spritz with that pink X stuff that is incredible, and buff.  Had a pro buff it this year for first time we think. But he was really hesitant so some scratches came out, a couple deeper ones, ypu can feel didn't.  Still on fence on whether to take another run at those.  We drive it a lot and it is really all it needs to stay clean.  Except the wheels, the brake dust is constant.  Warm water and windex because it is milder that wheel cleaner but I use that sometimes as well.

 

20220215_213947.jpg

FB_IMG_1537716637903.jpg

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Dave wheels on the A stay pretty clean, car wash soapy water and a sponge.  I have cone shaped brushes, etc. Not needed...

 

Just popped downstairs, two plus milk crates of cleaning stuff this is THE ONE thing I would recomend to anyone.

 

Dust, spritz, microfiber buff, drink a beer. 👍😊

20220712_153407.jpg

Edited by Steve_Mack_CT (see edit history)
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On 7/10/2022 at 12:43 PM, MyronGanes said:

How do you wash your classics and are there any particular products to use or avoid with classics? It goes unsaid that two bucket soap and rinse handwashing is most appropriate but are there any other special considerations?

 

Thanks!

Don't use anything. just hit it with a water hose, blow dry or a towel that won't scratch, if no air is available. Then use your favored detail spray & another scratch free towel. Soap is not good for any paint. But some of the detail sprays are very good for paint, they keep the paint moist, stops it from drying, getting brittle & oxidizing. Any time you see paint on your white towel, your paint getting thinner & thinner.

Edited by Oldschoolantiqueauto
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Steve, I like the wash attitude with the A and the creek drive through. About the same way I feel about my Road King (my dd Harley). It usually gets washed if I get caught in the rain, LOL. Honestly I do wash it about once a year to get any dust or grime off but its a flat black and I dont wax. I keep the mechanicals updated. I joke she may be the ugliest girl at the ball but she will dance to every song! 

I have buddies with nice shiny, brand new harleys that need to wipe them off at every stop that is made!

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I will wash a car in the garage without getting the floor wet. Use a spray bottle with car wash soap suitably diluted, wet down part of the car, let it soak a minute or 2 then wipe with a soft wet towel. Have a 5 gallon bucket half full of warm water to rinse the towel and keep turning it to a fresh surface. Lately I have been using microfiber towels but used cheap cotton towels for years.

 

Seems to do a good job and doesn't scratch but, mine are all drivers not super shiny show cars. The car wash soap is just the regular kind from the auto parts store, I think the bottle I am using now is from Simoniz.

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3 minutes ago, Rusty_OToole said:

I will wash a car in the garage without getting the floor wet.

This is very similar to my method.  I use very little car wash detergent in a 5 gallon bucket of water.  Start at the roof and work down one section at a time.  Use a soft deep-pile wash mitt that is dunked and turned regularly.  Once a section is clean I immediately dry it with a chamois.  Then next section...

 

I have a second mitt dedicated to the tires and wheels.

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 I use a 3500 lb. pressure washer!   

 

 Honestly, I do. But from about 6' away. This flows of all the sand, grit and/or dust that may be on it.

 Then I drag a wet towel with car soap across the surface to remove light soil and rinse again.

 Then I scrub lightly with a towel, rinsing it  after each pass to remove any grit, and then  a final rinse with the pressure washer.

 

 I paint my own cars and because I do it right, I have no fear of the paint flaking off.

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