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Rusty_OToole

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Everything posted by Rusty_OToole

  1. If you are in doubt about which direction the distributor rotates, the vacuum advance always points the opposite direction. In other words to advance the timing it pulls the points plate the opposite direction of rotation.
  2. Good point. It won't matter for setting timing but you can check by seeing where the rotor points. If timing an engine from scratch you can remove the #1 spark plug, turn the engine until air wooshes out and you are on the compression stroke. Top of the compression stroke is when the plug fires.
  3. Either method will work. My method will work even if you have the engine completely apart and have to time it from scratch. Requires no tools except a bit of stiff wire, wrench, and ciggy paper. Bruce's method will give the best performance and is easy to do if you have a vacuum gauge and IF the engine is close to begin with.
  4. Chrysler built flatheads have a unique feature that makes timing a cinch. Look on the cylinder head, above the last cylinder, you will find a small pipe plug. If you unscrew this plug, there is a hole above the piston. Drop the point of a screwdriver down the hole and it will hit the piston. Now you can slowly turn the crankshaft until the piston is as high as it goes, that is called Top Dead Center. #6 and #1 piston rise and fall together so you have found the perfect position to set the timing. Now you can pop the distributor cap off and connect a 12 volt test light across the points. Slowly turn the distributor until the light lights up. That means the points just opened. When the points open, the spark plug fires. If you do not have a test light put a cigarette paper between the points and turn the distributor as you gently tug on the paper. When it slips free the points are open. This method eliminates the crankshaft pointer and timing marks which on some cars, can slip out of place over the years. You can use a wire in place of a screwdriver but bend a loop in the top so it can't fall into the cylinder. What I described is the factory setting of TDC or Top Dead Center. If you feel ambitious you can give it a little extra advance for better power and performance. This is where the vacuum gauge comes in.
  5. I wouldn't put anything past the bird who put in those spark plugs and installed that alternator. The rubber hose from the carb to the distributor is a standard item you can buy by the foot at any auto parts store. Suggest you take the old one off and buy a new one. If you want to get icky, the 1952 Dodge had a solid steel line. By 1961 most cars were using a rubber hose. If they put the newer carb and distributor on the old engine, it would explain the rubber hose. If it is a mixture of parts it could be a home made lash up.
  6. When your engine was new compression was about 120 and oil pressure 45. What you have now is a well worn 72 year old engine. The amazing thing about Chrysler built flatheads, is their ability to keep running in an advanced state of decay without knocks or bangs, without making a fuss of any kind. They just get slower, hard to start, and burn more oil and gas. If that motor was in a car you planned to drive from coast to coast, or use for every day commuting I would suggest you plan on a rebuild. Not right away but in the near future. In your case it will probably last as long as you want it to and if it doesn't, you haven't lost anything. So I would suggest you change oil, check points and plugs and reset to factory specs, adjust carb and let it go at that. A little heavier oil might curb oil burning a bit but don't go too heavy, 15W40 is fine. The main thing is it should have oil in the crankcase, don't let it run dry. One little odd fact no one has mentioned. Your tug was made in 1961, two years after they stopped putting those engines in cars. By that time they were only available as industrial and marine engines, and in some heavy trucks and military vehicles.
  7. Maybe they were some old airplane plugs they had lying around. Not hard to get the right plugs for a 52 Dodge, all the spark plug co's have them. They probably changed the part number a few times over the years. As a rule I prefer to use the OEM brand but it shouldn't make much difference which brand as long as they are the right part .
  8. More likely a leaky rear main seal on the engine. Or, is there a vent on top of the trans? If there is, and it is plugged up, can build up pressure and cause a leak.
  9. Easy question first. That big pipe on the left side of the engine by the distributor is the oil filler. Pull off the black cap and there you are. There may be something in the back cylinder that is not supposed to be there. If you have an air compressor stick the hose in the spark plug hole and blow it around, see if anything comes out or seems to be blowing around. Hope it's not a broken valve or piston. The spark plug is over the valves so unless you have a broken valve spring it should not hit the plug. OEM spark plugs were Autolite. Yours may be the Champion equivalent. The number I gave is probably obsolete. Did you do a compression test?
  10. I would try an industrial supply house like McMaster Carr. It looks like a typical industrial type joint. Worst case, you might have to find a piece of rubber belt or an old tire and cut your own.
  11. 30PSI is plenty to be going on with. Waiting to see the result of a compression test. You should be ok without doing any major work.
  12. Rubber tube is for the vacuum advance. Valve is the heat riser valve, directs hot exhaust toward the carb when cold for quick warm up. Wobble is probably a bent pulley but could be loose bolts, might pay to check with a wrench. Looks like someone adapted a Ford Motorcraft alternator in place of the original generator.
  13. Inside, from what you have told us I suspect that is a used engine that was put in the tug at some point to replace the original. It seems to be well worn with low compression, oil pressure on the low side, and considerable blowby. But starts and runs without knocks or bangs. In other words a typical Dodge flathead . For your purposes will probably keep going for another 40 years. Think I would revise my oil recommendation from 10W30 to 15W40 but no heavier. It would not be hard to rebuild but for your use I would not bother. Clean and gap the spark plugs, file and set the points, check timing. Adjust carb for a smooth idle. If it seems sluggish and down on power live with it.
  14. I don't like the look of that rubber hose full of gasoline leaning against the red hot exhaust manifold!. Should be a steel line routed away from the manifold.
  15. Why would you do that? What about scraping it off then pressure washing like everyone else?
  16. Ha ha I can see the 4th of July parade with your tug all painted up nice and decorated with bunting, the girls in little Air Force uniforms saluting the crowds.
  17. Daddy and 4 year old triplets riding around the neighborhood on an airport tug, that is something you don't see every day, except on your street. You have an unusual hobby there. Hope you and the girls enjoy it for many years.
  18. Engine Specs- 1951 - 52 Dodge D42 Bore X stroke - 3 1/4 X 4 5/8 Displacement - 230.2 cu in Compression Ratio - 7.00:1 Horsepower - 103@3600RPM Torque - 190@1200RPM Oil Pressure - 45PSI Spark Plug - AR-8 Spark Plug Gap - .035 Points Gap - .020 Dwell - 39 degrees Firing Order - 153624 Timing - TDC Battery - 6 volt, positive ground (this is for a 1951. Yours is probably 12v negative ground) Hope this information comes handy.
  19. As you know, what you have is a 1951 or 1952 Dodge car engine. 230 Cu In and (I think) 103HP? I expect when built in 1961 it had a Chrysler industrial engine that was swapped out for a used Dodge at some point. BoreXstroke/cu in/compression/HP/Torque/Oil press/Spark plug/Plug gap/Points gap/Dwell/Firing order/Timing/Ground volts 3 1/4 x 4 5/8 230.2 7.00 103 @ 3600 190 @ 1200 45 AR-8 .035 .020 39 153624 TDC +6
  20. Nothing wrong with synthetic but it is wasteful and unnecessary especially when you change it so frequently. Also, synthetic can leak out thru gaskets and seals that are perfectly ok with conventional oil. As I said I would use plain ol 10W30 in fact, I would probably use Walmart house brand and save a little money. It sounds like a normal, old engine with normal wear. If it starts, runs and drives OK I would not worry about it. I would not even buy new spark plugs, just clean and adjust spark plugs and points, check air filter, change oil and let it go at that. Those old Dodges will run forever in an advanced state of wear. They just get harder to start, low on power and burn more gas and oil. I presume you are keeping it as a curiosity. If you plan on dragging B29s around all day that is a different story lol.
  21. Serial number stamped on a raised pad on the left front of the block, high up near the head, behind the generator. If it is an industrial engine may have a plate rivetted to the block on the right side, in the middle, low down near the pan rail. It sounds like your industrial engine was replaced by a Dodge car engine of the same type. This could mean the original was swapped out for a factory rebuilt or just a junkyard engine.
  22. On the question of, does it need to be rebuilt? Probably not, but if you want to be sure answer these questions. What is the oil pressure? What is the compression? Oil pressure should be 30PSI at 30MPH or the equivalent. 10 or 15 at idle. Compression around 100 ideally. But if it is the same on all cylinders, within 10 pounds, you are good to go. Industrial engines often were built with low compression to run on tractor gas. At best flatheads are limited to compression ratios of 6:1 to 7.5:1 because of the combustion chamber shape. If compression is good and oil pressure good, you should be good to go. If compression is low try squirting some oil in the cylinder with an oil can. If compression comes up, it's rings. If not it's a burnt valve or, outside chance, a broken piston. If you do have a bad valve it is easy to fix without taking out the motor. You can grind in the seat, install a new valve just by removing the head and the valve cover. From the sound of it, it does not matter much how it runs as long as it runs as you will not be using it hard anyway. It should not be hard to get it running and tune it up. Maybe you can find an old retired mechanic who is familiar with these engines to tune it up for you.
  23. These engines are VERY common, millions were made for Plymouth and Dodge cars, Dodge trucks, industrial and marine engines from 1937 to 1972. Most parts can be had from your local NAPA or other good auto parts store. Don't bother the shiny new store with the kid with purple hair behind the counter. Look for a dusty old store where the farmers shop with a gray haired or bald headed guy in charge. A good source of motor parts is Vintage Power Wagons in Iowa. They have parts by the dump truck load at good prices. Power Wagons (military Dodge 4 wheel drive) used the same motor for years. Last I looked $75 a set of 6 NOS pistons, how good do you want it?
  24. What is oil pressure like? Should be 30PSI when revved up to 1500 - 2000 RPM. Maybe 10 or 15 at idle. If pressure is decent I would use a good name brand 10W30. By name brand I mean Esso, Shell, Valvoline, etc. With no oil filter you are supposed to change oil every 2000 miles. I don't know how many hours that would be. It is possible to add a filter but probably not worth the bother. If oil pressure is on the low side I would try 15W40. Should be no need to go heavier. YES they did recommend single weight oil but that was before multigrade oils became available. Chances are it has never used anything but multigrade, detergent oil especially since being rebuilt.
  25. Good for you, do the job right and look forward to many miles of trouble free driving.
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