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Everything posted by Rusty_OToole

  1. Just the one Duesenberg in 1921. Jimmy Murphy at the wheel.
  2. 57 and later Buicks had aluminum brake drums on the front which worked well for the times. They might fit your car, if you are worried about brake fade.
  3. I have thought of drilling a small hole in the drum and using a wire type feeler gauge like a spark plug gauge to set the clearance. Some cars came stock with holes in the brake drum to inspect for wear or for adjustment, VW for example.
  4. Tell your friend, Jag - you - are, rhymes with what a fag you are.
  5. Suggest your friend let an old time mechanic set up the brakes. To get them right you need to contour the shoes to fit the drums then do a major adjustment so they fit perfect. After that, an occasional minor adjustment to take up wear which is simple to do. It may cost a little money to get the brakes done but far less than replacing them completely.
  6. I'd be surprised if there was a single part made in 1923, or made by Ford.
  7. Cylinders of that era can be bored much more than modern engines. In those days it was expected that an engine would be rebuilt at least once during the life of the car, maybe 2 or 3 times. It is not unusual to bore one 1/8" and I have heard of some blocks being bored 1/4". Since the seventies, they often won't stand a bore job of more than .030 or .060. But cars seldom get a motor job even when they go over 200,000 miles. If the cylinder is really gouged you can have it sonic tested to find out how thick the casting is.
  8. You are right, it is an awful choice and makes no sense. If you can't rebuild the Buick or find a good block, suggest you sell both and buy something decent. Twenties cars are not that rare and there are some good buys out there.
  9. A good spring shop should be able to recondition and soften up both front and rear springs for around $300. The space between the leaves is probably choked with rust and dirt, and the tips of the leaves may have worn a notch in the next leaf that limits their travel. The spring leaves can be cleaned and polished and new sliders put in between to allow free movement. Removing a few leaves will allow them to flex easier. If you can add modern tubular shocks you should have a very acceptable ride, at least on good roads. The transverse leaves do limit spring travel to some extent meaning, on real rough roads they are more apt to bottom out. The only drawback is that the soft springs will limit your ability to carry heavy loads, but if you were in the habit of carrying heavy loads you would not be complaining of the hard ride. I don't see how you figure to buy and install a complete new set of springs for less work and money. If cost is an issue there is no reason you couldn't do the work at home. Leave the main leaf in place, take out the others and polish with a disc grinder, paint and reassemble with new sliders leaving out a few leaves and see how you like it.
  10. Stanley Steamers and other pre 1920 cars used them. In your case why not take the truck to a local spring shop and see what they can do? If you do not carry heavy loads you don't need a big rack of springs, they can remove a few leaves, clean and polish, install spring sliders and give you a smoother ride. Or load a ton of cargo on the back and it will smooth right out.
  11. I had an uncle who farmed with horses up into the 1970s, he had a 100 acre farm and never owned a truck or a tractor. He had Belgian horses which he took good care of. When he curry combed them he saved the hair. From time to time a Jew peddler would come around buying horse hair, old burlap bags, bones, rags, bottles, scrap metal etc. They would buy the horse hair and it would get sold along, eventually being used to make upholstery stuffing. Old time upholstery shops used to have a machine that combed out the horse hair and fluffed it up, old matted hair from an old chair or sofa could be run through the machine and would come out 5 or 10 times the volume. If you had an expensive car from the twenties or earlier or expensive furniture it would have come with horse hair stuffing in the seats.
  12. You could tell the diameter by trying different size drill bits until you find one that just slips into the hole, then measure the length necessary to reach the pump arm when the cam is all the way down. Then you would know if a Ford pushrod will fit. You could even make one if you knew what material to use.
  13. So the answer seems to be, the beautifully made Rolls Royce won't last 5 minutes longer in hard service than the crude Cadillac Packard or Lincoln but the individual parts are prettier? And this was enough to induce 1 luxury car buyer out of 1000 to pay double or triple for a Rolls?
  14. There was a unique Canada only Pontiac in the thirties that used a 224 cu in version of the Chevrolet overhead valve six. All others used the Pontiac flathead six. You speak of valve cover as if yours is the OHV?
  15. I'm sure Rolls Royce made cars of the highest quality. What I wonder about is whether this gave any practical advantage. I know the American luxury makes outsold Rolls Royce about 1000 to 1. Did the Rolls Royce buyer get anything for his money other than the satisfaction of knowing his car was a work of art?
  16. I can believe if a potential customer crawled underneath both cars and compared the chassis point by point, that he could see why the Rolls cost more. How many bothered to do this, or cared? As for the body the report I referred to, said the mass produced all steel American cars were distinctly tinny compared to the Rolls. But Rolls Royce didn't make the bodies, they were made by specialist coachbuilders, and the same coachbuiders also put bodies on American chassis. As for US vs British the best American bodies were equal to the British if not better. Brewster was among the best, I believe. So Rolls Royce had a difficult time selling their cars for twice or three times what the competition cost. What was in my mind was whether the hand made Rolls Royce would stand up better or last longer than the mass produced American luxury cars. I am sure for all practical purposes, they would last as long as the typical buyer wanted them to. But here we are 80 years later and I am curious.
  17. I saw some extracts from a confidential report by an American Rolls Royce employee in the early thirties. The gist of it was, you could buy an eight cylinder Cadillac Lincoln or Packard with coachbuilt body for $4000 to $6000 while a six cylinder Rolls Royce didn't offer anything very much better in performance, silence, comfort etc in their $12000 car. I wonder if this extended to reliability and longevity? Would the American car, if serviced and maintained according to the manufacturer's recommendations, last for as many years and miles as the Rolls?
  18. A spectacular creation but not one of Buckminster Fuller's original Dymaxion cars. Someone deserves full marks for taking his concept and running with it, can you give any details of who built it, when and where, and any technical details?
  19. If you have the old one worn fuel pump pushrods used to be common on Fords and Mercuries with flathead engines. The usual solution was to build up the end with weld or braze to get back to the right length.
  20. I agree with the idea of using a bypass filter, that is what the car had originally, and they are a finer filter that removes finer particles of dirt than the newer full flow filters. The Frantz filters have been around for over 50 years, they use a roll of toilet tissue as a filter which makes them easy and cheap to replace. I believe Amsoil and others make a spin on bypass filter. Or you could adapt a replacable cartridge type filter, they are still available.
  21. Turn signals were not mandatory until 1951. Before that they could be a dealer installed option or aftermarket. The switch on the column should tell which you have.
  22. Some other memorable cars come to mind. One of my school mates who lived a couple of blocks away, his dad drove a red 1957 Buick Roadmaster 4 door hardtop. That was about the fanciest car in the neighborhood. Across the street from our house was the school, the principal had the same blue 55 Pontiac sedan for years. Later one of my teachers bought a new 1961 Pontiac Tempest 4 cylinder, the only one I saw at the time. A family friend had a 1950 Studebaker Starlight coupe, maroon, the only one of those I ever saw. My uncle George had a knack for buying unusual cars. The first convertible I ever rode in was his 1955 DeSoto, pink and white, with carpets and power windows. One saturday he got bored so he drove around the neighborhood and picked up all the kids, took us swimming, then out for ice cream cones. I never forgot that. Later on about the time he got married he had a blue and white, 1954 Plymouth Belvedere 2 door hardtop, I also recall he had a few 1955 and 56 Fords that were not very memorable, but later had a 1958 Buick Limited 4 door hardtop in gray, and a green 1958 Olds 98. The first 4 lane hiway around here was the 401 that opened in 1963. At first there was hardly any traffic and no cops. We would drive the 45 miles to Whitby to get a sandwich from HMS Whitby the first submarine sandwich shop, 110MPH all the way in that big Olds or Buick. Later he had 2 Mercury Marauder hardtops, full size Mercury 2 door hardtops with bucket seats and big motors. One was a 63, the other a 64, I don't know where he found these cars or how he could afford them, of course they were older used cars when he bought them. He just had a knack I guess.
  23. Powerflite was Chrysler's replacement for their Fluid Drive system which was their first automatic, or semi automatic trans. Powerflite was a real automatic, a 2 speed plus torque converter like Chevrolet's Powerglide, Buick's Dynaflow or Packard's Ultramatic.It was introduced on 1954 Imperial and across the board in 1955. It continued as Chrysler's basic automatic until 1961, with the 3 speed Torqueflite being offered from 1957 on. Powerflite was a simple, reliable transmission that gave good service in everything from hemi V8 Imperials to six cylinder Plymouths. It had a couple of unusual features. One was the pushbutton control panel they used from 1956 on. This was a simple reliable mechanical system less prone to giving trouble than the electric controls used by other pushbutton transmissions. The other was the lack of a Park position, they felt this was unnecessary as Chryslers had a handbrake on the driveshaft completely separate from the service brake. Just make sure the handbrake is adjusted correctly and working the way it is meant to. The Royal Lancer is a beautiful car, I wouldn't mind one myself, and the Powerflite would not bother me for a second.
  24. When I was a little kid in the late fifties a teenager across the street drove a modified 1950 Chevrolet 2 door fastback. It was blue and white with fender skirts and white rubber mud flaps with glass jewels. It caught my attention because it had no muffler or maybe a "hollywood" muffler, you could hear it roar as he drove down the street. Next door in the driveway for a while was a non running 1936 Chev sedan we kids used to play in. Later on my dad bought a Triumph Mayflower that looked like a dwarf Rolls Royce. It ended up broken down, used as a back yard play house before it got hauled off for scrap. My aunt Dorel had a butterscotch 1956 Pontiac station wagon. She used to take us to the beach and on picnics. A neighbor bought a new black Plymouth Fury hardtop in 1959, that caused a bit of a sensation. The rest of the neighbors ran to used Ford sedans. My mom's best friends ran a black 1949 Ford sedan, until they replaced it with a black 1962 Falcon sedan, which was replaced by a green 1968 Falcon sedan. The only thing unusual was that he bought them all new. I'm surprised his wife allowed him to buy new cars, she was about the tightest person with a buck I ever saw.
  25. If you are buying a wiring harness ask the seller. They should be able to add what you need. I would look to take power from the terminal block. In the case of a heavy current draw like fog lights would take power off the battery circuit, controlled by a relay.
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