Rusty_OToole

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Everything posted by Rusty_OToole

  1. Typical garage customer who waits to fix his car until it won't go any farther, then thinks the mechanic is a crook because the repair is so expensive. "Why are you charging me for new rotors, calipers, pads and brake lines? Why can't you just put a set of pads on it?" "Your tires are shot too."
  2. I don't recommend removing the core plugs on a V8 engine. It is much easier on certain six cylinder and straight eight engines. Try flushing, the IR thermometer tip is a good one, if the rad is clogged it may have to be taken off and cleaned or replaced. But only if the flushing doesn't work.
  3. Especially flush cooling system. Recommend you use reverse osmosis water or distilled water with CLR or rad flush. You may need to do this 3 times. Refill with reverse osmosis water and antifreeze or summer coolant. Ford cars and trucks and Mercuries with flathead V8 engines tend to run hot because of a peculiar design feature of running the hot exhaust passages through the water jackets. They came with oversize radiators to compensate. If everything is working right they are not too bad but if everything isn't perfect they are prone to overheating, more than other motors.
  4. If you want the perfect example of socialism with cradle to grave security and guaranteed annual income, join the Army. The US Army works better than any other socialist system because they are backed up by the US capitalist economy.
  5. Imperial 80 was Chrysler's top car at the time. Chrysler was one of the last holdouts of "big six" motors when other luxury cars were going to straight eights. They were selling against cars like Cadillac and Packard six. In 1928 they advertised America's most powerful car, 112HP. They would do a lot better than 45 MPH, the 80 referred to 80MPH top speed. Although you would be a lot happier driving it 45 especially the top heavy 7 passenger sedan. Unfortunately as others have pointed out, no matter how good they were in 1926 the demand is not there today.
  6. I know guys who have one collector car, and have had the same car for many years. Without exception these cars are really nice, well done, and as they keep working on them year after year they keep getting better. They go to their share of shows and have as much fun as anyone, without spending a lot of money or time in any one year. These are mostly in the hot rod field. Funny story about Pat Ganahl, former editor of a hot rod magazine. One day his secretary asked "are you rich?" Not hardly, what makes you think so? "You drive a different hot rod to work every day". His "high end" hot rods: A 1948 Chevrolet sedan his grandmother gave him when he was 14, and the Chev was 17. He has been working on it off and on ever since, it has had about 7 transmissions, 4 engines, 2 or 3 paint jobs, been reupholstered once, and numerous brake jobs, tires etc all done at home. A 1932 Chevrolet coupe he bought in the mid 70s for $600. Now has a built small block, nice paint, nice wheels etc. A 1960 VW beetle he bought for his son when he was in high school for $500. They rebuilt it California style as a father son project with 1835cc engine, nice paint, mags, etc. When son went off to college he tossed the old man the keys. A 1962 Chevrolet Nova station wagon. Bought as a used car for his wife for $1800. When she got tired of it and got a newer car he took it and rebuilt it with V8 engine, mag wheels etc. So. Less than $3000 cash invested to buy 4 cars. Plus some weekends and evenings of work at his favorite hobby stretching over many years. What you can do if you start with a project you can handle and stick with it.
  7. Wonder how many "Greenies" know gas cars are 97% pollution free and have been since the 1980s? If electric cars are 98% pollution free and gas cars are 97% pollution free and electric car batteries cause a lot more environmental destruction, and are harder to recycle safely, then what is to gain from electric cars?
  8. The batteries in the latest electric cars fail if they freeze. That is why they have electric heaters (run off the battery) to keep them warm. If your electric car is not plugged in it will shut down after a few days and if you try to charge it or drive it the batteries blow up. The only cure is to tow it into a heated garage and let it warm up overnight, then recharge the batteries. Then there is the question of what kind of heater your car will use in freezing weather. Electric heat will cut your battery life in half or worse.
  9. Considering the number of times California has run out of electricity, compared with the number of times they have run out of gas, I don't know how it is going to work when they double the demand for electricity to run all the cars, trucks and buses. Maybe they will put the homeless and illegals to work pulling rickshaws ( sarkylert)
  10. Friend of mine towed a 54 Packard Patrician home from Pennsylvania on a tow bar, with a 93 Pontiac Grand Am V6. Canadians do things differently. You don't need a 10 ton truck with a 500HP engine to tow a car.
  11. The oil coming out of the filter is "clean" at least, clean enough for your engine. If not what good is it? The filter's life is over when it is full of dirt. Have changed many filters, and cut some open to see what was inside. Don't think I have ever seen one full unless it was on a badly neglected engine that never got an oil change. However, this is a matter of no consequence. I prefer to change the filter with every oil change myself especially on late model vehicles with tiny joke oil filters. On older cars that require oil changes twice as often and have big oil filters it is not necessary but it won't hurt anything.
  12. Manufacturer of the car recommended filter change every second oil change. If the oil was very dirty I would change filter at first oil change. It certainly won't hurt to change it every time but not necessary. Removing the oil pan on any car with IFS is a big job which you would know if you had done it. You have to jack the engine up high enough for the pan to clear the crankshaft, main caps and oil pump and in many cases this requires draining the rad, removing the distributor, removing motor mount bolts etc.
  13. 10W30 detergent oil was available when your car was made, it was the default choice at every dealership and garage from the fifties through the eighties. It is likely your car never used anything else. Unless some goof told a previous owner that all old cars need good ol' straight 30 motor oil (not true). I would use a good name brand 10W30 and a quality oil filter like NAPA Gold, Wix or Hastings. Never Fram. If the oil turns black fast I would change it around 1000 miles to clean out any sludge, after that normal (for 1954) 3000 mile intervals. Change filter every second oil change.
  14. No need to apologize. It is a funny video and gives a new perspective of what a 1930 car means to someone who never drove one. To be fair, he does a better job adapting to 1930 technology, than I would to his latest 2019 electronic gadget.
  15. Watch a Millenial try to drive a Model A. I laughed like hell, the video is a scream and you should see the comments section. If you want to feel like a cave man this is the video for you.
  16. That looks like a better unit for less money. Be glad you don't live in Canada. If it will fit your battery box it should be perfect.
  17. Today I bought a lithium ion booster battery made for jump starting cars. For up to 5 liter gas engines or 2.5 liter diesel.It is a 750 amp, about the same as a typical car battery. It measures 7" X 3 1/4" X 1 3/4". They also had a 1500 amp job which is larger. In addition to jump starting cars it will act as a power supply for your smart phone and other electronic devices through a USB port. It also has a built in flashlight. It cost $99 on sale at Canadian Tire, I am sure you can do better in the US. The 1500 amp was $179. If I needed a power supply for a car like yours I think I would give one a try. https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motomaster-eliminator-750a-lithium-ion-booster-pack-and-power-bank-0111906p.0111906.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwwtTmBRBqEiwA-b6c_45BW0H-KTH95blIxT-jcs2ibjsirmsInbOaExfnO6uU82FAZtwNJxoCP-0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds#store=23
  18. The main difference was the 1983 had a coolant recovery system, the 1964 didn't. The fact that the motorhome had a 4 core rad and the 63 only had 2 didn't help. If your 63 had a 4 core rad, coolant recovery system and a 7 blade non clutch fan with shroud it would not have overheated.
  19. If you have points ignition and want to soup it up a bit you can add an electronic module. I like the Ford thick film module from the 90s, but have also used the old Chrysler module that dates to the early 70s. Both will work with points, they draw very little current in the trigger circuit so the points do not burn. With this system your points will last indefinitely, you only need to check and adjust the gap as the rubbing block wears down. If properly lubricated, checking the dwell every year or 2 is plenty. MSD makes an ignition that will work with points if you have room for it. I even have a couple of the old Mark 10 modules from the sixties.
  20. A quick start or booster battery may be better. They are lithium ion, not lead acid. More convenient and safer. Here is a typical example, not recommending this one, just an illustration.
  21. Does your 51 have a pressure cap? I know they did not use them in 1949. Pressure caps raise the boiling point of the coolant, allowing hotter coolant temperatures without boiling over. Today we have 195 thermostats and 16 pound pressure caps. At that pressure your coolant does not boil until it hits 240 degrees. No pressure cap, 212 degrees, less at high altitudes. They recommend a thermostat that gives a margin of safety even for cars used in the mountains . You can raise the safe temp by putting on a higher pressure cap but this can stress the cooling system resulting in leaks if it is not made for such pressures or is old and possibly corroded or weakened by age. With unpressurized systems it used to be common to run a 160 thermostat in summer, a 180 in winter. Antifreeze has a higher boiling point than water giving an extra margin of safety if you want to use a hotter thermostat. Newer engines are made to run hotter for better fuel efficiency and it keeps out condensation as well. Your engine will run better and more efficiently with a hotter thermostat as long as it does not boil over and lose its coolant. A coolant recovery system helps cooling too, it consists of an overflow container and a pressure cap with a second seal. Even if your car did not have a pressure system a 4 pound cap should be ok and this will allow you to add a coolant recovery container.
  22. This is the sort of car that was meant to be bought by a millionaire playboy, driven for 3 years and then scrapped. No one should buy one now. Unless you have too much money and too much time on your hands, a car like this will take care of that.
  23. These days they recommend replacing tires that are 5 years old, as they have lost half their strength. I wouldn't use old tires for anything but display. If they are new reproductions they will have a date on them as all cars have had since the seventies. It may be in code. The date of manufacture is the last four digits of the DOT code. The first two digits are the week of manufacture, and the last two digits are the year. For example, if the last four digits of the DOT code are 0203, that means that the tire was manufactured during the second week of the year 2003.
  24. Years ago, like 40 or 50 years ago, someone in England was reproing classic car mascots rather crudely like the one you describe. Sometimes they were 'antiqued' with sandpaper and thinned black paint or India ink. An old time English collector may know who I mean, I remember reading something about him in an English old car magazine, possibly Old Motor.