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Everything posted by Rusty_OToole

  1. Queen Elizabeth trained as a truck driver and mechanic during WW2 https://rarehistoricalphotos.com/queen-elizabeth-army/
  2. You could try pressure washing it with detergent. I did this on a steel tank and it worked. Of course you will have to take it off the car, wash rinse and dry it thoroughly.
  3. In the early seventies a local gas station had a leaky tank replaced, when they dug it up they found a Stutz of about 1920 that had been buried beside the tank. It sat beside the gas station for a while then disappeared, I never knew what happened to it. Did not see the car myself but was told about it.
  4. There were quite a few electric cars in the late fifties and early sixties. Not just a toy Corvette with photo electric cells glued on the hood. There was the Henney Kilowatt, a repowered Renault Dauphine, the Electric Shopper and another that looked like a modified Karmann Ghia. No doubt several more I have forgotten.
  5. Close... if the glass happens to contain a small amount of iron oxide it would give it a green tint. To neutralize the green, glass makers would add a little manganese dioxide, sometimes called glassmaker's soap. The manganese dioxide has a pink or red tint, which neutralizes the green. The result would be perfectly clear glass. Over many years sunlight causes a chemical reaction that turns the manganese purple. Glassmakers started using manganese dioxide in the mid 19th century. Evidently they changed to a different type of glass for headlight lenses about 1925.
  6. Spark plug fires as the points open, breaking the circuit to the coil. If you are timing #1 cylinder both valves should be closed and the piston at top dead center or close to it. Some cars are times a degree or two before TDC, but if it fires at TDC it will start. I never heard of timing an engine by #5 valve. Are there any timing marks on the front pulley or flywheel? Is this a 1932 Buick you are talking about? If you are static timing an engine from scratch there are several ways to determine exactly when the points open. One way is with a 6 volt test light, connected to the
  7. How many miles on the original engine? What is the matter with it, what is the oil pressure, have you done a compression test? It is possible that you could have it purring with a tuneup and maybe a valve job. Unless it is completely shot it would be easier and cheaper to fix the old engine, provided you can get parts for it. I would be asking the Lincoln experts about that.
  8. Knew an old timer whose first car was a Model T hot rod with high compression head, magneto ignition and Rayfield carburetor. Apparently the Rayfield was a popular improvement at the time, yours may qualify as a contemporary accessory or acceptable modification
  9. Never owned one but heard they were prone to sludging up, wearing out and expensive to rebuild. Originally 292 cu in, later bored out to 306 but proved troublesome so they went back to the 292. They also offered an early automatic trans called "Liquimatic" that was such a dog, they were all recalled and changed to manual trans.
  10. They are a simple 5 pin Yale lock, a good locksmith can make new keys. To make it easy, you can remove the door lock by pulling out a flat metal keeper in the back edge of the door and pop out the lock, also remove the glove compartment lock or trunk lock (glove compartment is easier). Door and ignition use one key, trunk and glove compartment use another. If there is a very old locksmith in your town they may have the correct key blanks, or they should be available online.
  11. Don't miss The Young In Heart, a 1938 comedy featuring the Phantom Corsair as the Flying Wombat. Several terrific scenes of the futuristic Corsair and a car showroom, and the movie is very funny. The trailer- The movie-
  12. They used rubber salvaged from old tires for many years, no reason leather won't work. Do you know what the original was made of? You do know you can buy a muffler hanger at any parts store for a couple of bucks?
  13. Usually done by removing the instrument cluster. Look under the dash to see how it is fastened, a strong light and a mirror are useful for this, or a video camera if you are high tech.
  14. I know a woman who drove her 1940 Dodge to a garage, broken pistons and all, and had them rebuild the engine. Ready to drive home, the bill was $3000. So $500 a hole. This means nothing to the owner of anything but another Chrysler product as they are one of the easiest to rebuild and all parts are available cheap. It goes to show how much difference there is between different makes and models, and even the same make and model depending on condition and what needs to be done.
  15. There should be a long return spring under the floor, maybe it is missing?
  16. Did you remember to undercut the mica on the commutator?
  17. Garages and auto machine shops used to have a machine to punch out the old rivets and set new ones. There may still be one around if you can find it, are there any old car guys in your area you could ask? If not, you might need to send them out to have the job done right. Seals should be available from your local industrial bearing shop, there is one in most good sized towns.
  18. There should be a bearing supply shop in your area, look in the yellow pages or online.They have, or can get practically any kind of bearing. Probably from the number stamped on your old bearing or maybe by measuring it. They also have all kinds of seals.
  19. If you are curious about metal in the pan you can wash the oil away with cleaning solvent (hardware store paint thinner is good) rinse it around, let the metal settle and pour off the solvent, then use a magnet to pick up any steel and iron fragments. Whatever is left will be non ferrous, either aluminum or bearing metal (white) or bronze or brass (yellow). Any metal in the pan is not good. I think I would put the pan back on, fill with oil and get it running. If it has good oil pressure and no bangs or knocks it's good to go. Metal in the pan could mean anything or nothing. Dependin
  20. I've used detergent and water with a mop made of rags tied to a wire coat hanger. The wire can be bent to reach all corners.
  21. It has 2 check valves, one on the inlet and one on the outlet. It wouldn't work otherwise.
  22. That's what you think. Chev, Pontiac, and Ford never left racing. Instead of corporate sponsorship they had dealer sponsorship so corporate could keep their hands clean and honor the racing ban - on paper. In reality the corporations continued to develop racing parts and sell them thru their dealers.
  23. NASCAR did indeed put on a series of races for compact cars in 1960, and Chrysler made what they called a Hyperpak option package including a 4 barrel carb for the slant six. The Valiants wiped the floor with everybody, coming in 1 - 2 - 3 in the first race. When it turned out this was not a fluke NASCAR cancelled the series. Whenever Chrysler products were winning they changed the rules so Ford, Chev or Pontiac could win. Reason, when Dodges and Plymouths were winning they drew thousands of spectators, when Ford Chev or Pontiac won they drew tens of thousands. It was purely a matter of $$$$$
  24. That is fine for the transmission, you need a heavy gear oil for the rear axle. My Service Data Book (1953) recommends hypoid gear oil, 90 in summer, 80 in winter. Today we have multigrade oils that do the same thing.
  25. If you can find an old, retired mechanic who is familiar with fifties Fords he would be the best to get your car running. The secret is to go over the engine carefully, checking and diagnosing, and not change anything unless it needs to be changed. Too often amateurs tear the car up, replace all kinds of parts unnecessarily like points, coil, carburetor etc then wonder why it won't run. The oldest man in the world couldn't tell you that, once you have everything messed up all you can do is start from scratch and do EVERYTHING over until you are sure it is right. If you start with an untouched
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