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Rusty_OToole

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Everything posted by Rusty_OToole

  1. You need to get the specs for your specific car from the manufacturer, either the vehicle shop manual or the carburetor company's.
  2. The pistons are cheap enough, but check on the cost of truing the cylinders before you make up your mind. Also we have much better rings today than they had in the fifties. If they are NOS pistons and rings you might price a set of the latest low tension moly filled jobs. They reduce friction and practically eliminate cylinder wear which is especially valuable on a long stroke engine like yours,
  3. From reading a number of Tucker articles in antique car magazines over the last 50 years they seem to fall into 2 categories. Group #1 is cars that spent their whole life in a museum and have less than 20,000 miles on them, the other group in the hands of individual owners with 100,000 miles or more. One owner said he bought his as a curiosity, planning to take it out for parades and shows, but once he drove it, he liked it so much he found he was driving it more and more. This seems to have been a common theme back when the cars were 5, 10 or 20 years old. I could also mention that Tom M
  4. Most engine wear occurs in the first minute after starting, before the oil begins to circulate. Using heavy oil makes it worse. I have never seen an engine burn up due to using too light oil. I do know Pierce Arrow set 24 hour records on the Bonneville salt flats using 20W20 Pennzoil. This in a 1932 engine with poured babbit bearings, running an average speed of 117 MPH under the desert sun, stopping only for gas. Any good brand of 10W30 is plenty good enough for pottering around the neighborhood or cruising 2 lane roads at 50MPH and you need detergent oil to keep out sludge. Don't
  5. 3 7/16 is stock DeSoto/Chrysler size. 237 cu in was the stock size for DeSoto engines in the late 40s. This would make a good motor for your car. Have you checked what a local machine shop would charge to rebore the engine? If the crankshaft checks out good, new pistons, bearings, seals, gaskets, timing chain and you will have practically a new engine. .007 is the factory recommended wear limit. But if economy is an issue, you can go with .010 over rings filed to fit, and knurl your pistons and it will probably go another 30,000 miles or more. The rust could be from sitting in a damp
  6. If you want to see how it is done, look up Cold War Motors videos on Youtube, about the restoration of a 1960 Plymouth Fury he pulled out of a barnyard. The man is an artist when it comes to working metal. He showed one strip of stainless about 3 feet long, with 3 or 4 dime size dents, and remarked that it took 4 hours to straighten and polish but when he was done it looked like new. Here is one video, there are others
  7. Oil the fan motor bearings with the lightest synthetic motor oil. It will work great and the oil will last for years.
  8. 30 way too heavy except in very hot conditions, and with a clean pan you should use detergent oil. I would use synthetic if it doesn't all leak out. If you have the usual leaks or oil loss of an old engine, use a good name brand 10W30 non synthetic. Dollars to donuts, that is what the manufacturer recommended.
  9. Chances are your car has never used anything but 10W30, it was the default choice at all garages and dealerships from the fifties to the eighties.
  10. Is the one on the other side any better? They should be mirror images of each other.
  11. On flathead Chrysler products there is a small pipe plug above the #6 piston. Remove the plug and you can drop a screwdriver down the hole on top of the piston. This allows you to find TDC. Since #1 and #6 rise and fall together it gives you TDC of #1, allowing you to check the timing or timing marks.
  12. Plastic timing chain sprockets and plastic distributor drive gears often fail on very old cars because they are weakened and made brittle by age. GM V8s used to be patsies for this, with the cam drive sprocket failing anytime after 10 years. I haven't seen this on Chrysler products but no reason they should be immune.
  13. The only other thing I can think of, is failure of the camshaft drive. If the engine turns over but the valves do not move, the cam drive has stripped. This is not the end of the world, a new cam chain and sprockets can be installed without removing the engine but you must be careful to clean out any debris.
  14. The top of the shaft is free to turn on the lower part but only to a limited degree, for the centrifugal advance. I don't see how but it is conceivable that the advance mechanism is broken. If you take out the distributor, first turn the engine to top dead center with the #1 cylinder on compression. This will make it easier to time the distributor when you put it back in, or when you get a rebuilt distributor.
  15. Is there a plastic or nylon gear at the bottom of the distributor shaft? Is it intact, not stripped or worn? Was the distributor all the way down? The distributor is driven by a gear on the camshaft which is part of the camshaft. The chance of it going wrong is practically nil. The fault must be in the distributor . You can see how it is driven off the camshaft in this illustration. You can't see the drive gear on the cam, but it is a spiral type gear that drives the distributor and oil pump.
  16. Pope was the General Motors of the early days. They made Pope Toledo, Pope Hartford, Pope Tribune, Pope Waverley and Pope Robinson cars. Their first car was the Columbia electric car in 1897 but sold the electric car division in 1899. Albert Pope started by making bicycles in 1878 and went on to make motorcycles as well as cars. He went bankrupt in 1907 and died in 1909. The company made its last car in 1914 and the last motorcycle in 1918. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pope_Manufacturing_Company
  17. Your description of the welded on water jacket on the exhaust manifold plus your location, Prince Edward County, makes me think the conversion may have been done by George Ventress. I know he converted car engines to marine use in the forties and fifties, possibly earlier. He was a well known member of the Power Squadron from the fifties until his death in 1986. Old timers will remember him and his Sad Sack, a yacht made from a war surplus PBY Canso or Catalina flying boat.
  18. When did cars have manual spark advance you could control from the driver's seat? Before 1925 I would think. Back then compression ratios were low and gasoline about 50 octane. On a hard uphill pull you would back off the spark advance to prevent knocking, advance it again on flat ground when the engine was running freely. Gas is so much higher octane now that it should not make any difference in other words, not necessary to prevent knocking.
  19. I like to stick the gasket to the cover with a thin bead of silicone and press it on a flat surface to dry while I do the valves. Then grease the side that goes to the engine. Another thing you can do is smear a thin film of silicone on the gasket and let it dry, instead of grease. This helps it seal and prevents sticking. Silicone is easier to scrape off than gasket shellac when it comes time to replace the gasket.
  20. Find out how big the president of the company was. I am not kidding. Henry Ford was 5'8" 145lbs and hated fat people, while K T Keller of Chrysler was 6' tall and heavy, and made sure all the cars Chrysler made had plenty of room, even the Plymouths. George Mason of Nash was another big man. You will find the cars they made far roomier than a Ford.
  21. If you like old movies with Duesenbergs in them, have you seen this Fisk tire commercial from 1939? It features a Duesenberg roadster being driven by a stunt man.
  22. I would love to watch this episode but it is not on Youtube. Found it on a movie site but they have a scary registration I don't want to do. Is there a good place to download or watch?
  23. What a beautiful car. I never saw a black one before and the color really does something for it. For some reason, different colors change the personality of that car more than any other car I can think of.
  24. Power goes to the battery by way of the ammeter. It has to be this way if the ammeter is to register the charge/discharge or +/-. On the wiring diagram you can trace the wire from the generator to the ammeter, ammeter to starter, starter to battery. The wire from the ammeter goes to the battery cable on the starter but it might just as well go straight to the battery. They probably did it that way to save wire.
  25. 1959 Cadillac is one of the most iconic and valuable fifties cars. Yours is the 4 door hardtop model which is one of the less desirable ones. 1971 Olds convertible, is desirable because it is a convertible, otherwise 71 Oldsmobiles set few hearts aflutter. So. Both are desirable and have value, but are let down by condition. The fact that they are partly dismantled kills their value. Not many people want to get involved in such a project and those who do, know it is going to be an expensive proposition. You should be able to get a few thousand dollars if you
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