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Rusty_OToole

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Everything posted by Rusty_OToole

  1. Engine number on left side of block, at the top, near the front. Look for a stamped number behind the generator. Serial number on the driver's door post. These are key to ID the car. Also a plate on the firewall that has numbers indicating color, upholstery etc. Give us the numbers and someone will know what they mean. As Bryan points out left side wheel bolts are left hand thread, you have to be careful, sometimes hubs get swapped over the years. Also, positive ground 6 volt electrical system. That means battery is connected 'backwards' to modern cars. There are other unique feature
  2. For those who are not familiar Tillsonburg is a small town in southwestern Ontario Canada. Quite a way from Oregon.
  3. The two 'cans' are the electric controls for the transmission shift, there are three units, a governor a kickdown solenoid valve and ignition interrupter switch. Both the transmission and fluid drive take TDH tractor fluid, ISO 22 or ISO32 grade. This can be bought at Walmart, auto parts stores and farm supply stores. They are filled separately. The fluid drive fill is through the removable plate below the dash board, on the right side of the transmission tunnel. Take off the plate and there is a hole that should have a tin knockout plug. Pry out the plug, rotate the engine and a fill pl
  4. Don't be afraid of an exhaust heater. I have dealt with them on VWs plenty of times. You need to go over the system and make sure there are no exhaust leaks. Then there is probably a tin shell around the heater which is rusted through and needs to be replaced or repaired. There is nothing particularly difficult or expensive in any of this, and once fixed properly, should work well for many years. I'm not sure but that it would be easier than dealing with a leaky hot water heater.
  5. Is there a serial number stamped in the block anywhere? It could be the original 'Comanche' SV-266 or it could be the very similar looking 304, 345 or even the 392 (which was not offered in light trucks). International engines were very durable and long lived, chances are it still has the original engine unless you know for sure it was changed. You can't go by what anyone says even a former owner may be mistaken.
  6. For what it is worth I think you are doing the right thing even if nobody else does. The lesson is to qualify the customer with a few judicious questions first. A little conversation to find out the buyer's experience level, how well equipped they are regarding garage storage and maintenance tools, and what they have in mind for the car. If necessary you can explain the facts of life to an inexperienced buyer. It should not be necessary to refuse a sale, well almost never. There is one other thing, besides doing right by the customer, is doing right by the car. I would hate to see
  7. Some cars have different spots to hook the springs in, for adjustment. If your car does not have them you may have to buy new springs or make a prop.
  8. Not a bowling alley, a chain of bowling alleys. He also owned a supermarket when he died. Not a grocery store, a supermarket. Durant always thought big, he made and lost 3 multi million dollar fortunes in his day. If you know anything about the fifties, bowling alleys and supermarkets were the biggest retail fads of the decade. Durant would have been a multi millionaire again if he had lived until 1961. He would have been 100 years old.
  9. It would be easier to use a later model 235 or 261 Chev six. Millions were made from 1954 to 1962. The 261 found only in Chevrolet trucks 2 ton and larger, and Canadian Pontiacs. The 235 was standard equipment in Chevrolet cars and trucks. The GMC engine was swapped into Chevies before the V8 came out in 55 but they usually went for the big 302 cu in one. A lot of extra work to swap in a 228 which is actually smaller in displacement than a standard Chev six. I had a chance at a 270 GMC and considered swapping it into a 42 Chev I own but turned it down in favor of a 261
  10. I think the real lesson is, know your customer and don't sell him something he can't handle. A few polite questions, in this case, would have revealed that the customer was a newbie with stars in his eyes who expected something out of all reason. The only thing to do in cases like that is to politely enlighten the customer and if possible, sell them something suitable to their needs and experience level. I don't like the idea that the only reason to be in business is to make a fast buck by hook or by crook, and it is perfectly ok to rip off your customers by selling them something
  11. All the glass on that car is flat glass. Any good auto glass shop can cut glass to fit. If they have the patterns which they probably won't. They can use the old glass for patterns even if it is separated or cracked. The car should be symmetrical, that is, left and right side the same so even if one piece is missing they can use the opposite side. Then there are specialists as Xander and 30Dodge have named. Worst case, you could cut pieces of masonite or paneling to fit and use them for patterns. Ask the seller for parts, glass, etc. if anything is missing you are in trouble on
  12. Bloo has the answer. You can think of it like shooting ducks. The faster the duck is moving the more you have to lead it when you fire your shotgun. The same applies to lighting a fire in the cylinder. The mixture may seem to explode instantly but in fact it takes time for the flame front to travel from the spark plug ignite all the mixture. It only takes a split second but, when an engine is running 4000 RPM it is firing 33 times a second! So, when the engine is barely moving as when being turned by the starter you want little or no advance, as the engine speeds up you need more adv
  13. See if you can get a dealer parts manual, they have a lot of illustrations showing how parts fit together. Will also tell you if you have the right parts, and all of them.
  14. Why didn't you tell the customer the truth? That car was not a good daily driver when it was brand new, and it passed its Best Before date during the Eisenhower administration. It is a collector's item, a fair weather car to be enjoyed on nice days, on lightly traveled roads, at speeds of 50 MPH and under. If you told the customer that, he probably would not have bought it but you might have sold him something more suitable like a Mustang. Under the circumstances you did the right thing to give him his money back. I have done similar deals when the customer
  15. What are they made of? I have heard of making new steel clutch plates from cut down circular saw blades when replacements were not available. Have also heard of cutting friction plates from masonite. The mechanic who did this, was an Indian motorcycle expert. He made a new clutch for an Indian 4 that came with a multi plate wet clutch with steel and brass plates, his steel and masonite replacement worked better and smoother, did not stick together when cold and lasted for many years. He also had a trick to separate the plates when cold, he drilled holes around the edge of the plates and put in
  16. There are other reasons to design a car specifically for taxicab duty. One has to do with passenger compartment size, a large passenger compartment with jump seats allows for taking 5 passengers instead of 3 and in some cities, this allows the driver to charge more money. Combine a large roomy body with a short wheelbase chassis for maneuverability and a small, heavy duty motor for economy and reliability. All designed for long, hard use with minimal repair and upkeep and you have a car quite different from an ordinary passenger car. Especially in the teens and twenties it was possible to
  17. You could wire the pump to the oil pressure or alternator light so it only works when the engine is running. With a push button override for starting.
  18. Some early cars had dry cell battery ignition. I think they used flashlight batteries. DeDion Bouton had such ignition in the 1890s and some cars still had it up to 1918 or so.
  19. I thought the front suspension was the same as London taxicabs, which came from a large fifties Austin sedan.
  20. The Checker Cab company began by running fleets of taxicabs in major cities, then they started making their own cabs. The chassis was a typical assembled car of the time using components like engine, transmission, frame and axles bought from specialist suppliers and a body built by one of the many body companies that supplied the industry in those days. Bodies were of wooden frame construction with steel or aluminum panels on the outside. Usually bought in batches of 50 or 100 to keep costs down. Evidently they found it cheaper to make their own cars than to buy them, although other companies
  21. If you really want one - they are fairly common in Canada. A quick Kijiji search turned up 27 possibilities from $1500 to $19000. Most unusual may be the 1986 hearse. Remember those are Canadian dollars. $100 US buys $126 Canuck bucks. Or to put it another way, a price of $100 Canadian is only $79 US. https://www.kijiji.ca/b-classic-cars/canada/pontiac-parisienne/k0c122l0?rb=true&sort=relevancyDesc Or you could buy this gem from Dean's Greasy Flips. It's so Canadian, it has hockey stick tail lights! Only $550 bucks or $443.44 in real money. (Hobo not included) Greasy
  22. That thing has 5 cells. What kind of car used a 10 volt battery? I have seen glass batteries used on home electric lighting outfits with Delco generators. There were other brands like Homelite, and wind driven generators. These were used in rural areas before rural electrification became universal. The one I saw had individual cells. Am doubtful of using a glass case battery on a car or truck, the danger of breaking or cracking from shock and vibration would be too great. So far as I know the first car batteries had wooden cases which soon changed to hard ru
  23. For the double naught spy who has everything
  24. Canadian Pontiacs were Chevrolets with Pontiac style sheet metal. Chev chassis, shorter wheelbase and narrower track than US Pontiacs, and Chevrolet engines and transmissions. For tax reasons export sales to British Commonwealth countries were sourced from Canada - no import duties on trade between Commonwealth countries. I believe at the time the duty on imported cars to the UK was 25%, Australia New Zealand etc may have had similar taxes. In some cases export models were made in Canada because the Canadian plant was set up to make right hand drive, and other changes required for oversea
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