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Rusty_OToole last won the day on April 6 2019

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  1. Could you remove the door and make small plates to bolt onto the latch bolt holes and the hinge bolt holes, and weld struts between the plates in a Y shape? I know a Porsche mechanic who made a couple of these to brace Porsche bodies while replacing floors and rocker panels. His were made adjustable with turn buckles to true up a sagged body before welding in new panels.
  2. Rusty_OToole


    I've done this by 2 methods. One was to cut the valve out of a truck inner tube with a circle of rubber attached and clamp it to the filler neck with a hose clamp. Worked great, and you could tell you had pressure by the way it bulged. The other was to use an air blower with a short pipe on it, stuck thru a foam rubber ball. Hold the ball tight in the filler and press the trigger. The first method is better if you have an inner tube.
  3. Rusty_OToole


    I had to drain the tank on a Dodge van after it got dunked in a river. Punched a hole in the tank with a sharp pointed drift and let it drain out then filled the hole with a self tapping screw and neoprene washer. Punching rather than drilling had 2 advantages - no sparks, and the folded up edges of the hole gave the screw an excellent bite. Put a quart of methyl hydrate in the tank to pick up any water and filled with fresh gas. Drove the van for years afterward with no problems.
  4. It's a 55 Chevy sedan delivery that has been cut in two and shortened. This was a thing some people did in the sixties, not sure why. 55 - 56 - 57 Chevies are among the most popular hot rods and collector cars and usually sell for more than other makes. They have the advantage of the best support when it comes to parts and repairs. They make an excellent collector car to start with if you can afford to buy a good one.
  5. It would pull quite a load, it just wouldn't pull it very fast. Top speed, 20 -25 mph for a solid tire truck of that vintage.
  6. Jay Leno's Autocar coal truck, there are several videos on Youtube featuring this job, this one has some engine views.
  7. By the way, heavier oil won't stop the leaks or even slow them down much but may change the action of the shocks. If you want to experiment they make different weights of motorcycle shock oil.
  8. Would dragging a chain from the chassis or body to the ground, grounding the car, be better or worse? In other words would it help disperse a lightning strike or make it more likely your car would be hit?
  9. If they are leaking that bad they need new seals or a rebuild. Once you price them you may decide topping them up once every 2 or 3 years is a small price to pay. An old trick is to wind string or a strip of rag around the shaft to slow down leaks.
  10. You could try adding some kerosene or stove oil to your gas to lower the boiling point. Gas back then was low octane, and oilier than today's gas. As others have pointed out it is formulated for fuel injection in a sealed system and evaporation and vapor lock are no longer a concern. With a low compression engine you can add 10% to 25% kerosene. The engine will run better and cooler and develop more power. Also, here is a Marvel manual, it is for Nash but maybe your carburetor is similar.
  11. Found this while perusing Project Gutenberg, a manual for the Marvel Carburetor as used on the Nash Six in the mid 1920s. Hope it may prove interesting and perhaps useful, to Nash and Marvel Carburetor fans.
  12. Do yourself a favor and keep the parts you took off like air filter, brakes, radiator. In case you or someone else decides to restore it properly in the future, those things are very hard to replace, why not keep them when you have them.
  13. Have you tried your local bearing supply store? They have a extensive range of bearings and seals. There is a good chance your seal is a standard off the shelf item that is still available. If not they may have a suitable material to make a new one. Find bearing supply places in the yellow pages.