Rusty_OToole

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  1. Years ago I put a new Walker exhaust system on a 1970 pickup truck. But before I did, I put on 2 coats of aluminum stove pipe paint I happened to have in the garage. Ten years later when I got rid of the truck the exhaust was pristine, no rust at all. The first 2 feet or so was darkened by heat but not rusty. Today there are many better high temp paints. I would definitely rub it down with steel wool and paint it with high temp paint. At least 2 coats, 3 if you have time.
  2. How about the 55 - 57 Thunderbird? Might be more practical than any of the cars on your list. More room than the Corvette or Jaguar, easier and cheaper to service and repair than the imports, with V8 power.
  3. More likely a linkage adjustment. I don't think they have a sprag. The M6 is more like a manual trans with a hydraulic self shifter.
  4. Because there is one born every minute and two to take him.
  5. I have seen similar plates, they were very common on rebuilt engines. Large shops and factory rebuilds used them, not small local auto machine shops. I have a Chrysler industrial engine that came from Chrysler with a similar ID plate on the right side above the oil pump. Your plate gives the oversize of pistons, rod and main bearings. Wonder what the 14 27 indicates. Obviously not a date, maybe a job number? If the company records still exist it may be possible to date your rebuild but most likely they were destroyed years ago.
  6. I have seen pictures of a special DeSoto taxicab body that was cut in half diagonally and fitted out for use as a movie prop. The same body was used in dozens of movies over a 10 year period. Behind it was a movie screen, they could project film taken from a moving car to make it seem like it was driving down the street.
  7. From your description the engine has been bored .0145 oversize ( 3.827 - 3.125 = .0145). I doubt they make .0145 oversize rings so you will have to use .020 and file them to fit. To do this you need to put the ring in the top of the bore, square it with a piston, measure ring gap and file as necessary. Clamp a fine file in a vise and bring the ring to the file. This assumes pistons and bores are good, or at least not worn over .007 taper. I started typing this before Tinindian chipped in.
  8. I worked in a gas station in the late sixties. One of our customers was an old man who drove a shiny black 1950 Cadillac with a venetian blind in the back window. It's the only one I remember seeing back in the day. He hardly used the car, we might fill it up once or twice a year. We would see it only in the summer and only on sunny days.
  9. My favorite quotation on this subject comes from a successful businessman who decided to step up from his usual Cadillac to a Rolls Royce. A year later he said " I never knew what a great car my Cadillac was until I bought a Rolls Royce".
  10. Rusty_OToole

    50 Windsor

    Yes. They are positive ground 6 volt. Also, watch out for left hand threads on the left side wheels, a Chrysler feature that not everyone knows about. Check for L or R on the bolts, sometimes the hubs get switched.
  11. Looks like some kind of built in springs in the wheels. The tires themselves are solid rubber. Probably an attempt to make a puncture proof tire/wheel that rode as well as a pneumatic tire. There were quite a few patent wheels and tires in the early days, some quit bizarre. Just a week ago in a local junk yard I saw a pair of pre 1920 Dayton Airless white rubber tires on rims. They were stuffed with segments of foam rubber encased in a woven wrapping. Punctures and tire wear were a big problem back then, if you went 50 miles without a flat tire you were lucky and tire life was 5000 miles or less. If that car is still around the solid rubber tires are probably still on it, and still good after 100+ years.
  12. I've heard of four on the floor, three on the tree and two in the glue but never a wee-waa.
  13. When I did this it was because I made an offer on a car and got turned down so I went out and bought another car (second choice). A week later seller #1 called me up and told me his 'better offer' fell through. I lowered my original offer because I didn't have much money left after buying the other car, and the seller took it. So now I had 2 cars. The OP described a similar situation and I told him my experience. Hope this is clear.
  14. I don't know how you could paint or coat the inside of the water jacket in the usual way. Only thing that comes to mind is using a rust inhibitor in the cooling water, or antifreeze that has rust inhibitor in it. Or sealing the inside with sodium silicate (water glass). There are compounds you can buy at auto parts stores for this, usually sold to seal up leaky head gaskets.
  15. I have been in a similar situation before. I tell the guy I bought another car since I talked to him and can't afford $4000 anymore. All I can pay is $2000. Sometimes I get it. Remember, he already tried for more and didn't get it. That is, you can try this if you can afford to after buying the good car.