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Rusty_OToole last won the day on September 11 2018

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  1. Rusty_OToole

    1947 Super Six anemic engine performance

    How many miles are on it? Typical engine life back then, about 50,000 to 80,000 miles with a ring and valve job at 30 to 40 thousand. I would start by doing a compression test. Then check for timing chain wear by hand turning the crankshaft back and forth and observing how far you can turn it before the distributor rotor moves. Next would be a tuneup and careful inspection of parts.For example are you sure you have the correct model carburetor with the right jets? They do get changed sometimes.
  2. Rusty_OToole

    Advice / input on buying a late 20's - early 30's car

    It takes time for fuel mixture to burn. Not much time, but then an engine turns very fast. For easy starting you want the spark when the piston is at top dead center. As the engine speeds up you need to lead the spark the way a duck hunter leads a fast moving duck. The faster the speed the more lead. But not enough to make the engine knock or ping, which it will do especially when under a heavy load. Today this is all taken care of automatically. On really old cars it is controlled manually by the driver. In practice all you need to do is retard the spark for starting, advance for running. At one time you might need to back off the spark on a long steep hill but today's gas makes this unnecessary. As a rule cars are only required to have the equipment they had when new. Turn signals were not required before 1951. Seat belts before 1967 etc. Air enters at the front through the fan, goes through a duct on top of the engine, passes down and between the cylinders and exits on the sides. Then disperses under the car. See one run on the test stand.
  3. Rusty_OToole

    Advice / input on buying a late 20's - early 30's car

    Quite true. If the wood frame gives trouble it is not that hard to replace. It is necessary to jack the car up and put stands under the ends of the axles and crossmembers then remove the bolts that hold the frame rail on. You can then remove the frame rail and put in a new one. Tighten the bolts and repeat on the other side. I believe it is necessary to remove the fenders and running boards but that is about all. So, not an easy job but not overwhelming either. The frame rails are made of ash 1/2" thick, seven layers glued together. The Franklin club has the blueprints showing length, width, where to drill the bolt holes etc. But as you say, they seldom give trouble especially these days when they do not get the pounding on rough roads they did in the teens and twenties.
  4. Rusty_OToole

    Advice / input on buying a late 20's - early 30's car

    Re the Franklins with wooden frame rails - it is possible to replace broken or weak frame rails without taking the car completely apart. They are made of ash boards and the Franklin club has blueprints for making new ones. It's a big job but not the kiss of death.
  5. Rusty_OToole

    Dropping the oil pan on 54 Royal Coupe

    He says he has a manual. Not sure what the holdup is, unless the power steering mechanism won't let the tie rods drop down?
  6. Rusty_OToole

    Dropping the oil pan on 54 Royal Coupe

    If it is like other Chrysler products of the period it has an idler arm that holds up the ends of the tie rods. The idler arm hinges on the idler arm support bracket. If you unbolt the bracket from the frame the steering mechanism can fall away, making enough room to remove the pan.
  7. Rusty_OToole

    Advice / input on buying a late 20's - early 30's car

    As I said my experience was with air cooled VWs. They had a problem especially with the vans, of overheating if the driver did not keep the revs up but then, they were designed different from American cars, they had a 4 speed trans and the driver was supposed to use the lower gears, unlike American cars that were designed to go everywhere in high gear. I knew a guy from Arizona who cured his overheating problem in a VW transporter by driving around in 3d in real hot weather. He also cured a vapor lock problem by squashing half a grapefruit on the fuel pump but that is another story. Best to be guided by the experience of other Franklin owners, my point was that air cooled cars can be just as reliable as water cooled cars in any weather possibly more reliable provided they are maintained and operated correctly. By the way I have seen mouse nests inside VW engines cooling shrouds when I took out the spark plug wires, and also in the heating ducts. I always got them out with a vacuum cleaner and air hose without dismantling the engine.
  8. Rusty_OToole

    Advice / input on buying a late 20's - early 30's car

    I have heard that Franklin went to a lot of trouble to test their cars in hot weather in the desert including Death Valley. From my experience of air cooled VW cars and vans I would not hesitate to buy a Franklin in a hot climate provided certain precautions are followed. Be sure the cooling system is exactly as it left the factory with no missing pieces, missing seals or gaps in the cooling shrouds. I have seen VWs killed by this. You wouldn't drive a water cooled car with water leaking out every which way and an air cooled engine can be just as sensitive to air leaks. Try and keep the engine clean, a buildup of grease and dirt can block the cooling fins and reduce cooling. Use good oil as recommended by the Franklin club. On a modern car I would say synthetic but I don't know if synthetics agree with the Franklin oiling system. Keep the revs up so the cooling fan pushes lots of air. If the engine slows down too much on a hill on a hot day it is easier on the engine to shift down to second. The engine will do its work easier and get more air. You may want to add an oil cooler, I would be guided by the Franklin club on this. I would definitely add a good heat gauge. On VWs there used to be an aftermarket heat gauge that worked off a special spark plug washer, this gave combustion chamber temp very accurately. If you had another gauge for oil temp you would be covered for any eventuality. If it gets too hot you can pull over and let it cool down, by letting it rev at a fast idle or shut it down for a half hour or hour. Oh and one more thing. I have found mouse nests inside the shrouds, blocking the cooling of VWs that have been off the road for a long time. Worth checking for if you can.
  9. Rusty_OToole

    Murphy Color Samples

    Best way to find the original finish of your Lincoln would be to look in some hidden area of the body that was not exposed to weather or sunlight like the door jambs and polish and wax the paint. This will give you the best color sample, although it may have changed with age (most likely darkened). They have machines today that can analyse the paint and create a duplicate formula.
  10. Rusty_OToole

    Advice / input on buying a late 20's - early 30's car

    Vacuum tank uses 2 chambers and a couple of valves. When it is empty engine vacuum is applied to the upper chamber which is connected to the gas tank by a fuel line. The vacuum sucks gas into the chamber. When it is full a float valve shuts off the engine vacuum and opens a valve in the bottom. This allows the fuel to fall into the bottom chamber. From there it flows to the carburetor. With the upper chamber empty the vacuum valve opens and it sucks gas again. There is also a float to prevent the bottom chamber from being filled too full. There is a plug in the top that can be opened to pour gas in by hand, to get things started. This is handy if the vacuum tank stops working as you can keep filling it by hand and driving a few miles at a time. On a long hard uphill pull you can run out of gas, as the engine is producing so little vacuum it can't suck the gas uphill from the fuel tank. When the vacuum tank runs dry you run out of gas. The cure is to pull over and let the engine idle for a minute to refill the vacuum tank. On the whole they worked well and were pretty reliable and trouble free, and not hard to fix if they went on the fritz. But new designs of fuel pumps were better and cheaper. Something else, carburetors made for vacuum tanks had bigger needle valves and were made for very low pressure, like 1 pound because they were fed by gravity. Carbs made for fuel pumps had to have smaller stronger needle valves.
  11. Rusty_OToole

    1954 Dodge Royal Coupe with 9,872 miles

    Things like brakes, carburetor, fuel pump, fan belts, spark plugs etc can be bought from your local NAPA store if you have the right parts man. If you have a dusty old parts store manned by old bald headed or gray haired clerks standing behind a rack of parts books, that is the place. The shiny new Autozone manned by a kid with purple hair and a snot ring probably won't be much help. I have also had good luck with Rockauto although, it can be hit or miss on some older cars. The point is parts for fifties cars are generally available IF you can get a good part number to look it up. I mean mechanical parts, body parts, chrome, trim are a different matter.
  12. Rusty_OToole

    Studebaker Buyer's Tips

    Not a Studebaker owner but my impression is that they were a high style car and a leader in innovations like the newest body styling, V8 engine, auto trans, etc in the forties and fifties. V8 engines were very rugged and long lived except for a tendency to leak at the rear main seal, a common affliction of cars of the era. Starting in 1953 the bodies were rather flimsy and tinny. I think they corrected this about the time the Lark came out in 59 but some people think otherwise. Auto trans developed in cooperation with Borg Warner and was also used by Ford AMC and many other makes especially in England. The Champion six dates back to the thirties and is reliable and economical, if not very exciting from a performance standpoint. Chassis is quite conventional with brakes, rear axle and trans from outside suppliers. Front suspension was practically unchanged from 1952 to the end of production. There used to be a very large horde of NOS parts at the old Studebaker factory, I believe a lot of this was junked a few years ago. The Studebaker people can no doubt fill you in on the parts situation.
  13. Rusty_OToole

    1930 Stutz for sale

    From an old interview with a designer from the custom body era. He worked for several well known custom body companies in the twenties and thirties. He said most bodies were 'stock' in that they were made in batches of 50 or 100 and were stored until they got an order, then the body was installed on a chassis, painted trimmed and equipped to the customer's order. Most were ordered by dealers for stock, and bought off the showroom floor. If a customer wanted a particular color, trim combination, or accessories they would get out a body and modify and equip it as desired. He said the full custom, hand built to order, one off bodies only accounted for 1 or 2 out of every 100 bodies sold. But, the materials and workmanship were the same in all the bodies they made, and all were considered custom bodies.
  14. Rusty_OToole

    1950 Chrysler body

    That is where they put the power brake booster. Power brakes were standard equipment on New Yorker and Imperial, optional on other models. They used a booster separate from the master cylinder, in other words, they used the same master cylinder as the non power brake cars with a booster bolted to the chassis under the floor behind the master cylinder. You can still buy a modern version of this booster, they are widely used on hot rods. Jaguar had a similar booster separate from the master cylinder. Here is some info on how they work, if you are thinking of adding one.
  15. Rusty_OToole

    Those Pesky Wheel Ants

    My guess is that back in the fifties that illustration was done to show someone spraying soap or cleaning solution on wire wheels. Recently someone found it and thought it would be funny to change it into a 'wheel ant' cartoon.