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Rusty_OToole

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  1. If you are in doubt about which direction the distributor rotates, the vacuum advance always points the opposite direction. In other words to advance the timing it pulls the points plate the opposite direction of rotation.
  2. Good point. It won't matter for setting timing but you can check by seeing where the rotor points. If timing an engine from scratch you can remove the #1 spark plug, turn the engine until air wooshes out and you are on the compression stroke. Top of the compression stroke is when the plug fires.
  3. Either method will work. My method will work even if you have the engine completely apart and have to time it from scratch. Requires no tools except a bit of stiff wire, wrench, and ciggy paper. Bruce's method will give the best performance and is easy to do if you have a vacuum gauge and IF the engine is close to begin with.
  4. Chrysler built flatheads have a unique feature that makes timing a cinch. Look on the cylinder head, above the last cylinder, you will find a small pipe plug. If you unscrew this plug, there is a hole above the piston. Drop the point of a screwdriver down the hole and it will hit the piston. Now you can slowly turn the crankshaft until the piston is as high as it goes, that is called Top Dead Center. #6 and #1 piston rise and fall together so you have found the perfect position to set the timing. Now you can pop the distributor cap off and connect a 12 volt test light across the points. Slowly turn the distributor until the light lights up. That means the points just opened. When the points open, the spark plug fires. If you do not have a test light put a cigarette paper between the points and turn the distributor as you gently tug on the paper. When it slips free the points are open. This method eliminates the crankshaft pointer and timing marks which on some cars, can slip out of place over the years. You can use a wire in place of a screwdriver but bend a loop in the top so it can't fall into the cylinder. What I described is the factory setting of TDC or Top Dead Center. If you feel ambitious you can give it a little extra advance for better power and performance. This is where the vacuum gauge comes in.
  5. I wouldn't put anything past the bird who put in those spark plugs and installed that alternator. The rubber hose from the carb to the distributor is a standard item you can buy by the foot at any auto parts store. Suggest you take the old one off and buy a new one. If you want to get icky, the 1952 Dodge had a solid steel line. By 1961 most cars were using a rubber hose. If they put the newer carb and distributor on the old engine, it would explain the rubber hose. If it is a mixture of parts it could be a home made lash up.
  6. When your engine was new compression was about 120 and oil pressure 45. What you have now is a well worn 72 year old engine. The amazing thing about Chrysler built flatheads, is their ability to keep running in an advanced state of decay without knocks or bangs, without making a fuss of any kind. They just get slower, hard to start, and burn more oil and gas. If that motor was in a car you planned to drive from coast to coast, or use for every day commuting I would suggest you plan on a rebuild. Not right away but in the near future. In your case it will probably last as long as you want it to and if it doesn't, you haven't lost anything. So I would suggest you change oil, check points and plugs and reset to factory specs, adjust carb and let it go at that. A little heavier oil might curb oil burning a bit but don't go too heavy, 15W40 is fine. The main thing is it should have oil in the crankcase, don't let it run dry. One little odd fact no one has mentioned. Your tug was made in 1961, two years after they stopped putting those engines in cars. By that time they were only available as industrial and marine engines, and in some heavy trucks and military vehicles.
  7. Maybe they were some old airplane plugs they had lying around. Not hard to get the right plugs for a 52 Dodge, all the spark plug co's have them. They probably changed the part number a few times over the years. As a rule I prefer to use the OEM brand but it shouldn't make much difference which brand as long as they are the right part .
  8. More likely a leaky rear main seal on the engine. Or, is there a vent on top of the trans? If there is, and it is plugged up, can build up pressure and cause a leak.
  9. Easy question first. That big pipe on the left side of the engine by the distributor is the oil filler. Pull off the black cap and there you are. There may be something in the back cylinder that is not supposed to be there. If you have an air compressor stick the hose in the spark plug hole and blow it around, see if anything comes out or seems to be blowing around. Hope it's not a broken valve or piston. The spark plug is over the valves so unless you have a broken valve spring it should not hit the plug. OEM spark plugs were Autolite. Yours may be the Champion equivalent. The number I gave is probably obsolete. Did you do a compression test?
  10. I would try an industrial supply house like McMaster Carr. It looks like a typical industrial type joint. Worst case, you might have to find a piece of rubber belt or an old tire and cut your own.
  11. 30PSI is plenty to be going on with. Waiting to see the result of a compression test. You should be ok without doing any major work.
  12. Rubber tube is for the vacuum advance. Valve is the heat riser valve, directs hot exhaust toward the carb when cold for quick warm up. Wobble is probably a bent pulley but could be loose bolts, might pay to check with a wrench. Looks like someone adapted a Ford Motorcraft alternator in place of the original generator.
  13. Inside, from what you have told us I suspect that is a used engine that was put in the tug at some point to replace the original. It seems to be well worn with low compression, oil pressure on the low side, and considerable blowby. But starts and runs without knocks or bangs. In other words a typical Dodge flathead . For your purposes will probably keep going for another 40 years. Think I would revise my oil recommendation from 10W30 to 15W40 but no heavier. It would not be hard to rebuild but for your use I would not bother. Clean and gap the spark plugs, file and set the points, check timing. Adjust carb for a smooth idle. If it seems sluggish and down on power live with it.
  14. I don't like the look of that rubber hose full of gasoline leaning against the red hot exhaust manifold!. Should be a steel line routed away from the manifold.
  15. Why would you do that? What about scraping it off then pressure washing like everyone else?
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