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Rusty_OToole last won the day on September 11 2018

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  1. Auto racing was a big novelty from about 1905 to the late teens, then cars became so common the novelty wore off and car racing didn't draw such big crowds. Purpose built race cars cost from $5000 to $15000 or more, this was not sustainable in the twenties without a corporate sponsor. So someone got the idea of building cheap race cars from Model T Fords, Dodges and Maxwells. They would not be as fast as a full blown race car but a lot cheaper, and if everyone was on an equal footing you could have some close races. Soon they were racing these cars on dirt horse tracks and bull rings around the country. This may have been the beginning of the speed equipment industry as these hop ups made their way onto regular road cars.
  2. Or get the kind with the rubber bung on the end and stop worrying.
  3. It's an old trick to get around a weak electrical system. It can give a little more oomph for starting a worn engine and brighten up the lights. I agree, it's not necessary if everything is in good shape especially on a small car like a Chevrolet.
  4. That would be one of the last with oil bath air cleaner. To service, pour out the old dirty oil and wipe clean with rags or cotton waste. Rinse the filter element in kerosene, or Varsol and let drip dry. Do not blow with compressed air, that can make channels in the filter material. Fill the base to the line with 50 weight motor oil. Pour a little oil into the filter, just enough to wet it with oil. Check when you do a tuneup. You don't need to service it until the base is more than half full of dirt. On paved roads in a temperate climate this can take years. Tuneup specs Normal oil pressure 40 - 65PSI. Spark plugs AR52. Plug gap .035. Points gap .017. Dwell angle 26 -28. Firing order 18436572. Timing 2 degrees BTDC.
  5. It's ok with me. Don't forget to adjust your voltage regulator to 9.6 volts.
  6. If the battery is perfect and the cables are perfect and the relay is perfect and the solenoid is perfect and the starter is perfect and the ground is perfect and there are no loose or dirty connections hop in and go for a ride, there is nothing wrong with it.
  7. 1956 Chrysler Windsor V8 with 4 barrel carb, 331 cu in 250HP 340 ft lbs of torque, 9:1 compression. An excellent engine, overshadowed by the hemi. The polysphere engine would match the big brother in performance right up to 80MPH then the deep breathing hemi pulled ahead. If in decent tune will have no trouble keeping up with today's traffic and cruising at 70MPH.
  8. Did you get the right cables, 6v are twice as big as the 12v cables commonly sold. Did they test them on 6 or 12v? If the starter battery and solenoid are good all that is left is bad cables or loose or dirty connections.
  9. I would use Rustoleum and brush it on, 2 coats. Easy to use and cheap, and works well to stop rust. The business of the horses possibly eating the paint may be a concern, in that case, you might better use a non toxic latex exterior house paint. Thin the Rustoleum paint a bit with mineral spirits or paint thinner, apply with brush or foam roller , 2 or 3 thin wet coats and it will make a nice job.
  10. Your 1960 Buick engine had a 10.25:1 compression ratio. That year Buick made engines with 8.5, 9, and 10.25:1 compression, yours was the high performance, high compression variety. I'm a bit surprised if it runs well without pinging on acceleration if the timing is fully advanced. But you should use what works best. It's a question of matching fuel octane to the octane requirements of the car, which usually means compression ratio. Your fuel octane should look like the compression ratio of the engine. For example the 9:1 compression, 2 barrel carb Buick V8 would need about 90 octane. The 10.25:1 4 barrel carb engine would need about 102 octane. Naturally, this is not a hard and fast rule, just a guide. Your gas is a lot higher octane than we get here in Canada. I would suggest using the regular gas in the standard engine, premium in the high compression engine. But, you will want to experiment to find out what gas suits your engine best. Sometimes the brand makes a difference, some engines run better on one brand than another. I would also suggest adding some upper cylinder lubricant to pre 1970s engines running on unleaded, for peace of mind and to protect the valves. Redex, Marvel Mystery Oil, Bardahl or your favorite brand. It probably isn't necessary since you won't be running the car hard enough to burn the valves but, better to be safe than sorry.
  11. What is wrong with the stock Buick brakes? I am sure there is a disc brake for your car, if not specifically Riviera then for another model Buick that came with discs. For normal road use I would rather have the factory brakes.
  12. You need to be careful, hardware stores sell V belts too, that are not rated for high speed. OK for a washing machine but will not last on a car. If you buy from a non automotive supplier you should be aware of this.
  13. I was thinking of the very powerful, but small and light batteries used in hand tools. You can buy spare batteries at Home Depot or maybe online. But, the jump start battery is a good idea too. If you wish to keep a stock apearance it is possible to install an "invisible" alternator under the car, driven off the driveshaft. It will not work while stopped but will charge your battery while moving. There are some very small efficient alternators on small Japanese cars today, that are not much bigger than a grapefruit.
  14. 1968 was 2 years before unleaded was introduced in the US. So your car was not built for unleaded. Do not panic, unleaded will not ruin your motor. If you are worried add some Redex, Marvel Mystery Oil, or your favorite upper cylinder lubricant to the gas. High octane fuel is recommended especially the high compression, 4 barrel carburetor model. The standard 350 with 2 barrel carb has 9:1 compression, marginal for regular but you could try it and see how it works. High perf and 4 barrel models have 10.25:1 compression and definitely need high octane fuel. Can you tell me the octane of the regular and high octane fuel in your area?