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Rusty_OToole

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Rusty_OToole last won the day on April 6 2019

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  1. Ply33 is right. We are used to cars that are very high geared for better mileage, pretty much all cars have been built that way since the 70s. Earlier cars with 3 speed manual transmissions were geared for easy driving with minimal gear shifting in the low speed, 10 - 40 MPH range. They could easily cruise at 55 or 60 but that was about the limit of roads and tires of the day. That was considered high speed at the time and the engine was revving fast to our ears, but if in good condition it did no harm. Easiest and cheapest way to lower RPM is to put on oversize tires. Change the s
  2. In the 1930s in London there were dealers who specialized in "replica" cars or bodies. That meant, they would buy a used, 10 year old Rolls Royce or other high grade car and have it rebodied in the latest style. The result was what appeared to be a new car for a much lower price. I don't know who made the bodies, but it sounds like the kind of thing Corsica might have had a hand in.
  3. Check your compression and oil pressure. You may be due for an overhaul or engine rebuild. Your car should be capable of cruising at 55 or 60 with a top speed of 85 or so, at least it did when new. If compression is over 100 PSI (120 is ideal) an not more than 10 pounds difference between cylinders, and you have 30 lbs oil pressure @ 30 MPH it's time to do a tuneup, or check the exhaust for a blockage, if the engine is heating up.
  4. Drive it. The advise that it may need breaking in, is good. Use thin oil like 10W30, thick oil will not cure oil burning but thin oil might free up stuck rings, valve seals etc. Start with a few short drives of 10 or 20 miles and if all is well, with no overheating, funny smells, leaks or low oil pressure you can try a few longer trips. 100 miles in a day is minimal for thoroughly warming up the engine and starting to work things loose.
  5. The starter needs a big ground wire. If the engine is grounded to the battery then a small wire will do to ground the body and frame. If the battery grounds the frame or body then you want a larger ground wire to the engine. Engine, frame and body are separated by rubber.
  6. I can see how it would get monotonous, replacing the roof on your car every 25 or 30 years. Are you sure the smooth oilcloth was the original covering?
  7. Chrysler products used circuit breakers, not the cheap fuses used by inferior makes. Usually found behind the instrument panel scattered around. The wiring diagram should help track them down. All metal parts of the chassis and body should be grounded. Your ground can go to any handy screw or bolt, if there isn't one you can drill a hole and stick a screw in the firewall. Make sure you have metal to metal contact. Also, you need a ground wire connecting the frame to the body. If there is not one under the hood someplace you should add one. Usually they find a ground without it but
  8. A local architectural salvage company had a 1937 International 2 ton truck for some 20 years. Mostly as a display by their entrance but did use it from time to time, along with a fifties Dodge Power Wagon. Haven't seen either in a while.
  9. Brewster was an old line coachbuilder who supplied carriages to rich New Yorkers starting in 1810. When cars came in they began making car bodies of the highest quality. One problem was that most high grade chassis were enormous with huge powerful engines and long wheelbase frames. Not very suitable for city use. They did make some town cars on imported chassis by Renault and others. Then, they made their own chassis with the long lived "silent Knight" engine. It was built more or less along the lines of a London taxicab, with short wheelbase, sharp turning radius, small high torqu
  10. Could it be a Brewster 4 cylinder from the teens or early twenties?
  11. Keep it 6v. Chryslers were an expensive well made car with a lot of electrical equipment not seen on cheaper makes, like electric wipers where Ford and Chev used vacuum, the electrically controlled transmission, the fine radio, etc. This makes them almost impossible to change to 12v. There is nothing wrong with the 6v system if everything is working correctly. For your purpose the 6v system is much better than 12. We sometimes get agonized questions from someone with an old Chrysler that some "genius" tried to make 12v, nothing works right, and the only cure is to go back to the factory 6v set
  12. Time will take care of it. Put on the new top, in a year it will look fine.
  13. Looks moldy to me too. Clean it off and go for a drive. If it bothers you spray the wires with WD40 from time to time. You may be right about the damp storage conditions.
  14. Just like every Japanese motorcycle of the sixties and seventies. Not sure if they ever stopped doing bubblegum welds, the ones I am familiar with looked awful. But they never broke.
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