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About cudaman

  • Birthday 05/03/1956

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    Hillsboro, MO USA
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  1. It threads onto the rear wheel hub in place of the hubcap, then you tighten it down to apply pressure in the direction to pull off the wheel. Here is one that the vendors sell for Model T Fords. Different makes and model of cars have different hub diameters and thread pitches, of course. https://www.modeltford.com/item/2800WP.aspx
  2. Yesterday I received a refund and a call from George's wife telling me she was sending back the Flanders hub cap I had sent as a pattern for a custom hub puller. George had serious complications from his surgery and lost enough blood that he required a transfusion. He is very weak and won't be able to do any work for the forseeable future. Please remember him and his family in your prayers.
  3. You used to be able to buy pairs of matched length belts as a single package, but I haven't seen them in a long time.
  4. On my 1971 Plymouth GTX with the original Chrysler RV2 compressor, the first two new EPR valves we tried were bad out of the box, the third new one finally worked. I don't know whether the newer rotary compressors use such a valve or not.
  5. As Studeous says, the boxing gets hydraulically pressed into the wooden hub starting at 19:00. The steel bands around the two ends of the wooden hub help keep the hub from splitting. The "felloe" is the wood rim that the outer tenons of the spokes fit into. The felloe is made in two parts, the two metal curved plates reinforce the splice joint between the two sections of the felloe.
  6. It's a metal insert for the hub of a horse drawn wagon wheel, called the "boxing".
  7. Sad to hear. I found his website and spoke with George a month ago, at the time he was struggling with a kidney stone. His wife called back a day or two later to tell me that he went into the hospital to have the stone surgically removed and he had developed an infection. They were trying different antibiotics to find one that would be effective. I had sent him a spare hubcap from my 1912 Flanders 20 and made payment for a puller via Paypal.
  8. Hello, I am looking for at least two (more if I can find them) brass hubcaps for my Flanders 20 runabout (see pictures). They have a six-sided hex on top that is just under 1.75 inches across the flats. The ID at the bottom is 2.43 inches with 16 threads per inch. Thanks!
  9. Thanks for the offer. It's possible that my current magneto is operational, I just haven't run the car yet. I'm mainly looking for a spare at this point.
  10. Correction/update - after careful comparison of my magneto with the photos in the Flanders parts manual and a Splitdorf catalog, I have determined that the magneto on my car is a Splitdorf Model F. Similar to the Model D, but slightly smaller. Sorry for the mix-up.
  11. Great video, thank you for posting it! I'll have to try the flame test when I get my Flanders running. It now has an original Flanders carburetor that has one spring loaded air bypass valve for mixture adjustment.
  12. Update - I found some priming cups from Restoration Supply that are closer to the originals, so I installed them. If anyone with an early Studebaker needs a set of priming cups, my old ones are available.
  13. R.V. Anderson did a short run of custom Schrader thread taps and dies, you might check with him to see if he has any left: rvmodelt@netsync.net
  14. Earlier threads on the MTFCA forum indicate that Model Ts used a Schrader 777 stem with a 13/32 x 28 thread. One thread also states that prior to 1920, a larger stem with 15/32" x 26 threads was available. http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/255057.html?1324491609
  15. Thanks Layden, I don't need them right now, but I'll keep them in mind. The Splitdorf model D on my Flanders appears to be complete, it may just need to have its magnets recharged. Or, perhaps the magneto is OK but the high tension transformer and condenser are bad.
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