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Dave39MD

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Everything posted by Dave39MD

  1. You may find some info or leads here; http://www.scrippsboothregister.com/ScrippsBoothIndex.html
  2. Thanks for the info on the fluid. A friend gave me a vile of Sun manometer fluid and said it worked good in his gauge. I don't want to do it twice so I will get the correct fluid. Just curious does the .85 SG manometer fluid make it read low, high, or not at all? Thanks Dave
  3. You can get manometer fluid, try googling it. Dave
  4. About 1963 in the suburbs of Detroit my across the street neighbor was an air force vet who flew for GM and he drove a 61 Maroon Corvette. Most every year on his birthday he would buzz his house (and ours) with a P 51 Mustang or the company Convair. Different times. The builder next to him, also a decorated veteran, always drove Cadillac convertibles. The neighbor next to him had several vintage Cadillacs along with the usual. Most everyone worked or supplied the booming car industry. Dave
  5. In mine i have had to go through all of the joints and clevis pins in the system and replace with new. There was a lot of lost motion because of wear. Many others have had to remove the rivets and replace the bushings where the cross shaft rod turns. Keep lubing the cross shaft maybe you can free it up and it wont have too much play. Dave
  6. The arm on the cross shaft is adjustable but yours looks like it should work but may need to be moved a little. On my 29 the pedal moves the arm back and on my 31 it moves it forward. Maybe someone put the switch backwards. Not sure on your truck but you may be able to pull the floor board and watch the action or get a helper. I have been successful cleaning the contacts on those switches just go easy. Good luck Dave
  7. Nice car. Getting that radio in looks like a fun job! Great luck on the interior. Dave
  8. That is really nice work. I have been preparing and painting my 31 Chevy and can appreciate the hard work involved in such a great result. Dave
  9. Paul did an excellent job and it has been through many heat cycles. Dave
  10. My grandfather got this lathe around 1900 and it was old then. Not sure of it's use but my mother called it a jeweler's lathe but I don't see that. Notice one of the dogs is made from a piece of old gun barrel. He did not throw anything away. Movers managed to lose the tool rest.
  11. The rear wheels spin free when jacked up, opposite directions. With the u joint semi exposed I can spin a rear wheel and see part of the u joint moving. I am stuck now at removing the flywheel cover to inspect the clutch. I am in the middle of painting my 31 Chevy and it and all the pieces are in my lift bay which is where the Buick needs to go. I am also a little worried about oil and grease getting anywhere near the paint so the Buick is patiently waiting for me to sand my finger tips away. Getting close. Thanks Dave
  12. Thanks, Good reminder I am in the VCCA but I should probably put a print ad in the G&D rather than just the forum. Not everyone is online. Dayton might be able to build a new wheel using a good hub but it would be adjustable spokes and expensive. Dave
  13. Good lead on Dayton. Nothing they can do with the spoke issue but they are looking at photos of the hub bolt hole problem. thanks Dave
  14. Is there someone in the business of safely repairing wire wheels? Specifically 1929 Chevrolet wheels. I have two that have no rust and run true but one has a couple of broken/missing spokes and the other has 5 of the 6 hub bolt holes wallowed out from running loose or the wrong lug nuts. Has anyone done this type of repair themselves? I am searching for a better one but they are one year only and mid year option introduction so hard to find. Dave
  15. Looking for a decent 29 Chevy wire wheel. The rim is for a 20" tire and the diameter measures 21 5/16" by 4 1/16" over all. The drop center measures 2 3/4". Six hub bolts 5 1/2" on center across with 2 3/4" spacing on center. Picture attached; Thanks Dave
  16. Sounds like a good idea, I'll try some pb on it later today . No worries on the suggestions, keep them coming. Thanks Dave
  17. Pictures are great and welcome to the forum. The AACA is a great place and this forum, and it's members should be a big help. Dave
  18. The housing has been in place for 90 years by the looks if it and does not want to cooperate. I do not want to break anything so I am being patient. I have the four bolts off the bottom and the three on the side that hold the fuel line clips. There are two locating pins between the bottom bolts and I am thinking of applying non flammable heat on these to see if I can loosen it up. Thanks Dave
  19. Yes you are right and the rear end and tranny look very heavy. The transmission is the size of 3, 31 Chevy transmissions. I have a lift which will help. I think the sequence will be remove all brake rods and anything connected to the rear end or transmission like pedals, handles, and switches. Raise the car and remove the u bolts holding the rear end. Disconnect the drive shaft at the u joint. Lower the car and remove the rear most spring hanger. Then roll the assembly out of the way. For the transmission I am thinking of making a cradle to keep it level and straight for the tranny jack and installing a couple of guide studs to remove and install it straight. The Buick manual presumes I know what I am doing and my Motors only goes back to 35 so if anyone has any suggestions I am certainly open to them. Thanks Dave
  20. Thanks Dave, great info. I found the sheet metal / felt cover in front of the bellhousing but did not see that the bottom comes off. Maybe I better get a better set of glasses before going any further! Dave
  21. Good idea, thanks Mark. I was able to move the collar back enough to see at least part of the u joint turning so the drive shaft should be okay. Dave
  22. I experienced some severe clutch chatter and then a pop and lost all gears. The bay with the lift won't be available for awhile but I would like to see if I can figure out what I broke so I can start rounding up the parts. A friend suggested I check the axles and both wheels spin when the rear end is lifted and the wheels won't pull out. They also spin when in gear. I took out the floor boards hoping to find an inspection cover but there is not one on the top and the bottom doesn't show anything. I was thinking the next step might be to take the shifter out and see if the gears are turning when I spin the wheels. If not it would be drive shaft or universal, if they are turning the clutch would be suspect. What do you think of my reasoning? I any case once I free up the lift the rear end and drive shaft will need to come out at a minimum. Any advise on the job and potential pitfalls will be appreciated. Thanks Dave
  23. Thanks for sharing the photos, great cars! Dave
  24. I had a title and my car had a serial number nailed to the wood. The CHP inspector was not going to accept it and I pointed out a plate the previous owner had riveted to the frame top under the hood. It was somewhat crude with the numbers hand stamped into a piece of 1/8 " alloy. The officer was happy to accept that. I guess it all depends on the state and the particular inspector. Dave
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