Mark Shaw

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Everything posted by Mark Shaw

  1. https://finemetalrooftech.com/products/terne/
  2. The photo indicates the hinge pin is severely worn because the center part of the hinge is not aligned with the pin. Soak it with 50/50 Acetone and ATF with and without heat for a day or more. Then, center the parts & drive the pin out with a flat punch.
  3. Thanks Brian, A 3-in-1 jump starter is less $$ and provides power for any 12V accessories while providing an air pump to keep your tires properly inflated! You can also easily use the clamps to connect your car's electrical system instead of a car battery. I plug mine in at the hotel to recharge overnight when needed. If it isn't used to jump a dead car, it has enough power to run my GPS, car lights, etc. for a typical 3-4 day car tour. I have rescued many on tour who needed a jump or air for a flat tire. This is the one I carry: https://www.stanleytools.com/products/automotive-tools/power/power-station/500-instant-1000-peak-amp-jump-starter-with-compressor/j5c09
  4. I have used good old Elmer's wood glue for non-structural splits and breaks. I have also used Gorilla Glue for structural parts with good results. IMO; Thin epoxies mentioned above, are more for rotted wood or for hardening wood bodies in preparation for hard automotive paints.
  5. https://www.lexol.com/lexol/products?f[0]=field_product_type%3A84
  6. Car wax is cheap and easy to apply and remove. I protect all my brass cars this way, and it usually lasts two years or more. That's a good return on the investment here in the wet Northwest where I regularly tour all of my cars.
  7. My original 38 Buick Special has the original wood grain transfer on the dash, door and windshield moldings. It is faded, but it is clearly a transfer. The glove box door was evidently replaced or left open and out of the sun because it retains the original color in the transfer.
  8. Way to go Matt! That's an offer that will be hard to refuse! I too suggest Dave as a great parts source. Go for it Scott....
  9. It appears to be a good candidate for restoration. I am sure you will find a Buick straight 8 to replace the V8. The hot rod guys are a good source of parts to keep original cars on the road. This fact is often lost in most discussions for those deciding to restore or rod a car.
  10. Lamar, You just need tire irons, a jack & wood to make a firm base, a portable air pump, and some inner tubes.
  11. The poisons in automotive paints along with the environmental restrictions in many places make brush and roller painting a necessity. I have asthma and cannot use automotive paints that effect my breathing. I also do all my painting with all the garage doors open while I wearing a chemical mask.
  12. The latest HCCA Gazette has an excellent article on LED bulbs for cars with original gas lamps.
  13. I spray painted two of my wood body cars with single stage boat paint purchased at my local marine supply store. Wood bodies expand and contract with variations in temperature and humidity and they flex more when going over driveway aprons, etc. Boat paint is made for wood applications and will last much longer than most of the automotive paints that cure much harder and will eventually crack or chip when applied over a more flexible wood body. (Those who insist on perfect paint on wood bodied cars usually prepare the wood by applying polymers to stiffen the wood to prevent flexing). Although the finish is not the same, I believe boat paint gives my cars a more authentic appearance than many of the over-restored collector cars I often see at car shows. Since I do not frequent car shows & I regularly drive all of my cars, I have no need to use automotive paints on wood, but I do use them on steel fenders and other components. Wood body Buicks shown below:
  14. That is the engine number which Buick didn't match or document it's relationship to the frame numbers. One can only determine if the engine was made close to the date the chassis was married to the engine.
  15. Larry, Please upload this on The Prewar Buick Registry site.
  16. Yes, it saved my deep cycle winch battery that was 5 years old and totally dead. I also have an "octopus" wiring harness that rotates the smart charger when connected to multiple batteries.
  17. Yeah, but only in Michigan.... Heh heh....
  18. This is the single most common issue with updraft Buicks.
  19. I use a Genius unit that can bring back dead batteries & automatically charges and maintains 6 & 12 volt batteries.
  20. Mark Shaw

    logo lites

    Much brighter with less power draw. 6V or 12V are available for virtually all applications. Use red LED bulbs for tail lights because they are much brighter than white lights after passing through a red lens.
  21. Hugh, Congratulations! This is one of the best technical posts I have seen on this forum.
  22. Brian, I agree with all you mentioned, but shift and brake locations are not consistent for all models. My 1912 Model 34 Roadster has outside shift and brake controls. And, my 1913 Model 31 has the shift & brake controls inside the driver's door. Most right side photos won't show this because the spare location obscures it.
  23. Steve, I agree that the old oil soaked cast aluminum alloys have been virtually impossible to weld. However, I also agree with others that it is worth saving until either adhesive technology or welding techniques become available to fix it. Meanwhile, I suggest you post your need on this HCCA site: https://hcca.org/classifieds.php?want