Jump to content

Are these worth anything? 1959 Cadillac, 1971 Oldsmobile


MagicPlates

Recommended Posts

I recently inherited these two cars.  I want to get rid of them and I don't know much about cars.  I doubt either one even runs.  Anyone think they're actually worth anything?  Or should I just either scrap them or sell them cheap locally?

 

1959 Cadillac (Eldorado Biarritz?) hard top

1971 Oldsmobile Supreme

 

More/better quality pictures here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/eke4a2zdss7cx5y/AAA7GXTUfUJA1eHcmHPZ64Fja?dl=0

 

Thanks.

IMG_5446.JPG

IMG_5444.JPG

IMG_5441.JPG

IMG_5433-min.JPG

IMG_5434-min.JPG

IMG_5435-min.JPG

IMG_5432-min.JPG

IMG_5450-min.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 1959 Cadillac will have collector value,

even in its current condition.  You shouldn't

have much trouble selling it if the price is realistic.

 

It is not an Eldorado, nor an Eldorado Biarritz.

In 1959, Cadillac's premium 2-door hardtop was

the "Eldorado Seville" and its premium convertible

was the "Eldorado Biarritz."  Those names were

applied to no other body styles.  Your 4-door hardtop,

sometimes informally called the "flat-top", could be

either a Series 62 or its better-trimmed "Sedan

deVille" version.

 

Others can tell you more about the Cutlass.  Some

collector would be interested in that, too.  All the 

best to you on your sale!

 

Edited by John_S_in_Penna (see edit history)
  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1959 Cadillac is one of the most iconic and valuable fifties cars. Yours is the 4 door hardtop model which is one of the less desirable ones.

 

1971 Olds convertible, is desirable because it is a convertible, otherwise 71 Oldsmobiles set few hearts aflutter.

 

So. Both are desirable and have value, but are let down by condition. The fact that they are partly dismantled kills their value. Not many people want to get involved in such a project and those who do, know it is going to be an expensive proposition.

 

You should be able to get a few thousand dollars if you are not in a hurry but exactly how much, I could not say.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah, OK, thanks for the info.  The Biarritz was my dad's dream car, and he ALWAYS referred to it by it's full name, his "1959 Cadillac Eldorado Biarritz Convertible"... A real mouthful to be sure.  He had the convertible, in great condition for a quite some time.  This was his project. 

 

Any ideas where I would go to link up with collectors that would be interested?  I don't even know a ballpark estimate of what these may be worth... $2k?  $5k?  $20k?  No idea.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, MagicPlates said:

Any ideas where I would go to link up with collectors that would be interested?  I don't even know a ballpark estimate of what these may be worth... $2k?  $5k?  $20k?  No idea.

 

Hemmings Motor News (monthly magazine and its

accompanying website) is the premier place to sell

just about any antique car.  It reaches more serious

hobbyists than any other place.

 

For the 1959 Cadillac, you should also advertise in

the monthly magazine of the Cadillac-LaSalle Club.

There, people dedicated to Cadillacs will be sure to

see the ad.  As others noted, 1959's have a following.

 

As far as price, one respected price guide is the

"Old Cars Report Price Guide," by Krause Publications,

an imprint of F & W Media.  It comes out every 2 months

and can also be found on news-stands.  They also

produce an annual book, the "2020 Collector Car Price

Guide," which lists them as follows:

 

Your 1959 Cadillac:  $1700 as a parts car, $5100 in #5 condition.

Your 1971 Cutlass:  $1620 as a parts car, $4860 in #5 condition.

 

Descriptions:

#6 condition--parts car:  "May or may not be running, but is

weathered, wrecked, and/or stripped to the point of being useful

primarily for parts.  This is an incomplete or greatly deteriorated,

perhaps rusty vehicle that has value only as a parts donor for

other restoration projects."

 

#5 condition--restorable:  "Needs complete restoration of body,

chassis, and interior.  May or may not be running but isn't weathered,

wrecked, or stripped to the point of being useful only for parts.

This car needs everything.  It may not be operable, but it is essentially

all there and has only minor surface rust, if any rust at all.  While 

presenting a real challenge to the restorer, it won't have him doing

a lot of chasing for missing parts."

 

I think your cars are in #5 condition, better than mere parts cars.

If they weren't disassembled, partially completed projects,

they would find more interest and be better than #5.

Before disassembly, they might have been #4 or #3.  The

conditions run up to #1, a perfect award-winning show car.

I think you can price the Cadillac at $4000 or $5000 and

find some interest.

 

 

Edited by John_S_in_Penna (see edit history)
  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

33 minutes ago, GregLaR said:

I like the Cutlass.

One of the few cars I actually made money on! Even after Tommy Laferriere got his cut! 😁

 

That said this one does not look like a parts car based on what is seen so far.  

 

Magic Plates, contact local AACA region, you may get some quick interest.  If your goal is an empty garage, put a not very scary number, say 3 grand on each and take your first offer, it is often the best.  They both look restorable and while you will hear a lot of "no one wants a project anymore" each car and buyer is unique.  All you need are two guys who can envision finishing these cars up. 

 

I would take a couple hours and sort the parts to align with each car and even do a cursery cleaning to rinse off dust on some of the stuff, so it presents well.  

 

Good luck, they both seem salvageable to me fwiw. 🙂

Edited by Steve_Mack_CT (see edit history)
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just south of New Smyrna Beach off US 1 ? The Turkey Rod Run in Daytona is on, that would be the place. You have a month to get sorted out.

 

ps big thing in Florida: do you have a clean (unbranded and no lien) Florida title in your name for both ?

Edited by padgett (see edit history)
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, padgett said:

Just south of New Smyrna Beach off US 1 ? The Turkey Rod Run in Daytona is on, that would be the place. You have a month to get sorted out.

 

ps big thing in Florida: do you have a clean (unbranded and no lien) Florida title in your name for both ?

That's the place.  I grew up there and still live about 30 miles north of there now, but I work 70 miles away from home in the OPPOSITE direction.  That, coupled with having 3 kids, I have NO free time.  I've been to the Turkey Rod Run a few times when I was a kid.  Might be a good resource.  I have a clean Florida title for the Cutlass.  The one for the Caddy, I have not found yet.  Still sorting through paperwork from my parents estate, but it's been really difficult to find the time.  Since it sounds like they'll be worth less than $10k together, I think I'd rather just get them off my hands and get the house cleaned out and sold.  I'm leaning towards Steve's idea, "say 3 grand on each and take your first offer".

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Might need to add a winch to pull it on but the U-Haul car transport has no vertical gate or ramps in the back so rear overhang is not an issue. Bet my V6 Grand Cherokee could pull it (has the trailer towing package). May need a red flag on the back.

 

AutoTransportLarge.png

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

35 minutes ago, padgett said:

Might need to add a winch to pull it on but the U-Haul car transport has no vertical gate or ramps in the back so rear overhang is not an issue. Bet my V6 Grand Cherokee could pull it (has the trailer towing package). May need a red flag on the back.

 

AutoTransportLarge.png

 

 


i recently rented one of these U-Haul trailers to transport my son’s ‘71 Lancia Fulvia (little Italian coupe) and it was perfect. They are well designed and easy for amateurs to use. But to haul a ‘59 Caddy- NO WAY. 

 

 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can list the Cadillac for sale in the Cadillac/LaSalle club for free. Just join the online forum like you did here. If you have a title you will get more money than if you don’t........probably double. That said, value is not great. I would list the Cadillac at something like 7500 or best offer in thirty days...........expect to take much less, and I recommend you sell it to your first real offer......even at 3500 or less. The Olds is neat, but I would also do the same........but on eBay. For both cars, you need LOTS of photos of the cars OUTSIDE as well as their parts. The more photos you have the more interest and money you will gain. Both could go on eBay with no reserve.............but pay attention to my title and lots of photos comments. Good luck, Ed

Edited by edinmass (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

More good advice for Magic Plates.  I would only add to extract more $$ you will expend more energy.  Marque clubs exist for both, with a good chance of more knowledgeable, action oriented buyers but that means taking the time to turn those stones over.  That is the decision you have ahead of you.  Def. Post here in for sale section when you decide on your numbers, you might just score. 🙂🤞

Edited by Steve_Mack_CT (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Peter Gariepy changed the title to Are these worth anything? 1959 Cadillac, 1971 Oldsmobile
15 hours ago, padgett said:

Might need to add a winch to pull it on but the U-Haul car transport has no vertical gate or ramps in the back so rear overhang is not an issue. Bet my V6 Grand Cherokee could pull it (has the trailer towing package). May need a red flag on the back.

 

AutoTransportLarge.png

 

 

 

U Haul most likely will not rent it to haul a 59 Cadillac, the trailer deck is way too short  for the wheelbase, and it will overhang the trailer by at least 5 to 6 feet. Secondly it would be dangerous not only for you but others on the road to attempt such a foolish move to pull a heavy load with a vehicle that is under equipped.

I just had to rent a u-haul a few months ago and they wanted all of the specifics before they would rent it to me, such as tow vehicle and length,wieght of the of the vehicle being placed on the trailer. The trailer ramps were pretty steep and I could see the Caddy bottoming out on the load. 

 

13 hours ago, padgett said:

U-Haul auto trailers I rented had surge brakes that worked.

 

The brakes are supposed to work? Correct?

 

 

14 hours ago, Mark Wetherbee said:

I bet a Grand Cherokee could pull it, but could you stop it from wagging the tow vehicle on a bad downhill?

 

Towing it, and towing it safely are two very different things and that’s a lot of dead weight for a 6 cylinder to be pulling...

 

Mark, I agree with you 100% but anytime someone mentions towing Mr Padget has to tell us he can tow it with his Jeep, failing to acknowledge that pulling it is only 1/3 of the task, forgetting about controlling the trailer and being able to stop the trailer (without the trailer brakes if there is a problem) are the other 2/3 of the task

 

The Cadillac flat top is a real cool car but would be a costly car to restore and difficult to find any missing parts if needed, The Culass would be an easier sale. I agree with asking 3K each for them looking for offers. I had run into this in Florida looking for a title for one of my Fathers car. It has been awhile but I believe I had to produce a death certificate and a VIN verification and a duplicate title was issued. I was surprised how easy it was at the time.

Good Luck 

Edited by John348 (see edit history)
  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

See my glee club is still active. Was speaking from pulling car trailers since the '70s and my Jeep is specifically equipped for pulling a large trailer (and why I would not use my dolly for a 59 Caddy). BTW it is easy to test surge brakes at low speeds, just try to reverse.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, padgett said:

See my glee club is still active. Was speaking from pulling car trailers since the '70s and my Jeep is specifically equipped for pulling a large trailer (and why I would not use my dolly for a 59 Caddy). BTW it is easy to test surge brakes at low speeds, just try to reverse.

 

As far as your "glee club" I never really could sing well, thanks for sharing how to test surge brakes but that was not a question asked. You mentioned that they work, and I questioned that should work correct? 

Oh I forget. you are the only one who has any experience pulling trailers on this site. Just because you have done something for a long time does not mean you do it safely. 

Then again the fact that you even mentioned towing a 59 Caddy with a tow dolly, just the thought of it sums up a lot. 

 

Back to the sale of the cars,  I would not suggest bringing the cars to the Turkey Rod Run, way too much of an effort. I would definitely contact the focused groups on those cars. A friend of mine sold a 59 Edsel Wagon that was pretty rough and crunchy with no paperwork to somebody in Las Vegas, just on pictures. He sware's by Facebook Marketplace 

 

   

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

EBay rules may have changed, but as far as I know.

 

Keep in mind on ebay, if the buyer pays by PayPal and to protect themselves, most will, the buyer has 180 days to decide if they want to keep the item. Ebay will always support the buyer and couldn't care less about the seller. Once the buyer files a return claim, they get their money back, the car would be God knows where and it would be your responsibility to retrieve it. Any damages they caused, you can whistle for.

On top of that ebay will charge 10% of the sale in fees, and they will not refund those fees after 30 days.

 

The seller can easily wind up out the money of the sale, the fees on that sale and searching for their car.

 

Don't ask me how I know all this.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, John348 said:

 

As far as your "glee club" I never really could sing well, thanks for sharing how to test surge brakes but that was not a question asked. You mentioned that they work, and I questioned that should work correct? 

Oh I forget. you are the only one who has any experience pulling trailers on this site. Just because you have done something for a long time does not mean you do it safely. 

Then again the fact that you even mentioned towing a 59 Caddy with a tow dolly, just the thought of it sums up a lot. 

 

Back to the sale of the cars,  I would not suggest bringing the cars to the Turkey Rod Run, way too much of an effort. I would definitely contact the focused groups on those cars. A friend of mine sold a 59 Edsel Wagon that was pretty rough and crunchy with no paperwork to somebody in Las Vegas, just on pictures. He sware's by Facebook Marketplace 

 

   

if that jeep is rated for around 4500 pounds, that translates into around 8000 in redneck, but as stated earlier, you will need to stop as well

 

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

"if that jeep is rated for around 4500 pounds" actually with the factory towing package it is rated a bit higher (class III/IV frame mounted receiver. Several years ago I was rerended while stopped in a line of traffic by a Ford Truck. Truck lost and had to be towed off.) U-Haul accepts it for everything they have.

 

Just about everything I post is from my personal experience (autobiography would probably be classed as fiction) or I know enough to find the citation.

 

Politicians and some preachers use selective quotes - note if everything comes from Isaiah or Revelations,  watch out - what I said was "would not use my dolly for a 59 Caddy".

 

Frankly have no interest in towing anything larger than my Judge but the question in the earlier post was "I'm trying to picture the rig that could haul that Cadillac across the state line. Bob ". I was just responding to that question and that Florida is flat helps.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, padgett said:

U-Haul auto trailers I rented had surge brakes that worked.

 

8 hours ago, padgett said:

........................it is easy to test surge brakes at low speeds, just try to reverse.

 

Not a good test for proper surge brake operation. Really doesn't tell you what you need to know about surge brake operation, and calibration/adjustment. PARTICULARLY on a rental, the ongoing adjustments for varying loads being unknown. Of COURSE reversing against load will engage the brakes, heavy more so, or up an incline.  But again, this really doesn't mean much, if anything at all. Make sure to lock out surge brakes when maneuvering where backing up will be needed. There is an adjustment at the master cylinder which should be taken seriously when doing any freight hauling with surge brakes. You obviously don't want to lock up the trailer brakes and risk losing control of the trailer. I always like to check my tow, tie downs and hitch, after just a couple of acceleration and deceleration cycles. Next, just a few miles down the line after several full stops. I have got pretty good at feeling brakes by hand to assure proper operation. Quite certain one of those hand held I.R. thermometers could be a pretty good substitute for an experienced hand. In general, you want the greatest amount of total heat dissipation on the front brakes of the tow vehicle. Trailer brakes per axle not quite equal to, but never greater than the rear axle of the tow vehicle. This is a good way to look at it, but there may be some consideration given to tire tread design, and traction conditions.

 

Please don't be in a hurry when towing. It is easy to get lulled into a higher than prudent velocity as the hours and miles roll on. This is fundamental, and that is why towing speed limits may be 10 mph lower than single vehicle.       -    Carl 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Back to the program instead of towing discussion, both of these projects are of the desirable kind. Being on the north side of the USA/Canada border I can't really make an offer to buy due to massive exchange rate and covid-19 closures. 

BUT if anyone is willing to get them into Canada at the Port Huron Mich./ Sarnia Ont. Canada I'll buy the Cadi flat top for $6000 Canadian dollars!

Edited by Ed Luddy (see edit history)
  • Like 4
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Ed Luddy said:

Back to the program instead of towing discussion, both of these projects are of the desirable kind. Being on the north side of the USA/Canada border I can't really make an offer to buy due to massive exchange rate and covid-19 closures. 

BUT if anyone is willing to get them into Canada at the Port Huron Mich./ Sarnia Ont. Canada I'll buy the Cadi flat top for $6000 Canadian dollars!

 

'6,000 CAD to USD = $4,482.88 US Dollars at today's exchange rate

Edited by Marty Roth (see edit history)
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Ed Luddy said:

Back to the program instead of towing discussion, both of these projects are of the desirable kind. Being on the north side of the USA/Canada border I can't really make an offer to buy due to massive exchange rate and covid-19 closures. 

BUT if anyone is willing to get them into Canada at the Port Huron Mich./ Sarnia Ont. Canada I'll buy the Cadi flat top for $6000 Canadian dollars!

That's tempting.  Not exactly sure how I'd set that up though.  I might have a prospective buyer more local, but I'll keep you in mind.  Thanks.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Magic Plates, some of our knowledgeable people

here might offer recommendations on how to get

the car to the border.  One of our regulars is an

old-car dealer who undoubtedly has such experiences.

 

Project cars are more difficult to sell.

You have a bird in hand, it seems;  don't wait for

two to come out of the bush.  They might never come out.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...