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About cheezestaak2000

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 09/23/1946

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    40's and 50's cars mostly gm

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  1. there is still plenty of rural property in slower, lower, delaware. however, it is NOT near the beach areas of Lewes or Rehoboth beach. this area has been way overdeveloped and traffic there can be a nightmare. unlike other beach areas, there are a lot of people who live there year round. i live in a small town about a half hour from the beach and here it is still very laid back. the locals here never venture near the beach areas from may thru september. but a little due diligence will let you find a nice place for retirement living, and tax free shopping.
  2. more like a fancier chevy impala than an olds 88
  3. okay, here's a thought. maybe the older cars wern't all that bad at all.most us people might think they did. hell, they were all built like tanks anyway.the DMV's didn't track the milage much back then so it's possible that those cars went a lot farther than
  4. my only question is, was it submerged if fresh or salt water?
  5. you can still buy them and display them on your car here in delaware. tag number must be below 88000 to be legal but there are many on the road that have higher numbers. they rarely get ticketed for it.
  6. i'm obviously not a chemist lol, i just thought about the gas that kills you in auto exhaust. pretty much any non-flammable gas would work i guess
  7. if i remember correctly, vacuum is used to CLOSE the headlight doors. no vacuum, lights stay visible, safety default.
  8. all of those methods work, but to make it quick and easy, simply run the engine(can be from a different car), and place a hose from the tailpipe to the tank filler.that will fill the tank with carbon monoxide, and render it safe to use a torch. i've done this a few times.
  9. i seem to remember seeing only a handful of these factory units when i worked at the GM assembly plant in wilmington delaware in the mid 60's. we built full size chevies and buick wildcats and lesabres there.
  10. to add to a very good previous post, ALWAYS use a pressure brake bleeder. eliminates the need of a helper on the pedal.
  11. and after you spend a couple grand replacing the entire fuel system, and having the same problem, spend another 15 minutes, and correct that vacuume leak.
  12. i was a sales manager at a subaru dealer back in the 80's. we ran a promotion for new subys that was buy one, get one free. the free one was a yugo. i was buying new ones at the auction with c/o's for around a grand.
  13. remove the carb, turn it upside down and look for a small plug that is usually driven into bottom of fuel bowl for acess. mix a little dab of epoxy and cover it up. this was a common problem on rockchester carbs. might solve yours.
  14. try this: next time problem occurs, hook up a remote starter button( the tool used to turn engine over to find timing mark etc.) if the starter works with that, you have just eliminated ign and neutral safety switchs