C Carl

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Everything posted by C Carl

  1. Keep the wood wheels. Civilian spectators are thrilled to see them. There is something particularly impressive with dual rear spares hanging off the end of an old car with artillery wheels. See what I mean ? - CC My 1927 Cadillac
  2. Hi Earl ! Sounds like those miracle making cardiologists did a comprehensive overhaul. A few "as long as I am here, might as well........." opportunities. Getting even more rebuilt than originally anticipated will really make a significant improvement when you have fully recovered. As I am sure you have been told, full recovery takes a relatively long time. Just hang in there, follow doctor's orders, and go for a drive in your beautiful 1939 Buick as soon as you are able. You might be very glad you didn't sell it. I expect you will find that the world is an even more beautiful place (even the Sebring area), than it was before your surgery. Patience, my forum friend. Patience and courage. - Carl
  3. The 'Lac is a '70, not a '71. Pulled into "The City" 30+ years ago in a long ramp 6-pack on the way to Massachusetts to fetch a Cadillac. Spent a few days sightseeing. Stayed midtown, and found free parking for my friend Steve's stretch ramp within a couple blocks of the hotel. Would have been about 6th Ave at about 44th street. Seriously ! Free ! There was a construction project with quite a bit of signage regarding prohibited parking, and otherwise. I read it ALL, and if taken literally, there was a sufficient space for the truck which was free and open. I guess it must have been, because we were never ticketed nor impounded for the duration of our stay. That would have been on a very late June, or the first couple days of July. We came in by way of the G.W. Bridge at night. Late the next morning, with the truck secure, an unusual (to us), and unexpected, parade was going down 5th Ave, a 1/2 block from our hotel. So we checked it out. Many, many different, uhhhh, constituencies (?). One group was the old duffers, proudly cruising down 5th, smiling from beneath what was left of their white hair while waving from old pre-war cars. The parade did end on a very sad note. But not before a float went by with a couple of girlies on trapezes, one of whom looked almost like Steve's PITA redhead girlfriend. Oh "The City" ! More of everything,done better than anywhere else. And free parking to boot ! - Carl
  4. X', we all may want to pack that proverbial lunch as we wait for the big find. In compliance with my obligations as Inquisitor-in-Chief, I can say at this point things are not bearing any material fruit out there in PM land. In fact, things are getting "Curiouser and Curiouser". A full report from me will be forthcoming. I do believe we deserve an explanation. Hey ! This is a discussion forum, and I don't think I am the only one who feels hung out to dry here. Nick, oh Nick : please honor your many friends here with just a few more details regarding your original post. On behalf of all of us waiting for the oracle to speak : Thank you for your attention to this matter. - CC
  5. 1927 Cadillac. '26 had the tool box, and the battery box built into the fenders. Subtle differences in the radiator shell also, etc. - CC
  6. Well, yeah, now he says he is going to just come up and hook up the right rear line he took off to "drain" the system, bleed it and walk away. Can a system like this be bled properly without a FUNCTIONING BOOSTER ? I shouldda stopped him dead in his tracks when he decided to replace a working,and cylinder. There are plenty of people out there who will not listen to anything. Sure makes life hard.
  7. Having been duely nominated for the task, I have sent a polite request for more information by way of a PM. - CC
  8. Bloo, Wayne, jpage, and Joe : Thanks to you guys too for your continuing help. Can someone please tell me what the little white plastic device shown here is ? You see it to the left of the M.C., and a close up of top and side views. This is located at the very top of the vacuum system. Up from the port on the rear of the intake manifold, then down to the vacuum booster. No, the truck has drums all the way around. Single rear axle, two wheel cylinders per each rear brake side. The way to test for function is to drive it up to 8-10 mph dnd stop the truck a dozen times or so. Then feel the drum temperatures. Left to right on each end should be warm and equal. This truck is way too heavy for my equipment. Assumptions, rather than experimental tests and a proper diagnostic trouble shooting sequence, are causing problems around here. In my experience, nothing wastes more time, and causes more problems then quick assumptions, rather than thinking things through to get answers. Oh man am I having an impossible time trying to learn up my young helper(s). They ASSUMED that the firewall mounted main cylinder was bad because it is very rusty on the outside. Well, I popped the top off it, and the reservoir is totally clean, and no rust. They also prematurely opened up the brake lines at all corners, before we could test anything. They seem unable to logically and unemotionally discuss the situation without delicate, youthful egos getting bruised. Their solution, after making a couple of time consuming mistakes, is to pick up their marbles and go home. But they are young yet. I think I can remember when I was a lesser mature kid their age. Yes, 58 years old seems young to me these days. How do you deal with a situation like this ? But what is that white plastic device anyway ? - Carl
  9. Who volunteers to send '8086 a PM ?
  10. No, it is not hydro boost. My '76 Eldo has it, but the truck does not. Frank, what you and Al say makes sense. It will probably be necessary to replace every cylinder in the system. Due to the size and weight of the wheels, drums, and the two ton truck itself, it is beyond my capacity at this time. In any case, I do realize that little used hydraulic brakes really should be completely gone through if they develop any problems. Short cuts in brake maintenance are not advisable. Thank you all for your help. I think I need to come up with a plan B for the near future. Glad my two oldest vehicles have mechanical brakes ! - Carl
  11. Check my posting in Technical. '76 GMC 6000...................... Thank you. - Carl
  12. Along with everyone else, I just wish we could get a little more info. Again, nick8086, please give us a new clue or two. The suspense is hard to handle. - CC
  13. I don't know if there is vacuum yet. Of course that should be verified. I have a guy helping me, because I cannot do much wrenching any more. He is inclined to replace the master cylinder, (which he has already bought), flush, and replace the brake fluid. Myself, I think that is pretty much a waste of time. The pedal is firm, and needs no pumping at all. The entire vacuum side should be the first step. Next a new booster. I need to get this wrapped up by Wednesday, and go back over the mountains Thursday. I am at near panic stage, and don't know how long it will take to get this booster to Ellensburg. Originally I had an extra week. But my friend had a family emergency, and now I don't have the luxury of the superfluous, extra, out of sequence step any more. If it absolutely can not be the master cylinder which you and I believe to be the case, then the fairly circuitous vacuum maze must be checked. Any tips there ? But I do feel that if the booster is bad, then might as well replace the old master, as it is cheap, and easy. Does everyone agree with this analysis ? Anyone to the contrary ? I just do not have anymore time to lose. Is there any way in the world that the master cylinder itself could cause the problem ? Thanks, - Carl
  14. In the decade or so I have owned this tough $600 antique truck, I have only driven it about 200 miles. It has a 350, and Allison transmission. A huge 4000# liftgate, and it is time to work it. All I have done is oil change, and trans filter and new ATF. Sat for a year or two, and when I fired it up and took it out for a test drive, there was no boost to the brakes. With about 3000# load, at 10 mph down a slight grade, I could stop it gradually with full 2 leg pressure. Brake pedal very firm with no bleed down whatsoever. Both front drums slightly warm after 2 or 3 stops. Inspection shows no signs of leaking anywhere, but I can not pull the rear duals and drums out here. I did not do a temperature touch test on the rears. I doubt I could have felt any warming on the rears anyway. Brake fluid quite low, but nothing normal brake wear would not account for. My feeling was that I needed a new booster. Since the system will be opened up, gonna put a new master cylinder on it anyway, and do an alcohol flush/new brake fluid, and bleed it. Crawling under, the booster has been replaced before I picked it up out of University of Washington surplus. The cylinder on the firewall looks to be prehistoric. Question is : Is there any possibility that just picking the low hanging fruit on the firewall, that this could be the problem ? My intuition says no, but I have never worked on a system like this. Obviously, going to check all vacuum lines and connections. Would there be a check valve anywhere ? Any other tips such as bleed sequence (notice the bleed valve on the cylinder on the booster). Thanks for any help in getting this rig to properly stop. Time and money scarce in these parts these days. - Carl
  15. $7554.86 !!!! Man ! This guy REALLY knows the EXACT value of things. Wonder if he'd just knock off the 86 cents ? - CC
  16. Dear nick8086, I just checked the calendar. It is NOT April 1st. You have 463 views at this point, nick8086. Please give us more information. Otherwise we are indeed wasting time. This will just end up being a "wisecrack magnet", and continuing frustration. Did you REALLY come across a Ferrari project ? More information, please. Or is it time for the punch line ? Your good forum friend, and sometimes fellow night owl, - Cadillac Carl
  17. GS66, I think non-operating tail lights would be the least of your worries at auction. Buyer beware. And KevinVal : what kind of "Classic car" are you looking to buy at a classic car auction ? Buyer beware. I have got extremely good deals on work trucks at auction. A couple of them are actually classified as antiques by AACA ! - Carl
  18. '8086 - '8086, calling '8086.. Come in '8086. Clarification needed '8086. Come in '8086. Please spare us. '8086 - '8086 - '8086, what are you really talking about, '8086 ? Come in '8086. - 'Carl
  19. Welllllllllllll............. I called Bill, who is K'31s friend with the R&Ts. I had hoped to replace my '50s &'60s mags which formed part of my automotive youth. It would have been fun to refresh my memory. Yes, there was a reverence for old performance "sports cars".'I remember stuff like K3 MG, Jag SS100, 1750 Alfa, 35 and 51 Bugattis, and the like. The then current exotic wheels are now such desirable relics, that they are more out of reach than when new. And I remember each month featured a real, authentic masterpiece, a car from the Classic period of automobile evolution. From the last Duesenberg built, to a beautiful Du Pont, to Turk Murphys Rolls Royce, and so on. Turns out, Bill's mags start at about 1964, so will have little overlap with my origins. They are shuffled, and in no order. Bill is moving, and must be rolling out July 26th. It would be a bit of a hassle for him, and K'31 is pretty busy. If there is someone nearby, please go save these R&Ts. They will end up as recycling if no one goes for them. Any of you old fossils remember the brand spanking new "Bug' in a box" for sale in the classifieds ? Yeah, I think it was a Type 35, crated, in Australia. What was it they wanted for it back then ? $4000 was it ? But that was a chunk of change back in the '50s. What became of it ? What lucky mutt is driving it today ? - Carl
  20. Greg, that sounds like a VERY good idea. As there are still some mechanical issues also, (transmission ?), you absolutely MUST rely on the collective wisdom here. You have been here for years, and you know we are, for the most part, all pretty good friends. Get the consensus, and unemotionally go with it. That is the way things are. We don't make the rules, we just have to live by them. You will feel better when you get past this. I was your age just a few short years ago. If I had known what things would be like on my 75th birthday, which was a couple of days ago, I would have just dumped so much of my stuff at your age. Get what you really can, no matter how much or little that may be. Cheer up ! Things could be WORSE. And if you are lucky enough to live so long, they WILL be.Today may well be the strongest, healthiest day for the rest of your life. Enjoy every today you have left as much as you possibly can. Very best of luck to you, my friend ! - Carl
  21. JR' initiated this topic way down yonder in Buick - Pre War - Technical. Much more exposure here. BUT : please check there for a possible quick, cheap, and easy fix we have bounced around. Someone will know how to direct link to the topic, and most likely someone can give a firsthand answer to our speculation. - CC
  22. I think the amount of, the thickness of the "shim" (and perhaps the material), is critical. If it is just a few thou' thicker than the offending gap, my guess is that you would have a cure. It would be a good idea to increase exposure by posting above in General, or Technical. Since this is not a Buick specific problem, and since this shim idea occurred to both of us, certainly someone has tried it. - Carl
  23. Or, perhaps : Given that the rest of the manifold is co-planar at all holes, and the fact that the last hole is plane-parallel (little or no wedge to the gap), couldn't you simply shim/discretely gasket the end hole ? This would equalize the slack, and might permanently solve the recurrent problem. I have never done this, nor have had need to. But like (almost) all of us, have had, and am very annoyed by exhaust leaks. But unlike so many of you guys and gals, I, sadly, fall in to the lazy end of the effort spectrum. I wonder if anyone has tried this ? - Carl