Gary W Posted September 14, 2017 Author Share Posted September 14, 2017 Bob will be doing the front clip and trunk lid next. Then the doors, and finally the fenders. If you look at the photos of the shop, you may catch a glimpse of my doors and trunk against the wall of his shop. The seat springs were stripped bare. Cleaned up, sprayed black and are being re-covered in a brown Bedford Cord. I got the upholstery kit from LeBaron Bonney. If I needed replacement springs, I would call Snyder's in Ohio. I think they can do any dimension you need. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GARY F Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 another outstanding job on the heater and that black looks great. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 Great looking work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary W Posted September 16, 2017 Author Share Posted September 16, 2017 Friday September 15, 2017: Paint update ....... and getting things ready for the "body drop" in two days I stopped by the paint shop today after work. The rubberized undercoat is applied to the interior, the trunk and the area where the rear fenders bolt to the car. It sure is a nice contrast, especially the door jambs. Bob was finishing the hand rubbing today, and I will be picking up the main body this Sunday. So....speaking of Sunday, I am trying to get the chassis all ready for the body drop. Tonight I inserted the body studs in the #1 position, (I think it will help line up the body on Sunday) and used a 3M adhesive to stick the remaining body mounts to the frame. They do go in specific places, so I numbered everything just so I didn't mess it up. I finished running the ground wire to the fuel sending unit, and attached the wire to the sending unit that actually attaches to the trunk harness and triggers the gauge. I finally got the fuel tank filler tube support bracket attached and tightened up. A few photos of the day: It's pretty much all done. You can see Bob in the rear window finishing up the hand rubbing. Here you can really see the contrast from the gloss to the rubberized undercoat in the trunk This photo is a little dark, but the black really shines. The trunk finished with the undercoat. Right rear wheel well Left rear wheel well Remember that 3M Seam Sealer? This is how that area turned out. Tough to photograph gloss and black. Fuel Sending Unit Ground Wire: I bought a 12 gauge wire and that black asphalt laden cloth wire loom. 104 inches of each and it took forever to get that cloth covered wire through that casing. Even though the car will be grounded directly to the engine, I did run a "0" gauge wire from the ( - ) post to the frame also, so I could attach this wire directly from that bolt. Once through, I was able to solder the eyes to each end, and bring the loom up for a nice, authentic finish. The wire is connected for the gas gauge and the ground is attached. (What is that extra screw head for on the side of the sending unit?) FYI: A Model "A" Ford "Starter Rod Grommet" fits the Buick chassis holes perfectly and is a nice finish if you need to run wires through the frame. Only 97 cents! I used this 3M Adhesive to attach the rubber body mounts to the frame. I thought it would make the body drop much easier on Sunday if these stayed in position while we align the body to the frame. I did install both #1 studs up front, so I think that will really help with the alignment. Bob taught me to pull up and down a few times to create a stringy feel, then set the rubber in position. I used a block of wood along the chassis rail to align each rubber mount. Getting excited for Sunday Morning! Have a great night Gary 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted September 16, 2017 Share Posted September 16, 2017 White gloves and white shirt! You da man! Ben 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Wiegand Posted September 16, 2017 Share Posted September 16, 2017 Hey Ben, I just noticed something for the very first time when I opened Gary's thread up tonight. In the very first photo that he posted, the car does not have a visor on it. Would you have any suggestions for him about that? Terry Wiegand Out Doo Dah Way 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted September 16, 2017 Share Posted September 16, 2017 6 hours ago, Terry Wiegand said: Hey Ben, I just noticed something for the very first time when I opened Gary's thread up tonight. In the very first photo that he posted, the car does not have a visor on it. Would you have any suggestions for him about that? Terry Wiegand Out Doo Dah Way You been talking to Dale? Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted September 16, 2017 Share Posted September 16, 2017 Fabulous work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GARY F Posted September 16, 2017 Share Posted September 16, 2017 Besides white shirt and gloves, look at the shine on the shoes. Great job Gary. i cant wait to see the body back on. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary W Posted September 16, 2017 Author Share Posted September 16, 2017 Saturday September 16, 2017: Last minute chassis items before dropping the body. And some other fun stuff too! My crew is all set for tomorrow. We are meeting at my house at 6:30 am, positioning the trailer and loading the chassis on and heading over to Bob's shop to drop the body onto the frame. Hopefully it all goes the way I see it in my head, but who knows...... Today I tried to get a few more things done, and get tools laid out that I think I'll need tomorrow morning. Accelerator Linkage Restoration: Removing the accelerator linkage from the firewall in February. Every part was rusted. After wire-wheeling all the parts and lightly sanding. I used the self etching primer and the trim black. Bob thought the contrast of the glossy firewall and the trim black would look nice. Outside priming. Allow to dry 90 minutes and then apply the Trim Black. Everything off the tree, and again, referring to my notes, drawings and photos to get everything aligned properly. Ready to be re-installed! Painting the recesses in the rest of the chrome parts: Steering column ignition switch. Being the steering column was bolted to the frame (for photos), It was easy to work on because it was nice and stable. I started by cleaning out 80 years of finger crud with a brass wire (Model "T" Choke pull rod) Once the details are all cleaned out, I started applying the black paint in the grooves. Wipe it down, leaving the black in the recesses. The detail looks great. Even the bottom "squared-off" ends held their shape all these years! When the detail dried, I removed the steering column and masked off the brown paint and gave the box a nice coat of Trim Black. I left the column off the chassis to make the body drop easier tomorrow. (I also removed the transmission top as well so we only have to clear the pedals) Trunk hinges and the dome lamp switch were next on the menu. Same technique. Brush the paint in the details then wipe it off. Ready to install! On a previous post, it was suggested that I treat the recesses in the speaker grille the same way. So the last part I did was the speaker grille. These details are much thinner and it takes a little more time to get this piece nice. I REALLY like the way the details look with the paint. Sets it off nicely! So now she's all ready to be pushed out tomorrow morning. I'm bringing all the body bolts and a few tools. Looking forward to tomorrow!!! Have a great night Gary 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daves1940Buick56S Posted September 16, 2017 Share Posted September 16, 2017 Tomorrow's the day!!! Wow! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pont35cpe Posted September 17, 2017 Share Posted September 17, 2017 Gary, I`ll sleep better now knowing you`ve detailed the speaker grille.. Excellent!! Tom 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted September 17, 2017 Share Posted September 17, 2017 On 9/15/2017 at 7:03 PM, Gary W said: (What is that extra screw head for on the side of the sending unit?) Are you sure it isn't a rivet? It holds one end of the variable resistor in place. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary W Posted September 17, 2017 Author Share Posted September 17, 2017 Sunday September 17, 2017: The Marriage! Details of how the we mounted the body to the frame (Sung to the tune " I get by with a little help from my friends") I got up early, grabbed coffee, bagels and stuff like that. Moved all the cars out of the driveway into the street. Including Bob over at the shop, we were six guys altogether. ( You need six guys. ) It really is a very coordinated ballet to get everything in sync. I am very, very thankful for the "car guys" that gave up their Sunday morning. Everything went very smooth and I want to share the photos of the morning. (Hope there's not too many, but I do have a series that is a step - by - step process) The "crew" began arriving at 6:20 am. Here Goes! What more do a bunch of guys need? Little grease on the bagels.... no big deal! The chassis ready to roll. Parts and wrenches on the gas tank and the front clip and other parts ready to get painted next. We used the hill to help load the chassis. Actually used the brakes the whole way to steady the descent. ( At least I know the brakes work!) These tire straps are great! And off we go to the paint shop. Bob was waiting for us. The body was still sitting on the four jack stands, and the crane was ready to go. Untethered and off the trailer, we began to roll the chassis to the body to line it up. It took a few maneuvers to get the frame in a good position. Ron and Bob looking things over. This is when I realized how high we will have to lift the body to clear the side rails. So we all grabbed a spot while John and Mike began rolling the chassis under the body. We had the rear end way too low at this point. Bob cranked up the rear end a little more and we all held the body up high. Ron had the passenger's side, I got the drivers side. At this point the passengers side had to be lifted higher to clear the gas filler pipe that was coming back. So I jumped over to give Ron a hand. Here, Ron got the passenger's side #1 stud and body mounting hole lined up. The driver's side body hole was behind the stud. So, as Bob directed me, I lifted and pushed the rear of the body to the left, which effectively allowed the driver's side stud / body hole to properly align. Once the front was dropped over the studs, it was time to S L O W L Y release the crane to lower the body down. We were carefully watching that the body cleared the frame rails without doing any damage. Here you see Tony guiding the drivers side down. Everyone was monitoring their area to be sure the body came down nice and even with no bumping, scratching....... John is 87. Still gets under and around pulling and tugging the body to line things up. Over on my side, Mike and I were watching that everything cleared and sat nicely on the frame. Sigh of relief! She dropped down perfectly, as if it's been there for 80 years! Remember all those rubber body mounts I glued to the frame? Look how nice they lined up! Once down, the crew listens as John directs the body bolt placement for the ride home. Here is a familiar view. We lightly tightened the front two studs, and placed the #7 body bolts in the trunk mounting holes just to keep the body from shifting on the way home. We uncoupled the crane and began to push the car out of Bob's shop. Rolling her out into the daylight! The paint looks amazing outside. Time to get her strapped on to the trailer for the ride home. Pushed her up and placed a wheel chock behind the front wheel. Then Mike tied down the wheels like before. Here's a happy boy! I was so glad the body drop went so smoothly. Back home and off the trailer. And now taking it's place in the garage for the build phase of the restoration. A heartfelt " T H A N K S " to the guys. From Left to Right: Mike, Me, John, Tony, Ron and Bob. You really need a good pit crew when these jobs come up. I really appreciate all the help. Could not have accomplished this without them. All in all............a very good day! Have a great night Gary 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
27donb Posted September 17, 2017 Share Posted September 17, 2017 All that great rewarding work and you still find time to update the forum, and with pictures! Thank you! Looks great! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 Very nice, HAPPY for YOU, Dale in Indy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daves1940Buick56S Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 I love your "crew lube' donuts 'n' coffee. I hope once the sun was over the yardarm you broke out the brewskis! They're good for after the task post-mortems! Cheers, Dave 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glassesguy Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 Congrats to you and your crew. Great work!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgreen Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 12 hours ago, Gary W said: (Hope there's not too many, but I do have a series that is a step - by - step process) Definitely not too many pictures, I continue to enjoy watching your work. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pont35cpe Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 No words were needed Gary, the huge grin on your face says it all.. Tom 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stooge Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 Gary, as someone who recently acquired their first '37 Buick century coupe, albeit completely blown apart, this thread is priceless and after years of lurking on these forums, has compelled me to join! The thoroughness, attention to detail, and willingness to share your work and detail the processes, have helped me in more ways than I can count, while going through and inventorying what i am missing, what goes where, etc. Very happy to see the body meeting the chassis once again, its all looking quite beautiful! thanks again for your hard work both on the car, as well as sharing your projects, its very appreciated! 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LAS VEGAS DAVE Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 Great job you guys. As always I watch this thread with glee. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary W Posted September 18, 2017 Author Share Posted September 18, 2017 Monday Morning September 18, 2017: Video of us Mounting the Body to the Chassis It only took us just under 6 minutes to mount the body to the frame once we had the frame fairly lined up to the body. For anyone interested: 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLYER15015 Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 (edited) Looking good Gary ! Now just remember to turn all the nuts and bolts to the right, and you will be done in no time. Mike in Colorado Edited September 18, 2017 by FLYER15015 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GARY F Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 That is going to be a black beauty. great work guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary W Posted September 19, 2017 Author Share Posted September 19, 2017 Tuesday September 19, 2017: Starting the "Build Phase" and some paint shop updates: Body Bolts: We got all 12 Body Bolts installed. "Finger tight, then two turns". Tightened the front two studs the same degree to allow the body to seat. So now all 14 body mounting points are settled. I actually had to lift the rear a little to get the #6 bolts to go through the rubber mount. When the body dropped the mount slid a little down the frame rail. ( A 2X4 fits perfectly between the gas tank and the rear of the body to get a little lift) I was able to restore and reuse all but two of the original body bolts. Firewall Insulator: I got a new firewall insulator. My original was disgusting. But, as I was marking out for areas that needed a little trim, I noticed that the new one isn't NEARLY as thick as the original. So, although I worked restoring the original large-headed attachment screws, ( even painting the head brown and the threads black!) I don't think I can re-use them. They stick out way too far into the engine compartment. Here, I'm opening up some of the holes that were not aligned. Then you have to clean up some of the batting that will show through the firewall. End view of the original. It has a "particle board-like" material and a layer of batting behind the leather firewall cover. All - in - all it's about 1 1/2" thick. the new replacement is only about 3/8" so I'm going to look for different fasteners. Cowl Vent Rubber Seal: New seal from Steele. Fit nicely, needed a little trim on the passenger's side so it would fit without binding. After a couple of dry fits, I protected the paint, applied the 3M adhesive into the groove, sat the cowl vent seal, and tucked it in nicely. To have it set up nice and level, I placed the cowl vent cover on top of the rubber seal, and checked all my gaps for uniformity. Satisfied that the cover was centered and level all around...... I covered the vent with a towel and put a little weight on it to keep it nice until the adhesive tacks up. Done. Body Work on the Front Clip: I dropped the front clip and a few other assorted parts for painting on Sunday when we dropped the body. I don't know if you can make it out in the photo, but the lower section of the front nose was dented and dinged. Today I stopped by the shop, and watched Bob as he used these tools to..... Hammer and dolly all the dings and dents out. Taking his time, he was able to reshape the metal right in front of my eyes. It was so cool watching him rework the metal back into shape. Next he used this body file. By tightening or loosening the top, you can arch the cutting edge. Next came a little light grinding to begin to smooth out the marks left by the file. It just amazes me how he re-created the original shape with no filler at all! I love going down to the shop to watch the "old school" techniques being applied. One more: Unrelated but I thought this before and after was really cool: B E F O R E A N D A F T E R : Have a wonderful day! Gary 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted September 20, 2017 Share Posted September 20, 2017 Gary: Before you permanently install the firewall insulator get the new foil faced insulation material for behind it. These straight eights do put out a lot of heat! It was on my to do list. After 3 over 1,500 mile trips in 90-100+ degree heat it would have really helped. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted September 20, 2017 Share Posted September 20, 2017 The pad holding screws Bobs Automobilia has are threaded all the way and will work. A touch pticy. I had thought of seperating the padding from the original but didnt. I also killed the gloss of the new insulator with fine steel wool. I felt the new one was too shiny. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary W Posted September 21, 2017 Author Share Posted September 21, 2017 Wednesday September 20, 2017: Progress Report Started getting a couple of things installed while I'm waiting for my Dynamat to arrive so I can secure the firewall cover and begin wiring. Here's a quick rundown of tonights projects: Cowl vent mechanism all installed and functioning nice and easy. The Trim Black looks great against the gloss black. Installed the emergency brake. I like the Savoy Brown color. NOS Voltage regulator from Dave Tachney. Installed the Voltage Regulator and the Horn Relay. The High Beam Switch The Throttle linkage The door striker plates. Comparison photos: Firewall Accelerator Linkage Emergency Brake Have a good evening! Gary 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary W Posted September 21, 2017 Author Share Posted September 21, 2017 Thursday Morning, September 21, 2017: Paint Progress Stopped in to see how the front clip are coming along. The clip and headlamps are in yellow "self-etching" prime and going into build up primer today for Monday paint. Bob did find that the radiator support has a slight bend in it. So tomorrow I'm going to stop by with the radiator and the chrome strip to double check the fitment. He is going to use his "porta-power" to straighten out the upright once we double check the radiator. The next batch of parts are hanging in the shop in yellow "self-etching" prime. Here's how the lower repair came out. Nice and smooth now that's it sanded and primed. Headlamps are also sanded out and primed. This will be the next batch I take delivery of. Then I can wire through and hopefully make some progress. See the bend on the left upright, just above the horizontal support brace? It obviously was in the car like this and everything aligned fine, but being I had the radiator re-cored I'm going to bring it down to the shop to double check the fit. Even if we use the porta - power to move it out just a little. I'm not looking to upset the radiator fit or the fender fit. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary W Posted September 22, 2017 Author Share Posted September 22, 2017 Thursday September 21, 2017: Begin Wiring Tonight I began running wires. I figured since the firewall insulator is not installed yet, I'll get going on the dome light and the trunk wire kit. Here's the dome light, Body and Tail lights harness kit. I started with the Dome Light. Took my time to run the wires down the pillar The wires all have nice tags on them to guide the installation Once the dome light was wired, I ran a new ground to the side frame. Then I pushed a 9V battery to the instrument cluster mounting stud, got the "forked" end to stick in the other side of the battery. When I touched the two wires together..... Bingo!!! The lamp lit and the first electrical connection is confirmed. (I'll drop the dome lamp to install the headliner, but just had to check it out!) I guess the car has a good ground if that little 9V battery did the trick. Trunk Harness: I actually started in the middle. Ran the 3-prong female plug forward, down the pillar and fit it into the ring and bent about 6 tabs over to hold it. The trunk end ran over the rear window, through an opening on the left side of the trunk. Perfectly cut, it fit into all the clips and ran neatly down the inside lip of the trunk. The fuel sending unit wire coming through the rear floor of the trunk. (Is there supposed to be a grommet here? Is this the correct location for that wire to come through?) The tail lamp wires exit through grommets to the outside. All - in - all a very nicely made harness, and an easy install. Thanks for following along and have a great day! Gary 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlymouthPE Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 I'm by no means an expert but would put a grommet on the sending unit wire to prevent any chafing and potential problems down the road. If not concours correct the grommet can be removed for show!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted September 23, 2017 Share Posted September 23, 2017 There is a grommet on the fuel wire. Not only does it protect the wire, it keeps crud from getting into the trunk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted September 23, 2017 Share Posted September 23, 2017 Gary : Good to see the wiring going in. Since my headliner was still very nice and original, Penn Dutch took the new wiring harness rear body loom along the sill to avoid tearing out the headliner. I still would like to have my dome light working at some time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary W Posted September 23, 2017 Author Share Posted September 23, 2017 Friday September 22, 2017: Paint update, Firewall Pad and Engine / Dash wiring harness I stopped by the paint shop briefly after work to check on things. Bob used the Porta-Power to straighten that indentation on the radiator support upright. I bought my trim strip and the radiator to the shop with me to double check fitment before final paint. All Good! When I got home, I measured and installed a 1/2" thick Dyna Pad onto the firewall, then fit and installed the new brown "leather-ish" firewall pad over that. I was able to use my original fasteners and I'm sure it will stop some of the heat and noise. Once the firewall install was settled (NOT an easy job by yourself!), I decided to at least open the engine wire harness to start getting a layout of where things go. Then I figured "let me just push the bulk through the firewall grommet"......and then, may as well wire the solenoid side, looks easy. Well, by 9:45, the engine stuff was sorted and installed and it is a nice kit. *** Couple things **** 1. On the solenoid, the wiring diagram shows one yellow wire to the "starter" and one to the "ground" terminals. Which is which? Or does it matter as long as the wire to the vacuum start switch is consistent? 2. There is a white wire that attaches to the "F" generator post and the "F" Voltage regulator post. It is much too short at the VR end, necessitating the harness to run between the VR and the Horn Relay. I don't like it there, and it may interfere with mounting the horns. I was thinking maybe mounting the VR upside down? I may have to cut the white wire and elongate it. I just don't like the way it looks between the two. Paint Shop Update: Bob used the Porta-Power to straighten the indentation. He used this angle because there is more metal at the corner and it reduces the risk of the other side bending out. He then measured it and made sure it was all square. It's spot on. I bought my radiator to the shop and the holes line up perfectly. Then I bought my stainless trim piece just to check, and everything looks really nice. FIREWALL PAD: This firewall pad has the jute and the foil built into it. It's just too thin to re-use my original fasteners. So I ordered this "Dynaliner" which is 1/2" thick, I was able to fabricate two layers, which gave me the extra inch I needed to replicate the original. After measuring, cutting and marking the holes, the self-adhesive padding is pretty easy to install. Roll it into the crevices nice and tight. I then covered this with another layer, and it stuck right to it no problem. This is how I found the holes. I stuck an awl through the holes, wiggled it around a little and followed up with the retaining screws. Being I was working alone, I couldn't get the last two bottoms in yet. But all the edges you can reach in while the windshield is out of the car. Holding the large screwdriver inside and the 7/16" wrench outside, it all comes along. Installed (except the one by the accelerator pedal) But now I can start the wiring. ENGINE / DASH WIRING: Here is the kit. All I wanted to do is lay it out and get my head around the various parts and sections. I laid it out and figured what is inside the car v. what is engine side of the firewall. Now, getting all this through that small hole! Challenge #1. I did have to un-solder the "Bright Lights" bullet off the end of that socket. There was no way that thing was going through that hole. I re-soldered the bullet end back on once it made it into the cabin. So I ran the horn wire section over the top of the firewall, and hooked up the coil and the solenoid. I just don't know what solenoid connection is considered "ground" or "starter" Then to the Voltage regulator, the horn relay, high beam switch, brake light switch and the generator. After about 45 minutes, that leg of the harness was hooked up. Problem: The white wire is SO short that I had to run the harness between the VR and the HR. I don't like the look, so I may cut and elongate the white wire. I hate to have to cut a brand new harness, but there simply is not the length to run it to the outside. Close up of the VR and HR. And here is the inside with the socket back on to its wire and ready for the instrument cluster and the light switch. B E F O R E A N D A F T E R : Being this was all I had to go on regarding the proper wire routing, It looks better. But I may have trouble mounting the horn? Have a great weekend! Gary 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgreen Posted September 23, 2017 Share Posted September 23, 2017 It looks like the original wire bundle passed to the right (photo perspective) of the voltage regulator. Did the wire clips give you any hints for wire placement? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCHinson Posted September 23, 2017 Share Posted September 23, 2017 Gary, What if you took the wires from the horn relay and ran them to the right, rather than the left and feed that group of wires up between the horn relay and the voltage regulator? Would that give you enough wire to run the main harness bundle to the right of the voltage regulator? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCHinson Posted September 23, 2017 Share Posted September 23, 2017 Actually, I might have another idea... Would the wires on the new harness fit running them like this photo? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary W Posted September 23, 2017 Author Share Posted September 23, 2017 Its that white wire. The one that attaches to the top left VR post. It barely reaches right now. I think I'll elongate it today and be done with it. then I can bring the harness where it belongs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCHinson Posted September 23, 2017 Share Posted September 23, 2017 I can't tell its length from your photo, but it looks like it might reach if that white wire were to go straight to the right so that where that white wire emerges from the harness was at the top right corner of the voltage regulator. That is how it is in my photo but it is sort of hidden behind the horn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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