pont35cpe

I think it's automotive.

Don`t forget to give us an update on the before/after MPG.

Another way is to cut the shaft(hack saw)from each side to the center edge of the slug(active piece), remove end of shaft and slug then lock assembly can be pressed out. Be careful not to damage little nubbie on end of lock shaft. Cut off end will need to be welded back in place and re-bore/drill hole for slug.

Here is the type of bolt and washer for my `41 2500 series, bolt is 7/16"-20x 1 5/8"(including head). The large hinge hole is for hood movement/adjustment.

You should be able to get the lock cyl assembly out without a key, if its not froze-up. Look close at the shaft, there is a small pin to knock out, once removed, the lock assembly should pull out the front.

Sure looks like it should mount to each side of the cowel. Got any pictures of the body, where the cowel, rear of the fender/hood, and door meet.

European? Right hand drive.

Rare Parts Inc. Stockton, Ca. (800) 621-2005 I bought complete upper and lower outer kits for mt `36 from them

Also make sure the choke cam is not holding the throttle open.

I feel better now, too..

Peter, ball should be rolling free, when its low in the hole its in the start position Try this, with bearing in hole put the first piece(piston/metal, w/formed end) in the hole (long end at the bottom), then use a pencil or something to push firmly on the back of the piston, then turn the throttle valve, you should feel movement at the piston. If this works, problem is in the electrical part not the mechanical part of the switch.

Peter, the copper contacts in the switch could be the problem. It would be easier to remove the one hold down screw of each switch and swap them. I can send one if you need it. Tom

Matt, do you have 2 Uni-Sync tools or just one to set the throttle valves. Also nice headers, homemade? And is that the original weighted flapper spacer under the rear carb?

This one says `39-`47 Mopar. Ebay 264584651188

Here is one on ebay item 173482753475