rusty_apache

Thanks that’s good to know!

I cannot because it is missing.

The doors themselves are all steel. Although I glued the striker plate holes closed with toothpicks because the screw holes were quite wallowed out.

I bought this “garage find” four years ago in non running condition. It now runs reliably and drives well with new brakes, wheel cylinders/flexible hoses, spark plugs, wires rotor, cap points/condenser, NOS Tung Sol light bulbs throughout and new Excelsior blackwall tires. I have installed new windshield panes, and gaskets. We are located just East of San Antonio, Texas. I have about $10,000 in it already and am looking for $9,000 or $8,400 without the 1936 Texas Centennial license plates. rusty_apache@yahoo.com

Chevrolet sold a “cowl chassis” for commercial coach works. My 1959 short bus was very similar to this vehicle when it left the factory. I agree it’s most likely this was originally a milk truck.

I’ve used “freeze off” They should probably have named it cool off because it’s not powerful enough to create freezing conditions. It’s as good as any other penetrating oil. In the last 90 years your distributor shaft has possibly expanded slightly, in addition to dissimilar metal oxidation forming only making matters worse. keeping it soaked with penetrating oil through several warm up cycles may eventually free it up in time. Just be patient and consistent and you will eventually save it.

So as it turns out, the valve clearances were within specs but in the process of wiping down the adjusters and lifters, I discovered that the lubrication troughs were almost entirely full of sludge. I then checked the clearances cold and filled each trough with clean 30 weight. By the time that I warmed up the engine and ascertained the the clearances were still correct at temperature, the issue stopped, without even having to make any adjustments. I intend to drop the oil pan and scrape out any sludge and give it another oil change. Thanks everyone, for all the help!

Thanks, I will use the old carburetor cleaner leak detection trick. Love your heirloom coach! I also drive a 1929 Essex Challenger RS coupe.

Thanks, I’ll check it for vacuum leaks, but it’s a nice low mileage carburetor so the butterfly shaft is not sloppy.

Nope. Good call. Thanks much, It needs to be done just on principle because it probably hasn’t been done in many decades!

32,000 original miles, has strong acceleration but has an irregular misfire at idle. I use the term misfire broadly. Spitting might be a better description, not a backfire. It reaches 70 MPH easily, but once you level out with little load on the engine, it starts misfiring again. It only does this at idle and cruising at a constant speed, once you decelerate or accelerate slightly it stops. Adjusting the idle jet has little effect on the misfire. It has a new fuel tank, and a clean fuel system. I just installed new plugs and wires and cleaned the ignition points last month and today I set the float level down slightly and after almost 7 years the float bowl was still very clean inside, as well as the jets. the only other issue I have yet to address might be the hole in the original muffler.

It all depends upon the amount of wear and and the cleanliness of the engine. Also climate. I use straight 30 weight Castrol in my original stovebolt sixes. 40 weight for summer. If it’s clean and tight, with new gaskets and seals you can’t beat synthetic. Put non detergent in an abused, high mileage beater with a lot of grunge inside. You don’t want to start loosening that stuff up and clog up an oil journal. Also put a few drops of oil in the cups on the distributor and generator bushings. If the oil pad on the rotor shaft is dry use just a drop.

We are located just east of San Antonio, Tx. However I am confident and willing to deliver it anywhere in the continental United States if the seller doesn’t mind racking up the additional miles! The forum is not letting me upload more photos. it comes with the factory service manual, additional Chrysler logo keys, the original TC logo trunk key and an uncut crystal trunk key.

$5,950 It needs to have the ECU repaired and the ABS System properly bled by pressurizing the reservoir. It is running well temporarily on a Lebaron ECU. I suppose that it doesn’t know that it doesn’t have retractable headlight covers so the headlight circuit is confused. According to Joseph Lucas, a gentleman does not go about motoring after dark. The headlights worked properly with the TC ECU. I have only had the hardtop off once before I bought it in order to verify the perfect condition of the black canvas top. I put new Michelins and 2,500 miles on it since 2009. I have owned it for 10 years now and due to the loss of my parents I am selling several cars from our family collection because it is difficult to keep fresh gasoline in all of them and dormancy is death to an old car.

Thanks for posting this. I found it on the Durant forum and would really love to give it a place in the sun and put it on the road frequently. I have contacted the owner but he doesn’t know if the spare wheels are included with the car. I’m sure those optional 40 spoke rims are like hens teeth.