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Gary W

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Everything posted by Gary W

  1. My stainless trim had a few different types of clips. Running board: All stud fasteners and nuts to secure. NO "push in" type clips Hood: Screw-in stud type front clip and rear most clip. All center clips are the push in type Cowl: Both push in type, seal the holes before installing Door: ALL the push in type clips. NO stud/nut Rear quarter: Rear most clip is the stud/nut type. All the rest were the push in like the cowl section, all holes sealed before installation Running board trim ALL stud type with nuts to secure Installing the running board clips aligned with the holes in the board Front cowl and Rear quarter all used this shape clip. Seal the holes before install to keep water out of the car. I cleaned them all and used only the best ones. Rear quarter seal all holes prior to install Rear most clip is a stud inside the trunk secured with a nut. Sealed hole. Door trim and the center holes for the hood Again, choose the best ones that still have a good spring to them Then push them in. ******* A note about the stud / nut fasteners: My Buick was drilled 3/16" holes. Many of the stud/nut clips I found had 5/16" studs and could not be used so double check the hood /trunk hole sizes Gary
  2. Matt, In the same vein as the large drum, is there a way (kinda like your evaporust setup) that you can simply run a garden hose into the block, constantly feeding it with fresh cold water? I guess you can take the temperature of the water that exits to see how hot it gets, but this may help decide if the block passages are all open and flowing, if the water pump is indeed working...... Just spitballing. Gary
  3. When I did my '37 Buick, I spent incredible amounts of time restoring the original hardware. Many of the bolt heads had markings that are not replicated today. Some of the specialized bolts are not made today. For the ones I had to replace, I would use my belt sander and grind off the modern torque symbols. My routine for every nut and bolt was: Wire wheel all the rust off, using channel locks to hold the work Soak in a container of acetone to fully degrease, clean and prep for paint Use a cardboard box to lay parts out and label for assembly Prime and paint OR just use a Rustoleum paint and primer rattle can For bolts that won't hold torque, they gotta go! First the wire wheel to remove the rust from the threads, and give it a good finish. (EYE GOGGLES A MUST!) Front engine mount bolts before and after using just the wire wheel. Front Brake parts after the wire wheel and now in a tray of acetone Labeled and set up on a cardboard box Sprayed gloss black, some sprayed silver..... Organized for the build. Of course there are some nuts and bolts that were completely useless and had to be replaced. (running board hardware) I had a part of my restoration where I made a post about Nuts and Bolts. I got a lot of personal messages about it! (Just touch the arrow in the upper right hand corner)
  4. Hi Matt I had the same oil pressure issue as you.... should have sent it out from the beginning... whatever. I bought a nice one from Dave Tachney and sent it right out to EGGE in California for the rebuild. They did a great job and pretty quick turnaround. When it returned, I installed it and sent the original one right out to EGGE so I now have a second rebuilt unit ready to go if needed. The other thing I did with my car is I drilled two holes in the thermostat housing so coolant slowly flows until the engine warms up to fully open the thermostat. For what it's worth. Good luck with everything. Gary
  5. Hi Rob! That '37 hood needs some guys at the corners to safely remove and install with minimal paint damage. It's heavy and unwieldy. Your center hinge should have a hold down bolt inside the car behind your radio (if you have one) up under the cowl, and a second hold down up front at the radiator area. When in position and the handle locked, the hood should grab in three places: Cowl, Up front and center right under the handle. My car did not have the front ones and it made it difficult to align until I found a set. Unfortunately, the '37 hood panels do slide fore and aft and you have to watch and carefully open them. I also got a small ding on my new paint not realizing those huge hood panels slide so easily down that center hinge. I was told that Buick corrected this on the '38 models with a small metal stopper at the cowl, but the '37's do not have this. Here's a photo of a 1938 sent to me, showing the metal part at the cowl to stop the hood from sliding back and banging into the cowl section: My blog has a lot of hood information starting on page 24 and it continues on. This issue was addressed. The other big hood issue is the front alignment to the front clip and the adjustments made to line it all up right. Here's some hood information from my site. It starts before this though: (Touch the arrow on the upper right) Good luck! If I can help with anything, don't hesitate! Gary
  6. Here is the link to the discussions regarding the headlight switch and the multi beam system. When I stepped on the dimmer, the drivers headlamp went out completely, instead of going to a "low beam" or a "cross beam" situation. I finally found a good restored headlight switch, but have not installed it yet. Being I never drive at night, it hasn't been an issue so far, but its on my rainy day list. Bloo is correct that one of the internal "triangles" is shaped differently and if they are not in the correct places and orientations the system doesn't operate as designed. Good Luck with it! Gary
  7. Sorry for any confusion... I edited my original post so the proper downshift technique is up top. But the "goose" between gears makes the downshift effortless.
  8. Here's my '37. if you need more, just ask. I have a tons Gary
  9. Whenever I downshift from 3rd to 2nd (whether a non-synchro Model "A" or my Buick), I've found that slightly "goosing" the accelerator between gears really helps the downshift slide easier. The quick increase in engine RPM's seems to help the gears mesh much easier. Clutch in, slide gearshift out of third, release clutch, quick "goose" the accelerator, clutch in, slide up into second, on your way I have a hill by my house and this is a daily event so I have mastered this maneuver. Maybe it'll help to try it. Gary *** Edited the technique. Yes, "goose" it with the clutch released to match the gear RPM's, then depress the clutch and downshift into second. ***
  10. Thrilled to see her back on the forum! Cannot wait to hear her purr to life after the long "roller coaster" ride that these restorations take us on. I've been following every step of the way, and now you are just a couple quadrants from home. Beautiful job, one of the finest "non trailer-queens" I've ever seen. Be proud of your accomplishment and the amazing history of this fine automobile. Well Done! Gary
  11. When I removed the freeze plugs, I found a lot of rust buildup in the block. I wheeled the block out onto the driveway and hit it with my power washer from every angle... reverse, into every freeze plug, into the outlets, out of the inlets.... until she ran clean. * I had my radiator professionally re-cored * I run 50/50 Prestone with one bottle of NO-ROSION * I run with a 180 thermostat. To date, have put 2000 miles on her, and she has never gone even a whisper over the 180 mark, and plenty of heat for those cold January mornings. I am very happy that I took the time to blast it all clean. I did not know of the thermal process, or I would have sent the block for that treatment. Plugs out. No explanation needed You can see the river of rust pouring out the from the interior. Blast away until she ran clean! After power washing and blowing compressed air, the results speak for themselves. Gary
  12. On my '37 Special, I swapped the original Marvel for an NOS Carter 608S. It involved making all new connections for fuel lines, throttle linkages, heat source for the automatic choke... Here is the whole write up from the beginning of the swap. Maybe something in my description will help you. (** I have recently come across the original firewall to carburetor linkage so I will be removing the "Z" shaped linkage I made and fitting the correct, original part soon.) Heres the sequence:
  13. Good morning and good luck with your Buick! I'm sure Sean will chime in here with all the specs of you data tag, but for starters: 1937 Model 41: Buick Special 4-door Trunkback Sedan (Usually there would be a "41" stamped on the plate after "1937 MOD"__________ Style No: (Fisher Body Style #): 37-4419: 37: 1937 Model Year 4: Buick 4: Series 40 "Special" 19: 4-door Trunkback Sedan Trim: 301: Taupe Mohair Fabric. (Available on models 41, 44, 46, 46S, 47 & 48) Paint 500: Imperial Black (solid... not metallic) According to my records, the Model 37-41 represented 40% of Buick production that year, with 85,195 produced. It was by far the most popular model sold.
  14. That is correct. I sent my unit out to be professionally rebuilt, and simply installed it when it came back from the shop "as is". I assumed the unit was checked for proper OHMS range, and I also figured there must be a float arm configuration so the float didn't bottom out. I ran out of gas at just under 1/4 tank showing on the dash. My float was hitting the bottom of the tank , preventing the arm from dropping fully, BUT even on the bench when the arm was allowed to fully drop it never came near 0 OHMS. Luckily, I was able to remove some of the material on the "stop", which allowed the arm to drop a little more, and gave me a reading of .6 OHMS. BUT... The float was still bottoming out in the tank, so I had to bend the float arm, and by trial and error, achieve the tank bottom clearance. I guess my "fix" was unconventional, but it works as it should.
  15. You've come to the right place! Bunch of smart guys here who are more than helpful and are willing to share. I restored a 1937 Model 48 four years ago, and this site was my saving grace. Throw a question out there, attach a photo or two (or a lot..... we like photos!), and the replies will start coming in. Good Luck with your Buick! Beautiful, roadworthy automobiles! Gary Wheeler NJ
  16. I'm a firm believer in good grounds and I ran several dedicated ground wires to lights, to the accessory electric priming fuel pump, and the fuel sending unit. From my battery, I ran two ground cables: one to the frame to create a "ground hub", and the second ground cable up to the engine. This is my schematic tracing my battery cables, the master "kill switch" and the frame "ground hub". In the car, this is what it looks like. I have two ground cables (2/0) running off the negative pole. The one goes up front to the engine, the second grounds to the frame and this is where I attach my dedicated grounds if needed. This picture shows the "hub" with my electric fuel pump and my fuel sender wire attached. The fuel sender ground wire attaches directly to the flange mounting screw. I routed it down the frame rail and I left plenty of slack so I can drop the tank without any problems. Gary
  17. I don't know if you saw my post a couple posts up the chain here, but I just went through this with my 37 Buick. Try to read through the posts starting with "running out of gas". Bloo basically walked me through the entire diagnostic procedure and then I detailed how I dropped the tank and removed the sender. By grinding a little off my sender AND bending the arm a bit, it now reads accurately and doesn't bottom out inside the tank. Maybe you'll pick up a hint here or there to make the job a little easier.
  18. I just went through this very same thing on my '37. If you follow along from "I ran out of gas" to the next few posts detailing how the problem was diagnosed and fixed I think it'll help you out. I received great advice from many of the same people (Bloo) giving you input. They know their stuff. Here's the link starting when I ran out of gas and it continues on from there: Here's the posts detailing tank removal and diagnosis and repair of the sender in the tank:
  19. The steering wheel restoration was done by J.B. Donaldson out in Phoenix, AZ. I worked with a gentleman named Jim. They're "car people" and they know their craft. I was very pleased with the result. For reference, it's on page 7 of my blog: As always, thanks for following and all the continued support. Love this place! Gary
  20. Sunday, May 2, 2021: "With This Ring........" A Wedding Story Today I had the honor of participating in a beautiful wedding ceremony with my Buick. It turned out to be a beautiful day, and the Buick performed flawlessly. Oh, the newlyweds looked really nice too! I won't take a lot of time, but I do want to share a few photos. It was so nice to get back into a public space, with people, laughing, dancing..... starting to regain a little normalcy to our lives. Here's the backstory: I purchased the Buick from the estate of Mr. Harry Yeager. Harry and I were friends through our local Vintage Automobile Club of Ocean County. Harry's daughter, Jen, is a hygienist in my office and has been working with me for 24 years. 30 years ago, Jen was married in the Buick. Her dad, Harry, drove her to the venue. TODAY, Jen's daughter was married in the Buick. She was so looking forward to being driven in her grandfather's car, and so I was honored to make that happen! Here are a few photos: The Buick just turned 2000 miles on Sunday, April 25, 2021. I followed the "2,000 mile maintenance" schedule and topped off the master cylinder, changed the oil, changed the transmission oil, drained and filled the radiator, filled the tank and generally went through the chassis and gave the bolts little "snug". Here I am on Wednesday, April 28, 2021 beginning what would turn out to be about 30 hours detailing the car to get it all shined up! I cleaned everything out from under the fenders, under the running boards, the engine and flywheel pans. Then started on the white walls, the chrome, .... The windows, all the grille bars, and then that black paint, starting from the roof and working down. When all the detailing was done inside and out, I applied this sticker-decal to the glass. Sunday, May 2, 2021: Wedding Day! The day started with a downpour! By 10:00 it stopped raining and the streets began to dry. I was dreading getting caught in a storm, but the weather angels smiled, and it was good the rest of the day! Here I am at noon, ready to play my role as the chauffeur. I live in Wall Township, NJ. The wedding was held in Hamilton, NJ. I basically mapped out a route using all back roads and county roads that paralleled 195. So, for those of you not from Jersey, I had to traverse the entire state from east to west. Hamilton is about 4 miles from Pennsylvania. It was just about 42 miles each way. This photo is one of the many back roads I travelled. Most of the trip looked like this. Not what you think of when you think of Jersey, but we really do have some beautiful areas. Honestly, I was stressed on the way out. It was so important to the bride to be there, and I was just praying for a safe, trouble free trip. The Buick delivered. Arrived at the Hamilton Manor right on time, and they took hundreds of photos with the car. Here, the Bride is in the front seat, getting ready for the "first look"..... the first time the groom sees her all dolled up. I think that is something kinda new at these weddings now. When I got married, my "first look" was when she was walking up the aisle. She was a stunning bride, and they've dated since High School. All in all, a very fun and exciting day! I was so happy to be able to come through for her. Last one! They finished all their photos and I was back on the road, crossing the state, with a lot less anxiety. I actually enjoyed the ride very much! Then, back to the wedding to attend as a guest! Very busy day, but all-in-all, very satisfying. I hope you all are staying safe and healthy out there! Have a great night. Gary
  21. Here's the link to my '37 master cylinder rebuild: (Just touch the arrow in the upper right corner)
  22. Here are the links to the pages that deal with the springs: REMOVAL: (JUST TOUCH THE ARROW IN THE UPPER RIGHT CORNER) INSTALLATION: And this final one was just dealing with the right rear shackle bolt that sheared off upon removal, but sometime you'll see a photo that will help you:
  23. When I did my '37, I had the same problem with petrified grease in the shackle bolt preventing any new grease from entering. I replaced my rear leaf springs with new ones from Eaton so they were off the car, but I drilled out the petrified grease from the bolt Installed a grease fitting Pumped and pumped until all the old grease ran out and the new red grease came through. I'll link to the spring section of my restoration.. maybe it'll help if you decide to remove the springs. Gary
  24. Here are a few photos of my '37 pedals and the springs: Gary
  25. When I removed the listing wires from the original headliner, I used a Dremel and made small hash marks at the end of each wire to be sure they went back in the same position. The 1937 Fisher Body Service Manual states " The paper wrapped piano wires running through the headlining listings are of different lengths. If removed for any reason see that each one is replaced in its proper position." If you have all seven just loose, you may have to fit each one at a time by trial and error to get the best fit in each position. Then label them. As far as attachment to the car: Listing wires Nos. 1, 2 and 3 (from the front) are clinched to the roof bows Listing wires Nos. 4, 5, 6, & 7 are clinched to the rear headlining supports and the ends of each wire are inserted in holes in the top of the rear quarter trim stick support. Here is page 59 from the Fisher Body Service Manual. The lower left column is all the information I could find regarding the headliner and the listing wires, but it does make sense once you get in the car and start the installation. Here is the link to my headliner installation: (Just touch the arrow in the upper right corner) I hope it helps. I have tons of photos, please let me know if you need more. Gary
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