Gary W

I have a ‘37. Ended up replacing both rear leaf springs. New set from Eaton and they are great. Be sure you torque them to spec when installed and check again after a couple hundred miles. Once all my suspension parts were restored/replaced, I think the best thing I did was to take the car to the “Front End Shop“ in Farmingdale for a four-wheel alignment. Amazing how beautifully she runs after that. Here’s how I bought the car. The rear leaf is cracked and protruding though the gaiter. search my restoration for “springtime”. The whole process is documented... just touch the arrow! gary

My Buick rear tire rubbed just like yours. I replaced both rear springs and had the shocks rebuilt to solve it.

The power wash won’t hurt the block and is very effective at removing all the rust, scale…. My engine was out on the driveway when I pressure washed it but I sent my radiator out for a re-core.

From my '37 manual: The timing chain has marks that are exactly 10 LINKS apart. These must align with the marks on the gears. The book on the left, my actual engine on the right displaying the proper alignment of the timing chain.

I've used these "Yor-Lok" tube fittings very successfully. Maybe you can research your fittings and thread and find one that will work?

The Buick manual says you can expect a 2-degree change in the cam dwell angle when using new points. The manual specifies .002 to .007 end play of the shaft.

Here's an old ad from 1935... "Standup" bumper jack

Our deepest condolences to you and the entire Wiegand family. Sending prayers for solace at this heartbreaking time. The Wheeler's

John was a class act. Always friendly, down to earth and truly a gentleman in every sense of the word. For those of us lucky enough to live here in Monmouth County, NJ, a trip to John's "Backdoor Garage" was the thrill of the year. I say garage. This place put many museums to shame! On top of the awesome cars, the amazing decor and the over-the-top hospitality from John and Jill, it was a "never-miss" trip! I took my sons to see the cars a couple years ago. Allow me to share some photos. You'll see in an instant why we looked forward to our yearly visit! John... The ultimate host! In his garage hosting our local club. The wall decor was like an old street. Club members checking out all the cars "Abraham"...... His Lincoln. They all had great names! His Duesy. Stunning Here is the Duesenberg at a local fund raising event held on the grounds of another club member. The car had a crowd all day. No words needed. My deepest condolences to the family. John will be sorely missed. Gary

Much easier on the bench! Here is my step-by-step distributor restoration. Maybe it can help as you check each part is working correctly.

I installed an accessory electric pump to prime the carburetor when the car sat for more than six days. I now push the button under the dash for about 30 seconds to fill the carburetor bowl and she fires right off. The original fuel pump works fine the rest of time and it draws fuel through the electric pump just fine. No issues at all. Here's how I installed the inline fuel pump. As I stated, I use it only to fill the carburetor prior to starting, so I installed a momentary push button under the dash. Step-by-Step install:

When I did my '37, I sent all my gauges out to Bob's. Very nice workmanship.

I just went out in the garage and snapped this photo with my iPhone: The manifolds have been on the car for over six years now, I'm quickly approaching 3,000 miles on the car and so far no issues at all. You can still see the small bead of the high temp gasket maker around the exhaust ports and the gasket still has its shiny copper look. So far so good!

Hi Dave! I went back and found the photos: First I sat the gland rings in the intake ports of the manifold to be sure they fit without binding. Once tapped in, I measured the amount of metal proud of the casting and the gap. I just didn't want any surprises when I installed the manifold. Then over to the block, I installed all four gland rings, and remeasured gaps and the height of each ring. Everything was good here. I did not want the height of the ring to prevent proper manifold seating. I used this on the exhaust ports only. First a light smear around the ports on the block.... Then I sat the gasket over the studs, over the gland rings and the gasket maker tacked it into position. Again, a smear around the exhaust ports of the manifold assembly. Heave it up and bolt it in position. Hope the photos help! Have a great day! Gary

I installed a 6V electric pump to simply prime the carburetor after the car ('37 Buick) has sat for about a week. The fuel in the bowl would evaporate, so instead of running the starter motor over and over to prime, now the electric pump, installed inline, does the job in about 30 seconds. Here is the entire write up:

I had a nice ring gear story also! When I restored my '37, it was obvious the vacuum start switch was malfunctioning and allowing the starter to "try" to engage while the previous owner was driving. This constant activation of the solenoid caused irreparable damage to my ring gear, where a "flip" was out of the question. I did get a new gear from Bob's at the time and the install was pretty straight forward: My ring gear after constant attack by the solenoid and starter. This close-up of the teeth show irreparable damage. No flip here. So I got a new gear and made the replacement. I evenly applied heat all around the gear to allow a slight expansion. Using a heavy brass drift I began punching down little by little Here you can see the ring beginning to let loose and drop. Almost completely off now, a few more taps and she dropped free from the flywheel. After cleaning everything up, especially the shoulder on the flywheel, I placed the ring on the grill to heat it, and left the flywheel out in the February cold. The heat expansion was just enough to allow an easy slip on and when it all cooled and contracted, she was home. If you zoom in, you can see the bevels in the gear teeth to allow the starter gear to engage. You will have to create some kind of bevel on this side to allow easy engagement. This was the first time I ever did this and it went very smoothly. I have completely restored the car, so everything now works as it should. Getting close to 3,000 miles, and when they are all sorted out and adjusted properly it all works as intended. I would really try to find a good replacement ring gear unless like Larry said earlier you have a shop that can create the bevel on each tooth. Gary

I installed using gland rings in all the intake ports and an orange Hi Temp sealant around the exhaust ports. Both sides of the copper gasket.

Carter WCD 2-Barrel Carburetor Rebuild / Service Procedure: A Step - By - Step photo essay PART THREE: REASSEMBLY (continued...the last step!) 16. Install the Throttle Connector Rod and the Fast Idle Connector Rod: These are the final parts to complete the carburetor rebuild. Note: The small round part way out on the left is what's left of the original throttle connector rod washer, spring and retainer. The brass part in the middle is Part No. 172-22 "Throttle connector rod retainer". Easier replacement if your original is rusted or ruined. Install the Throttle Control Rod: 16A. Insert the upper end of the throttle connector rod into the hole in the pump operating lever. 16B. Insert the lower end of the throttle connector rod into the hole in the throttle shaft arm. 16C. Slide the countershaft pin spring into the groove to secure the upper end of the throttle connector rod to the pump operating lever. 16D. The lower end of the throttle connector rod is secured using the throttle control rod washer, spring and retainer. (Or use part No. 172-22 throttle connector rod retainer) 16E. Push in the retainer to compress the spring and turn it 90 degrees to secure it. Install the Fast Idle Connector Rod: 16F. Rotate the upper end of the fast idle connector rod to line up the upset in the rod with the elongated hole in the choke lever. 16G. Insert the fast idle connector rod into the hole in the choke lever and rotate down to secure the upper end. 16H. Insert the lower end of the fast idle connector rod into the hole in the fast idle cam trip lever. 16I. Secure the lower end of the fast idle connector rod with a pin spring. You are finished with the reassembly of the Carter WCD. (Notice I did move the brass data tag out of the way of the fast idle connector rod.) I made the preliminary adjustments all according to the Carter sheet. I'll post them in a few days. Gary

Carter WCD 2-Barrel Carburetor Rebuild / Service Procedure: A Step - By - Step photo essay PART THREE: REASSEMBLY (continued...) 15. Rebuild the Air Horn Assembly. Starting in the familiar way of grouping all the air horn parts together for assembly. Again, all channels, passageways, cylinders... are blown out clean. The Air Horn casting is clean and ready for rebuilding. 15A. Install the choke piston lever, link and shaft assembly. That's the actual part name. I'll refer to it as the choke shaft. 15B. When the choke shaft is seated, begin lining up the choke piston with its operating cylinder. 15C. Once aligned, push down on the choke piston while rotating the choke shaft to seat the choke piston in its operating cylinder. 15D. Align the choke valve holes with the holes in the choke shaft. 15E. Attach the choke valve with two choke valve attaching screws. You should have a nice easy action here now. The piston MUST move freely in its cylinder. It's the vacuum pulling on that piston that opens your choke plate. NOT the thermostatic coil unit. 15F. Install the coil housing baffle plate. 15G. Install the coil housing gasket. 15H. Install the thermostatic coil and housing assembly. Note: You first install with indicator marks at the bottom...... 15I. Then rotate the housing clockwise to set the index marks according to your carburetor's spec sheet. Operational Note: The enclosed bimetallic coil functions to CLOSE the choke. Vacuum acting on the choke piston OPENS the choke. As the coil heats up, it relaxes and allows the piston to open the choke plate. As the coil cools down, it rotates to close the choke plate. Basically, you need to rotate the housing so the choke plate just touches closed at 65 -70 degrees. 15J. From the Carter service manual. 15K. Having set it so the choke plate just touches closed, secure the thermostatic coil and housing assembly with three coil housing attaching screws and three coil housing retainers. 15L. Install the choke lever clamp screw and choke lever clamp nut onto the choke lever. This is now called the choke lever and screw assembly. 15M. Install the choke lever and screw assembly onto the choke shaft. Don't over tighten it yet, it will need adjustment. 15N. Secure the finished air horn to the bowl lid with four air horn attaching screws and lock washers. (Side note: That brass data tag will not stay there! It interferes with the fast idle connector rod. I moved it to a rear screw) The Air Horn is completed and attached. next post will finish up the job installing the rods.

Carter WCD 2-Barrel Carburetor Rebuild / Service Procedure: A Step - By - Step photo essay PART THREE: REASSEMBLY (continued...) 14. Rebuild the Bowl Cover Assembly. (Part 2) The next few steps will be installing and adjusting these parts. 14AA. Insert the bowl cover strainer into the strainer nut and gasket assembly. Tighten with a 3/4" wrench. 14BB. Install the needle seat with a needle seat gasket using a flat blade screwdriver. 14CC. Hang the needle valve from the float and slowly lower the needle valve into the needle valve seat. 14DD. Install the float lever hinge pin to temporarily install the float so you can make float level adjustments before the bowl lid gasket is installed. 14EE. Install the fuel line fitting. 14FF. FLOAT LEVEL ADJUSTMENTS. There are two float adjustments: Lateral and Vertical. For both adjustments, you invert the bowl cover with NO GASKET and check that the float lip is resting against the seated needle. Basically, you need to be sure both pontoons measure 3/16" from the center solder seam of the floats (top of the float) to the machined edge of the bare metal casting on both sides. This ensures the float sits LEVEL (lateral adjustment) and at the correct HEIGHT (Vertical Adjustment). There is a proper float height adjustment tool for this. I just measured with a ruler. Any discrepancies are adjusted by gently bending the arms. The 3/16" is for the 608S and 608SA and maybe other carburetors, your model may differ. 14GG. Time to place the new bowl cover gasket. Note the notch lines up with the positive in the pump cylinder. 14HH. Slide out the float lever pin and remove the float and needle. *** Careful not to upset your lateral and vertical adjustments. 14II. Place the new bowl cover gasket, aligning all ports and checking all orifices are open and not covered by the gasket. 14JJ. Again, hang the needle from the float and lever assembly and guide it into the needle seat. 14KK. Align the hinge holes and insert the float lever pin. 14LL. Turn the cover right side up. Attach the vacumeter piston to the vacumeter piston link by turning it 90 degrees. 14MM. The vacumeter spring fits up inside the vacumeter piston. Drop the spring into the bowl (again!) and watch carefully as you lower the lid down onto the bowl. 14NN. Slide the bowl cover down onto the body, being careful that the vacumeter spring aligns up into the vacumeter piston. Just watch all around that you are not bending your jets, the floats are setting in right.... everything is coming together. 14OO. Secure the bowl cover to the body with six bowl cover attaching screws and lock washers. *** Install the starter switch cable clip to the screw directly above the starter switch. *** Install the brass Carter "608S" data tag under one of the rear screws. Time to install the metering rods. Part No. 75-459 is standard. 75-488 is lean, 75-489 is for high altitude only. 14PP. Last few parts to complete the lid. I used the metering rod itself to gently pull the vacumeter spring away just enough to slide the metering rod through. 14QQ. Same for the other metering rod. Slide it through the spring, the casting and down into the metering rod jets down below. 14RR. Check the action here of all the pump parts. Everything moves freely. 14SS. Install the dust cover using two dust cover attaching screws and lock washers. The Bowl Cover Assembly is complete. Next post will reassemble the Air Horn/Choke....

Carter WCD 2-Barrel Carburetor Rebuild / Service Procedure: A Step - By - Step photo essay PART THREE: REASSEMBLY (continued...) 14. Rebuild the Bowl Cover Assembly. (Part 1) The Bowl Cover parts laid out. There are a lot of parts attached to the Bowl Cover so this part is a little long. The Bowl Cover is cleaned, all orifices are blown out, wired out and cleaned completely. 14A. Drop in the small pump intake ball. 14B. Tightly install the intake ball check retainer. It's a press fit so be sure it is secured firmly in position. I carried it into position on the tip of a magnetized screwdriver and then using a fine punch I was able to secure the edges in place. 14C. Drop in the lower pump spring. 14D. Install the pump plunger assembly (pump plunger, rod, spring and spring retainer) that you previously restored. 14E. Install the pump plunger guide. Line up the positive on the guide with the detent in the lid casting. 14F. Install the pump guide retaining screw. 14G. Install both low speed jet assemblies. I started them by hand, and finished using a 1/4" spinner. NO gasket used here. 14H. Install the metering rod spring onto the vacumeter piston link. 14I. Feed one leg through the center hole to get it in proper position. 14J. Slide the vacumeter piston link into position through the elongated hole in the lid casting. NOTE: the "lip" bends up to the rear. 14K. Orient the metering rod arm in its proper position. 14L. Start running the pump operating lever and countershaft assembly into position. 14M. Line up the flat side of the metering rod arm with the flat surface of the countershaft and slide it through. 14N. Finish sliding the countershaft through the boss and install the large pin spring to secure the shaft. 14O. Install the metering rod arm clamp screw just lightly for now. This screw will hold the left - right position of the arm on the shaft. 14P. Install the pump connector link from the metering rod arm to the pump plunger rod. 14Q. Secure the pump connector link with a pin spring at the top end. 14R. Here, I pumped the countershaft a few times to align the metering rod arm with the "lip" on the vacumeter piston link. 14S. Secure the metering rod arm tightly to the countershaft with the metering rod arm clamp screw. 14T. Install the pump check needle. Blunt end goes in first. 14U. Install the pump discharge check plug carefully with a flat blade screwdriver. No gasket used here. 14V. Install the pump discharge passage plug with the pump discharge passage plug gasket. 14W. Install the pump strainer. It's a press fit. 14X. Get the new air horn gasket and the pump jet and housing assembly ready. 14Y. Install a new air horn gasket. 14Z. Install the pump jet and housing assembly with two pump jet attaching screws and lock washers. Next post will complete the bowl lid assembly.....................

Carter WCD 2-Barrel Carburetor Rebuild / Service Procedure: A Step - By - Step photo essay PART THREE: REASSEMBLY (continued...) 13. Rebuild the Body (Bowl) All the bowl parts needed for reassembly. Again, all ports and channels were blown out clean just prior to reassembly. 13A. Install the fuel level sight plug. No gasket used here. 13B. Install the single rivet plug between the two nozzle passage ports. I had to steal one from a donor carb and kinda messed it up removing it so I used a rivet former to create a nice dome. 13C. Install the two nozzle passage rivet plugs. 13D. Drop in the vacumeter piston spring. It will keep falling out as you flip the body over, but this is the place for it. 13E. Install the two metering rod jet and gasket assemblies with a flat blade screwdriver. 13F. The Carter metering rod jet assembly are marked 120-65S. It's the part number. 13G. Install a new body flange gasket, lining it up with the ports in the body casting. The gasket is from Jon's rebuild kit. (You can see the vacumeter spring fell out when I turned it over) The bowl assembly is now complete. 13H. Begin lowering the restored body flange assembly down onto the bowl assembly. (The Carter gasket is seen here just because the lighter color photographed better) 13I. Attach the body flange assembly to the body using four body flange attaching screws and lock washers. 13J. Set it upright on the flange and drop the vacumeter piston spring back into its cylinder. The lower two parts of the carburetor are finished. Next: reassemble the bowl lid.

Carter WCD 2-Barrel Carburetor Rebuild / Service Procedure: A Step - By - Step photo essay PART THREE: REASSEMBLY 12. Reassemble the Body Flange: I organized all the parts into the four main components. This represents all the parts that make up the Body Flange. 12A. All orifices are blown out with compressed air, cans of carburetor cleaner, fine wire, welding tip cleaners, pipe cleaners. The idea is to be sure every port is clear and clean. Start by rebuilding the renovated throttle shaft to create a finished throttle shaft assembly: 12B. Slide on the throttle shaft dog and collar. 12C. Install the throttle flex spring. 12D. Install the throttle lever adjustment screw ("flat" end screw). Keep it loose for now..... not hitting the stop. 12E. Install the fast idle adjustment screw ("pointed" end screw). Keep it loose for now. 12F. Install the throttle centering screw. (608S only) I looked down the throttle bore to be sure it was oriented properly. 12G. Slide the entire rebuilt throttle shaft assembly back into position in the body flange. 12H. Install the throttle shaft arm over the end of the throttle shaft. A small socket helped seat it level and flush. 12I. After installing the throttle shaft washer, I chased the threads with a 10-32 tap. They got a little boogered up. 12J. Attach the throttle shaft arm and throttle shaft washer with the throttle shaft arm attaching screw. 12K. Build up the fast idle cam with the cam trip lever, fast idle cam assembly and fast idle cam attaching screw. 12L. Install the fast idle cam assembly using the fast idle cam attaching screw. Note the position of the small spring. 12M. Install the throttle valves. Back out the idle and fast idle adjustment screws so the throttle valves fully close. 12N. Align the throttle valves so the (c) symbol is toward the idle port when viewed from the bottom (manifold side). I used a dot of thread locker on the tips of the throttle valve screws. 12O. Just start the throttle valve screws. Fully close the valves and tap the valves to achieve full seating before tightening. The photo on the right is looking up from the manifold side and you can see the (c) toward the idle port. 12P. Install the idle port rivet plugs. (Copper plugs) 12Q. Install the idle adjustment screws and springs according to your carburetor's specific adjustment. 12R. Turn the idle screws in to just seat. Don't force them or you will distort the tip. My instruction sheet says to back them out 1/2 turn for initial setting. I'll fine tune it on the car using a vacuum gauge. 12S. Install the vacuum fitting. 7/16" wrench. The last steps to finishing the flange are the installation of the Carter carstarter starter switch assembly. These are the parts all cleaned up and laid out in the order they are installed. 12T. Install the switch strainer and the switch strainer retainer ring. 12U. Drop in the steel switch ball. It rests in a groove milled into the throttle shaft. 12V. Insert the metal switch plunger. Be sure the open end faces up. 12W. Insert the Bakelite switch guide block assembly into the switch plunger. (*The Bakelite switch guide block assembly is made up of two or three switch contact spring shims, the "W" shaped switch contact spring and the switch return spring washer.) Here are the next few parts to go in. 12X. Install the switch return spring onto the washer atop the "W"-shaped switch contact spring. 12Y. Install the Bakelite switch terminal cap, using the terminal cap hold down clip and attaching screw. 12Z. Install both terminal lock washers and switch terminal screws. The Carter carstarter starter switch is now fully assembled. Operational Note: The Bakelite switch guide block (3) contains two or more square brass switch contact shims (4) for adjusting the degree of throttle opening at which switch contact is made. (30 to 45 degrees of throttle opening.) The switch guide block (3) also contains the "W"-shaped switch contact spring (5) and the switch return spring washer that the switch return spring (6) seats against. When starting, (throttle is opened via the accelerator pedal AND the engine is stopped) the throttle shaft rotates, forcing the steel switch ball (1) against the switch plunger (2) which moves the Bakelite switch guide block assembly (3,4,5) upward into the Bakelite switch terminal cap (7). At the proper throttle shaft angle, the switch contact spring (5) makes electrical contact between the two brass inserts molded inside the Bakelite switch terminal cap (7). This is the switch in the solenoid circuit that operates the starter motor. Once the motor starts, manifold vacuum pulls the switch ball (1) up and away from the throttle shaft and switch plunger (2) allowing the switch return spring (6) to force everything downward, breaking the electrical contact. As long as the engine is running, vacuum will keep the switch ball (1) in its seat allowing the throttle shaft to freely rotate without initiating the chain of events that causes the switch to make contact. When the engine is stopped, manifold vacuum is gone and the switch ball (1) will drop down into its starting position again. The Body Flange / Starter Switch Assembly is complete. next post assemble the Bowl and attach it to the completed flange.