Gary W

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Everything posted by Gary W

  1. Gary W

    Radio Question

    Hi Steve I don't know if the '41 radio is different than the '37 as far as mounting procedure but my '37 has a heavy support bracket that bolts up under the cowl using the rear hood hold-down bolt. Once that is in, there is a serrated lower section that supports the rear of the radio. The serrations allow you to raise or lower the radio so the face is nice and flush with your dash before you install the front knob bolts. This is the upper part that bolts under the cowl. The rear hood hold-down bolt fits in that slot. The lower support arm swings to accommodate the radio and allows you to align it to your dash. Bolted up top to the rear hood hold-down bolt. The serrated part is where the radio bolts. Hope it helps! Gary
  2. Ted; Very impressive and smart work! Your meticulous attention to every little detail is simply superb! This will be a gorgeous automobile when done. Love watching this Olds come together. Well done! Gary
  3. Gary W

    1925 Buick Standard Barn Raising

    There's nothing better than getting a bunch of your buddies together to get these larger tasks done. The day I dropped the body felt like the "turning point" in the restoration. Even after all the engine work and rebuilding the chassis, somehow that body being reunited to the frame was a major milestone and I felt like I made it "over the peak" and was on the down slope. Huge sigh of relief! Thanks for the photos! This automobile will be a stunner! Beautiful work! Gary
  4. 1937 Buick Model "48" (Two-Door "trunkback" Sedan) A Step - By - Step "Frame - Off" Restoration Thread Wednesday January 11, 2017: Today is the day the restoration starts. The Holidays are over, the tree cleaned up and my buddy Mike has graciously offered his vacant garage to store my Model "A" Fords for three months. This allows the Buick to take most of the garage, and puts me on an aggressive timeline so I'm not paying for monthly storage. So, with the Fords out of the garage, I parked the Buick perpendicular and began the assessment and started work. The Assessment: Here she sits all ready for restoration. Although the photo looks like the car is in great shape, I will post some photos of the issues I face: 1. PAINT All four fenders have chipping, cracking and "alligator" paint. Cowl paint is down to metal Trunk lid and rear deck is also worn down to the bare metal and flaking off. The roof paint is badly worn, and there is rust under the window rubber trim. 2. Mechanical Issues: All the body mounts, transmission mount and all four motor mounts are hopelessly dry-rotted and petrified. Every inch of wiring from the headlamps right on through the dash to the tail lamps is brittle, crumbling and exposed. Left rear leaf spring is cracked and the main leaf is protruding through the tin spring covers. 3. Interior / Upholstery Issues: Steering wheel rim is cracked all around, the plating is worn off. There is a distinct "clunk" and a heavy spot in the steering gearbox that needs to be addressed. The rug is worn out and rotted from water leaking in through the cowl gutter. The wood grain is sprouting rust blossoms. The upholstery is torn, stained and completely inhabited by mice. The smell is overwhelming. The headliner is also stained from mice living inside it. So today, Wednesday January 11, 2017 the restoration begins: After the car was situated, I started the restoration by removing the license plates and the Trippe Lamps. (They were strictly ornamental...never wired) Then the bumpers were removed by removing the medallions and the outer bumper bolts I had to use tons of PB Blaster to loosen all the rust and a breaker bar to get the nut to give up! Front bumpers off, then under the fenders to remove the bumper support irons from the chassis. Once the irons are removed, you can see some more of the chassis. I photograph everything as I go to make the build go easier. End of the day. Front and rear bumpers removed. I keep a notebook running with every part removed, bag and tag all fasteners and mark parts for location for easier reassembly. January 13, 2017: It took four of us to lift the hood off the car after removing the nut under the dash and the forward nut above the radiator. Then removed all the radiator and hood support irons Then off came the headlamps Next I removed the running boards entirely by removing the bolts that affix the support irons to the frame and the boards dropped right off into my head. Saturday January 14, 2017: I got a few hours in the garage today and got the front disassembled. I removed the fender lamps, the Front fenders, the lower radiator shield (or wind deflector), the grille halves, the front clip and the horns. I'm taking stock of parts that need rebuilding or replacing. I carefully labelled and photographed every step of the way. All nuts, bolts, washers are tagged and bagged in ziplock bags. I think I may have to replace some of the 80-year old bolts, as they are quite rusty and brittle. Here's the end result of today's work:
  5. Gary W

    1938 66S Radiator Drain

    Mine all open to the left, close to the right. "counter clockwise" I think there is an internal left hand thread that opens the valve.
  6. Hello Jon!! Thank you for your advice, always appreciated! I didn't want to bother you until I checked in here to determine if this "hot soak" was something other Buick owners have experienced. I'm pretty sure after reading others comments that the leak up at the countershaft is just as you say..... lubrication running out. I will try the lower octane fuel at my next fill up. I always figured the higher octane fuel MUST be better, so I put it in every vehicle I own. Never gave it a second thought. I have not used any kind of additive in the Buick like Larry mentioned above. (Marvel's, Diesel, ATF, Startron). Maybe they have merit? Do they reduce the "high octane effect" or maybe better said, raise the boiling point of the high test fuels? Do they help with vapor lock and this "Hot Soak" phenomena? Just spitballing here. (** I DO add about one cup of ATF to every 10 gallons of gasoline in my Model "A" Fords. I was told it helps lubricate the valves. Been doing it for over 25 years. The "L-Head" seems to like it. But I run the Buick clean.) * Tighten up the carburetor mounting nuts * Change the fuel to an 87 octane * Advance the timing a few degrees * Additives??? Love these discussions! Gary
  7. Yes.. Jon did put all new gaskets in the NOS Carter (WCD 2 bbl 608S) before he shipped it to me. He also spent a ton of time with me on the phone and via e-mail educating me and explaining why I should swap out the old Marvel. His knowledge of these carburetors is unmatched and I am so grateful he took the time with me and got me all hooked up with this Carter. The car starts so much easier, idles super smooth and has plenty of power and pickup. There is a noticeable difference between the original Marvel and this later-model Carter. (I think this Carter 608S was factory equipment for Buick Series 40 - 50 in 1941, 1942 and 1946. Please correct me if I have this detail wrong) That is precisely why I didn't hit the panic button here, I just wanted to know if this is something that happens with these Buicks. Today I received a private message and I was introduced to the term "Hot Soak". It was explained to me like this: " It is unlikely that rebuilding the carburetor will cure any wetness at the carburetor mounting gaskets. This is something that occurs after engine shut-off, when the engine temperature rises for the first few minutes and can cause the gasoline in the bowl to percolate and dump down onto the closed throttle plates, soaking the base stack with raw gas. This can be exacerbated by excess fuel pump pressure or by using "high octane" modern gas, as premium blends boil at lower temperatures than 87 octane. The "Hot Soak" is not a carburetor problem." All I ever put in the Buick's tank is 94 octane Sunoco Ultra. I think I'll try the 87 octane next, and continually monitor the carburetor. Like I said, it is not dripping or pooling around the base, just the gasket stack is "moist", and I wasn't sure if this was a common occurrence with the Buick. I did take Matt's advice and checked my mounting nuts. All three loosened up since being installed and the gasket crushed down a bit. So I tightened up the base nice and snug again. I'm going to check the float level next and adjust accordingly. Hopefully the combination will help alleviate the wet gasket in the future. As always, thanks for the advice and all the suggestions. I'll let you know how I make out once I burn this tank of 94 and fill up with 87 at the next fill up. Enjoy the game! Gary
  8. Saturday February 2, 2019: Carburetor Question Tonight I went out to the garage to measure the distance from the end of the master cylinder to the clevis for another forum member who was setting up his brakes. When I opened the hood, there was a distinct odor of gasoline. Now, I realize this is the carburetor side of the engine, but it was "noticeable". The car has been sitting for a week. When I looked closer, the gasket stack is quite damp all around the base of the carburetor. If you "blot" it with a paper towel, there is moisture there. Not soaking, but "moist". The gas is not pooling out around the base of the carburetor, but it seems like it's doing the same thing the old Marvel was doing. So... do I have a problem here or is this OK? Is this something "they all do" or is this an issue to be resolved. I just want to catch it before I end up diluting my engine oil again. The original Marvel was swapped out for this Carter 608S. It is an NOS carburetor so I just bolted it on and made the necessary parts complete the conversion. Aside from setting the idle screw, I didn't touch anything. Carburetors just are not my thing. Better left alone if you don't know what you are doing. When I looked at the base, it is definitely "moist" with gasoline. Not "pooling" around the intake where it bolts down, but "moist" all around. Different angle. But you can see the base gasket stack is moist even at the forward side. There is also a leak up top where the pin exits from that box on top. That leak from up there is pooling a little. Actually, all the gaskets look kinda "damp" everywhere! So the question is: Is this just normal break-in, seating, first few hundred miles stuff or should I get this looked at? Is there an adjustment on this carburetor that will stop the gasket from getting wet like that? If I just need to go around it and tighten up all the screws, I'll be happy with that. If someone can chime in either way, I'd appreciate it! Happy Groundhogs Day! (early spring) Gary
  9. Gary W

    1937 Buick Stromberg Carb With Vacuum Starter Switch

    When I restored my '37, I obviously had a brand new wiring harness so the color codes were clear. Using the wiring schematic, I hooked up according to the chart. The "Red Cross-tracers" to the front side of the switch, The "Black Parallel" tracers to the rear of the switch. So this is what the switch looked like before I swapped out the entire vac switch, automatic choke, carburetor... But, I am wondering, if you look at the wiring diagram, can you simply remove the 16 BP wire off the solenoid and attach a small light bulb? Then, using a 9V battery, try both your wires and see which one lights the lamp. Maybe trace the circuit / wire that way? Just a thought.
  10. Gary W

    Pre-War Buick Advertisements

    This is great! I love these.. Any for the 1937 Year?
  11. Sunday January 20, 2019: Hand Throttle (Part Two) With the dash attachment done, I started on the pull knob. The wire that runs inside the outer casing is firmly attached to this pull knob. Here's the problem. The end that the wire attaches to is broken. So what I did here is Drilled a 1/16" hole through the remaining metal at the end of the part. I bent the wire 90 degrees. This way, there was a mechanical "Lock" to attach the two. Next, I cut the protruding end down so it stood just a bit proud when the wire was moved. I was going to solder it together, but I realized that once its in the tube, there is no room for it to move and it should stay secure. The tube keeps the wire centered in position. Now, simply slide this wire through the outer casing... Back to the car, begin sliding the finished casing through the dash panel. Slip on your mounting hardware before running it through the firewall. Tighten it up behind the dash, then run the casing through the firewall pad and into the engine bay. The casing came through the firewall above the voltage regulator (I don't know if that is correct, but there were holes already punched, so I used them). Then the casing routes down the firewall and clips just before it attaches to the throttle linkage. With the dash knob pushed in fully, pull up the little lever arm and attach the inner wire. I didn't start it today because it's pouring out, but I did roll the window down and watch the action as I pulled it out and it moves the throttle plate on the carburetor so I think it'll work just fine. Have a great night! Gary
  12. Sunday January 20, 2019: Hand Throttle (Part One) Today I spent a couple of hours in the garage hooking up the hand throttle pull so it operates as designed. Being mine was rusted and broken and could not be re-used, I had to be a little creative to get everything working. In the end, it all works as it should. Two years ago, removing the unit from the back of the dash panel. Everything was hopelessly rusted solid. I bought this generic choke cable at NAPA auto parts. Turns out, all I actually used was a 36" section of the casing and the wire that runs inside it. Remove the pull knob. Mine was not attached to anything so it slid right out. Then remove the nut and washer from inside the dash and slide out the face and the tube. Here's the guts on the bench. Couple of issues here: 1. The "tube" that holds the outer casing firm was split down the side. 2. The pull knob unit is broken at the end where the inner wire attaches. Using wire, I made some preliminary measurements from the inside of the dash to the throttle linkage. Pull the wire out from the casing. Lock the outer casing in the vise and cut to the required length. I cut it to 36", disregarding all the rest of the stuff attached to it. Dress it smooth with the file as the hacksaw makes it pretty messy. To help attach the outer casing to the dash "tube", I used this JB Weld epoxy. You can see the split, so I inserted the knob just so I knew how far the casing can go in. Then, I used the epoxy around the casing and basically "screwed" it down into position. Once coated and seated, I pressed the split tight in the vise to aid in retention. Set this aside now that the 36" casing is attached to the dash tube. Part 2: the dash knob and final installation.
  13. Gary W

    1968 Volvo P1800S

    Looks like Roger Moore's car in The Saint! Beautiful! Good Luck with the sale.
  14. Gary W

    1937 Buick Radio Knobs

    Carl; Your are correct: Here's the sequence: Radio supported by the bracket that drops down from the rear hood hold-down bolt. That bracket is adjustable to get the radio face parallel with the dash. Special thin nuts secure the radio to the dash panel. Your bass/treble local/distant knobs have a flat spot that fits over the shaft. Finally the ivory plastic knobs are slid in position and set with a set screw. Gary
  15. Gary W

    1940 Buick Super Restoration

    Back in June, 2017, I got my steering column / box back from Lares. I was just in the process of sanding, prepping..... Matt Hinson sent me a link from the July-Aug 2016 Toque Tube II: From Matt: "The colors for most of the interior components are listed on the 1937 Buick Paint Chart. You can find it reproduced on page 4 of the attached issue of the Torque Tube II. VOL 9 No 4 JULY-AUG 2016.pdf Of course, this is for 1937, but maybe the '40's are similar? I don't know the "original source" for the chart though.
  16. Gary W

    1937 Buick Radio Knobs

    The radio knobs are a one-piece ivory-colored plastic knob with a small set screw to hold it tight.
  17. Gary W

    1940 Buick Super Restoration

    The '37's called for "Marsh Brown" on the column. (...and some other components) I painted mine "Savoy Brown", mixed non-metallic only because I liked the deeper color next to my wood grained parts. But the Marsh Brown is proper for the '37 Buick. I used SEM "Trim Black" on the box to match the chassis components.
  18. Gary W

    Opinions re. Condition II

    That is the correct bracket. The 90 degree top part attaches to the bolt that comes down from your rear hood hold-down bolt. The serrated end allows you to adjust the rear up and down to get the face nice and flush before tightening it down. I think it was around $400 to completely restore the radio to blue tooth compatibility. Great Article!!
  19. Gary W

    1935 Lincoln K Club Sedan

    Congratulations Matt and your crew! I'm a firm believer in The Eureka Phenomenon. I can't count how many times the solution came to me when I simply walked away from the problem. So happy for you and can't wait to see how this all finishes. Gary
  20. Gary W

    1940 Buick Super Restoration

    You can upload it to You Tube and just imbed the link here. With only 9MB limit, your video clip will be only one or two seconds if you upload it directly to the Forum.
  21. Gary W

    Opinions re. Condition II

    Phillip: Love the article. If you are still planning on restoring the radio, please consider "Bill the Radio Guy". He made my original radio bluetooth compatible and it has a hidden pigtail to keep your phone charged. I have since made playlists on my phone (or iPod....) with all the big bands... Glenn Miller, Artie Shaw, Benny Goodman and some old radio shows.... It makes the ride so much fun! Great job! Gary
  22. Gary W

    Filter for fuel pump - '37 Special

    Mine has a circular fine brass mesh screen that sits at the top of the glass bowl to prevent impurities from exiting into the fuel line. The previous owner also had an in-line filter attached to the Marvel carburetor also. I did not use the secondary filter as I feel with the tank all treated by Moyer, and new lines, the brass screen should work out fine.
  23. Gary W

    Battery Cable Size/Routing/etc - '37 Special

    James, I just realized all my cables are size 1/0. (Which is a size zero, "one aught"). I'm sorry for the confusion. You originally stated you were going with the 2/0, and on 6V that's a good choice but these work nicely.
  24. Gary W

    Battery Cable Size/Routing/etc - '37 Special

    Plenty of juice to the starter. She turns over fine and it's still a fresh overhaul... still a little tight. I have no problem adding a few extra grounds. A lot of gremlins are caused by faulty grounds. If I can help at all, please don't hesitate. Gary
  25. Gary W

    Battery Cable Size/Routing/etc - '37 Special

    Hello James! Here's how I routed my battery cables. All my cables are size 1/0 and are also cloth covered. I ordered them custom sizes with either battery stud clamp ends or rings depending on where I used them. Overview of my cables. I actually have two heavy cables coming off the " - " (Ground) terminal because I'm a mental case and wanted to be sure I had the car grounded well. I scraped all the POR-15 off the frame above and below the frame. That yellow shmutz is a corrosion-inhibiting battery paste. I used star washers to give it mechanical "bite" into the frame as well. So, the yellow wire under the frame is a dedicated ground wire that runs back to the fuel tank sending unit. I did cover it with a tar-impregnated cloth covering when it was installed. One ground cable runs over to the top of that connection so the cable grounds the frame and the tank ground runs directly from that stud as well. This cable was made with two eyes, the eyes are tinned. Here's how the ground to the frame looks like under the car. All battery cables are cloth covered. That cloth covered wire clipped to the frame rail is the dedicated ground to the tank. The second cable off the negative side of the battery goes up to the starter grounding post. This cable was made with a battery stud clamp on one side, an eye on the other. I have that ground cable attached directly to the ground stud of the starter motor, and a braided ground strap runs from that stud over to the engine mount/side frame rail. The other heavy cable is the hot wire. I ran it through the opening in the engine casting to keep it stable. I also ran ground wires to every single lamp on the car to be sure everything illuminated nicely. Can you say overkill? Can't help it. The only thing I did differently is installed a master kill switch just before the hot cable attaches to the starter. I really want to move that switch either under the dash, or somewhere else easier to access so I don't have to lift the hood every time I want to take her for a ride. If you need any other photos or whatever..... I got thousands! Gary