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Stooge last won the day on April 3 2019

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About Stooge

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  • Birthday 09/22/1987

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    South Shore, MA

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  1. Not alot of progress, but some forward progress and alot of filthy work that i dragged my feet through. Im putting an order together for Bob's including the new bellhousing/ engine mounts, throw out bearing, and a few other things, to hopefully get an engine into this car for the first time, i would guess, in many decades. I think the only component i am still missing to get the transmission and engine bolted together is the correct clutch fork with the through hole for the pedal linkage, and i believe a is slightly bent/ concave. I blew apart the rear a few weeks ago and managed to get it back in over the weekend 20200417_161235 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200607_111003 by Dan Haas, on Flickr Originally i was planning on just replacing the rear leaf springs with new ones from Eaton, but with the car seemingly being apart longer than it was together and they looked to be in good shape, i pulled them apart, wire wheeled them, ground out any indent marks from the edges, softened the edges and corners, and gave them a once over with a flap wheel to give it a quick little polish. Then painted with durable tractor implement paint and applied some graphite paste lubricant before re-assembling. I still need to order the leaf spring clamps but i wanted to get the suspension back in so i could get the chassis back on wheel dollies as it was in the way on jack stands 20200519_175330 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200523_124729 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200516_132827 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200521_193450 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200521_195130 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 2020-07-06_01-11-51 by Dan Haas, on Flickr I havent pulled the axles yet, but plan to when i do the brakes and replace whatever seals/ bearings are in the outer/ flange. i also have to make some new, what i am assuming are, triagulation bars that run from the rear to the torque tube, one of mine was rusted to the point it was snapped off at the bolt and the other was pretty close to being there. i have the raw materials and die to make new ones saved to my McMaster carr list, i just havent ordered them yet. Theyre going to have to be very slightly different, as the stock ones have a 9/16-18 thread, but the unthreaded portion of the bar seems to drop down to 1/2" or so, so the nuts can unthread into the center and make it possible to install as it would not clear otherwise. i intend to just thread a longer portion of the rod to just be able to run the nuts up further to get them out of the way enough to install. I still need to send out my rear shocks for rebuild. 20200627_110009 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200627_111535 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200627_123156 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200627_135838 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200627_135747 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200523_135944 by Dan Haas, on Flickr New Ubolts, (they are a little longer than stock, but i plan on trimming the excess length off the ends) and new bump stops from Steele Rubber, 20200704_131821 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200704_132014 by Dan Haas, on Flickr I need to dig out my parts storage bins as i would like to get the parking brake cables, fuel lines and brake lines run or atleast mocked up before the body goes back on. I am also planning on running an electric fuel pump in line with the mechanical pump for some back up and was planning on using the 6volt rotary vane Carter one, as i have used them before, albeit 12v ones.
  2. I measured the ones in my coupe and had 31 1/8" from end to end with the support extended/the trunk open all the way
  3. I don't have an extra set, but I have to stop by my shop later tonight if you are still in need of measurements of the supports by then. 1937 Century coupe, old picture though. 2020-05-28_01-56-36 by Dan Haas, on Flickr
  4. @MCHinson also posted these very good reference pictures to get an idea of original gaps in that thread as well
  5. when I was building my running boards, @Gary W sent me some very helpful pictures with the gaps he had on his running boards. in the pictures, his are freshly vulcanized, but is a good reference it didn't quote right, so I just copy and pasted from my thread where he posted these "Here are a few photos of the finished running boards on my '37 Special. There is just about a 3/4" clearance everywhere, and that's with the rubber vulcanized on the board. I basically loosened up all the mounting nuts and bolts, positioned the board so the gaps were consistent following all the fender contours and tightened it up. I hope these help!"
  6. A few recent things, im the proud new owner of a rebuilt 11" pressure plate, which with the exception of a clutch fork, means I almost have a full drive train 20200427_204241 by Dan Haas, on Flickr Dug out the shocks that I've acquired, one is different and I believe may be from a slightly later Oldsmobile, but the other 2 seems to be a matching pair, and also match the mounting holes in the rear sway bar. One was pretty well frozen, but with a little work and some oil, both seems to move freely and are building tension pressure, but I still plan on sending them out for rebuild as one of them was pretty dry so im assuming whatever rubber is inside would be pretty deteriorated. still need the shock links to the rear end, but I need to go through my boxes to see whats in there, though I think I have seen them for sale through Bob's or another vendor. 20200503_174041 by Dan Haas, on Flickr Feel free to skip the rest, and remember this is a modest- 'lets try and do a nice job on a small budget because my last project was waay over budget' project and this car was stripped clean and sold off of alot of the useful/ hard to find pieces No gas tank or straps came with this car, after some measuring and going over everything, I decided on a first gen Camaro/ firebird tank. Came from Tanks inc, was inexpensive, but I already knew there was going to be modifications so I wasn't that worried, though the metal was a little thin. 20200424_175819 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200424_181557 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200424_202814 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200424_203915 by Dan Haas, on Flickr Next was making some mounting straps, decided on 1/8, a little on the thick side and overkill, but worked well and is something I wont have to worry about. Some T bolts from McMaster Carr, 3/8-16 20200502_150237 by Dan Haas, on Flickr Bent to follow the shape of the tank, i'll be cutting some rubber strips and adhering them to act as isolators, but Im going to have to to pull the tank a few times when the body is back on to make the passenger side filler neck, as well as paint the tank and straps and reseal the tank after its been welded 20200510_135557 by Dan Haas, on Flickr I've been really trying to avoid doing any sort of non-reversible welding on the frame, but I conceded and filled 2 of the factory gas tank slots on the rear, and used (2) 3/8-16 weld nuts to act as the rear mount. This keeps the tank accessible from underneath and takes out the need of trying to fish a wrench on top when the body is back on and keeps the tools needed to service it, if the need arises, to a minimum. I plan on taking this car on some longer road trips when its done, and keeping things accessible is something im really trying to keep in mind for when im on the side of the road a few states away from home 20200510_130147 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200510_134310 by Dan Haas, on Flickr I did use the front mounts without any sort of modification to the frame, 20200510_141323 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200510_141315 by Dan Haas, on Flickr The next, not completely correct piece, was that the 320 engine I have, is from a 1947 and as such has a different front engine mount plate behind the timing chain. I've been looking without much luck, though I did have someone offer to sell me one for $500, but I politely declined, so I figured I would give this a try. I still need to pull the piece out and weld it from the backside and fish plate it for a little extra security but it at least keeps the ball rolling in the right direction. Made a quick and dirty frame template 20200422_202032 by Dan Haas, on Flickr Some cuts made 20200425_144715 by Dan Haas, on Flickr And some bends to make the lower angled edge into a horizontal plane 20200425_152338 by Dan Haas, on Flickr one of the filler pieces, made from 3/16 plate. 20200425_152438 by Dan Haas, on Flickr Aesthetically, I should have made 2 separate pieces for the larger filler piece and made the side piece rounded instead of one piece that I scored and bent, but having it squared off a bit will give more clearance to getting long enough bolts in and out 2020-04-27_10-13-28 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200426_123750 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200426_133608 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200426_132944 by Dan Haas, on Flickr
  7. When I pulled the doors off of my '37 Century coupe, I unbolted the hinges from the body and left them attached to the door rather than knocking the pins out, but my doors also didn't have any door panels in them so I didn't have to get around that to unbolt the stoppers, but if your getting your doors blasted, wont the interior panels have to come off anyways? Might as well make like easier and pop them off to give you some extra access to the inside of the door.
  8. I found some really nice condition plates for my '37 last year, and would like to use them when the Buick is on the road, but I can also see Massachusetts possibly being uncooperative to be able to use them and drive the car whenever, so if it seems like its going to be a pain, I will just use regular plates
  9. I've been trying to put a list of the last few essential things im missing to have a complete driveline and a few other things so im not bothering him, but the front engine mount and if he has a pressure plate and clutch fork, seem like a good enough excuse to call him. Has anyone talked to him since all of this virus stuff came out?
  10. Had to stop by my shop after work last night, and decided that since the new gas tank is on order, I should get to work and gave the frame a quick once over a degreaser and got to painting. I've become a fan of painting chassis parts and frames with tractor and implement paint, goes on easy and with the hardener, is extremely durable. There are a few crevices im going to go back through with a brush like the rear shock body pockets and stuff, but that was enough for an after work weeknight, and will give it enough time to dry before I start messing around mounting a tank and lines, etc. while im at it, im probably going to get the rear exhaust hangers in place and maybe buy a new set or parking brake cables since mine are in pretty rough shape and Bob's has them for $130 for the rear pair. 20200418_160210 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 2020-04-21_09-05-29 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200420_202109 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200420_200747 by Dan Haas, on Flickr
  11. Looking for a front engine mount plate for my 1937 Buick Century, as the 320 I have going into the car is a few years later and utilizes the engine cradle style mount. I've had a few potential ones fall through, and before I start cutting and reshaping the mounting plate that is on the engine now, I wanted to see if anyone has an extra stashed away. Thanks!
  12. I used a New Port Engineering wiper set up in a truck I built, and was very happy with it, though I did change the knob from the cheesy plastic one, but hadn't even thought to see if they offered something for the '37. If this works with the 6volt wiring as Morgan said, i'll go that route as Im missing most of the stock vacuum stuff from this car.
  13. Finally stopped dragging my feet a few nights ago, and started welding in the driver side tail panel, the big gap at the top was from when I made some changes after the first cuts were made. Just a first pass and still needs some clean up, and the small filler piece I had to make was giving me grief since there was some undiscovered brazing on the underside of the sheet metal where the 3 new pieces met the body, so I called it a night 20200415_175655 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200415_195458 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200415_201651 by Dan Haas, on Flickr I wanted to get the tail panel, most welded in so there wouldn't be any body panels flopping around, since Friday I recruited a buddy and we got the body off of the chassis and set on some stands 20200417_160454 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200417_161235 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200417_163038 by Dan Haas, on Flickr I had been planning on sending the frame out to be sandblasted as it looked pretty crusty, and honestly I was a little nervous about the condition of it before I started pulling the body apart. When I first pulled the nose off, and gave it a quick hit with a wire wheel, it cleaned up surprisingly easy, and with everyone being shut down, and in the interest of sacrificing a weekend to save some budget, I spent around 10hrs between Saturday and Sunday cleaning it up. I don't want to suggest that this was a good idea, a safe idea, or a good use of time, but no blood/ incidents, a few near misses when a wheel would grab something and bounce off suddenly, especially with all of the X frame structure and crevices. I am pretty happy with the results, it came out a lot better than i was expecting and really was a lot easier and went quicker than i was expecting. Im going to try and get it painted this week, order a gas tank, ( probably a nova tank from Tanks Inc, inexpensive since I will need to cut and modify it to reposition the filler neck), some fuel line and brake line, and try and run those lines while the body is off to make life a little easier for when Im actually close to needing to connect the brakes and fuel, but the body will be back on the chassis. 20200418_123032 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200418_143856 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200419_135728 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200419_135739 by Dan Haas, on Flickr Also, came across an ebay ad for a new old stock door panel for a 1937 Buick coupe a week or 2 ago for $100, so Wednesday or Thursday, i threw out a best offer of $50 and they accepted and was delivered sunday from fedex, which i didn't know they made deliveries on sundays. Looks stained in the picture, and im sure its a little faded, but really good condition. Not sure the history on this type of thing, if they were remanufactured for awhile afterwards, or if this has just been sitting in a box for 80+ yrs 2020-04-20_07-50-06 by Dan Haas, on Flickr Luxor Motor Sales ? Grand Rapids, MI 20200419_170813 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20200419_170817 by Dan Haas, on Flickr
  14. I remember last year, you posted/ started doing something that really stuck with me, about trying to take an active position and picked up a few cars, while maybe not the most popular, were very nicely done, running cars with the intent on selling them at quite reasonable prices that wouldn't scare off people trying to get into the car hobby and just get out and enjoy! I think this is as important as anything else, as a price under $15k or even $20k, really moves things into the realm of possibility for the average person with an interest, where they are more likely to see an auction on tv, where "everything" is going for big bucks, and don't realize, you can be out bopping around for not a big financial commitment or risk.
  15. While at 32, im twice the age of your daughter, but being as much of a car person as I am, and knowing many other people around my age with pre- war and pre 90's cars, it does get a little old, constantly being reminded that my generation and I , have no interest in cars, when really i would imagine that the people saying that, just aren't around younger car people so they don't see it. Add to that, what different age demographics find fun and enjoyable, and what a 24yr old finds fun, and what a 65yr old finds fun, while still involving old cars, could vary. Honestly, the 2 things that stick out to me, and what i hear the most from people who have an interest in getting into cars, is spare money and the thought that for ANY cool car, your going to have to pony up a lot of money, which i don't think is true and i believe i am demonstrating with my 1937 Century build done on a budget, and, secondly, i think people feel like they are afraid of what they don't know and assume old cars are these very fragile, confusing, antiquated, complicated, pieces and just wouldn't know where to start.