DonMicheletti

Members
  • Content Count

    1,439
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

466 Excellent

1 Follower

About DonMicheletti

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Menlo Park, CA

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. My "special tool" for plug insertion has always been a socket. Didnt even know there was actually a tool, but not surprised.
  2. While not exactly the same, I did my '38 Special front wiring. I connected the instrument cluster and dash mounted items before installing the wiring in the car. Saved a lot of under dash work.
  3. OK, I understand about that grove under the ring. That gives the scraped oil somewhere to go. However, I doubt that it is the major source of wrist pin lube since there is so much oil splashing around under the piston. Nonetheless I like the fact that you are able to use the original pistons and ring type (except the oil control). Since the engine never did have a real oil control ring, things have got to be better now.
  4. Mark, I like those oil control rings. I think some Chevies had splash oiling on the rods until '53!!! Talk about archaic.
  5. I'd think the chances of your crank being less than .0005" to .00075 (right amount of zeros) out of round or tapered is pretty close to zero. However, perfection is optimal.
  6. The amount of carbon you removed pointed to a ring issue. The nice thing about these engines is that valve guide wear is not a contributor to oil consumption nor carbon.
  7. Morgan, I mean the side clearance between the ring and its grove. Are the groves OK? The .120" end gap is huge.
  8. I think the bearings and journals look good. Just plastigage them for correct clearance and you'll be OK. I would never use thin shell insert bearings on a splash lubricated engine. One of the nice things about the way thick babbit and splash lube work is that if you loose lube and develop a knock you can shut the engine down before any scoring occurs. A thin shell bearing would score the journal immediately. As a big car collector friend once said, "everybody knows where to start a restoration - very few know where to stop"
  9. I think you guys are overthinking this pin plug thing. The plugs are not tight enough against the bores or pins to restrict oil flow. The pin bushings are in the rod and are lubed by a hole in the rod small end (on my engine) and from the inside of the piston, not the bores. A good portion of the idea of the rings is to prevent oil from getting to the combustion chamber. Even extremely small amounts of oil passing will result in smoking and oil consumption. Typically, the ring above the oil control ring is a scraper to "squeegee" oil back to the crankcase and out of the combustion chamber. The 50 or so years my engine has had the pin plugs tells me they are not an issue.
  10. Are you going to pull the other pistons too? What is the ring side clearance?
  11. Here is one possible source for the plugs: https://www.dansperformanceparts.com/vw-aircooled-engine-part/vw-airecolled-pistion-cylinders/pistion-pin-retainers.html They dont say the pin diameter
  12. Looks really good. You might try going directly to Hastings on the rings. They are very good in helping and the prices are right. The Teflon plugs have no effect whatsoever on pin lubrication. The bearing is actual;ly in the rod. I have has Teflon plugs in the pins of my engine for about 50 years with no adverse effect. Based on my experience with the pin retaining screw coming out and the pin scoring the cylinders, I would not rely on that at all. The Teflon plugs make a scored cylinder an impossibility.
  13. Morgan, I have always pulled the pistons with no real problem. But it has been so long I dont remember if there was a trick - I dont remember one.