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About DonMicheletti

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    Menlo Park, CA

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  1. Bob, Kind of gives you an idea of just what is needed for these "really high" compression engines back whe they were new. This is yet another "over thunk" issue by guys who have worked on more meodern engines. Im near 80 and I remember the crazy stories my dad told me about working on engines way back when and when just getting back on the road was the real objective.
  2. I have a '38 Roadmaster that had the same problem, missing teeth. I couldnt find a replacement so I built up the area with weld and filed new teeth. Photo after repair. That was 30+ years ago
  3. I found that it can take a long time. driving th pump with a drill, to get oil to the rockers. It takes a lot of oil to fill that hollow shaft before oil comes out. To check, you can remove the little tube that feeds the shaft at the front and see if you are getting oil there
  4. Morgan is right and Mark is wrong. I was taught by an old sleam locomotive pipe fitter that the correct way to anneal copper is to heat it to red and quench it. Heating steel to red will not necessarily anneal it if it isnt cooled correctly - slowly
  5. No adjustment at all. The plug just adjusts the force on the spring assembly. Backing it out allows removal of the drag link and tie rods
  6. OK Neil. What is next? Those idle hands
  7. Chexkm the dimensions of the wiper chamber. It should be the same at the ends and center. If not it may never wok correctly
  8. Have them hardened (case hardened if they are not hardenable material) or they may wear out very soon if there is even slight mis - alignment
  9. I have had Delrin seals in my '18 fo years and they have workd well. Plus you dont have to tighten the nuts as much as with copper. On the metering adjustment. I think you are sealing on threaded portion and that is very dificult with any type o molded seal. Graphite paccking has worked well for me.
  10. The fun part is when you do drive it after a while, you get to neutral, on shifting, and think "where do I go now"
  11. I think the nipple was cast in when the housing is made. No one sells replacement parts, so it is impossible to really rebuild one. If the housing ia warped, nothing will fix it
  12. As a novice, you are doing great. Lots of guys wouldnt touch this job. This is how you become an "expert"!
  13. That shift pattern plate is a new one to me and really great. Switching from the '18 to the '38's makes you think a bit when shifting. The plates on my car show their age and use and I'm OK with that - it is a used car
  14. At least coat the gears with grease. In a perfect world, I'd pull the distributor and drive the pump with an electric drill until I had oil pressure on the gage = easy to feel via the drill. I wouldnt recommend that for Neil. Pulling the coil wire and cranking until he sees pressure would be best - If his battery can stand it. I had an instance when I didnt coat the gears and the pum would not prime. That surprised me. I hjad to drop the pan and grease the gears. Ehgine was on a test stand.
  15. Terry, Are those floor plates original or reproductions? They look fabulous