Jump to content

Stooge

Members
  • Posts

    240
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

Everything posted by Stooge

  1. Thanks Gary! I understood your notes completely, and between yours and Matthew's pictures, i think i have it figured out. I just had a quick look through a few of the boxes based on the pictures, hoping to come up with the accelerator rod end block and trunion clevis pin, etc but nothing yet, (though i did find the missing door lock rod that i thought inwas going to have to make which was a nice surprise). I have another box of stuff at my garage that i'll check, but as long as i have the bracketry, i think i should be able to come up with some acceptable hardware to make it work. McMaster Carr carries a pretty big selection of clevis pins and rod ends but Im not above making sonething if need be. Thanks again guys! I really appreciate it!
  2. Thanks Matthew! Those pictures answer alot! So correct me if im wrong, (all of these pictures are posting upside down if they look funny) Hand throttle tab Toeboard mounting bracket, (not a great picture) Actuating/pivot piece, -shallow channel for the pedal rod and clevis -upper U channel holes for a pivot pin to the toeboard mounting bracket -deep channel hole on the opposite side for accelerator rod and clevis to the carburetor and bent tab for the return spring? Thanks again!
  3. Hi Everyone, Still plugging away on my Century coupe, and will be pulling the engine soon to start bodywork and paint, but am trying to get some things sorted while its still in. I have a handful of parts that i believe are the main linkage/ bracketry on the underside of the toeboard for the throttle pedal and hand throttle, but am not too sure of the configuration, what i may be missing or what hardware is used as my car was stripped and parted out at some point in it's life. Does anyone have pictures showing how the firewall/ toeboard throttle and springs are set up? I would imagine the 1938 models would be set up similarly. Thanks in advance! I have a few crates of parts to look through, but i believe these are some of the main parts
  4. This one might seem a little silly, but i'd have to say that the cartoon short Susie The Little Blue Coupe from 1952, was probably my earliest car oriented memory that i remember seeing and paying attention to. I think it made me want a car with white walls when i was whatever single digit age that i saw it at, and now i have a car with white walls 😄
  5. Hey a local sale! I live in Abington, and i think i have seen this around, though Mopar stuff of this the era isnt my strong suit, and i probably thought it was a Coronet as there are a few of them in the area. Looks like a tidy car for the price!
  6. Hey Bob, thanks, i appreciate it, and no problem about not getting back, i figured you didnt have it when it didnt come with the seats, i had to ask just in case, (and it was fun to make the new handle and bracket). i had been meaning to shoot you some pictures of the seats set up last week. I was thinking of, and probably will at some point, of making another handle for the other side so they would match and could be polished up, but its fine for the time being and theres enough other stuff to do to keep me busy. If i get them reupholstered, i will definitely be making another one though. Thanks again for the smooth transaction!
  7. There a guy in Monson, MA, and though he seems to do more of the custom/ hot rod side of things, he certainly seems very talented and could be worth reaching out to https://www.instagram.com/kustomitch/ https://www.thehogring.com/2020/06/09/meet-mitch-woloshchuk-mitchs-kustoms/
  8. I dont know if i am a younger person these days at 33, but i have had , and worked on, cars that were older than me since i was about 22 or so. Aside from my new'ish daily driver, the current projects range from the mid 1980s to the late 1930s, and i have a little shop to work on my own personal projects as well as other's cars. currently with 4 on going projects and another 1 that just went to paint.
  9. Not many cars are better looking to me, than '41 Buicks, and especially the coupes just have such a nice shape to them, and the first 3 posts are all beauties! Im not always the biggest fan of visors, but i have to say it actually looks pretty good on there, but more importantly, doesnt look goofy and out of place, and i think compliments the shape of the car. Great color too!
  10. Hey, thank you, i really appreciate that! I'm just a hobbyist, but i like to be able to say that with whatever it is, that i tried to do the best job i could do and be proud of, with the resources i have. This car is sneakily getting nicer and nicer, so i'm trying to do right by it and do things the right way!
  11. Theres a slightly off topic (hot rod) 1937 Plymouth coupe i am doing some metal repairs on for someone, thats keeping me busy, but i managed to get a few things done so i can bring the seats home and out of harms way with all of the other metal work going on. The seats were mostly complete, but one of the bottoms, was missing the handle/ leg support that actuates a latch to lock the seats into the buckets. The seller didnt think he had them, and never contacted me to say other wise, and i figured the likelihood of finding one was pretty slim so i started to cobble one together! Starting with some 304 stainless 1/4" rod, and a little chunk of 304 1/4" plate, stainless so that it could eventually be polished up. 20210614_180242 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20210704_184403 by Dan Haas, on Flickr Eventually had a shape to somewhat match the toothed head to move the latch mechanism 20210704_202903 by Dan Haas, on Flickr Tig welded with 308L rod to the 1/4" rod and sanded down a bit, i left some of this stuff a little rough so there was enough material when i go to sand it down and polish everything. 20210704_205911 by Dan Haas, on Flickr For the bracket, i found a piece of .5 x 1.5 x .125 304 stainless rectangular tubing since i didnt think i would be too successful in replicating such a tight bend with the material thickness. 20210717_111328 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20210717_111400 by Dan Haas, on Flickr A few layers of tape over the original bracket provided a little template 20210717_113657 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20210717_114247 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20210717_114526 by Dan Haas, on Flickr A few die grinders, files, some heat, a hammer and a vise later, i had this 20210717_123836 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20210717_141614 by Dan Haas, on Flickr Originally, the handle was riveted to the bracket, so i'll either rivet it, or find some 'not so out of place' looking hardware keep the handle in place, so that it is removable if the need ever arises, and i wont have to cut a rivet out. 20210717_141657 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20210717_142720 by Dan Haas, on Flickr (Ignore the flash rust on the new floor, it gets awfully hot and sweaty in there setting the seats up!) 20210717_144204 by Dan Haas, on Flickr I think whats left is to make the rear tab brackets for the seat buckets to secure them to the car floor, make some sort of pad or puck to reinforce the floor where the seat handle/ stand will sit, and figure out how/ where the side cushions secure to under the rear quarter windows. 20210717_144034 by Dan Haas, on Flickr
  12. ^ I was just about to reply about the steering wheel being refurbished/ recast by a previous owner, is a nice 'get' especially if it was rechromed at the same time. i've seen prices starting in the $1400 range for servicing a wheel, and going up from there. Looks good!
  13. Just in case you wanted it, the wheel and tire page from the 1937 Service Manual.
  14. That's unfortunate to hear about the one word answer, but i wouldnt worry too much about it. i know i have done it in social situations, sometimes your just not ready for a question, blurt something out and a few minutes later after you've walked away, you think, "eugh, why'd i say that!?" and dwell on it for a bit, or something. I dont know if i qualify as a younger person now at 33, but for atleast the last 12yrs, i've had cars that were older than me, and i really cant remember a time I thought i was being mistreated as a younger, old car enthusiast, or snubbing someone who is older. I'd have to say its pretty much the complete opposite, and everyone's always been pretty cool to me regardless of age, with any of my varied car interests, or people with higher priced cars, etc. Sure there are some obnoxious people in any group, and sometimes, i'll feel like i'm being quizzed by someone i'm just making small talk with, but nothing ever really malicious. I'll usually talk to anyone about anything as long as they aren't being an ass!
  15. I forget which group it was, maybe a classic Buicks one since the person was talking about his new mid '50s Buick acquisition that seemed to be in good shape. Inevitably, he brought up needing to swap over to an Art Morrison frame, LS, tremec, etc. and when questioned why he didnt just get a new car, and that the stock stuff was more than adequate, replied with " i aint no poser!" followed by the too slow, cant steer, etc rhetoric. i couldn't help but think, do they not realize, they are essentially playing car dress up, with a safe new car underneath, with modern steering, modern brakes, new engine and trans, and wearing a 60+yr old costume, so it looks the part? I cant say that i am a staunch purist, i've always liked race cars and period correct traditional hot rods and customs, and aside from my close to stock, prewar buick, i have a not so old old, ('84) vehicle with very little original chassis underneath it and alot of other changes, so i get stuff like that to a point. I cant even say i dont like alot of the aftermarket chassis stuff with my varied car hobby interests, but at least dont be so goofy about it and degrade the original equipment as an excuse to pretend you need giant 6 piston brake calipers and a hopped up LS to bring the family out for ice cream cones. a mid 1950s car, maybe with a few period correct speed parts is infinitely more times interesting and cooler to me than a big billet, LS restomod, etc. car.
  16. I havent had an excuse to personally use them, but I've always heard good things from local guys about Woodward Sping in Brockton, Mass. I think they are more geared toward trucks, but i've known old car guys to use them as well. (i believe this picture is the aftermath from a storm in 1938, and that they posted in reference to weathering the lockdowns storm last year)
  17. I would imagine any of my local tire stores would probably have to order them in, or if you ordered them and brought them in to mount. The wheels that came on my car are not correct, and i think are from a post war/ late 1940's car so the width and offset are wrong, and i'lli need to find replacement wheels as well. For tires, i have been planning on using Diamondback Auburn Deluxe radials https://dbtires.com/product/auburn-deluxe-radial-15-16-sizes/ a bias ply look a like radial that people really seem to like, and I was pretty set on bias plies before hearing about them. I still dont know if i am doing blackwalls or whitewalls though, the price difference is forgettable, and every time i sort of decide, i see a car with the other choice and I'm back to square one.
  18. Cant forget the usual handul of gun company stickers and maybe a Punisher comic book skull that are usually interspersed around there too! And here i thought i was being a little too ostentatious with a little smokey the bear sticker in the corner of the back window in my C10!
  19. Beautiful looking car, and yours looks to be in good shape! While they look great with whitewalls, i do always enjoy seeing them, especially the sedans, with blackwall tires. Though I've flipped back and fourth a dozen times on which way to go on my 1937 Buick Century when it gets to that point.
  20. Like a kid on christmas, i had to go play with my new seats and get them sorted, or atleast get them installed enough that i could bring them home and get them out of harms way at my shop and regular metal work and sparks. Acquired some 3/4" sanded on Thursday and by Sunday night had something resembling the rear folding opera seats, though i need to get the hardware i'll be using, since i just used what i had on hand. Started with a big cardboard template so i didnt risk messing up multiple sheets of plywood. 20210620_131811 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20210625_104242 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20210625_140212 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20210625_153508 by Dan Haas, on Flickr I used threaded inserts on the backside to the corresponding factory brackets that were still in place, so i could take it in and out without having to fasten into the wood itself. I still need to make some tabs for the threaded brackets on the backside of the seat bucket tins. I dont remember a bracket there on the original floor, but alot of that area of the original floor was rotted out, so some simple brackets are not an issue. 20210627_121511 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20210625_155821 by Dan Haas, on Flickr Unfortunately, it seems like the seller couldnt locate the missing leg post, or atleast i havent been told otherwise and its been a week or 2. I think the plan is to get a length of 3/8" polished stainless, and cobble together the latching/ block end, and break out the tig welder and weld them together to make a new handle for the missing side. Fortunately, it seems relatively simple and i have the one to copy. I was going to make a hardware order from McMaster Carr this morning for the seat and board fasteners, so i'll see what they have for stainless rod. 20210627_192256 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20210627_192336 by Dan Haas, on Flickr
  21. Agreed with Ed on sourcing a replacement. i've done some tig and mig cast iron repairs, but for low stress parts like cracked exhaust manifolds and the like, where you can get a good pre heat, and post weld cool down, and the repairs are not really structural. Add to that, assuming the metal is contaminated with decades of use, i would have low expectations of a lasting repair. Having said that, crown alloys, harris, and most of the welding supplies manufacturers offer some kind of nickel wire and rod for welding cast alloys, depending on the weld method and budget you're using, if you want to give it a try, if you are the one doing the welding. if its a farmed out repair, i would source a new/ reman head and you'll be time and probably money ahead.
  22. Very cool! Great pictures, and looks like it was a fun show with great weather! Never having been to France, I have to say I'm very surprised. I expected to see the '60s/'70s muscle cars, etc., but i never would have guessed there was such a variety of American cars over there, and most surprising to me, are how many new corvettes, camaros and mustangs there are. Thanks for taking the time to document and share!
  23. A few little updates, i've been getting distracted by some car projects for other people, but i have sort of set a little goal for myself to drive this to a regional Bay State Antique Auto Club show at the Endicott Estates in Dedham, MA. It's a show i've been frequenting for years and is a highlight show of the season for me, though since it was cancelled last yr, and postponed until July 2022, so that is my goal. I am guessing car may not be "finished" as far as interior is concerned by then, but it will shiny paint, and running/ driving, and will hopefully make me stop dragging my feet on finishing it. My last personal car project took atleast 7yrs,( i was also working on other's car projects) and admittedly started to lose interest near the end, and i would like to avoid that with this car. The rear of the car is mostly done, but i still have alot of grinding and sanding before bodywork can start. my car was missing the innermost lip around the trunk, so i built it the replacement stuff without it, so when i figured out it was missing, i added it. 2021-03-23_10-32-04 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 2021-03-23_10-31-56 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20210307_162601 by Dan Haas, on Flickr I've put together a starter and solenoid, though i am not so happy with the actuator linkage from the solenoid plunger. Solenoid came from Brillman, though i do not remember where the plunger came from, but i suspect i will need to find a new one, since it seems to bind. I am using an under dash starter switch in place of the accelerator pedal switch. 20210425_104000 by Dan Haas, on Flickr With what i believe is the correct NOS voltage regulator for using a dash switch. 2021-03-23_10-33-29 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 2021-03-23_10-33-40 by Dan Haas, on Flickr From the same person, (Jolly_john on here, i believe his username is) i picked up a set of NOS glass fender light lenses. i believe the shape of these indicate an earlier style and match the current leneses, just without cracks in them 2021-03-23_10-30-11 by Dan Haas, on Flickr and a 6 volt Optima so i can start trying some things. 2021-05-17_07-42-17 by Dan Haas, on Flickr Found a pair of the correct rear shocks, though they will need to get rebuilt. They both start to build tension with fluid added, but will weep out of the bushing/ joint overnight. The store Then & Now https://www.then-now-auto.com/shop-2/ is in the next town over and in the same town as my shop, so i will call them first and see if they rebuild this style shock, though i believe they do, i just havent done it yet. 20210509_101223 by Dan Haas, on Flickr Since i would like to start bodywork pretty soon, i dug out the door parts and proceeded to get them unfrozen, and made some keys for the door and trunk locks. The latch mechanisms both seem to be working well, and have a good "snap" to them. i need to find or make a new locking rod, i have only found the 1 so far in my crates of parts, annd i also plan on moving the locking handle to the driver side. i used some countersunk screws i had handy, but found envelopes with the correct hardware. Some previous owner, meticulously took the entire car apart, and bagged and labelled all of the hardware, and most of the smaller parts, but unfortunately, then proceeded to part the car out, so while i have a 100+ hardware envelopes, alot of the stuff was long gone when i came into possession of the car. 20210530_150030 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20210530_150047 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20210531_163734 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20210531_163943 by Dan Haas, on Flickr And yesterday, picked up something i wasnt really planning on using just yet, but they popped up for sale, hemmed and hawed over it for a morning and bought them, fold down rear opera seats. Especially after Lebaron Bonney went under, i really didnt expect to have much of an interior, and had not seen the rear seats for sale in my casual looking over the last few yrs, but i am glad to have them. Matching the upholstery will be down the road, but after i build it, i will get the rear support board covered to make it look a little more finished. 20210614_095519 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20210614_180157 - Copy by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20210614_180326 - Copy by Dan Haas, on Flickr Unfortunately i seem to be missing one of the supporting legs/ lever mechanism for latching the seat closed. The mechanism and latch are still in place, but the leg actuates the mechanism. i'll email the seller this morning to see if they have it, but i suspect not. 20210614_180242 by Dan Haas, on Flickr @DonMichelettiwas kind enough to send me some pictures of his car un-upholstered to steer me in the right direction as far as the backing board structure is concerned. I'll need to look into if im missing something to support the side cushion's upper loop mounts under the side window, and are just ziptied in place to get an idea of where they are supposed to locate. DSCN1557 - Copy by Dan Haas, on Flickr DSCN1559 - Copy by Dan Haas, on Flickr DSCN1560 - Copy by Dan Haas, on Flickr The service manual's depiction of the seats 2021-06-01_10-27-54 by Dan Haas, on Flickr A 1966 GTO i had been working on went to paint a few weeks ago, and i pushed the buick outside to do some spring cleaning 20210509_123058 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 20210509_123127 by Dan Haas, on Flickr
  24. Hi Everyone, in my on going modest restoration of my 1937 Buick Century Coupe that had long been stripped and parted out, i unexpectedly stumbled on, and subsequently bought, a pair of the fold down opera seats that are on their way to me from Wisconsin. Does anyone have any pictures of how the seats are installed? Aside from the brace under the rear window, which im guessing is either part of the seat construction, or solely in place for the headliner, there doesn't seem to be much back there to hold them in place. I rebuilt/ replaced the floor from the door sills back, but kept the same shape/ dimensions, and looking back at pictures of the original floor, there wast anything obvious to go off of. A small picture in the service manual, shows a board dividing the cabin area and the trunk, but not much in the way of details. I am guessing i will have to make something out of plywood and maybe add some tabs to mount the plywood to, with cutouts for the seat 'boxes', but if anyone has any pictures of that area from a restoration project to help point me in the right direction, i would appreciate it, thanks! 2021-06-01_10-27-54 by Dan Haas, on Flickr FB_IMG_1622197058850 by Dan Haas, on Flickr FB_IMG_1622197063786 by Dan Haas, on Flickr 2021-06-01_10-29-10 by Dan Haas, on Flickr
  25. I misread or missed part of the original post and thought the original poster already had the materials to do a scratch built one, or harnesses to piece meal it together. Rereading it, and what i would do myself if it is available, would definitely to buy a complete harness and install it. The time saved of having something that 'just fits' is worth whatever savings there would be making your own, sourcing terminals, etc. Assuming, they are working on a 1938 Dodge 1/2 ton from their other posts, a little over $400 for the main engine, dash and body harness, and $100 for the headlight harness from Rhode Island wire would be money well spent in my opinion
×
×
  • Create New...