1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)

[MCHinson]

Gary,

 

I don't have a photo of that model but I think that the chrome edge should closely follow the body contour. On every other model that I have seen, the chrome edge closely follows the body contours. I also think that it is close enough to fitting the opening that the window glass will be close enough that, while not perfectly fitting the full depth of the channel, it will close with an air tight and water tight seal in the felt.  I wonder if the glass was not cut quite right? In any case, If you can figure out a way to measure the window opening closely, your glass shop should be able to wet grind down the glass to more closely mirror the window opening shape.

[1967 - 1997 Riviera]

Building upon what MCHinson alluded to, is it possible that the glass pane is the culprit? Was the cracked glass you replaced, and which you followed closely to duplicate, not the original pane that came with the car? Maybe the original was broken somewhere in the car's prior history and was replaced with one that was not cut correctly. That might also help explain some of the rust you found in the bottom section of the body, because the bogus replacement glass did not seal tight.

[Gary W]

 

Just to clarify:  I was told that the windows I removed from the car were the original 80-year old Buick windows.  (Maybe / Maybe not)

The replacements are 100% exact duplicates.  

 

My question is how to shape the chrome-edged window channel when it comes around the back curve of the window opening.

 

The problem is this:

The OUTSIDE shape of the window opening (The window opening, (reveal) in the body) is a beautiful, sweeping curve when viewed from the outside.

The shape of the GLASS is different.  It has an angle on the rear, upper corner.  

The INSIDE the body is formed to accept that rear, upper corner angle of the window glass, having that upper rear angle built into the body.

 

So:  If I form the channel to the inside, the channel will fit the window perfectly, but the channel will be lost from view when looked at from outside the car. It will be "tucked" up into the channel and hidden under the reveal.

        If I form the channel to the outside, I think the window will push it deep into the channel.

 

The glass as removed from the car.  You can see the angle I'm talking about on both panes.

It's that rear, upper angle where the glass goes from curve on top to straight down vertical drop down the back surface.

 

 

This is the "LOF" markings etched in the glass.  Maybe it's not the ORIGINAL glass, but it' is made exactly to Buick specifications.

 

 

Here's the replacement glass.  It has the exact angle and the same vertical drop which goes straight down into the door channel.

 

 

From the Fisher Body Service manual:  Clearly you can see the "crease", "notch"... that accommodates the glass on the INSIDE

 

 

 

 

 

Here's the INSIDE of the window opening.  Notice the angle is built right into the Fisher Body to accept the angle of the rear window.

But also notice that the "crease" or the "angle" is set 1/2" deeper than the outer sweep of the window opening.

So if I attach the channel flush to the inner channel, the chrome edges will be behind the reveal at this spot.

 

 

This is how the car was assembled when I got it.  The channel has the angle in it to follow the inner body contour.

 

 

But you can also see where the channel is hidden behind the outer reveal when you do this.

 

 

1.  The outer reveal

2. The glass channel assembled to the interior "notch"

3. The gap where the channel is hidden under the outer reveal.

 

From the manual, the outer reveal is a much nicer, sweeping curve down.

 

Again... This is how I got the car.  The channel is gone from sight where it sits in that channel.

 

 

 

So when the window is up, I think it'll push the chrome channel into the body "crease" right at that point.

 

I've been thinking about it today, and I'm going to try to follow the outer sweep of the window reveal.

I may have to use a shim in the inside "crease" to support the channel.

If the window moves it, I might just cut a small slit in the channel to allow the window to pass through without moving the chrome channel deeper into the window.

 

Appreciate all the input here!

 

Gary

 

 

 

Edited October 23, 2017 by Gary W (see edit history)

[pont35cpe]

Gary, what about cutting a portion of the backside of the flex channeling out in the deep spot, and gluing some thick felt to the jamb of the deep curve. This is probably what you`re thinking anyways..

[pont35cpe]

Gary, I`ve always used a piece of 3"-4" PVC pipe to bend the radius shapes, works better than freehand bending. Just a thought..

[Gary W]

Sunday October 22, 2017:  Sound Deadening, Insulation

 

 

This afternoon I applied the Dynamat Extreme insulating panels to the floor inside the cabin.  Then I used a Dynamat to insulate the floor of the trunk.    Here's how I did it:

 

 

Clean everything up.  

You'll want to remove the battery cover, accelerator pedal, transmission cover and just remove the lower two screws of the pedal plates.

 

 

 

I bought this Dynamat Extreme "9-pack" which is 36 sq feet total.

I found the sheets very easy to maneuver and cut.

 

 

I began by laying things out with the backing paper still attached to try to figure the easiest way to lay things out with minimum cuts.

 

 

First piece being installed.  

 

 

I used the roller they recommend.  I purchased it when I did the firewall.

Roll everything down tight and into all the grooves.  It is very easy to mold into all the recesses.

 

 

Once the back sheets were in, I moved up front.  If you mark out all your openings, screw holes and other things with a gold sharpie marker it makes it easier to cut outside the car.

 

 

Here's my marks around the pedal pads.  I just removed the lower two screws and slid it under.

 

 

CAUTION!  IF THIS DOUBLES OVER ON ITSELF,  IT'S RUINED!

I lost one piece because I didn't know that once it folds over on itself there is this instant bond that is unbreakable! 

So I learned to leave the paper on, seat the leading edge then remove as you roll the mat down to the floor.

 

 

 

The stuff is in, and I just have to re-install the accelerator pedal and the transmission cover.

 

 

Covers back installed, which also helps keep the edges down nice and tight.

 

 

Another view

 

 

So, that is what 8 1/2 sheets will cover.  I only did the floor, and that's all you get out of the kit.

 

 

For the trunk, I opted to use one single "Dynapad".  It's 1/2" thick and very heavy.

Here, I lined up the rear edge to the trunk edge and folded it over to get the support line.

 

 

Using chalk, I marked the folded edge.  Remove it from the car and you'll get a good clean cut.

 

 

Being this pad is so heavy, I felt it really didn't need to be so strongly adhered.

I used this 3M product only on the edge.

 

 

A light spray, about 2" in from the back edge just to tack it in position and prevent sliding.

 

 

It's a good fit, and a nice cushioned base and a heavy sound deadener.

 

 

Next, I measured my trunk liner from LeBaron Bonney.  Again, keeping it nice and straight and even at the edge, I measured the angled wood support

 

 

Give it a good crease and mark it with your chalk.  Then double check it.

 

 

Don't cut all the way through so you don't mess up your leather binding.

 

 

Put some weight on it so it sets nice and flat.  

So, next is the side panels and installing the wood floor.

 

Have a great night!

Gary

 

 

 

[pplaut]

This looks to be different than the shape of my 36 Model 48 which is no surprise as the 36 was a one off year. However, I will check my rear glass to see how different it is... or not... 

[dibarlaw]

Gary:

 I know on my 37 the spare tire (bias 6.50 X 16 WW) is a snug fit without any liner or mat under the wooden shelf. I was not aware that there was a trunk mat under the tire. I assumed that it was only on the floor above. Not much left of my original trunk side lining. The pattern is more like a burlap weave.

[pplaut]

I believe burlap weave is correct. I spoke, just recently, with Dave Tacheny about this for the 36.

[Gary W]

Monday October 23, 2017:  Installation of the Radio and Trunk Side Panels

 

Tonight I installed the radio (Just finger tight for now), and the side panels and trunk tool area panel:

 

 

I was working alone and that thing has some weight to it!  You have to lift it with the dial/knobs pretty much straight up, then lift the back to turn it into the dash opening.

At the first attempt, I realized the support bracket needed a little more bend to it so it lines up.

So, all back out, then in,  took three tries to get it to align properly.

 

 

Here it is being supported by the rear support iron that shares a bolt with the rear hood hold down.

 

 

The radio finish plate and the mounting nuts.

 

 

With the tone knobs and the plastic knobs the dash looks complete now.

 

 

It's a great look.  

I only finger tightened everything because I think I'll be removing it when it comes time to install the hood and get it aligned.  

Plus, I really think I need a longer rear hood hold down bolt to support the radio.  The bolt I removed from the rear of the hood just barely threaded without a radio.

 

 

REAR TRUNK SIDE PANELS:

 

 

From LeBaron Bonney:  I did a couple dry runs first.  

 

 

Using my chalk I measured all the cutouts, the edges, the deep crevices....

 

 

Using the headliner adhesive, I carefully cut slits and tucked the edges in to my chalk lines.

 

 

Again, headliner adhesive over the wheel well.

 

 

I used the same roller from the Dynamat to roll it out smooth to the wheel well, then more adhesive to roll it up the walls......

 

 

Side panels in, and the kit came with a thick fabric to line the "tool area" behind the spare tire.

 

 

Have a great day!

Gary

 

 

[avgwarhawk]

Nice work Gary.   

[Spinneyhill]

For the window, I wonder if that channel is the right stuff? Might they have used a deeper one? Or a channel without a bead and a separate flat furry wiper with the silver bead, as was used along the side of door garnish mouldings?

[PlymouthPE]

The dash looks amazing - great camera work.

The finish line is in site!!!

[Brian_Heil]

Any thought to covering the front halves of the rear tire wells with the same sound deadener to reduce tire/road noise or does the rear seat do that for 'free'?

 

Great work as always

 

I change the oil in the wife's car in the driveway and feel pretty good then I see you install an entire interior in the same amount of time.

Edited October 25, 2017 by Brian_Heil (see edit history)

[pplaut]

We sprayed the interior with ceramic sound deadener. Including the underside and inside of the trunk, wheel wells, etc. 

I plan on putting a glue down deadener on this and then cover the interior of the trunk with the burlap. I just need to make sure whatever mat we put down is dark colored so, writing an such does not show through the burlap fabric.

 

[Gary W]

Wednesday, October 25th  and  Thursday, October 26th 2017:  Fabricate new Trunk Wood and Finish Trunk interior kit installation

 

I started Wednesday evening by trying to restore my original trunk wood parts.  My goal was to sand them down, clean them up and re-use them.  These wood parts still had that same horrible mice urine smell that was throughout the car, but it was still so pungent in the wood.  So I figured I'd bleach them out and done........ Not quite........

 

 

 

Here'a my original trunk shelf that sits above the spare tire.  You can clearly see the delamination and the mold from years of rear window leaks and mice.

The wood actually smells!  That same horrible smell that overwhelmed the interior of the car when I bought it.

 

 

My thought:  Peel off the delaminated wood and get down to nicer wood.  I figured I could sand out the next layer and the trunk shelf would be one layer thinner.

 

 

This is the part closest to the back seat.  You can see when I removed the top ply, there was still water damage and mold under there.

 

 

So, I got out my belt sander and went to town.  I sanded it clean and smooth.  Then I washed it down with bleach.  I gave it an hour to dry.

IT STILL SMELLED TERRIBLE!    So.......

 

 

Trace it out

 

 

Cut it out

 

 

Sand it out

 

 

And by 6:30 I had a duplicate set for the trunk.  I used the originals as templates to drill all the holes for the mounting screws.

I did not cut out all the large holes.  I don't really see the need for having them.

 

 

I painted the wood using a black paint I used on the front door of the house.  

 

 

And let them dry completely Wednesday night.  

 

 

Tonight I laid them out to attach the wood block that seems to hold the spare tire from moving forward??

Then when I went to install the wood, the spare must be larger than the original because that wood block prevented the wood from seating.

So I eliminated it.

 

 

I wire wheeled and painted all the mounting hardware that came out of the car.

 

 

I found it a lot easier to install the forward screws from inside the car.

I also found that I could not get the rear piece of wood in the car with the spare tire in there.  When I removed the spare, it gave me just enough room to wiggle the board in position.

 

 

Flashback to Monday night, this is how far I got with the trunk kit.

 

 

Now the wood shelf is installed and I put the mat over it.  But I still have two more pieces of fabric that has to go in.

There are no instructions at all, so this is what's left:

 

 

Two smaller pieces on the left side.  The large piece on the right, I used like a "drape" to cover the spare tire??

I don't know, is that what that is used for???

 

 

So I draped that piece over the spare...

 

 

The colors are all exactly the same shade / color.  The photo makes the mat look different, but it is not.

Anyone know what the few pieces of fabric are for, please chime in.

 

 

Thanks!

Gary

 

 

 

 

[dibarlaw]

Gary:

 There are remnants of the burlap fabric still draped from the frame of the panel in back of the rear seat on my 37. (The current working space you now have). The car is stored 3 blocks away and I will try to get a photo tomorrow.

Larry

Edited October 27, 2017 by dibarlaw (see edit history)

[MCHinson]

Gary, 

 

I am not sure the purpose of the two holes in the one board. The single hole in the other board is very helpful. It allows you to check the air pressure and/or add air in the spare tire without having to remove the spare tire from the trunk.

[dibarlaw]

Sorry Gary, but I thought that there was some material left on the back of my rear frame. Just the burlap like side covering the wheel wells and sides. I took my camera but the 2 batteries must have fallen out when I replaced my SD card. Had a nice run with the Huskie on a lovely fall day anyway!

[DonMicheletti]

It is interesting to see the incredible defference between this car and my '38 Special coupe's trunk. No fancy stuff in the '38 trunk. No carpet and the sides and back are just lined with very a heavy paper. And, yes, the hole on the most rearward board is for access to the spare tire valve.

[neil morse]

Sorry, but I couldn't resist jumping in here with a little "before and after" moment.  I only have one question?  Where's that great fan?  I hope it's getting the full "Gary W" treatment! 

 

 

[Gary W]

Friday October 27, 2017:  Update at the paint shop...  Front Fenders

 

 

Flashback to January.  The paint was cracked all around the fenders.  

 

 

After blasting and delivery to the paint shop.  The alligator started down here in the old bondo.  (Or whatever that stuff is in there)

 

 

All the old filler is ground out.  Here you can see some metal pitting around where the fender lamp attaches.  

I guess the rubber tends to hold some moisture under there.  (Same for where the bumper irons exit out through the fender as well)

 

 

Here is a close up of the pitting around the bumper support irons.

 

 

And look how thick the old bondo is!  There is a metal patch in there, or possibly a fender lamp was attached??

 

 

Using the hammer and dolly, Bob reshaped the metal to the original contours.

 

 

Carefully placed taps bring the metal right back to shape.  This way we don't need to use so much filler.

 

 

Filler applied and started sanding.  

 

 

Here you can see the damage to the metal around the wheel opening.

 

 

And after grinding, filling and sanding.

 

 

Sanded smooth and all the pits filled in.

 

 

Self-etching primer applied and ready for the build up primer.   Other fender up front getting the same treatment.

[37 Buick Special]

This dude is one master restorer. Super Gary!!!

Dave

[Gary W]

Sunday October 29, 2017:  Some odds and ends

 

 

Installed the hand accelerator pull knob.  It was hopelessly rusted together, so I had to cut it just after the metal sleeve inside, then restored all the parts that show.

I don't think I'm going to use it as originally intended.  I'm thinking I may use it as a separate light switch to turn the Trippe lights on.

But it looks nice back into its spot anyway!

 

 

 

Windshield divider installed.  I   s l o w l y   tightened the screws to allow the rubber to seat fully without bending anything.

 

 

Installation of the kick panels:

 

Very carefully marked all the holes while in the car and the edge of this panel aligned with the door opening nice and straight.  

I started by peeling off the windlace.  Then set this piece just where you want it to line up.  Mark the holes in the car with a punch.

Pull this piece back out and I used a leather punch to punch nice clean holes for mounting.

 

 

This way you don't have ragged edges.  Put this aside and time to finalize the fit of the windlace.

 

Using headliner adhesive, I gave a little "tug" downward to be sure it was seating nice and tight.  Then, using the same punch I made a hole down the line.

I didn't want the screws to "bunch up" the fabric when installing the panel.

 

 

 

Bottom of the windlace.  First I cut it about an inch long.

 

 

Then, making a much more precise mark, .........

 

 

I peeled back the outer fabric casing to expose the inner rubber.

 

 

Here you can see the final cut brings the rubber nice and flush to the floor of the car.

Then I rolled the fabric over the cut and the excess lays nice and flat so I can glue it down, set it under the sill plate..

So it stays nice and straight and won't pull off.

 

 

Finish marking and punching all the holes, giving the lace a little pull towards the front so when the panel drops in it all tightens up nice.

 

 

I think I'm going to find more decorative screws with the nice decorative washers, but these will keep it happy for now.

I know the upper end should cover the dash screw, but the dash was bent away from the car up there and when I tried to install it over that screw, the panel began to crease.

Plus, the dash keeps the panel in nice and tight, so I did it this way.

 

 

Have a great night!

Gary

 

 

 

Installing the rear roll-up windows tomorrow!

 

[kgreen]

Screw Cap Covers ?

or decorative washer?

[KongaMan]

If you use a flanged finish washer rather than a regular finish washer, it's not as likely to cut into the surface of the panel when tightened.

 

[Bloo]

FWIW I think Fisher Body was using something more like this:

[kgreen]

Not that Gary needs our advice, but now I know something more.

[Gary W]

Keep ALL THE ADVICE COMING!!!   Keeps me on track!

Appreciate all the input I've gotten here.

 

G

[dibarlaw]

14 hours ago, Gary W said:

 

Sunday October 29, 2017:  Some odds and ends

 

 

Installed the hand accelerator pull knob.  It was hopelessly rusted together, so I had to cut it just after the metal sleeve inside, then restored all the parts that show.

I don't think I'm going to use it as originally intended.  I'm thinking I may use it as a separate light switch to turn the Trippe lights on.

But it looks nice back into its spot anyway!

 

Gary:

 If you are using a remote/hidden starter switch that that would be fine. But if you are planning on using the original vacuum accelerator starter system the hand throttle is important. Many a time if you stall on a hill and the parking brake will not hold and you start drifting back..... Foot on the brake, pull out the throttle which will engage the starter. Back in business. A real life saver... Ask me how I  know!

Larry

[Mark Shaw]

5 hours ago, dibarlaw said:

Gary:

 If you are using a remote/hidden starter switch that that would be fine. But if you are planning on using the original vacuum accelerator starter system the hand throttle is important. Many a time if you stall on a hill and the parking brake will not hold and you start drifting back..... Foot on the brake, pull out the throttle which will engage the starter. Back in business. A real life saver... Ask me how I  know!

Larry

 

It also helps to warm up that cold blooded straight 8 engine with a little more hand throttle before trying to let out the clutch to back out....

Edited October 30, 2017 by Mark Shaw (see edit history)

[DonMicheletti]

Also, you loose your 1930's "cruise control"

[Gary W]

Monday October 30, 2017:  Installation of the rear roll-up windows

 

First, you've convinced me to set up the hand throttle as original.  I'll run to the local music store and get a nice piano wire that replicates the diameter of the original and hook it up.  

 

Tonight I  got the rear roll-up windows in.  Little stressful by yourself while juggling the channels and the glass over that new paint, but in the end it went pretty nice.  I bent and cut the lower outer window sweeps also, just not installed yet.  Have to think about it more!

 

Rear Window installation:

 

 

First thing I did was mark every mounting hole for the felt window channel to screw into.  I covered each hole with blue tape, then punched the hole through the tape.

It made it much easier to find the holes and helped mark them later.

 

 

I got the window channel kit from Steele.  MEASURE your channels first!  I had no idea that the kit had two longer and two shorter.  I just assumed they were all the same size and had to be custom cut to fit.

The Model 48 uses longer channels for the rear windows.  I lucked out and happen to grab the correct one to start, and only noticed the length difference with the next channel.

Here I'm carefully bending the glass channel around the perimeter of the glass, following all the contours of the glass and cutting it so it bottoms out on the rain drip tray down there.

 

 

Next, I test fit the channel in the body opening.  Using the tape as a guide, I placed a small silver dot on the channel where every mounting hole is located.

You have to be sure you keep pressure on the channel so it doesn't move around when measuring.

 

 

Using a 9/64 drill bit, I drilled through where my silver marks are.

 

 

I used a punch to be sure the holes are clear and removed any burs left behind by the drill.

 

 

Back into the car, I started up in the forward most top corner and using a punch got the channel hole and the mounting holes lined up.

 

 

I used #8 X 5/8" stainless pan head screws.  These are fully threaded and have a flat head profile that buries itself in the felt.

 

 

Keep the corner nice and tight and flush to the opening, insert your first screw.  

 

 

As you move back, use the punch to align then drive the screws in being sure there is no buckling or distortion as you go.

 

 

 

I'm sorry I don't have any photos of the angle I had to get the window seated because my hands were full.  But this is what I did:

Lower the window regulator to the bottom

From inside the car,  hold the glass at an inward tilt while pushing the back edge deep into the felt channel under the belt line.

So your glass is tipped inward slightly and angled so the front edge is up, the rear edge is down to the regulator.

Then, by slowly raising the back edge, the front edge will slip into the felt and the glass drops on top of the regulator bar.

 

 

 

By pulling the regulator bar to you, and allowing the window to drop it naturally sets atop the bar.

Then, by using a punch you have to get the mounting holes aligned

Here, I had to slide the regulator bar forward to get things lined up.

 

 

That's what you're shooting for.  The holes and the regulator bar perfectly aligned.

 

 

Remember the game "Operation"?  Be sure your screwdriver is magnetic, and have a magnet on hand to chase the screws out of the body if you drop one. (...or two...)

I was waiting for the red nose to light up and hear that horrible "buzz"!

 

 

So, the glass is in, the channels look really nice.  The windows move easily and close with a positive "thump" into the felt.

 

 

One more project off the list!

 

 

 

Have a great night out there!

Gary

 

 

 

[Bloo]

What was the final answer about the shape of the glass and channel?

[Gary W]

I had to follow the glass outline not the body opening.  

 

By following the the glass, the channel seats in the car opening nice and flush, and the window is sealed all around nice and tight.

I DID try to follow the body contour and that prevented the glass from seating properly.  When fully closed, the upper rear edge of the glass was exposed and I had to use about 3/8" of shim stock behind the channel to install it.

Then the glass basically bottomed out too early and would not seat correctly.  

 

So,  I'll live with the glass channel disappearing for that blind inch in the corner back there.  No other way to get it to set properly.

 

Have a great day!

Gary

[Gary W]

Tuesday October 31, 2017:  Fender Lamp Restoration

 

Tonight after work I sat at the kitchen table and built the fender lamps, leaving my project every once in a while to hand out candy to the trick-or-treaters ringing the bell.  This is one of those areas where the parts are out for chrome, paint and wiring.  You can't really do anything until all the elements come together.  I removed the fender lamps in early January.  The shells were blasted, the trim re-chromed and the wiring came with the new harness.  I wire wheeled all the internals and painted all the fasteners.  Bob painted the shells just last week so now I can bring all the parts together.  So here goes:

 

 

January 2017:  Removing the fender lamps.  The paint was chipped,  the chrome was pitted, the lens was broken, the wiring was completely dry rotted and the lamp did not illuminate.

 

 

Here's the wiring to the socket.  I still can't figure why it didn't light up.

 

 

The guts of the sockets removed and ready to be cleaned up.

 

 

All the internal fasteners that keep it all together.

 

 

After wire wheeling the fasteners.  There were some brass screws in there.  One set holds the upper shell, the other holds the clip on the back that secures the upper shell.

All these fasteners and internal parts got an acetone bath after the wire wheel, then were painted with Rust Oleum "paint and primer" in one can.

 

 

The socket guts after cleaning and bathing.

 

 

I made four new studs to mount the lamps to the fenders.  

A 5/16-18 Carriage Bolt and a 12-24 stainless screw became the new mounting studs.

 

 

Measure, cut and dress the end with a file.

 

 

Here's the progression from the original stripped stud to the replacement.

 

 

Back on Father's Day I learned how to paint the grooves and wipe them clean.

Here I'm treating the chrome molding for the fender lamps.

 

 

And finally, the shells were blasted, sanded, self-etch primed, primed, sanded and painted to match the car.

 

 

And finally, tonight I have all the elements laid out for the build.

 

 

I started by wiring the sockets with the new wires.  Up top is the sequence, down below how it all looks together.

I slip the shrink wrap before soldering.

 

 

Solder the socket wire to the connector in the base.

 

 

Heat your shrink wrap to insulate it.

 

 

Run the guts through the molding and attach (loosely for now) the two forward screws and the rear clip (in the photo on the table down there) with one screw.

 

 

I found it so much easier to attach the lens at this point while the front screws that hold the molding were still a little loose.

The glass engages the lower lip so much easier when the molding can scoot around a little.

 

 

Here is the socket / lens assembly now in position and wired.

 

 

To the bottom, attach your new wire and the two new studs

 

 

Slide the top cover to the rear, engaging that rear hold down clip and insert the final screw through the top to secure the upper shell to the boss in the molding.

 

 

Using a 9V battery, I tested them out and they look great!

 

 

 

 I'm hoping to get the front fenders from the paint shop this Saturday so I need to measure and cut the fender welt and have all those fender bolts ready to go!

 

Have a great night out there

Gary

 

 

 

[Bloo]

They look amazing, just like everything else in this thread.

 

Have you decided what to put on the interior floor yet? What kind of carpet and or mats did you get?

[pplaut]

I saw a post somewhere that you learned how to paint the grooves in the chrome. I am still struggling with this...

Any insights you can share?

P.

[Gary W]

Wednesday November 1, 2017:  Carpets

 

I really could use some advice / photos/ "order-of-operations" here before I start cutting.....

 

 

 

****  PPLAUT:  I sent you a PM regarding POST #371...Painting the recesses ****

Just touch the arrow on the upper right will take you to the specific post..

 

 

 

Carpets:

 

Hi Bloo!

 I ordered a full interior kit from LeBaron Bonney and the Carpets came with it.  

BUT I NEED SOME EXPERT ADVICE HERE.....  

If anyone has installed the front carpet PLEASE give me a some tips ..

 

 

 

 

Here's my questions...

 

 

Here is the carpets for the car.  The tones all match the Brown Bedford Cord and the Brown headliner.

(They've been folded in a box for a few months so it appears there is a white line down the center. It's not there, just a camera thing)

 

 

Let's focus on the front carpet today.  I'd like to make all the cuts to get it ready to drop in when the interior kit is finished.

 

 

When you flip it over, the underside came marked with all the various cut outs that will allow it to slide into position.

 

 

And the pedals, switches, gear shift it has to fit over.

 

 

I think I have the labels correct for the cutouts.  

Questions:  How do I start this???  What cut do I make first to start the installation without ruining the carpet?

 

 

1.  Is the first cut through the binding up top to get the steering column in?  (I hate cutting through the binding but I don't see any other way)

2.  Do you disconnect your emergency brake cable at the handle and then thread it through the carpet, or do you make a slit up there (or off to the side?) as well so the carpet can be easily removed?

3.  I'm assuming you install the accelerator pedal last?  Once the carpet is down and smooth then punch those holes and run the screws in / throttle linkage through?

4.  Does the gearshift boot sit on top of the carpet after its down?

5. I have rubber grommets in the floor of the car that the emergency brake cable, the high/low beam switch come through.  Are there any finish grommets around those when they go through the carpet?  Or do they just poke through an unfinished hole?

6. Once cut, how to you finish the carpet so it doesn't fray or unravel.  Do I have to have a new leather binding sewn over my cuts??

 

How do you get all these holes perfectly aligned so there is no buckling of the carpet....

 

Any suggestions or interior photos before I start cutting this would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

 

Gary

 

Edited November 1, 2017 by Gary W (see edit history)

[1967 - 1997 Riviera]

Regarding your fourth question concerning the rubber gearshift boot, I am no expert, but all the gearshift boots I've encountered sat on top of the carpeting.

 

Also, I have a hunch that you are going to have to remove the gearshift lever before placing the carpet down and then re-attach it afterwards.